another tire question

[cpt_majestic]

Sorry make another tire thread, I'm sure it's been beaten to death, but this has been driving me nuts.

We have a 2012 Hideout 26 RLSWE currently running original Power King Tow Max STR, 205/75/15. The tires are coming on 5 years old and we are going to Utah in May and want to get them replaced because I won't feel comfortable on 5 year old tires going 1500 miles, duh.

I've been reading reviews and just going insane. What I've isolated it down to are GoodYear Endurance's or the GoodYear Marathons, the Marathons are similar to the Power Kings (1820 lbs./50-psi), where the Endurance is (2150 lbs/65 psi), would there be a pro/con to going with the Endurance's? I know the marathons had a recall, but I'm not sure if that's a valid reason. The cost is only around $125.00 total difference.

Thanks

[sourdough]

Sorry make another tire thread, I'm sure it's been beaten to death, but this has been driving me nuts.

We have a 2012 Hideout 26 RLSWE currently running original Power King Tow Max STR, 205/75/15. The tires are coming on 5 years old and we are going to Utah in May and want to get them replaced because I won't feel comfortable on 5 year old tires going 1500 miles, duh.

I've been reading reviews and just going insane. What I've isolated it down to are GoodYear Endurance's or the GoodYear Marathons, the Marathons are similar to the Power Kings (1820 lbs./50-psi), where the Endurance is (2150 lbs/65 psi), would there be a pro/con to going with the Endurance's? I know the marathons had a recall, but I'm not sure if that's a valid reason. The cost is only around $125.00 total difference.

Thanks

See my reply to your other post in the other thread (tires).

[CWtheMan]

Sorry make another tire thread, I'm sure it's been beaten to death, but this has been driving me nuts.

We have a 2012 Hideout 26 RLSWE currently running original Power King Tow Max STR, 205/75/15. The tires are coming on 5 years old and we are going to Utah in May and want to get them replaced because I won't feel comfortable on 5 year old tires going 1500 miles, duh.

I've been reading reviews and just going insane. What I've isolated it down to are GoodYear Endurance's or the GoodYear Marathons, the Marathons are similar to the Power Kings (1820 lbs./50-psi), where the Endurance is (2150 lbs/65 psi), would there be a pro/con to going with the Endurance's? I know the marathons had a recall, but I'm not sure if that's a valid reason. The cost is only around $125.00 total difference.

Thanks

Basically when adding a load range to the same sized tire you are satisfying the intent of the certification label and also gaining some welcomed load capacity reserves. Those reserves can only be achieved by using higher inflation pressures which the higher load capacity tire can provide. However, the Original Equipment rims may not have the specifications for the increased load capacity and inflation pressures. If the rim does not provide you with that information it is recommended to call the rim manufacturer for conformation.

[Tbos]

No history on the Endurance yet. I bought Carlisle Radial Trail HDs last summer and have been very happy with them. I increased the load rating so I'd have an extra safety cushion.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

[PARAPTOR]

Basically when adding a load range to the same sized tire you are satisfying the intent of the certification label and also gaining some welcomed load capacity reserves. Those reserves can only be achieved by using higher inflation pressures which the higher load capacity tire can provide. However, the Original Equipment rims may not have the specifications for the increased load capacity and inflation pressures. If the rim does not provide you with that information it is recommended to call the rim manufacturer for conformation.

Okay since I am having one of those Senior Moment Days today, How do you interpret the PSI rating on these rims. Example many members have elected to upgrade to 110 PSI G rated tires, think Salium ??? on their rims rated at 110 PSI. One of my reasons for not going to G rated tires were knowing that my rims were marked at 110 PSI I was concerned and went with the Carlisle Radial Trail RH ST235/85/R16 F at 95 PSI to stay below that rim 110 PSI rating.

If I recall one member did upgrade his rims for the G rated tire. When these G rated tires start heating up I am sure they will exceed the 110 PSI rating of those rims.

