White Screen of Death...

Fuzion33

New Member
Joined
May 20, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Farr West
Hey all, so I have the Gen 1 InCommand or JRVCS1, and got the dreaded white screen of death, for the second time, the first time ASA electronics warrantied my display controller a few years ago. However, this time when I contacted ASA they informed me that there was no more warranties and that this system is obsolete and I would have to pay an RV dealer to 'upgrade' to the NCSP3. I about hit the floor. After doing some research I found a company, Radwell International, that can repair these. So I have a few questions, first, has anyone dealt with this company in repairing these display controllers? Or does anyone have any other suggestions? Last question, does anyone know how to bypass the water heater, like alligator jump certain terminals to bypass the relay on the BCM? I have a trip this Memorial Weekend and this is kind killing the buzz, we will be on hookups so that helps but....anyway, any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I think you are in a "nothing to lose" situation with Radwell. The part you have now is useless to you. They will either fix it or they won't, in which case you are no worse off (and you can ask your CC company for a chargeback in the worst case).

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the manual for that unit is here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1340155/In-Command-Jrvcs2.html?page=7#manual

It looks from this as if you want to jumper +12V from #81 to position #53 and/or #54 depending on how you want to run the heater. I'm not guaranteeing this information.

EDIT: To avoid possibly damaging the BCM too, I'd disconnect the wires from #53 and #54 first, and jumper to those wires away from the BCM board.
 
I am sorry, but it is posts like this that make me so thankful that my brand new Cougar was built without InCommand.
 

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Seriously, you could say much the same about any Keystone "innovation."
The "stay open" hinges that damage the door panels have cost me much more grief and money than inCommand ever has (zero). I never had a problem with the T-latches on my old rig, and wish I could have them back.
 
Seriously, you could say much the same about any Keystone "innovation."
The "stay open" hinges that damage the door panels have cost me much more grief and money than inCommand ever has (zero). I never had a problem with the T-latches on my old rig, and wish I could have them back.


Not trying to derail the OPs issue with InCommand but I have to say that I like the friction hinges. Had them on the last 2 trailers and had zero problems. As far as In Command problems vs friction hinges I would say from everything I've read on various forums there is no comparison in the volume since In Command is very problematic. The bigger issue is what is affected when you have a problem with one of them; In Command can shut you down and end a trip, the friction door can be worked around.
 
I think you are in a "nothing to lose" situation with Radwell. The part you have now is useless to you. They will either fix it or they won't, in which case you are no worse off (and you can ask your CC company for a chargeback in the worst case).

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the manual for that unit is here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1340155/In-Command-Jrvcs2.html?page=7#manual

It looks from this as if you want to jumper +12V from #81 to position #53 and/or #54 depending on how you want to run the heater. I'm not guaranteeing this information.

EDIT: To avoid possibly damaging the BCM too, I'd disconnect the wires from #53 and #54 first, and jumper to those wires away from the BCM board.

LHaven I appreciate your help on this, having the pin out for the water heater helped, I just made a simple lighted rocker switch, removed the water heater Gas trigger and used Pin 80 (81 I think is on the back and 80 is the main 12VDC supply) with an alligator clip and boom, hot water.





I am sorry, but it is posts like this that make me so thankful that my brand new Cougar was built without InCommand.

You actually have manual control of the slides and awnings in the event of the display controller going out, so you're not totally dead in the water. I understand some people prefer analog, digital control isnt for everyone these days, Im an old maintainer on the F16 so I dont fear challenges or electronics, you just have to employ the 2% rule. And where there is a will there is a way, even the analog switches fail from time to time. What bothers me is when a manufacturer offers no support, other than "you'll have to upgrade to our latest, instead of offering a repair avenue or some sort of tech support.
 
LHaven I appreciate your help on this, having the pin out for the water heater helped, I just made a simple lighted rocker switch, removed the water heater Gas trigger and used Pin 80 (81 I think is on the back and 80 is the main 12VDC supply) with an alligator clip and boom, hot water.







You actually have manual control of the slides and awnings in the event of the display controller going out, so you're not totally dead in the water. I understand some people prefer analog, digital control isnt for everyone these days, Im an old maintainer on the F16 so I dont fear challenges or electronics, you just have to employ the 2% rule. And where there is a will there is a way, even the analog switches fail from time to time. What bothers me is when a manufacturer offers no support, other than "you'll have to upgrade to our latest, instead of offering a repair avenue or some sort of tech support.


