RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Fleet | Keystone RV Models > Travel Trailers
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 03-22-2019, 02:36 PM   #1
AmandaDavenport
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Seattle
Posts: 23
Soooo many issues and questions 🤦🏼*♀️

It seems like itís one issues after another with this TT.

The water heater is leaking from the panel thatís on the outside of the trailer. Where you can push the lever and see if there is water coming out. Itís leaking big drops constantly. Sorry I donít know what that is called.

The toilet is having one issue after another. The vacuum valve sprays water so we wasnít able to use the flush for the toilet so we was manually dumping water to rinse, I just got the valve in today and going to change it, had to change the flush seal the other day, now the flush ball is cracked and needs replacing, I have called EVERY rv parts store in my are upto 100 miles and they all say they donít have it, I canít find it online, when I Google it I just get the seal options. 🤦🏼*♀️.

The lights on the slide out donít work.

I know there is more I canít remember off the top of my head.

Anyone have any advice?

Iím looking for a new toilet, but we ainít no small people so it has to be something that isnít too small. I was looking at the Dometic 320, we have a Dometic 310 now, but Iím open to other options, must be a standard height as I have a lot of medical issues and getting up and down on a lowboy will not work.
__________________

AmandaDavenport is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 03:04 PM   #2
wiredgeorge
Senior Member
 
wiredgeorge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 2,658
There is no lever on the outside of your water heater that I know of. Can you take a pic and post? The Dometic toilets have been known to have issues in several areas including the valve at the bottom/rear. Buy a new one and a spare. If the toilet sat during the winter and that valve had water, I believe they are designed to break instead of anything else. Can't help you with a flush ball as I have never seen nor heard of one cracking. Not sure I would mess with trying to change it. The Dometic 320 is more elongated than the 310 and fits a human better in many cases. I bought ours from pplmotorhomes.com parts department and had it in one day (I live about 4-5 hours from Houston). What lights on the slide are you referring to? Not knowing what type trailer or if they are 110V or 12V, can't offer much advice; we have both in our slide. Outside the Dometic brand of toilet there are Thetford and a couple lesser brands; some more expensive and perhaps higher quality. We got rid our Thetford Aquamagic as sitting on it didn't feel like magic.
__________________

__________________
wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
wiredgeorge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 03:23 PM   #3
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 10,546
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmandaDavenport View Post
It seems like it’s one issues after another with this TT.

The water heater is leaking from the panel that’s on the outside of the trailer. Where you can push the lever and see if there is water coming out. It’s leaking big drops constantly. Sorry I don’t know what that is called.

The toilet is having one issue after another. The vacuum valve sprays water so we wasn’t able to use the flush for the toilet so we was manually dumping water to rinse, I just got the valve in today and going to change it, had to change the flush seal the other day, now the flush ball is cracked and needs replacing, I have called EVERY rv parts store in my are upto 100 miles and they all say they don’t have it, I can’t find it online, when I Google it I just get the seal options. ����*♀️.

The lights on the slide out don’t work.

I know there is more I can’t remember off the top of my head.

Anyone have any advice?

I’m looking for a new toilet, but we ain’t no small people so it has to be something that isn’t too small. I was looking at the Dometic 320, we have a Dometic 310 now, but I’m open to other options, must be a standard height as I have a lot of medical issues and getting up and down on a lowboy will not work.

How old is this trailer? How long have you owned it? How do you use it? It's hard to tell if it has just sat and things deteriorated, you've used it so much things are breaking/wearing out, you just got it and are trying to figure it out or left it sitting over winter and didn't winterize properly????

Edit: I'm assuming the "lever" on the hwh you are referring to is the pressure valve? It could be faulty. You may have too much pressure or.....?
__________________
Danny & Susan wife of 53 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 03:39 PM   #4
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 19,619
No idea on how long you've had the trailer or how you're using it, but here's some suggestions:

FIRST: Post the model, year, how you're using the trailer

Without knowing the age of the trailer, I can't suggest what is a warranty item, what you need to fix and what you can just ignore because it's not worth the effort to fix it (unless you have time and extra money). That said:

As for the pressure relief valve on the water heater, when you push the lever, it's supposed to leak water. Be careful, it's going to be hot enough to burn you. If it's leaking, it's probably because you've lost the "air gap" in the water tank. When there's no air, the tank contents can't expand, so they leak out of the pressure relief valve. The owner's manual has a specific method to re-establish the air gap.

