rear bed slide 12v light not working

Bobf5761

New Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2021
Posts
4
Location
Arkadelphia
I have a two thousand eight keystone outback, 23KRS

Rear slide with queen bed out the back, 12v light does not work, i replaced leds, I have replaced fixture, and i've tested the wires all to the negative, the wire's coming out of the wall to the slider. Negative power, i can't seem to trace the wire unless i tear in to wall all my fuses are good. All other 12v systems work.

I tested the wire from the bottom of the slide right? That is supposed to connect to the wall. I have tested it from the outlet to the wires and I have continuity, but there is absolutely no power
 
Did the light work before or is this trailer new to you? If this is newly acquired trailer are you certain there's no wall switch anywhere that might control the light?I don't quite understand the last paragraph. Tested what outlet and continuity to what wires where?
 
....I don't quite understand the last paragraph. Tested what outlet and continuity to what wires where?

As in Pop-Ups of that same vintage, I think the light in the rear slide out "bunk" had a dome light that plugged into a jack. It resembled an ear phone jack only larger, or like a microphone jack plugged into an amplifier.

If that's the case then the OP is referring to the wall jack that the light plug plugs into. The 12 volt DC outlet is dead.

Bobf5761, in your breaker box, fuse box you probably have the small automotive fuses in addition to breakers. Those automotive breakers can be blow and still look good. If you have a tester, test each fuse and make sure they have continuity. Sometimes, those fuses can wiggle loose because of road vibration and bumps (it does happen). It's possible, one of the fuses is not seated right. Another problem could be oxidation. Pull each fuse and stick it back it. I've had oxidation on my fuses before and it can cause the DC circuit to not work.

Those are my "starting point" starting points. Good luck. Let us know what you are doing and what the outcome is. If these things don't work, someone will keep throwing ideas for you, things you might not have considered.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Did the light work before or is this trailer new to you? If this is newly acquired trailer are you certain there's no wall switch anywhere that might control the light?I don't quite understand the last paragraph. Tested what outlet and continuity to what wires where?
I've had it For 2 years, light never worked, no there is no wall switch, the continuity i'm talking about is the wires are from the light to under the side, that is where the wires stop. From what I researched, the wires were attached to a recoiled wire and plug into the wall with a snap. Type plug, it stretched 10 feet. So when the bed slid in... but that recoil wire is missing. I did find one that will work, but i' where that floats into the wall with that snap fitting, there is no power. I hope that I explained that well enough..
 
If you have no power at the receptacle, I would do as suggested and check the fuses in the power distribution panel.
 
First thing I would do is cut your search in 1/2. Check for voltage to the light bulb socket by testing from a KNOWN good ground to the socket positive contact. If no voltage is present then test from the known good ground to the bulb socket for continuity. If you have continuity but no positive voltage then the issue is in the positive wire. If no continuity to ground then neither wire is conductive.

Testing this way may eliminate some time in your investigation. With a good ground and no positive voltage start at the socket and work your way back. To identify where the power source is..... disconnect ALL power. Set meter to continuity and test front the bulb socket to the load side of each fuse. If you get continuity back to a fuse then the issue could be a bad fuse or the fuse isn't making good contact in the fuse holder.
Hope this helps.
 

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