All well and good and understood. I was in IT, troubleshot boards at the component level so I'm not afraid of InCommand - I want simple and I want stuff to work....period. Nor do I want a complicated process to repair a known weak point when I'm out to have a relaxing experience. To each his own but my days of embracing new technology so I can troubleshoot a known problematic system out in the middle of nowhere are behind me. Having "cool" stuff for me went out about 55. :)
 
Another link for your Gen 1 In Command system:
https://in-command.net/in-command-jrvcs1/

You can build a board and route everything that went to the BCM to a control board with analog style switches instead of spending north of $2500 for a new BCM and Display for newer version... that puts you in the same "Boat" sooner or later regarding reliability and part availability
 
You actually have manual control of the slides and awnings in the event of the display controller going out, so you're not totally dead in the water. I understand some people prefer analog, digital control isnt for everyone these days, Im an old maintainer on the F16 so I dont fear challenges or electronics, you just have to employ the 2% rule. And where there is a will there is a way, even the analog switches fail from time to time. What bothers me is when a manufacturer offers no support, other than "you'll have to upgrade to our latest, instead of offering a repair avenue or some sort of tech support.

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE technology, but InCommand as you have observed is plagued with reliability issues, lack of customer support, inability to avoid obsolescence and leaves the average user high and dry when it fails. I can't imagine what my parents would do if they had this system in their motor home and it failed.

On a similar note, my first Harley (a 2007 CVO Ultra Classic) had a proprietary Harmon Kardon stereo system that incorporated all the standard stereo features, plus add-ons for XM satellite radio and a navigation system. When the display crapped out in 2010, they said it couldn't be fixed and wanted over $2,000 to replace it. I found a place called Iron Cross Audio that took my unit, fixed it, sent it back with a warranty and it worked great until we bought our next CVO in 2012. The unit continued to work for at least another 5 years until the person I sold the bike to traded in for a new one himself. So if a third party option is available, it is worth looking into.
 
Hey Fuzion33,

Did you send your JRVCS1 to Radwell? If so, what was the cost for repair and turnaround time? My unit just took a crap right before my Thanksgiving trip. I have a 2017 Fuzion 413 and I had to cancel because I didnt know how to turn on my water pump and water heater. just found this thread and clicked on link with manuals and I will try and figure that out, just in case I cant get display by New Years trip.
 
Hey Fuzion33,

Did you send your JRVCS1 to Radwell? If so, what was the cost for repair and turnaround time? My unit just took a crap right before my Thanksgiving trip. I have a 2017 Fuzion 413 and I had to cancel because I didnt know how to turn on my water pump and water heater. just found this thread and clicked on link with manuals and I will try and figure that out, just in case I cant get display by New Years trip.

The original poster hasn't been on the site since May so try sending a private message and if they have notifications turned on may see the notification and respond to you.
 
my 2016 Keystone Outback went to white screen of death 12/2024. ASA says I need a new system but have to buy it from a dealer. ugh...Think I am going to try installing it myself.
Was thinking of getting toggle switches or rocker switches and make my own setup to run what the DC did. I will try with jumpers for now to see if it will work........
My BCM has 3 swithes to take care of the electric stabilizers and both slides and awning....all I need is to see if I can extend wires from the BCM to manual switches, basically bypassing the DC. My BCM is under the closet floor in front of trailer....need a hole cut out as can only get 1 arm and head into the storage compartment.
Looking for any input to achieve this task or pay a lot of money to have a dealer install it at a couple bucks per hour times about 4 if no issues. Thanks George
 
Seriously, you could say much the same about any Keystone "innovation."
The "stay open" hinges that damage the door panels have cost me much more grief and money than inCommand ever has (zero). I never had a problem with the T-latches on my old rig, and wish I could have them back.

Not a big fan. If the breeze is blowing in the wrong direction I have to prop something against the door to keep it open anyway.
I have "some type of latch" for the door on my to do list.
Sorry if I helped derail the original thread.
:popcorn:
 
My Passport had a gas strut that held the door open 90 degrees, but I had to remove it to install my MorRyde solid steps, so I found some high strength exterior magnets that held the door flat to the side of the camper in even the highest of winds. My Cougar came with the friction hinges and after 1 full season of camping, we are already having problems with binding, and my wife can't stand the wind constantly blowing the door partway closed all the time. I am waiting for the winter weather to break and then will be either drilling out the nubs that create the friction action, or just replacing the friction hinges all together and getting another set of magnets to hold the door open flat against the side of the camper.
 
