Slide Timing

[chuckster57]

If only 1 corner is off, then you can adjust the rack end. One will be rigid and the other will have vertical bolts that allow for movement.

 

[workinonit]

So by that test it either jumped a tooth or possibly 2, for some reason the vertical adjustment got out of whack or something is going on under the Caroplast. I think I am correct that the vertical adjustment at the end of the rack would not only jack that end up but would also jack the bottom out.

 

[workinonit]

Stand by. Let me go take a pic.

 

[chuckster57]

You don’t adjust the “height” of the slide unless your on level ground, the trailer is level to the ground and you measure a different height from the ground to the slide front and back.

Height adjustments assume the slide is even and you change BOTH front and back equal amounts.

 

[workinonit]

So you are saying that adjustable bracket has vertical and horizontal adjustment? That just occurred to me when I was taking pics. I was thinking the rack and pinion was the adjustment.

 

[workinonit]

I see the two bolts on the end of the rack. Is that where it's adjusted? Obviously loosen them then how do I make the adjustment?

 

[workinonit]

Yea, I don't want to adjust the height. I don't think that's the issue. I do have the rig leveled though. It may need to be fine tuned but it's EQ leveled.

 

[JRTJH]

Maybe, if you look at adjustment a bit differently, it'll make more sense to you.

There are two adjustments for extension. Think of the gear pack as the course adjustment. That's when you move a "tooth or more than one tooth". Then there is a "fine adjustment" with the bolts on the end of the bracket.

Take a look at this pdf file and you will see the "two bolts" (#3) that are the "fine adjustment for extension".
There is also an adjustment for height on each ram. I would not consider any height adjustment unless you have a significant issue with the slide being higher on the front end or higher on the rear end of the slide. If it sits in the slide opening and is "even at the top on both ends" (within 3/8" or so) then I'd leave the height adjustments alone.... The "bracket bolts" are called the "carriage bolts" (#2) in the pdf and the actual height adjustment is made with the "jack bolts" (#1).

Your issue I believe, if you're saying it's too much if you move the gear pack a tooth, then the "fine adjustment" will probably get you close.

Now, for a "second potential issue" that is NOT RELATED to the adjustment above, if your slide is "jumping a tooth", as Chuck indicated in post #13, there may be an issue with the outer ram being bent/worn, allowing the inner ram to "jump a tooth" as pressure is applied to extend/retract the slide. This issue is typically not seen with a "slight out of time" as you're explaining your slide. Typically, if you have a "ram that is jumping a tooth", you'll know it by the "loud bang/jumping slide with a noise and a shudder". If you don't remember feeling and hearing something that caused you to ask, "What in the heck was that"... Then you likely don't have an issue with the wear tab on the outer ram tube.

 

[workinonit]

A tooth is what I would like to move the slide. I think it jumped a tooth when it got in a bind a while back, maybe 2. The adjustment I tried was rotating the entire driven gear a half turn which is probably close to 2 inches. Way too much. I think I'm going to pursue the tooth jumping and try to get that back tomorrow. If that goes sideways I will make a fine adjustment.

 

[workinonit]

Made a horizontal adjustment. May have to tweak it some but I think it will do. One think I did notice is that the window that makes the slide look out of time is actually mounted in the slide wall crooked.

 

[chuckster57]

I use a tape measure, numbers don’t lie.

 

[Viper02]

The only thing you will find under the coroplast is the two hydraulic cylinders, extend and retract lines and the frame brackets each of the slide cylinder end rods attach to

You can adjust the extend by using the jam it on the end of the cylinder rod outside at the slide bracket ..

But this will affect both ends … the timing bracket adjustment on the follower side can also be used to compensate somewhat

If the guide bar teeth to gearpack teeth jumped a tooth it would affect both extend and retract positions on that side …IMO

Image of my hyd slide cylinder mounts under the coroplast to give you and idea of what’s there

** show us some close up pics of the guide bar and gear pack teeth

 

[workinonit]

This was a one side adjustment. The drive side was fine. And honestly, most of what I was seeing was in that crooked window. Can't believe I never noticed that before. But regardless, it did need adjusting and now I know how to work on the slides. At least the hydro ones. Hopefully I don't have any issues with the Schwintek slide.

 

[Viper02]

Reading the info I and others have uploaded for you will go a long way in understanding how to adjust and maintain the hydraulic slides... They RARELY go out of adjustment unless something gets in the way causing a bind and maybe gearpack teeth and guide bar damage...

You have the INVERTED style Schwintek slides on that 2022 Alpine.. If you have not been maintaining them all along it would be a good idea to start doing so now...
.. Keep the drive tracks clean (upper and lower)
.. Keep the V rollers ( upper and lower ) clean
.. Check the drive bars on both sides (upper and lower) for any evidence of spur gear to drive bar damage ( such as galling metal )

Take the time now to learn where the controllers are for each of the schwintek slides, how to read the LED error code light on the controller, and how to electrically and manually override and operate

Also with the schwintek slides keep the slide motion button engaqed at least 3 to 5 seconds AFTER extending or retracting schwintek slides... this will help maintain slide out syncronization

Lippert support links for your schwintek slides -

In-Wall® Slide-Out | Lippert Customer Care Center

support.lci1.com

 

[workinonit]

I'm confused a bit about your statement that my slides are Schwintek. I obviously don't know much about these RVs except what I have learned but I could have sworn these were the Lippert hydraulic slides. Aren't the Schwintek slides electric? I have one of those on my bedroom slide. What I can tell you for sure is that my two big slides are hydraulic, they have 2 racks, one drive and one driven. I know this because I have cleaned them and I do lube them with dry lube.

 

[chuckster57]

If you look at the tag on the column of your bedroom slide there will be a V number and it may or may not be an inverted rack. The V tag will say either INV....or STD...

There is an active TSB regarding the INVerted rack and I have replaced 4 in the last 6 months. There is a time period that those are covered.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/technical_bulletins/in-wall/ccd-0006468d.pdf

 

[Viper02]

I referenced the Schwintek slides to enlighten you on potential other issues you will have down the road

The main slides on your model at thru the frame 2.5 x 2,5 hydraulic

The bedroom slide is in fact a Schwintek slide ( Inverted Style )

Previous PDFs and links I’ve posted will help you and will also be useful down the road

I know the Alpine Fifth wheel from front to back, top to bottom and don’t post erroneous info


Wishing you the best

 

[Viper02]

Regarding the BR Schwintek slide you might want to check the serial number of your Alpine against this NHTSA file.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2024/MC-11006594-0001.pdf

 

[chuckster57]

I can say that the time allowed for replacement is totally inadequate. Last one I had to actually cut the guide block at the shoe to remove the rack. The shoe wedged itself almost 45 degrees from its slot.

And in a conversation with a tech at Lippert they don’t offer a “rebuild” kit for the inverted system.

 

[workinonit]

Thanks for the info guys. I will check it and see. Also thanks for clearing up my confusion. So it sounds like having the inverted Schwintek is not a good thing?