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Old 10-02-2018, 10:40 AM   #1
Miles65
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OK, now I'm going to need to put in a driveway to my RV shelter.

OK, guys and gals, now I'm going to need to put in a driveway back to my RV shelter, or I'll have very limited opportunities to take my RV out, because of the mud, after it rains, that keeps me from backing up, to hook up my rig. I'm thinking I'll go with gravel. The run will be about 120' x 10' x 1/3'. I'll get about 15 yards of gravel/decomposed granite for around $500, delivered, ground cloth for about $100, and rent a bobcat for about $250. Total project estimate:around $1000.

Tell me what you know about putting in your own gravel/decomposed granite driveway. Thanks!
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Old 10-02-2018, 02:01 PM   #2
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I think I would use Road crush. it drains well and for the most part will not sag when driven on wet. The other plus is the more you drive on it the more compact it becomes and should stand the test of time.
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Old 10-02-2018, 02:40 PM   #3
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I think I would use Road crush. it drains well and for the most part will not sag when driven on wet. The other plus is the more you drive on it the more compact it becomes and should stand the test of time.
I have no idea what road crush is, nor do I find it on the internet. Please explain exactly what it is. Thanks.
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:08 PM   #4
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I have no idea what road crush is, nor do I find it on the internet. Please explain exactly what it is. Thanks.
It's the material they put down before asphalt. Also known as driveway gravel I believe.
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:28 PM   #5
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It's the material they put down before asphalt. Also known as driveway gravel I believe.
Crushed limestone,, road rock,, ca- 6 a lot of different has just enough fines in it to compact the rock,, it sounds like there are no fines in what you are talking about
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:52 PM   #6
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Crushed limestone,, road rock,, ca- 6 a lot of different has just enough fines in it to compact the rock,, it sounds like there are no fines in what you are talking about
No crushed limestone in this part of BC so you are right. It's basically unwashed crushed gravel hence the crappy roads up here.
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Old 10-02-2018, 05:02 PM   #7
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As a geologist who conducts remedies on old landfills, I would recommend #57 stone. It is a crushed rock, typically granite, that is more coarse than gravel, which is smooth from weathering. It has a nominal size of 3/4" -1" and perfect for making driveways that remain permeable. Our contractors use it almost exclusively for temporary haul roads. Use the bobcat to smooth it out and compact it some and you should have along lasting driveway. Too much larger and you will destroy tires; too much smaller and it will always be washing away or your rig sinking in.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:28 PM   #8
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It kind of depends on what you can get in your area. Around here, Class 5 is very common for a gravel driveway. If able to afford, itís nice to top that with either a recycle mix or limestone.

For the actually making of the driveway, just make sure and scrape away the top layer first with any fine dirt/plant material in it so there is a better base to layer your gravel on.
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:40 AM   #9
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I might add that your drive needs to be 12 feet wide, not 10 feet wide. There is no comfort zone backing 120 feet in a 10 foot drive.
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:00 AM   #10
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If you have a quarry near you check the availability of “pit or quarry fines” yup it is almost a dust which after it gets rained on a few times and compacted gets almost as hard as concrete!
Another advantage to fines over 57 or crush and run is it won’t just keep sinking in the mud and have to keep reapplying and it’s usually cheaper........

Just my opinion after using it and lots of other material for construction lay down areas in Virginia clay/mud
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:57 AM   #11
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I might add that your drive needs to be 12 feet wide, not 10 feet wide. There is no comfort zone backing 120 feet in a 10 foot drive.
I can attest to this. We store our unit at our daughters house. Private drive about 300' long with 2 bends. Must back down as no room to turn around. Rarely do I make it in one shot and I have a camera on the back of the trailer.

Also my BIL's contractor used a product that is ground up asphalt. It was a lot less expensive and the more it's compacted the harder it gets.
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Old 10-03-2018, 05:38 AM   #12
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ground cloth for about $100
Use good geotextile fabric, it will save you on your gravel expense and keep your materials separate, also prevent the rock from sinking away into the mud and having to keep adding more gravel. Preferably you want a base of some more coarse rock followed by some smaller gravel 3/4" to top dress it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WF200-6-...-300/206604907 l
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:35 AM   #13
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I have no idea what road crush is, nor do I find it on the internet. Please explain exactly what it is. Thanks.
You have gotten some good advice from people more qualified than me on what product to use, but to answer your question this is the product I was referring to. It is inexpensive and drains well. It will get ruts over time where you would have to add more product.

"25mm (1") Crushed Gravel is a compaction material also known as 'road crush' which is comprised of sand & rock. It is best used as a base under asphalt, concrete, & paving stones."

Good luck with your driveway project.
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:52 AM   #14
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I've always called it crush and run. https://www.homedepot.com/p/13-16-cu...3517/202521207
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:59 AM   #15
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Spoke to the major gravel supplier in town. She told me to lay down decomposed granite, first, then compact it, then put the coarser granite over that. This goes against what I've read, online, but perhaps some of you have laid down a granite driveway, before, and can join in, here. Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:03 PM   #16
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That would work well, the findings are from asphalt that has been milled off a road,, great stuff to use
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Old 10-04-2018, 05:47 AM   #17
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We have what they call #8 Slag Stone. It worked in a very muddy alley that turned into our property and this is where we park our TT. The slag gets hard like concrete and there is very little mud now.
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:02 AM   #18
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road base for Austin

Miles65 - I PM'd you with my work email address. I can tell you what I did at my place. Austin "dirt" is a tale of two cities due to the Balcones Fault...east of IH35 is highly plastic black clay, and west of the interstate tends to be limestone rock. What you need to do depends on where you live. I have been in commercial construction here since 1984...email me a note and I'll give you my two cents worth of advice for what to do and what material to use.
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:52 AM   #19
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I can attest to this. We store our unit at our daughters house. Private drive about 300' long with 2 bends. Must back down as no room to turn around. Rarely do I make it in one shot and I have a camera on the back of the trailer.

Also my BIL's contractor used a product that is ground up asphalt. It was a lot less expensive and the more it's compacted the harder it gets.


The stuff above really works. I found my neighbor behind my house one day with a big trailer of the ground up asphalt he had picked up for nothing from a highway project and spreading it with a little skid steer with a bucket (he owns a sand/gravel/concrete business). I thought he was just trying to get rid of some "junk" so ragged on him a bit but he told me it was good stuff. Well, he covered the alley and as the ground up asphalt was driven over by traffic it set up and became an asphalt alley drive, literally. Now, years later, it's like it was when he spread it with the exception of a strip where the gas company came in and dug it up trying to work on a gas line.
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Old 10-04-2018, 11:52 AM   #20
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I might add that your drive needs to be 12 feet wide, not 10 feet wide. There is no comfort zone backing 120 feet in a 10 foot drive.
I have to add, here, that an existing three foot wide sidewalk will run alongside the driveway, giving me thirteen feet of width. At the end of the run, where the sidewalk does not exist, it will be twelve feet wide.
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