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Old 10-16-2014, 08:19 PM   #1
BadDogWillie
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Brake adjustment

Can anyone help in recommending information on how to check adjustment on my 2013 Laredo brakes. My brakes are very slow to warm up and react. I have to turn up gain on controller almost all the way up and it takes a lot of driving applying the brakes ( not constant ) before I can feel them grabbing. If this not it the next is to check for leaks on axle.


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Old 10-16-2014, 08:29 PM   #2
chuckster57
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I would START at the brakes. Jack up the tires one at a time, using the junction of the springs and axle as the jack point. Once the tire is off the ground, you can access the star adjuster from the back side of the backing plate. There may be two slots with rubber plugs. Remove the forward one, and using a flat blade screwdriver or a brake "spoon" adjust the shoes so they just drag the drums.

Once the screwdriver/spoon has contacted the adjuster, moving the tool DOWN will tighten the brakes. Once all 4 wheels are done you can take a test drive.

One test we use when we do an axle service is to pull the break-away pin, activating the brakes. Then using a torque wrench, tighten the lugs to 120 ft/lbs. If the wheel still turns we tighten the brakes.

With a good jack and jack stands you can do one side at a time. We use 4 jack stands and lift the entire trailer for ease, but we have done one side at a time with BIG heavy units.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:16 AM   #3
Bluewater
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I thought most all now have automatic adjusters like your car. My 2011 does for sure. I'm not happy with the way they work and it makes manually adjusting very difficult.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:26 AM   #4
chuckster57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluewater View Post
I thought most all now have automatic adjusters like your car. My 2011 does for sure. I'm not happy with the way they work and it makes manually adjusting very difficult.
I haven't seen any auto adjusters installed from the factory yet. I know they are available in the aftermarket.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:36 AM   #5
hankpage
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Bad Dog Willie , By driving a distance and "warming up" your brakes, you are scraping off rust that has built up so that magnets can work properly. Your brakes are electric so the only "leaks" you may find are wiring connections that have come loose.
Even after adjusting brakes (like Chuck described) each time the trailer sits for a while you will have to warm them up again.
You may have self adjusting brakes, BUT you will never back up enough for them to work. (Just like cars that have them) JM2˘, Hank
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