Rear end sway caused by tires F150 17" Rims

[AussieCanadian]

Hi all,

I wasn't sure where to post this (IE in towing or tires), however I took our trailer out last week for the first outing of summer '14, and had some significant rear end instability which felt a lot like trailer sway, but I believe maybe caused by the tires, and more specifically, the deflection of the sidewalls.

A few details - we recently upgraded our TV to a new 2014 F150 XLT 4x4 SCrew. The truck is a 5.0L with 3.73s and came fitted with factory "P" 17" wheels and tires. Trailer is a Keystone Hideout 24BHWE, 5800lbs (loaded) Towing hardware is a Reese WD hitch with the round bars. We never had this issue with our previous TV, but that vehicle (Ram 1500) had 20" wheels and P rated tires.

Some basics first - the receiver on my new TV is 0.5" higher from ground level than my old TV - this meant I was sitting slightly more nose up, and in addition, my WD bars were on the 2nd last chain link, and not as tensioned as they were with my old TV. As a trial, I have purchased a new drop shank to lower the ball 1" so the TV and trailer sit more level, and I can increased the tension on the WD bars. This MAY help, but I still believe this could be a tire issue.

SO why do I think this is tires? I drove our truck empty (no trailer) and simply by some slight left to right movement of the steering wheel at 60mph (100km/h in Canada) I could replicate the feeling of the rear end moving around - almost as if the tires were flexing laterally, a feeling which would be amplified if you through the trailer on the back. The max rated pressure of these tires is 44psi, and I have checked and filled to 42psi BEFORE I towed - hence I don't believe this is simply a tire pressure issue.

Has anyone had a similar experience before with the F150? As I mentioned, we never had this issue with our previous TV, and I am lost as to how to solve it. The new drop shank (and adjusting WD bars) may help, but is there anyone out there that has a F150 with the 17" rims (standard XLT wheels and tires) with similar issues? How did you solve it? Should I upgrade to 20" rims to reduce the lateral movement? Should I purchase new "LT" types tires rather than the "P" tires? We are planning a summer off this year and planning ~7500 kms (5,000mi) of combined towing over 3 months.... but with this issue and unstable feel, I am having serious concerns....

Hope to hear from other F150 owners out there...

Thanks!

AussieCanadian

[Javi]

June 1, 2012 purchased a bumper pull 2890RL Passport and tried to pull it with a 2012 F150 145" wheelbase pickup, the combo waggled its butt like a belly dancer and nothing seemed to help. It wasn't sway... the rear of the truck waggled not the trailer. After changing tires, shocks, and hitches the truck still waggled at highway speeds..

Sold the truck at the DW's insistence and bought bigger one... Surprise, surprise stock tires, stock shocks, plain old W/D hitch with a friction sway bar... trailer pulls like a dream and even a passing semi has no effect.

I've worked in the industry when I was much younger and had a gut feeling that the salesman and Ford were lying to me when they said that little light weight, short coupled pickup would pull that trailer and my gut was proven right...

[AussieCanadian]

Thanks for your input Javi.

I'm seriously hoping that this issue is not that i'm hitting the F150's high end limit for towing.... if that's the case, and from what you describe, it's new truck, which we simply cannot afford right now...

Right now I am very confused, as our new XLT SCrew 4x4 has a higher GCWR rating than our previous TV. Specifically, the F150 is rated for 15,100lbs GCWR, and has a 9,300lbs tow rating, compared to 14,000lbs GCWR and 8,000lbs tow rating on our previous 1/2 ton (RAM 1500 4x4 Crew). If Ford really is lying about the TRUE capabilities of their trucks, and what I felt (rear end waggle) is evidence (note - i NEVER had this issue with our RAM - it was solid as a rock, even when passing semis and in high winds), then I want my money back on this F150! Maybe I need to take it up with Ford, but I need to do something as the truck feels very unsafe towing our trailer... there is no way I could tow more than about 100km - it feels that bad.