My Passport had a gas strut that held the door open 90 degrees, but I had to remove it to install my MorRyde solid steps, so I found some high strength exterior magnets that held the door flat to the side of the camper in even the highest of winds. My Cougar came with the friction hinges and after 1 full season of camping, we are already having problems with binding, and my wife can't stand the wind constantly blowing the door partway closed all the time. I am waiting for the winter weather to break and then will be either drilling out the nubs that create the friction action, or just replacing the friction hinges all together and getting another set of magnets to hold the door open flat against the side of the camper.


Can we have a look at what you're using? or planning on using?
Thx
 
I just ordered 2 replacement (non-friction) hinges from Lippert at $11.35 ea. The magnets are on Amazon here: https://a.co/d/036u9X4 They also have a different version here, but I can't vouch for them: https://a.co/d/8G6i1p7

This is a picture of the magnets I installed on my Passport.
 

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my 2016 Keystone Outback went to white screen of death 12/2024. ASA says I need a new system but have to buy it from a dealer. ugh...Think I am going to try installing it myself.
Was thinking of getting toggle switches or rocker switches and make my own setup to run what the DC did. I will try with jumpers for now to see if it will work........
My BCM has 3 swithes to take care of the electric stabilizers and both slides and awning....all I need is to see if I can extend wires from the BCM to manual switches, basically bypassing the DC. My BCM is under the closet floor in front of trailer....need a hole cut out as can only get 1 arm and head into the storage compartment.
Looking for any input to achieve this task or pay a lot of money to have a dealer install it at a couple bucks per hour times about 4 if no issues. Thanks George

You can try temporarily putting in rockers for systems, but this is what I found and it has worked for me, you're basically factory resetting the DC.

I figured perhaps an update from ASA electronics would work, maybe its just a corrupt file, upon downloading the update I noticed many of the files were APK, which meant the OS was Android/Linux. So I watched some Youtube videos on factory resetting phones or hardware that ran that software. I found that if you held the home button and one other button you could get into the sub-menus of the android system that would allow you to factory reset the DC. It worked! so from there I had to set up the DC as if it were just installed at the factory, reloading amount of slides, awnings, etc. Took a bit but was worth it to have the DC back. I also googled engineering passcodes which helped further modify the system to my liking, just my .02 to try it.

Hope it helps, let me know if you have any questions.
 
System off for several days. Pushed the on and home buttons at same time and screen lit up to white then blue so let go of switches and a screen appeared with a pic of a motor with a yield sign. No idea what that is so powered off the DC and restarted and everything returned to normal. Tried what I could turn on without turning any item winterized. It works..........shut system down and its been bitter cold here so will be trying startup again as temps rise to the 30's............it's Jan. 23 2025 so we will see if system works as it should. Still going to make up a box with switches as a back up.
 
Pushed the on and home buttons at same time and screen lit up to white then blue so let go of switches and a screen appeared with a pic of a motor with a yield sign. No idea what that is

My guess is it was a self-test diagnostic telling you that one of your motor controls (slide, awning, levers) failed the test.

The only icon I've seen is the Android robot during software updates, but that looks nothing like a motor or a yield sign.

No joy from the Troubleshooting Guide [LINK].
 
my 2016 Keystone Outback went to white screen of death 12/2024. ASA says I need a new system but have to buy it from a dealer. ugh...Think I am going to try installing it myself.
Was thinking of getting toggle switches or rocker switches and make my own setup to run what the DC did. I will try with jumpers for now to see if it will work........
My BCM has 3 swithes to take care of the electric stabilizers and both slides and awning....all I need is to see if I can extend wires from the BCM to manual switches, basically bypassing the DC. My BCM is under the closet floor in front of trailer....need a hole cut out as can only get 1 arm and head into the storage compartment.
Looking for any input to achieve this task or pay a lot of money to have a dealer install it at a couple bucks per hour times about 4 if no issues. Thanks George
Update Jan 30 2025............My controller has started up correctly today, 2nd time after I got the system to reboot itself. I did shut it down as I am still in winter mode here in Michigan. It seems to boot up and connect to the BCM faster then previous seasons. Now I found update software but not sure if I should attempt it or just leave the system as is cause it seems to work just fine. I know that if it aint broke dont fix it. Was thinking of going through all connections and snug them down just as a peace of mind thing. Got to find where the BCM is grounded to the negative side of power and see if that might need cleaning for a better grnd. As always I am open for any input that can help me not spend an absorbent amount of money to replace the BCM. Thanks George
 
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