So how should we view these rim PSI ratings. Is this the same as our favorite posts on ignore numbers and I Can and have been Towing That ?

[CWtheMan]

These are a couple of bullets from tire industry standards. Bottom line; When in doubt, ask the rim/wheel manufacturer about specs and limits.

Never exceed the maximum load capacity and/or inflation pressure of the rim/wheel.

Never utilize an unapproved rim/wheel or one that does not meet the approved rim width range for the selected tires.

[gearhead]

CW I think PARAPTOR is concerned about putting G tires on wheels rated for 110psi max and then they exceed that pressure in use. My E tires at 80psi cold will get to 88psi in use. I would assume the wheel that is rated at 110psi (or 80) is designed for the expected increase in pressure while in use?

[PARAPTOR]

Thanks gearhead, that's the question

[Tbos]

I could be wrong but I can't imagine that a rim PSI isn't done like a tire. It just doesn't say so on it.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

[PARAPTOR]

I could be wrong but I can't imagine that a rim PSI isn't done like a tire. It just doesn't say so on it.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

Boy can not remember how many times I have said this while looking into a RV issue :facepalm:

[CaptnJohn]

Carlisle has a good reputation. Endurance is too new to have a reputation. Marathon are not reviewed very well... That should give my answer....

[CWtheMan]

Tire and wheel builders use various laws of thermodynamics to account for the increased pressures generated by heat. In the fitment of wheels and tires the recommended cold inflation pressures for the maximum load capacities have therefore been accounted for.

An OEM tire with a maximum load capacity of 3520# @ 80 psi would not overtax an OEM rim with a maximum load capacity of 3520# @ 80 psi.

[PARAPTOR]

(tx) Got it

[itat]

To the OP looking at 205/75/15 tires. The Maxxis M8008 tires (http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-122-st-radial-m8008) are very highly rated. I've also had good luck with Duro ST tires (http://www.durotire.com/portals/0/Images/Tirespecs/ds2100.html). My previous popup had Carlisle tires that lasted more than 10 years.

I have a personal bias against Goodyear tires of any kind. The Marathons have mixed reviews and the Endurance are too new.

[cpt_majestic]

This thread has really enlightened me. So my current tires are 1820lbs \50psi, c rated, yet I cant find a tire that is 8ply D rated in 1820lbs. I've attached the sticker that's on my current wheel and it clearly says 1820, yet when I pull up the tech sheet from dexstar it says my model can handle up to 2150 lbs, I have attached the sticker and will have to call dexstar on Monday because I just missed them, time zone wise..

Does that look about right?? Thanks


http://www.dexstarwheel.com/products.pdf

http://www.keystoneforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_228251_0_60a36ff25fa725329763f10a16128331.jpg

[cpt_majestic]

I spoke to Dexstar this morning and she said this "older" wheel was only rated for 1820lbs, the newer models are now rated for 2150 lbs..So it looks like I'm stuck with C rated's or upgrade my wheels...ugh

[itat]

Did Dexstar say the wheels can't handle 65 psi? Sure they may be limited in weight capacity but a LRD tire, properly inflated, will be a better tire. Just don't load your trailer to be heavier than the wheels can handle. Either way, stick with a highly rated tire brand/model.

[bsmith0404]

As stated, find out what the psi rating is for the wheel. IMO it is okay to put a tire on that is rated for more weight than the wheel as long as you do not exceed the weight rating for the wheel. It's no different than upgrading the tire and wheel combo for more weight than the axle is rated for. At that point you just can't exceed the rating of the axle. It doesn't hurt to increase the capability of any of the 3 components as long as your actual weights don't exceed the capability of the weakest link.

[ToddB]

As a newbie about to hit the road full-time, I really appreciate all of the info about tires and wheels. It will absolutely keep my family safer on the road.

