Slide Timing

[workinonit]

On one side of my dining room slide the top seems to be all the way out but the bottom looks like it it maybe 1/2" from being all the way out. It's obvious because of the window in the slide. Is 1/2" enough to uncouple that side and time it? I haven't messed with these hydraulic slides and the rack and pinion yet but I would imagine a pin or something needs to be driven out and the gear would have to roll at least a half rotation to get the pin back in. I'm going to see what I can do with it tomorrow but just thought I would check and see if anyone had words of wisdom before I wade in.

 

[chuckster57]

You can adjust the “height” of the slide. Look at the outboard edge where the mechanism attaches. You should see a plate with bolts and a bolt that is vertical to change the position of the outside wall.

You can loosen the bolts holding the plate ( 3/4” I think) and then use the vertical bolt to raise or lower the edge.

Make sure the room is about 1/2 way extended, move both vertical bolts the same amount no more than 2 turns, tighten the plate bolts and then run the room in and then out.

In your case you want to raise the outside edge. It may take numerous adjustments, don’t try to get it all in one try.

 

[workinonit]

So Chuck, you think it's a height issue and not that the rack needs to extend a bit more? Here's pic of what sent me down this rabbit hole. So you are saying that raising this side up some will alleviate this difference?

 

[chuckster57]

What type of mechanism is it?

 

[workinonit]

Hydraulic rack and pinion.

 

[chuckster57]

Ok, then look at the hydraulic cylinder. There should be nuts on the outer portion that control the length of the extension. There should be space between the outer and inner nuts. You can move the inner nut out a bit to make the slide extend more.

 

[workinonit]

Yep. I got that. This issue is that this side isn't all the way out but the other side is perfect. So it appears I need to move one side out. I'm assuming I need to knock the pin out of the pinion gear and roll in 1/2 turn and reinstall the pin.

 

[chuckster57]

Its been a while but I believe one end has an adjustment on the tube to extend/retract the room on the tube. You might try that first.

 

[workinonit]

Thanks Chuck. I'm planning on climbing under there tomorrow morning and see what's up. I will let you know what I find.

 

[chuckster57]

ok post a pic so I can explain better

 

[workinonit]

Will do. It will be tomorrow. Gott head somewhere now.

 

[Viper02]

DO NOT mess with the gear packs.. To get your thru the frame hydraulic slide out adjusted evenly side to side you need to adjust the "Follower" side ... This is the Non Powered side of the slide... Look on that outer bracket and you will find that it is "Slotted"... There are Two bolts to loosen on that bracket and then you can adjust the follower side to match the driven side...

Read the section on "Room Synchronization" from this link:

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/technical-information-sheets/slideouts/ccd_0001941.pdf

Lippert video on how to adjust thru the frame hydraulic slide:

 

[chuckster57]

Just to muddy the waters: I have seen one side “jump” the gear pack. Usually the problem is the wear button on top or the outer tube has crowned. Repair is a shim or welding a horseshoe on the outer tube.

 

[Viper02]

I would start FIRST by inspecting the guide bar and gear pack teet on both driven and follower sid3s of the slide out

You are looking for any evidence of gear pack or guide bar teeth broken or really worn

Also inspect the guide bar slots on the frame where e@de guide bar slides in and out of looking for any evidence of upward bowed tube

Also look at the wear tabs you will find located on the frame side guide bar brackets and make sure they are in good shape

** if either the guide bar teeth or gear pack teeth are damaged you will FIRST NEED to identify the Gear pack and guide bar teeth count. This is so you can order the correct guide bar or gear pack if needed



Following PDFs will be worth saving and keeping for future

 

[workinonit]

I think mine jumped a tooth when something got jammed inside. I know that the follower is the adjustable side. It's the side that needs to be tuned. I looked today and see how to adjust it but Check's idea of raising that side could work as well. I had no idea it had a vertical adjustment. I will delve into this tomorrow and it WILL be in sync when I finish. I'll let y'all know what I do.

 

[workinonit]

I would start FIRST by inspecting the guide bar and gear pack teet on both driven and follower sid3s of the slide out

You are looking for any evidence of gear pack or guide bar teeth broken or really worn

Also inspect the guide bar slots on the frame where e@de guide bar slides in and out of looking for any evidence of upward bowed tube

Also look at the wear tabs you will find located on the frame side guide bar brackets and make sure they are in good shape

** if either the guide bar teeth or gear pack teeth are damaged you will FIRST NEED to identify the Gear pack and guide bar teeth count. This is so you can order the correct guide bar or gear pack if needed



Following PDFs will be worth saving and keeping for future

Hey Viper, appreciate the info and the attachments but the first 3 are all the same PDF. That's some good info and I don't mind retrieving it if you can tell me where to find it. I'm going to post what's going on with my slide.

 

[workinonit]

So I'm still not convinced I didn't jump a tooth. What I did today was not the issue so I'm off to the next clue. I removed the 1/4" bolt from the timing rod on the driven end and ran the slide out 1/2 turn. Well when I was doing it I realized it was way too much and it was. The slide looked good out but it didn't go all the way in. So I replaced that like it was. First pic is the driven end and the timing rod bolt I removed. Second pic is the gap between the slide face and the wall showing the 1/2" gap when the slide is out. Third pic is the window showing about how much it is out.

So now that I satisfied my curiosity on the timing there is one of 2 things going on. It either jumped a tooth or maybe 2 at some point or that side has dropped down and needs vertical adjustment. There are other things that could be wrong but most of them involve worn out components and that's just not the case on this rig. However, something could be going on up under that Caroplast that I can't see. I would really love to know what it looks like and how those parts go together. It doesn't appear this rack mechanism has dropped down any but I didn't measure it. I'm trying to come up with a plan of steps to take and eliminate the things that aren't wrong.

 

[chuckster57]

Ok, let’s recap. Your slide is flush top to bottom and side to side when retracted?

When fully extended, the top is flush front to back and the bottom is not? Or is the top flush and the whole bottom isn’t.

If the bottom isn’t flush what is the distance from the flange to the sidewall at both bottom corners?

 

[workinonit]

Retracted it visually looks fine. The issue is on the front bottom. When extended it is not all the way out. By that pic showing the inside front bottom corner it looks like it needs to extend further out by 1/4 to 1/2".

 

[workinonit]

I uncoupled the timing rod and rolled the front out 1/2 turn which was wayyyy too much.