Any other F150 owners with similar issues? I was really hoping that the tires could have been the issue.... should I post this in the 'TOWING' section perhaps?

[Javi]

The LT tires helped, the heavy duty shocks helped, the rear sway bar helped, the fancy hitch helped but in the end the wife just wasn't satisfied and WE all know what happens then.. :D

I really think that if it had been an 8' bed 172" wheelbase it would have been fine. The short WB on the light trucks is just a killer with the longer heavier trailers. I was well within the trucks capabilities on paper but real life is sometimes much different than "on paper" a fact I'm painfully aware of as a design engineer... :D

[Jager]

Aussie . . . understand, Javi is telling you that it may be the specific wheel base you're running now. Have you ever seen/heard of wind blowing across a bridge and causing it to oscillate? Even to the point it collapses the bridge (google Tacoma Narrow Bridge). Well the same thing can happen when towing. Your truck / trailer combination hits a harmonic or natural frequency and can cause major problems. If changing vehicles isn't an option I would try adding hitch weight. You can do this by placing more stuff in the front of the camper and less in the rear. Or you could fix it permanently by moving the axle(s) on the camper to the rear. You might also try adding weight in the rear of the truck, maybe a face cord of firewood. You need to change the balance between the truck and trailer.

Anyway, just an idea.


BTW > > > 1/2 ton truck pulling 9,300lbs? ahhh, yah. Good luck with that. However your weight is no where near that from your post. So I don't think it is the weight.

[AussieCanadian]

Thanks a lot, Jager.

I totally agree... I would NEVER pull anywhere close to 9,300lbs with this (or any) 1/2 ton. I was very conscious of this when trailer shopping, and we stayed within our limits (on paper at least). I am actually a little mad at myself that I traded our RAM 1500 (lease was up) as that truck was setup by the dealer when we bought our trailer, and felt VERY stable when towing.... now with our new TV, I seem to have a setup that is quite a handful, and has really detracted from our towing (& camping) experience - hence why we need to fix it!

So our trailer is 4,520 dry, and loaded is around 5,800 (that includes batteries, propane, water tanks full, camping gear etc). I take you point, and it's a good one, that I should add weight to the rear of the truck, and/or front of the camper. I will try this next time we head out and see what difference it makes.

I have dropped my ball height 1" (using a new deep drop shank) so I should be able to tighten up the WD bars more next time I head out. Should that improve things do you think? I am also considering upgrading my wheels from the 17" (and P tires) to 18" wheels with LT rated tires.... any thoughts on that?

Thanks again!

[austinp]

I have 18" on my 2012 Ecoboost F150 and so far my towing experience has been good. The only time I have experienced any sway is when being passed by a large semi or class A. The sway experienced was about 6" and was manageable. My trailer is 6600 lbs dry with a 720 lb hitch weight. I have never gotten sway with an unloaded truck.

[Ken / Claudia]

Next trip with the new hitch, go over a scale, check wt, of rear axle, read what the tire says is max. wt and max. psi. A heavier ply tire will always help and may be needed, you won't know until you get the real wt.s from a scale. 10 ply tires at 65-80 psi vs what have now will help but, will it end the problem I cannot say. Sounds like Javi is giving you some good information and been there/done that advice.

[AussieCanadian]

Hi AustinP,

Thanks for the response - I noticed you also own a Hideout - but the longer, and heavier version than mine. I have the 24BHWE (although my wife WANTED the 28BHSWE!) which does not have a slide, and is 4,520 dry / 5,800 loaded with our setup.

Question for you - how much drop did you need on your hitch setup? Did you need to buy a new (deeper) drop shank? I went ahead and purchased a new Reese deep drop shank as I couldn't go any lower on my 2" drop shank that was setup for our previous TV (RAM 1500). I believe that our 2 trailers may have the same coupler height, and your truck's receiver (presuming it's a 4x4 also, and has the std Ford suspension setup) should also be the same as mine... would be good to know.