The toilet "flush ball" is not a field replaceable item. The foot pedal is, the water valve is, the ball seal is, but not the flush ball. I find it difficult to imagine how the flush ball cracked unless it was frozen or intentionally damaged from trying to hit it with something ???? Anyway, you can't/won't find a replacement flush ball because it's not intended to be replaced.

Lights in the slide? That could be anything from a blown fuse, loose connector or a bad light fixture/switch/wiring. You'll just have to do some checking/inspecting to see what you can find. If it's 120 VAC, be careful, you can get hurt.

Much of what you're reporting as problems is covered by a 2 year manufacturer's warranty (water heater and toilet). If the trailer is older than that or if it's second hand to you, did you get the owner's manuals for the items that are installed in your trailer? There are specific manuals for each piece of equipment. Almost all of them are located online at the manufacturer's site. You can google the name, model number and the owner's manual, user's manual will come up for download. That will give you a ready source of information about the items in your trailer.

Tell us about your trailer, it's foolish (and a waste of time) for us to suggest ways to fix it if it's in warranty and you've no intention of doing self repairs. Alternatively, it's a waste of time suggesting that you take it in for warranty work if it's a 10 year old trailer.... Help us help you.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 03:43 PM   #5
AmandaDavenport
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Seattle
Posts: 23
Thank you guys for the responses

It’s a 2010 Keystone Hideout 27sle

We bought it about 2 months ago, we are doing full time for 6 months so all these little quarks are driving me crazy

The person we bought it from did NOT winterize it this past winter and I do not know about the other years

It is the pressure valve I’m referring too for the water heater thing. It just started yesterday I believe

Thank you for the link for the toilet. I just told my husband I am going to just buy a new one, I’m done DIYing it with the toilet. I want to take the tub out and put just a shower in and take out the vanity and just have a floating sink. But don’t know how hard that is going to be. The tub you have to step in and it is basically as high as the toilet. I’m not able to do it alone so I have to depend on my husband to help me in and out, if I renovate it to just a shower at floor level I will be better for me.

The lights on the slide out I’m not sure if they are 120 or 12V, they are like dome lights and standard light fixtures.

Thank have no clue how to upload a picture into this reply to show them.
AmandaDavenport is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 04:18 PM   #6
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 10,546
About 9 years old. Owned 2 months with lots of issues. Not winterized last year and unknown history before that. For mtce. that is important.

I would replace the toilet as you said. Get the 310 or 320, whichever you prefer. Not knowing how you set the trailer up initially, turn off the water to the hwh, pull the plug and drain it (with the pressure lever open). When empty replace the drain plug and close the pressure valve. Turn on the water and let the tank fill. When filled (water quits running) open a faucet on hot and wait until water flows without sputtering and blowing. Hopefully the valve will not be leaking. If it is I would replace it and then see what happens.

I understand the reasons for replacing the tub and agree. I have never done that so can't guide you other than to mention that you need to be aware of drain/water inlet locations as you plan it - and realize that "remodeling" an RV bears no resemblance to working on a regular house. I've done several S&B bathrooms but not an RV.
__________________
Danny & Susan wife of 53 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 04:40 PM   #7
Terry W.
Senior Member
 
Terry W.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Pickens, SC
Posts: 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
About 9 years old. Owned 2 months with lots of issues. Not winterized last year and unknown history before that. For mtce. that is important.

I would replace the toilet as you said. Get the 310 or 320, whichever you prefer. Not knowing how you set the trailer up initially, turn off the water to the hwh, pull the plug and drain it (with the pressure lever open). When empty replace the drain plug and close the pressure valve. Turn on the water and let the tank fill. When filled (water quits running) open a faucet on hot and wait until water flows without sputtering and blowing. Hopefully the valve will not be leaking. If it is I would replace it and then see what happens.

I understand the reasons for replacing the tub and agree. I have never done that so can't guide you other than to mention that you need to be aware of drain/water inlet locations as you plan it - and realize that "remodeling" an RV bears no resemblance to working on a regular house. I've done several S&B bathrooms but not an RV.
I think they are talking about the T&P valve on the water heater. Temperature & Pressure release valve
__________________
https://www.keystonerv.org/forums/pic...pictureid=1416 Terry & Kathy
2012 Avalanche 330RE
2006 F250 Super Crew Chipped, K&N
2-11 Pound 4 Legged Furry Childern
Pickens, SC
Terry W. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 04:42 PM   #8
AmandaDavenport
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Seattle
Posts: 23
I’m not sure how to disconnect the hot water heater honestly, we just hooked city water hose up to the trailer and it filled up? I would assume I would have to disconnect that and drain it?. I will call around tomorrow for a drain plug and get that taken care of.

