Proper Hitch combo

[NH_Bulldog]

As opposed to using one that was underrated?

I have a poor sense of humor, sorry.

Anyway, it depends on how much higher rated you are talking about. Using 1,000 lb. bars for a 400 lb. tongue weight will likely stress the trailer frame and create a harsh ride for truck and trailer. The closer you get to the rated capacity of the bars with tongue weight will smooth the ride and if you go over the capacity of the bars, the ride will be bouncy and could cause control issues.

When I had my Passport, I started with 600 lb. bars (bars were rated as 600-800 lbs.). Then I scaled my trailer and found that my tongue weight was 925 lbs. so I went to the next higher set of bars (1,000-1,200 lbs.) and that was the sweet spot.

 

[eagleguy]

I noticed there are quite a few copies of the Andersen hitch on the web running at about $200. Has anyone tried these?

 

[eagleguy]

 

[Silverado21]

IMO don’t waste your money on a WDH with chains of any kind. Don’t waste your money on those anti sway bars that mount to mini trailer balls. Do your research. Talk to people. Read reviews. Invest in a good 4 point WDH with solid trunion bars. Or you can bite the bullet and purchase a Hensley hitch. They guarantee their hitches not to sway or they will give your money back. They also have a lifetime warranty on them.

 

[Peto]

This is the hitch I settled on and really like it. https://www.towuniverse.com/curt-tr...88abK-sVOBzr1ZznPePVuTLtdZVgkdHBoCSH8QAvD_BwE

Only down side is the big azz knuckle with the ball is a bit heavy.... Otherwise, no complaints.

 

[sourdough]

This is the hitch I settled on and really like it. https://www.towuniverse.com/curt-tr...88abK-sVOBzr1ZznPePVuTLtdZVgkdHBoCSH8QAvD_BwE

Only down side is the big azz knuckle with the ball is a bit heavy.... Otherwise, no complaints.

I used a Hitch Grip like in the link below. It helped a lot in carrying the head for my Equalizer;

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...MI8sCNnueWiwMV2nJ_AB2Ysx_tEAQYBiABEgJzfPD_BwE

 

[JRTJH]

Just a comment about the Hensley hitch and the ProPride hitch... They are great at stopping sway "AT THE ARTICULATION" (hitch ball)....

They do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to reduce sidewall blast induced sway"...

If you've ever driven a 40' motorhome in severe crosswinds, and found yourself fighting the steering wheel to try to keep that "all one piece in one line vehicle" in a single lane, you know what I'm talking about. You can readily find yourself "half a lane from where the gust started" and then, when the gust stops (like going under an overpass) you move back that "half a lane" even if there's another vehicle sharing that lane at the time !!!!!

Yes, Hensley and ProPride do stop "hitch ball sway" but they do nothing to combat crosswind movement and in lighter rigs, "bow-wave pushing" caused by oncoming or passing "larger vehicles".

When a "one box motorhome" is being pushed around the highway, an articulating hitch sway reduction system won't stop that kind of movement either.....

ADDED: In order to hopefully not get "rebuttals from people with a different perspective on that type hitch" I'm NOT addressing sway at the articulation (hitch ball) I'm addressing fighting the steering wheel and vehicle lane control in high crosswinds... There have been people who bought Hensley or PP hitches and thought that $2500-4000 hitch would give them "one hand on the steering wheel confident control" in all situations.... They don't do that and are not intended to do that....

 

[Peto]

I used a Hitch Grip like in the link below. It helped a lot in carrying the head for my Equalizer;

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...MI8sCNnueWiwMV2nJ_AB2Ysx_tEAQYBiABEgJzfPD_BwE

At home, not a problem, I built a roller cart out of scrap parts. It slide right out of the receiver and I can push it around on the cart. At camp grounds when using the TV for day trips I just pull it out and drop it below the trailer tongue and then secure with a cable lock ( I really wish I did not have to lock it..).