[austinp]

We have the 28BHSWE. I am using the shank that came with the Reese round bar 1000lb WD hitch setup. No drop on my setup. My truck is a 2wd with stock suspension so I assume it's about 1 inch lower that yours. I also use two friction sway bars.

[JRTJH]

As I've been reading through this thread, nowhere does it state that you've actually gone out, parked your truck (without the trailer) and measured the front wheelwell height, then hooked up the trailer, set up the bars and measured the front wheelwell height with trailer attached. That is what "setting up the hitch" is all about, returning the "drivability" to the front axle by transferring the lost weight (from the trailer being attached behind the rear axle) to as close to it's original weight as possible.

When you drive your truck "solo" you have about a 60/40 weight distribution. That's 60% of your trucks weight on the front axle and 40% on the rear axle. This gives your steering a "specific feel" that you interpret as "normal steering". When you add 700 lbs (just for explanation purposes) about 30" behind the rear axle, you significantly "unload" the front axle and cause the steering to feel "light and squiggley".

The purpose of the weight distribution hitch is NOT to return the truck to "level" with the trailer attached, the purpose of the WD hitch is to reload the required weight on the front axle so steering (and vehicle controllability) can be maintained.

It sounds like when your dealership "set up your Dodge" they got it right, and when you "set up your Ford" you copied the links and hitch height that worked on the Dodge.... That's not how you set up a truck/trailer combo.

Take your rig to a level concrete parking lot, unhitch, measure from the ground to the bottom of the front fenderwell (above the tire), record that measurement, then hitch the trailer and adjust your weight distribution bars until that measurement is within 1/2" of the "unloaded height".

Then, stand back and see if your trailer is sitting "level" or "slightly nose down" If it is, then you're close to being properly set up. If the trailer is "nose high", THEN you need to lower your hitch height. If you can't get the front wheelwell height correct, then you need to adjust the washers (remove or add) to change the hitch angle so you can "crank the WD bars down tighter or loosen them to get the wheelwell height correct.

Don't try to level your truck !!! That's what causes most issues with hitch WD adjustment problems. The truck will (not maybe, not could, not might) the truck WILL sit lower in the back than when empty.

It's the front fenderwell height that you must get right or you'll never have a "controllable" rig.

Good Luck

[LittleJoe]

JRTJH

Well said. When trouble shooting you have to start at the beginning and eliminate possible problems systematically. "slightly less" (lower than level) on the tongue can go along ways toward stability, especially when steering axle weight is properly done. It can make an unacceptable situation much more pallatable.

[f6bits]

Your setup is less of a load than mine, and mine tows quite well. Loaded, it's 6,000 lbs.

What 17" wheels does Ford put on stock? The Raptors are 17", but all the others I've seen are 18" or 20".

I'm not totally familiar with all Reese hitches, but does the "round bar" setup include sway control?

Another issue could be how the trailer is loaded. Some time on the scales would help:
Weigh truck solo and get front and rear axle weights. Weigh trailer solo and get total weight. Hook up with WD bars, then weigh each truck axle, and the trailer's axles. Re-weigh this setup with WD bars disconnected (this method should show 12 or so percent of trailer's total weight on the hitch).

A heavily rear-loaded trailer will wag way too much.

[rnkburg]

My 2013 had hancook tires on it. I was experiencing sway with a 16' utility open trailer. I had the tires replaced with 10 ply lt truck tires. When they took my hancooks off they could take there hand and collapse the sidewall. They were squishy as the tech called it. He also said he had never seen sidewalls that soft before. The new tires made a world of difference and the truck drives so much better

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

[Javi]

Your setup is less of a load than mine, and mine tows quite well. Loaded, it's 6,000 lbs.

What 17" wheels does Ford put on stock? The Raptors are 17", but all the others I've seen are 18" or 20".

I'm not totally familiar with all Reese hitches, but does the "round bar" setup include sway control?