What really gets me is how the trailer manufacturers and dealers can get away with selling me a BRAND NEW trailer that is stated to have a 1,950 lbs cargo capacity (one of the selling points because of my full-time plans) while putting tires on the trailer that are only rated for 1,720 lbs! (Haven't checked the wheel load capacity yet, but will soon thanks to this post.)

One RVer I follow had THREE blowouts in the first six months on his new trailer because the tires were lower rated (below trailer cargo capacity). If I hadn't seen his video about learning this important piece of info after the fact, I wouldn't have thought to look into all of these issues.

So I'm grateful to him and grateful to you folks for laying all of this out and keeping us safe. Long live the forum.

[TallEddie]

As a newbie about to hit the road full-time, I really appreciate all of the info about tires and wheels. It will absolutely keep my family safer on the road.

What really gets me is how the trailer manufacturers and dealers can get away with selling me a BRAND NEW trailer that is stated to have a 1,950 lbs cargo capacity (one of the selling points because of my full-time plans) while putting tires on the trailer that are only rated for 1,720 lbs! (Haven't checked the wheel load capacity yet, but will soon thanks to this post.)

One RVer I follow had THREE blowouts in the first six months on his new trailer because the tires were lower rated (below trailer cargo capacity). If I hadn't seen his video about learning this important piece of info after the fact, I wouldn't have thought to look into all of these issues.

So I'm grateful to him and grateful to you folks for laying all of this out and keeping us safe. Long live the forum.

When you look at the cargo capacity, you have to consider the trailer as a whole, not look at individual tires. Sure, the tires individually have a 1720 lb capacity, but you have more than one tire. you also have to add in the weight carried on the hitch. It is quite common for the load capacity of all the tires combined to be less than the GVWR of the trailer, because some of the trailers weight is carried by the tow vehicle by the hitch.

[ToddB]

Well, I might have used the wrong terminology there. The bottom sticker on the side of the trailer says:

"TIRE AND LOADING INFORMATION
The weight of cargo should never exceed 780 KG or 1720 LBS"

I was taking that to mean that the tires were only rated for a total of 1720 LBS. But the tires themselves say:

"Max Load Single 1760 LBS
Max Load Dual 1570 LBS"

The sticker just above that one, showing Keystone RV company as the manufacturer, provides a GVWR of 7000 LBS, and the curb weight on the Keystone site is listed as 5085 LBS. So there is a difference of 205 LBS between the info provided on the two stickers that I am not certain how to interpret.

With these three pieces of information combined, I'm just trying to figure out what is the maximum SAFE load that I can carry as it is currently configured. But I still don't have info on the wheels themselves at this point, and I know that is crucial.

Sorry to make this painful, but I am struggling to sort through it all.

[srvnt]

Sorry make another tire thread, I'm sure it's been beaten to death, but this has been driving me nuts.

We have a 2012 Hideout 26 RLSWE currently running original Power King Tow Max STR, 205/75/15. The tires are coming on 5 years old and we are going to Utah in May and want to get them replaced because I won't feel comfortable on 5 year old tires going 1500 miles, duh.

I've been reading reviews and just going insane. What I've isolated it down to are GoodYear Endurance's or the GoodYear Marathons, the Marathons are similar to the Power Kings (1820 lbs./50-psi), where the Endurance is (2150 lbs/65 psi), would there be a pro/con to going with the Endurance's? I know the marathons had a recall, but I'm not sure if that's a valid reason. The cost is only around $125.00 total difference.

Thanks

Endurance LRD made in America. #MAGA

[sourdough]

ToddB - "With these three pieces of information combined, I'm just trying to figure out what is the maximum SAFE load that I can carry as it is currently configured?"

My thought would be not much if I'm reading your numbers right. If the GVW of the trailer is 7000 lbs. and the max. weight for your tires is 1760 x4 = 7040 you have very little margin for error on the tires.