 

[ADQ K9]

I have the same hitch as Peto, (see my signature) and it has been trouble free.
My trailer does have a heavy TW when fully loaded with propane and water and a GVW of 8800# My truck is over 8K empty, So the" tail will never wag the dog."
I my set up has treated my good in crosswinds, passing tractor trailers on two lane. It provides feed back but no sway issues. I live in a cul-de-sac so I drop the bars before I enter and make the u-turn ad the end. I usually drop them before backing into a campsite also.
Does the OP have a power tongue jack? I have seen some smaller trailers without.That makes all the difference

 

[Peto]

I've never dropped my bars when backing in or turning in tight spaces. Thjey creek and groan a bit but no impact to the set up. When I first got the hitch I was concerned about tight turns (bars falling out) but I cranked it over as tight as I could get and got out and looked. No issues appeared.

I did pinch my plug cord between the bars when new. Now I route it through the hitch pin and no issues.

 

[eagleguy]

Just did a 500 mile trip without a WDH and using just one sway bar mounted with Riv Nuts and air bags at 40 psi. Tundra 1/2 ton towed perfecty, no issues with anything, worked as hoped, actually better.

 

[johnmyster]

For WDHs using bars, the rating corresponds to the stiffness of the bars.

Can you adjust a 500# "tongue weight" equalizer hitch model, for instance, to provide 200# of front axle weight return? Sure. Can you adjust a 1200# "tongue weight" equalizer hitch model to provide the SAME 200# of front axle weight return. Also yes.

The difference will be that as the relative attitude between the truck and trailer (bumps, dips, etc.) changes, the more flexible bars will provide more constant front axle loading. The stiffer bars will increase and decrease their WD loading more rapidly. The loading peaks will be more severe. On-off switch vs constant loading.

There is some thought in the community that excessively stiff WDH setups contribute to trailer tongue damage, front end separation, etc. The appeal of "too stiff" bars is that for a given amount of WD, there is less displacement required when hitching. Thus, you can usually set the bars with the jack and not need to get out the tensioning bar.

Personally, for pickup trucks (that need less WD as a percentage of tongue weight) I like to see WDH setups that are on the smaller side for a given tongue weight.

If your wife doesn't like the trailer induced bouncing, you need stiffer shocks, not more springs (which is what airbags and WDH give you.) Don't let the F350 owners in the community insult your tundra. It is plenty of truck for your camper. ~500 pound of tongue on a full sized pickup with a single axle camper - you should not be overly stressed about WDH configuration. Put some weight in the bed of the truck and enjoy your trips.

Regarding the Andersen WDH, I fail to realize how forward force acting on the frame brackets effectively translates into WD torque without simply rotating/pulling/sliding the brackets. There is a reason that equalizer model hitches are the industry standard. I say that as a person that really liked his Andersen Ultimate 5W hitch for simplicity and effectiveness of design.

 

[eagleguy]

For WDHs using bars, the rating corresponds to the stiffness of the bars.

Can you adjust a 500# "tongue weight" equalizer hitch model, for instance, to provide 200# of front axle weight return? Sure. Can you adjust a 1200# "tongue weight" equalizer hitch model to provide the SAME 200# of front axle weight return. Also yes.

The difference will be that as the relative attitude between the truck and trailer (bumps, dips, etc.) changes, the more flexible bars will provide more constant front axle loading. The stiffer bars will increase and decrease their WD loading more rapidly. The loading peaks will be more severe. On-off switch vs constant loading.

There is some thought in the community that excessively stiff WDH setups contribute to trailer tongue damage, front end separation, etc. The appeal of "too stiff" bars is that for a given amount of WD, there is less displacement required when hitching. Thus, you can usually set the bars with the jack and not need to get out the tensioning bar.

Personally, for pickup trucks (that need less WD as a percentage of tongue weight) I like to see WDH setups that are on the smaller side for a given tongue weight.

If your wife doesn't like the trailer induced bouncing, you need stiffer shocks, not more springs (which is what airbags and WDH give you.) Don't let the F350 owners in the community insult your tundra. It is plenty of truck for your camper. ~500 pound of tongue on a full sized pickup with a single axle camper - you should not be overly stressed about WDH configuration. Put some weight in the bed of the truck and enjoy your trips.

Regarding the Andersen WDH, I fail to realize how forward force acting on the frame brackets effectively translates into WD torque without simply rotating/pulling/sliding the brackets. There is a reason that equalizer model hitches are the industry standard. I say that as a person that really liked his Andersen Ultimate 5W hitch for simplicity and effectiveness of design.

Air bags and the single anti sway bar did the trick. Thanks