Another issue could be how the trailer is loaded. Some time on the scales would help:
Weigh truck solo and get front and rear axle weights. Weigh trailer solo and get total weight. Hook up with WD bars, then weigh each truck axle, and the trailer's axles. Re-weigh this setup with WD bars disconnected (this method should show 12 or so percent of trailer's total weight on the hitch).

A heavily rear-loaded trailer will wag way too much.

The OEM tires/wheels on my 2011 F-150 were P265/70-17, I switched them out for LT tires and it did help with the shimmy but not enough.

What y'all are missing is that this isn't sway of the trailer, the trailer is tracking just fine. It is a shimmy back and forth of the tail of the truck. Think of it as if someone was pushing sideways or rocking the back of the truck rapidly.

I had people follow me while towing that reported the trailer was stable but the rear of the truck was moving.

I agree that the OP needs to make sure that his hitch is correctly adjusted but that isn't going to alleviate or even reduce this problem. I know this because we tried adjusting it out with the hitch and even tried the Equalizer hitch. It just wasn't the trailer moving.... it is the truck.

I finally solved it by replacing the truck, after spending a couple of grand trying to fix the issue.

Call it harmonics, call it a spring issue, call it a light weight truck, call it whatever but the bottom line was.... the DW was uncomfortable with the constant rocking of the truck while we towed. The truck had plenty of power, it had plenty of payload but it just wasn't up to the task.

In the truck's defense it wasn't purchased as a tow vehicle, had that been the intent it would have at the least been the HEAVY DUTY version. It was bought to haul the DW and grandkids around comfortably. We now have a truck which will do both..

[Javi]

I found this AFTER I had already replaced the F150 but thought I'd post it for y'all.. This is from Car & Driver April 2011
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2011-ford-f-150-xlt-supercrew-4x4-50-v8-review


The first of our two gripes is the steering. Its responsiveness is a benefit when not towing, but the wheel is a touch too sensitive on-center, and it loads up quickly within just a few degrees, which keeps it twitching when there’s a trailer out back. A vehicle meant for work shouldn’t have a rack this active.

Our other complaint concerns the suspension and the chassis. Although rated to tow a max of 9300 pounds in this configuration, the truck bounced, bucked, and was pushed around by less than half that weight. We have no knocks against the powertrain, especially using the transmission’s tow mode, but the F-150’s foundation felt soft and unsettled. If you’re regularly towing heavy loads and need a Ford, we recommend stepping up to the F-250.

[f6bits]

Javi, are you saying it's not a trailer issue, but a payload issue with the truck? If this is the case, can't the OP throw in 800 lbs or so up against the tailgate and see if it's still an issue?

As I said, it's a similar setup to mine and I'm not having that issue. On a smooth road, the ride is a dream. On a rough road, it's just bouncy, but no wiggle.

[Javi]

Javi, are you saying it's not a trailer issue, but a payload issue with the truck? If this is the case, can't the OP throw in 800 lbs or so up against the tailgate and see if it's still an issue?

As I said, it's a similar setup to mine and I'm not having that issue. On a smooth road, the ride is a dream. On a rough road, it's just bouncy, but no wiggle.

Yes it is NOT and issue with the trailer swaying, nor does it seem to be related to tongue weight or payload of the truck itself. I believe it is a suspension and physical weight of the truck as a unit. My trailer has a GVWR of 7200 but as towed weighs a little less than 6600. During the battle to fix the issue we tried several variations of tongue weight ranging all the way up to 1100 lbs all with little to no effect on the shimmy.

A rear sway bar also helped as did the Blistein shocks and new LT tires but we could never get it to go completely away. I was at the point of replacing the rear springs with a heavier pair when I came to my senses and traded the truck off for a Super Duty. Somebody got a very nice 1/2 ton with a lot of work done to it. :( The one thing I did not try was putting airbags on the truck but by the time I got to that point I'd had all of that truck I wanted.

The major difference is that you have the MAX TOW, I didn't and I expect that neither does the OP.