There is the premise that the tongue carries some of the weight so you can deduct that from the weight the tires carry. I don't go by that. When I'm on an undulating highway (Jackson, MS for example) there are many times that my tongue is UP - the full weight of the trailer is on the tires plus some I'm sure. The weight is being shoved up and down on the tires as we bounce along - the hitch weight is not fully carried by the truck at those times.

Some of Keystone's trailers seem to come with a nice reserve capacity but it seems they stick with the same tires as the trailers get larger until they are almost overloaded before they go to a larger size. Why I have no idea.

My trailer has a gvw of 10,000 lbs. My OE tires were rated at 2540 each or 10,160. I had one self destruct in short order causing 7k in damage. I'm positive it is for the reasons I mentioned above. I upgraded to a LRE tire and feel much better and have had no issues in two trips to FL and back to TX. My tires also seem to run cooler that they did with the LRD tires (taken with an infrared heat gun).

My thought would be to replace your tires before you take a long trip and find the underside or side of your trailer missing due to a tire failure.

[Desert185]

Another thing to consider is that the tires degrade in capabilty a certain percentage each year. By the time you reach the end of life of the tire, any margin that might have existed is gone, with the effective remaining capacity possibly below the gross weight being carried.

If I were that close with tire loading, I would go from a LRC to a D or a D to an E with a Maxxis or Carlisle tire...metal stems, balanced and with a TPMS installed.

There are enough threats on the road without incurring one you could have prevented with a little preparation and maybe more than a few dollars. Doing nothing could result in even more dollars expended.

[CWtheMan]

As a newbie about to hit the road full-time, I really appreciate all of the info about tires and wheels. It will absolutely keep my family safer on the road.

What really gets me is how the trailer manufacturers and dealers can get away with selling me a BRAND NEW trailer that is stated to have a 1,950 lbs cargo capacity (one of the selling points because of my full-time plans) while putting tires on the trailer that are only rated for 1,720 lbs! (Haven't checked the wheel load capacity yet, but will soon thanks to this post.)

One RVer I follow had THREE blowouts in the first six months on his new trailer because the tires were lower rated (below trailer cargo capacity). If I hadn't seen his video about learning this important piece of info after the fact, I wouldn't have thought to look into all of these issues.

So I'm grateful to him and grateful to you folks for laying all of this out and keeping us safe. Long live the forum.

The cargo capacity label is affixed to the trailer as it was equipped when it left the factory. For all practical purposes it is unused space for weight that was left over once all other weights were established.

Other factors are the manufacturers' values for each axle shown on the certification label as GAWR. Now, the trailer manufacturer must come-up with an acceptable recommended tongue/hitch weight. By acceptable, it must work and have a value within industry standards. Then they must add that hitch weight to total GAWR weights. The sum MUST equal or exceed GVWR.

For RV trailers, tires are fitted to each GAWR according to the weight rating of the GAWR axles. The trailer manufacturer must also set a cold recommended tire inflation pressure that is appropriate for the installed tires. That info is also on the certification label/tire placard.

If a dealer installs options totaling more than 100#, before the trailer is sold, they must amend the cargo label to reflect the weight changes.

The tires on the trailer at the time of first sale must be the same size identified on the certification label.

On edit: I went and looked at the specs for your trailer. Your GAWR axles should be about 3200# ea.. You can verify that by looking at the certification label on the LH forward external section of your trailer.

[busterbrown]

Another thing to consider is that the tires degrade in capabilty a certain percentage each year. By the time you reach the end of life of the tire, any margin that might have existed is gone, with the effective remaining capacity possibly below the gross weight being carried.

If I were that close with tire loading, I would go from a LRC to a D or a D to an E with a Maxxis or Carlisle tire...metal stems, balanced and with a TPMS installed.

There are enough threats on the road without incurring one you could have prevented with a little preparation and maybe more than a few dollars. Doing nothing could result in even more dollars expended.

That about sums it up perfectly.