This is all new to me I always research hours and hours, but this was a whim and the day we got it I had surgery so was out of it for a few weeks while my husband tried to take care of it. But that didnt do anything to better things.

I have to research and research about the remodel for the bathroom, I have seen some Google images of people doing it, so I know it’s possible, but we will see. Now I can do a house remodel with no questions outside of electrical, this is a whole new world to me.
AmandaDavenport is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 04:44 PM   #9
AmandaDavenport
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Seattle
Posts: 23
I am not sure how to upload a picture in this thread to show it. It’s the one on the outside of the TT where the heat flame is?
AmandaDavenport is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 04:45 PM   #10
AmandaDavenport
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Seattle
Posts: 23
I think I figured how to load a picture?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2FC1F78F-D40D-48D1-BDDD-3CA225133023.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	122.7 KB
ID:	21009  
AmandaDavenport is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 05:25 PM   #11
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 10,546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry W. View Post
I think they are talking about the T&P valve on the water heater. Temperature & Pressure release valve

Yes, that is what I referred to...the pressure valve.
__________________
Danny & Susan wife of 53 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 05:31 PM   #12
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 10,546
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmandaDavenport View Post
Iím not sure how to disconnect the hot water heater honestly, we just hooked city water hose up to the trailer and it filled up? I would assume I would have to disconnect that and drain it?. I will call around tomorrow for a drain plug and get that taken care of.

This is all new to me I always research hours and hours, but this was a whim and the day we got it I had surgery so was out of it for a few weeks while my husband tried to take care of it. But that didnt do anything to better things.

I have to research and research about the remodel for the bathroom, I have seen some Google images of people doing it, so I know itís possible, but we will see. Now I can do a house remodel with no questions outside of electrical, this is a whole new world to me.

Your pic is of the pressure valve. You don't need to go find a drain valve; it's in the water heater. You can remove it, drain the tank, then replace. Mine is an Atwood and uses a polymer plug. Others may have brass or some other metallic plug. It should be at the bottom with a hex? head so you can unscrew it and drain it. Just turn off the water and release the pressure lever. If you have had the hot water heater on be very careful because the pressure relief valve will release hot water.
__________________
Danny & Susan wife of 53 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2019, 05:53 PM   #13
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 19,619
There is an easy way to re-establish the air gap. First turn off water to the trailer and turn off the water heater. Then turn on a faucet inside. It will only drip for a moment and pressure will be relieved. Leave that faucet open and go outside, open the pressure relief valve lever. When it stops dripping, let the lever snap shut. Go inside and turn off the faucet, turn on the water to the trailer and then turn on the water heater. Open the faucet and when it stops "sputtering" you should have re-established the air gap.

Alternatively, you can remove the anode rod/remove the plastic cap and drain the water heater, however I'd try the above method first.

It should stop the dripping. If it doesn't then you'll need to remove/replace the pressure relief valve. Take it out, and take it to any hardware store. They can "match it up" with a replacement. If you order one from an RV parts store, expect to pay about double the hardware store price.
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2019, 08:37 AM   #14
beermanjoe
Member
 
beermanjoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Sligo,Pa
Posts: 48
Make sure you have plenty of room behind the toilet to upgrade. I upgraded my Dometic 300 to a 310. The new one almost touches the wall.
beermanjoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2019, 10:00 AM   #15
shermris
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Esko
Posts: 83
That is the water heater relief valve. If this unit was stored in freezing weather without being winterized there could be more problems with your water system. Relief valves are inexpensive and easy to change it that is your only problem. If your unit is not covered by warranty and you are not able to do the trouble shooting and repairs yourself I would recommend you try to find someone willing and able to do the work. Dealer repair shops are quite expensive but their work is typically warranted for a period of time, there are experienced people who do this type of work at their homes or in a private shop. My concern would be the water system, (water lines, faucets, fittings, tanks & pumps can all be damaged by freezing). In the future winterizing takes an hour or less and will cost about $10 if you do it yourself, if you can't do it yourself pay to have it done.
__________________

shermris is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RVģ is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×