[AussieCanadian]

Thanks very much for all the replies.

You're correct Javi on the 17" tire size being P265/70-17 (Michelin LTX2's) and these are standard on the XLT unless you opt for the Chrome Package (in US) or the XTR package (if you're in Canada).

After reading all the responses, especially yours JRTJH, thank you - I will approach this issue systematically and then report back. I have a few steps identified so far:

1) Take the truck and trailer down to a level pad, and level the unit up. I do have a new drop shank for my hitch setup (Reese WD hitch w/ round bars) which will give me another 2" of drop if I needed it (I was at the lowest setting with my old shank).

2) Measure the front height of truck with trailer hitched (taking measurement without load with me) - from top of tire to top of wheel arch and record, and adjust WD bars until close (0.5") to empty measurement.

3) After this is complete, take the unit to highway speeds - test

4) Re-adjust as necessary - try weight in back of truck as well as re-distributing weight more to front of trailer.

5) Test again

6) If still not good, I am going to throw on another set of wheels to test it out. I have a set of 20" rims that are heavier, and due to lower profile I believe may improve the trucks handling. My GVWR is 7,350 and I figure i'm around 6,700 on the truck, which includes passengers, gear and the tongue weight. Seems that those with 18" fitted with larger rims (not just those on here, but others I've talked to in campgrounds) don't have this issue... and they are also driving on "P" (not LT) tires.

Thanks again - this is all really helpful and very sound advice... i love thsi forum! Happy camping to all (and hopefully happy towing for me) :) I will report back in a few days...

[AussieCanadian]

Also - RE: GVWR and weights.... I will go to a scale to take measurements, as I realize that "figurative" measurements (like those I gave above) have no place in the real world :)

[JRTJH]

Just to simplify some of your steps, the best way to adjust your front fender height is to not move the truck between measurements...

Do this by towing your rig to the level place where you'll do the work, park it, set the parking brake, uncouple the trailer and use the tongue jack to lift the trailer hitch completely off the ball. measure the front fender height, then simply lower the hitch onto the ball until the jack is no longer touching the ground, measure the front fender well. Those two measurements will give you the "rise" caused by the trailer tongue weight. Then use your "pry bar" to "load" your WD bars. Remeasure your front fender height and adjust your bars as needed to get the front fender measurement back to "the unloaded measurement"...... Then stand back and see if the trailer is "nose down" or "level".... If it is "nose high" you'll need to lower your hitch ball to get the trailer to a "nose down" or "level" configuration.

DON'T MOVE YOUR TRUCK WHILE DOING THE ABOVE. You'll never get the "level spot" to be the same from place to place in a parking lot and any difference in angle will cause your measurements to be wrong......

[AussieCanadian]

Excellent - thank you John!

I plan to do this tomorrow, before we head out on a longer trip next weekend. I will take the unit for a quick drive (after adjustment) at highway speeds, and see how it does. It always those longer trips that I seem to notice anything though :)

[AussieCanadian]

Hi all,

I have just returned from another weekend trip and thought I would post an update.

I completed all of the steps to adjust the height of the unit. Looks very level - weighed in and tongue weight measured 650lbs - measured with the truck empty. Then weighed the trailer (loaded) and it was 5400lbs. I was able to adjust the WD bars so the front wheel arch measurement was 1/2" within the unloaded level - as suggested by JRTJH.

Long story short - all these adjustments made no difference to the stability issues I had mentioned earlier. I still have the standard michelin tires on the truck (P265/70/R17) and that will be the next thing I might try.

The really strange thing is.... I can 'waggle' the whole truck when it's hitched and standing still in a parking lot. If I push on the WD bars back and forth with my foot, the back of the truck waggles like crazy, and I can actually see the tire sidewalls flexing way more than what I would expect. I can only imagine how much flex they have when i'm travelling at highway speeds!

