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Old 11-14-2019, 09:37 PM   #1
MrRobalo
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Batteries ?

Newbie here I have a quite an extensive background in the marine industry and built and captained boats all my life.
The wife and I just bought a 2018 Bullet 220RBI used but almost new . We have had it for 2 weeks at our community storage lot as havenít got a SUV yet to pull it. I have a few questions about Batteries. I replaced a small battery with 2 Group 27 deep bcycle marine batteries with them chained down n locked.. had to remove there stops on each end and trim handles on boxs to make them fit perfectly. Now the ??? Does the trailer have a battery charger built in to keep the batteries charged up? Second question is with the 7 prong plug .
I saw the schematic and it shows there being a wire going to the battery from truck . What they say is it will charge it with The tow vehicles alternator but some say it only maintains them. So with all that I wonder if I should put in a automatic duel battery charger that will work while we are plugged in shore power. .
Another question is there someplace on the patio side that has backing plate to hang the TV on so we can enjoy it outside on game day?
Where /what is the best way to put your sewer hoses, as the Collar collar are too big Bo go inside the back bumper.
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Old 11-14-2019, 10:02 PM   #2
Logan X
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There is an onboard charger/converter in your trailer that charges your batteries while you are plugged into shore power and it converts the 120v shore power to 12v DC to operate the 12v system while you are plugged into shore power. It is usually located very close to the power distribution panel.

In my experience, the onboard charger does a great job charging the batteries and you don’t need an additional charger.

The 7 pin connector will charge the batteries while you are towing, it doesn’t charge very quickly though.

Congratulations on your new trailer!
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Old 11-14-2019, 10:15 PM   #3
Ken / Claudia
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You need to know that unless you have the trailer plugged into shore power at the storage unit. The batteries will be dead in a fews weeks. Even if you turn off the red handled power switch. The trailers always have drains on the batteries unless removed or you add a real disconnect switch.
So unless you have shore power, it is best to disconnect or remove the batteries before they are ruined.
The sewer hose storage I use is a plastic tub in a outer storage area. I also keep a large plastic bag filled with rubber gloves in it. I do keep a cheap sewer hose it the bumper as backup.
I said the first part since many come on here after getting their RVs out of storage and find the batteries are dead. Unlike any marine/boat battery on/off switches that do turn off all power, RVs are different in that regard.
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Old 11-14-2019, 11:29 PM   #4
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When you get your tow vehicle, check to make sure it will charge the trailer batteries. I had to install a relay in order to get my truck to charged the trailer.
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Old 11-15-2019, 03:56 AM   #5
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The battery charging questions have pretty much been answered. I would just add that many new(r) trucks that come with factory hitches and 7 way plugs will often not have the fuse installed but will supply the fuse in a bag in the glovebox. Most modern tow vehicles also have a relay that will only supply power if the engine is running.

When shopping for for an SUV be cognizant of the trailer's "true weights" and not the "empty weight" advertised.
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Old 11-15-2019, 04:25 AM   #6
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My suggestion is to get with someone who is an RVer and take him up to your trailer. You need someone who can show you some of the tricks of the trade.


I am sure you have a lot more questions.
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Old 11-15-2019, 04:41 AM   #7
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All good suggestions, particularly Roscommon's. When shopping for a tow vehicle make sure you take into account the 27 foot length and the 6500 pound gross weight of the RV. You won't be towing this with some Chevvy Traverse. It will take a full sized SUV if you go in that direction.
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
All good suggestions, particularly Roscommon's. When shopping for a tow vehicle make sure you take into account the 27 foot length and the 6500 pound gross weight of the RV. You won't be towing this with some Chevvy Traverse. It will take a full sized SUV if you go in that direction.
To add a comment: That's a "full sized SUV" in the Tahoe/Expedition line, not a "full size SUV as described by sales marketing". There is a lot of "ours will do more than theirs will do" from every manufacturer. Expecting a Ford Explorer or a Chevy Traverse to "adequately tow a 27' box that's 11' tall" is significantly different than the "brochure boasts of towing 6500 pounds"....

The "physical dynamics of towing a "huge sail" (travel trailer) behind a small vehicle are significantly different than towing a "heavy utility trailer" behind that same small vehicle. Tow vehicle size, wheelbase, weight, distance from the rear axle to the receiver, etc all make a significant difference in the vehicle's ability to "control and prevent sway" of such an extremely large "sail" created by the sidewall of a tall, long travel trailer.
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:26 AM   #9
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Now that the electrical questions appear to be answered let's move to tow vehicle.
Quite honestly unless you have to have a third row seating a truck with a tonneau cover or bed cap will be much better suited/designed to tow a RV.
Pay NO attention to dry weights or max tow weights of the vehicle. Use GVWR of trailer for calculations & the numbers from the drivers door jamb of the particular vehicle. This will prevent a costly mistake that a lot of us have made in the past.
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