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Old 09-28-2014, 11:26 AM   #1
Jeremym27
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Water Leak in Outdoor Kitchen

You may have seen my previous post regarding a drip I had in my outdoor kitchen where the cold water hose connects to the sink.

Well, I had "fixed" it by replacing the ring inside the connection. Last weekend we could smell a funky smell but couldn't find anything.

Later we opened up the outdoor kitchen and found the source. The leak was back; and mold had grown inside and rotted the insert where the sink and burner slide out.

It is a 2012 Passport 3220BH that was bought new in 2013. According to the dealer it is no longer under warranty.

Frankly, we don't use the water in the outdoor kitchen; so if there were a simple valve to close and prevent this from recurring I would/will.

I went in search of such a valve under the camper; however, there is a protective cover preventing access.

I need a permanent solution to this issue so that I'm not dealing with this issue.

Here are my questions:

1. Is there such a valve to turn off water to the outdoor kitchen?

2. What is the best way to resolve the bad connection? I broke off two of the little ribbed pieces on the black plastic connector, so I'm thinking I may need to replace the connection and/or hose.

3. Any other advice?

We keep the camper at a resort year round; and ultimately, I'd like to have these hoses go to a larger separate sink vs the stock sink; so if anyone has any ideas as to how to incorporate that into the solution I'd love to hear them.

I have attached pics of the damage.


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Old 09-28-2014, 12:58 PM   #2
chuckster57
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I doubt there is a supply shut-off for those lines. Adding valves wouldn't be difficult, depending on what material the lines are made of. If they are the standard plastic (pex) there are a variety of fittings/valves that can be installed without any special tools. If they are flexible hose then all that's needed is a threaded shut-off.

A trip to the nearest RV parts counter might be best, but I am willing to bet the local big box hardware store probably has the same fittings, that's where I bought my "Own" tool for repairing those lines with the crimps.
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:19 AM   #3
Jeremym27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I doubt there is a supply shut-off for those lines. Adding valves wouldn't be difficult, depending on what material the lines are made of. If they are the standard plastic (pex) there are a variety of fittings/valves that can be installed without any special tools. If they are flexible hose then all that's needed is a threaded shut-off.

A trip to the nearest RV parts counter might be best, but I am willing to bet the local big box hardware store probably has the same fittings, that's where I bought my "Own" tool for repairing those lines with the crimps.
Thanks Chuckster. Am I safe in assuming that a threaded end cap would simply close the loop and I will have accomplished my goal of preventing this from happening again?

If so, I assume that I need to turn off the water supply to the trailer, let the water bleed out that is already there and apply the end cap. Does that sound right?

I'm not trying to be dense here, but I thought I had this problem licked before. I can do my share of carpentry but anything plumbing or electrical I avoid like the plague.
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:28 AM   #4
chuckster57
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Yes a threaded cap will work. And your procedure will work fine.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:11 PM   #5
Jeremym27
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Ok, last question (hopefully). Will this do the trick?

There is a brass version. I've noticed that the hot water hose gets...well...hot; so I wouldn't want this thing to give under pressure or due to heat

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004RC...-atf_title_1_1
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:14 PM   #6
chuckster57
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We use plastic plugs and caps on cold and hot lines without any issues. I don't think you NEED brass.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:06 PM   #7
Jeremym27
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Thanks again!
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