Right now I don't know what to try. I believe Javi - that this is basically an issue with the F150, and I am totally shocked at Ford. My RAM never had anything like this kind of issue, and I feel completely unsafe towing with this truck. I wish I could have my RAM back.

Any other suggestions at all??

[Javi]

Basically you have two choices... Wish I had better news

1. Trade for a F250 or 2500

2. is a series of things.


Start with replacing the P tires with an equivalent diameter 10 ply LT tire.
Add Bilstein 5100 shocks to all 4 corners
Add a rear stabilizer
If all that fails add heavier springs or get P.O.'d like I did and go trade it in for an F250 :D

[AussieCanadian]

Thanks Javi... as much as that is bad news.... I appreciate your experience and recommendations.

Did you ever take this issue up with Ford? I ask, because I sold a RAM 1500 for this F150, and the RAM did not show a single issue. It was solid as a rock when towing the same trailer with the exact same hitch and everything....

Honestly, I feel like I am owed a refund from Ford.

[Javi]

Thanks Javi... as much as that is bad news.... I appreciate your experience and recommendations.

Did you ever take this issue up with Ford? I ask, because I sold a RAM 1500 for this F150, and the RAM did not show a single issue. It was solid as a rock when towing the same trailer with the exact same hitch and everything....

Honestly, I feel like I am owed a refund from Ford.

I understand, I didn't buy mine with the intention of pulling a trailer. I though I was done with pulling. Up until then I had owned or driven Dodge diesel duallys for both work and personal travel. I drove an average of 100,000 miles a year, most of it pulling 10K plus trailers.

When I retired from the fertilizer business I thought my days of pulling anything more than a small boat were over. My wife was adamantly against a camping trailer and camping. Although when younger we camped occasionally and I had worked as a mechanic in the RV industry for several years and had the use of pretty much any used motor home or trailer I wanted.

The F150 was bought to haul the 3 grandkids around, little did I know that she'd decide on the spur of the moment that we needed a camping trailer and that it had to be 30 foot long....:rolleyes:

I had misgivings from the get go on the size of the trailer and the F150 but Ford and the trailer dealer, not to mention many of the internet experts told me that it would be no problem... In my excitement that the wife WANTED a trailer I quashed my misgivings and bought the trailer.

I really can't blame anyone but myself, I knew better and let myself believe the internet hype and experts despite my gut feelings.

[AussieCanadian]

Thanks Javi.

Just to confirm your recommendations. My truck is brand new - only 3,000kms. Upgrading the tires definitely sounds like the #1 move, but would you recommend ditching the OEM shocks even though they're so new? Is the performance/handling of the Bilstein that much better?

Trying to understand the 'bang for the buck' here... I will send the bill to Ford for payment :D

[Javi]

Thanks Javi.

Just to confirm your recommendations. My truck is brand new - only 3,000kms. Upgrading the tires definitely sounds like the #1 move, but would you recommend ditching the OEM shocks even though they're so new? Is the performance/handling of the Bilstein that much better?

Trying to understand the 'bang for the buck' here... I will send the bill to Ford for payment :D

Yes sir, the OEM shocks are junk to start with and too soft for a truck from the get go... In my opinion the Bilstein 5100's are the best available.

[AussieCanadian]

Thanks again Javi.

So, i've decided that I will go with replacement shocks first then tires second. Seemed logical that way as the firmer ride from the shocks might just be enough to help with handling. If that doesn't work, then I will invest in tires. The load on the current "P" tires is well within the rating of each tire hence it's the sidewall stiffness that i'm chasing.

I just ordered a new set of front (ride height adjustable) and rear Bilstein 5100's. Not cheap ($1,100 installed) but i'm sure worth the upgrade. It's about 2 weeks before they can get them on, so will have some time to wait before then.

Will keep you posted!

[audio1der]

Hi AC, sounds like you're having similar issues to what we're experiencing with our Ram 1500/3220BH. I am leaning towards tires first, as I feel the compliant sidewall used to give a comfy ride is inadequate for stable towing.
I find it interesting that your experience with your previous Ram was so positive. I'll follow this closely.

May i ask where you bought your longer drop shank? That's next for me s we're still 1-2" nose high.

[AussieCanadian]

Hi Audio1der,

Must be the towing west into our glorious AB mountains??? Lol :)

Very interesting that you have a similar issue with your Ram. I note that you're pulling a longer trailer that we have though. Ours is a 24'. Not saying that is an issue at all cos not aure of your weights but it may make it difficult to correlate our experiences. Just don't want you to make your decision based on my Ram experience alone! :)

Anyhow - quick answer to your shank question. It was bought from Hitch Experts in Calgary NW - Crowfoot Circle. They have a variety of various sized drops there. I went from my original (which gave 2" of drop) to this one which allows up to 3 and 3/4" of drop. Cost me $150 which included them refitting the WD hitch head.

I'm curious now... which model year is your Ram and which trim? Ours was a 2012 1500 Sport with 20" rims and goodyear wrangler HP tires. That truck was awesome as a TV and I wish I could have it back. I think the firmer (sport) suspension tune and 20" rims and tires both contributed to a more 'stable' feel when towing. I am actually thinking of selling this F150 and going back to a Ram Sport if the shocks don't fix the issues....

Cheers!

[AussieCanadian]

Ahhh... apologies! Just saw your truck specs on your post 'tag'. Will read everything next time :)

So assuming you have the same good years on your Ram our truck was identical except i had the 3.55 rear and yours is the 3.92s. Dealer couldnt find a 3.92 when i bought my truck... but i did get the 3.73s in my Ford.

[AussieCanadian]

Hi all,

It has been a while since my last post so wanted to provide an update on this situation.

Firstly - the issue has been escalated with Ford Canada whom to be honest have been little help to date other than confirming the same recommendations that have been made here by Javi (for LT tires and shocks). I am in back and forth battles with Ford corporate as to why they are advertising this truck with a tow rating of 9300lbs when it is clear that in factory configuration it is nowhere near capable of that.

Apart from the escalation - i bit the bullet and spent $1000 on new set of LT tires. They are Cooper Discoverer AT/3 load range E (10 ply). Loaded these to 65psi (they are rated at 80psi max) and they made quite a significant improvement. No changes to hitch setup or anything else but truck now feels more stable with far less sway. That said - it still occasionally feels a little squirmy but no where near how bad it was to begin with.

1 vote from me to anyone having towing handling issues - LT tires for me made a solid improvement and I consider it money well spent.

[rnkburg]

You may check with the tire mfg as well. I had the hancooks on my 2013 and they did the same thing. After a while they did it without a trailer. When I took them off and put 10 ply bfg tires on you could collapse the sidewall with your hand. The tires were junk.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

[Randy_K]

Hi all,

It has been a while since my last post so wanted to provide an update on this situation.

Firstly - the issue has been escalated with Ford Canada whom to be honest have been little help to date other than confirming the same recommendations that have been made here by Javi (for LT tires and shocks). I am in back and forth battles with Ford corporate as to why they are advertising this truck with a tow rating of 9300lbs when it is clear that in factory configuration it is nowhere near capable of that.

Apart from the escalation - i bit the bullet and spent $1000 on new set of LT tires. They are Cooper Discoverer AT/3 load range E (10 ply). Loaded these to 65psi (they are rated at 80psi max) and they made quite a significant improvement. No changes to hitch setup or anything else but truck now feels more stable with far less sway. That said - it still occasionally feels a little squirmy but no where near how bad it was to begin with.

1 vote from me to anyone having towing handling issues - LT tires for me made a solid improvement and I consider it money well spent.

I run the same tires on my F150. However, I do have a long bed truck,18" rims and air bags . Towing my Passport 23RB with a additional 700 lbs in the bed of the truck. < 2 motorcycles) I use a Husky centerline hitch and have had no issues with sway at all.