Picking the right WDH for this Combination.

Desertdave-KEY

Advanced Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2021
Posts
52
Location
Marana
I'm shopping for WDH for my TT and want to make sure my math is correct. This is what I have..

2002 F150 Supercrew 2x4 5.4l, factory installed owing package class III hitch, 6600# GVRW package
Curb Weight 4758 lbs
2705lb Front Axle
2053lb Rear Axle
1842lb Cargo capacity
GCWR 14,600lb (if I read the chart right)

Keystone Bullet Crossfire 1700BH
Dry Weight 3377lb
Cargo capacity 1323lb
GTWR 4700lb

Factory Installed Hitch
Gross Trailer weight 5000lbs Max tongue weight 500lb
W/Weight Distribution Hitch
Gross Trailer weight 8700lbs Max tongue weight 870lbs

Technically I probably could tow this little trailer without a WDH. But I want to be as safe as possible. My math tells me that I need a WDH for a 500-700lb tongue weight.
4700lbs x 10%=470lb tongue weight
4700lbs x 15%=705lb tongue weight

With all that said, I will never travel with full tanks, I have a composting toilet and will usually fill water tanks just before getting to my destination or at the park itself. It is just me and my wife as far as cargo goes. And a Predator 3500 watt inverter in the bed of the truck.
Should I go to the higher end and get a 700lb WDH? Or will it be too much?

Dave
towing chart.jpg
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Well, I am highly biased when it comes to Weight Distribution Hitches, considering I've had a Reese and then later an Equal-i-zer. I suggest the Equal-i-zer 4 point sway control weight distribution hitch. They come in 3 different "weights" see their web-site Click here.

I do not recommend the original Reese style hitch chains attached to the bars and then you count the links on the chains type system. Why? Because then you'll need to get the stand-alone sway bar too. With the Equal-i-zer, you get the built in Anti-Sway system as part of it. No extra parts to deal with.

Once you have the system properly set up, it's very, very easy hitching and unhitching. Others have their favorites too, but this one is very easy to use.
 
The good thing here is that you have an older F150. After they changed to the aluminum body in 2015, the suspension got softer and towing performance got worse. Anyway, having towed our Passport TT with a 2015 F150, I would strongly recommend a weight distribution hitch with anti-sway. I think your math all works out otherwise, but having the peace of mind of the right hitch is priceless.

The Equal-i-zer 4-point weight distribution with integrated sway control is very highly regarded. I used an Eaz-Lift Trekker for ours which is very similar in performance and it towed our Passport great. Even after we upgraded our truck to our current F250, we still used the same hitch setup just for the stability it provided until we bought a 5th wheel.
 
You are considering the right things when it comes to weights and safety. Definitely like the WD vs nonWD hitch for you . Re the 700 lbs vs smaller, I have found that the 10% hitch weight estimate tends to underestimate the real world tongue weight. Of course things vary by loading but I have found my actual to range in the 12-14% area depending on how I load. If you have a chance for actual weighing I would do it , but I would lean toward the higher range weight distribution.

For me I use old school Eaz-lift round bars with the chains and the separate sway bar. I don’t mind the setup and once it is dialed in it is easy to adjust the level of weight distribution via the number of links engaged. It is a lower end design compared to the others mentioned but it has worked well for me over the years. Whichever unit you use, take the time to get it adjusted to your weights and rig and it will make your towing more enjoyable.
 
I use my old Reese Straight Line hitch. It adds a knukel on each bar saddle creating a triangle. No extra attachments to install or remove when hitching. It's worked very well for me and with my Husky 4500 lb electric tongue jack with remote I can hitch/ unhitch in about 3 min.
 
I've had Reese, and I have EZ lift and Equalizer, they all work well. The Reese I had was the design with sway control where the bars rode in stirrups, that was years ago. My EZ lifts are the basic chain design and if desired you need a sway control. The Equalizer is new to me this year, came with the used TT I bought. I like the design with sway built in it. It's easy to set up and connect and you don't need any tools or pipes to hook it up.
 
I rarely have to use pipe to get the bars in the saddle. With the tongue jack I can lift the trailer and back of the truck high enough that I can set the bars in by hand and link the chains. If I were buying today I think I'd go with the 4 point sway control which is much the same regardless of the Brand.
 
The good thing here is that you have an older F150. After they changed to the aluminum body in 2015, the suspension got softer and towing performance got worse. Anyway, having towed our Passport TT with a 2015 F150, I would strongly recommend a weight distribution hitch with anti-sway. I think your math all works out otherwise, but having the peace of mind of the right hitch is priceless.

The Equal-i-zer 4-point weight distribution with integrated sway control is very highly regarded. I used an Eaz-Lift Trekker for ours which is very similar in performance and it towed our Passport great. Even after we upgraded our truck to our current F250, we still used the same hitch setup just for the stability it provided until we bought a 5th wheel.
Thanks for the great info! I seen this one at Etrailer with sway control, that I think will fit the bill for me and its $300 cheaper than the Equalizer one. This trailer is only 17' and I think it will be fairly easy to tow. At least I know my math was right on.
wdh.jpg
 
One other question, if my total cargo capacity is 1842lbs for the truck and my actual tongue weight measures out to be lets say 600lbs, do I deduct that from my cargo carry ability? Which would essentially drop it down to 1242lbs?

Dave
 
From your vehicle's rated cargo capacity, you would deduct the tongue weight, the weight of the hitch itself, the weight of any item/accessory installed on your truck that wasn't on it when it rolled off the assembly line (this also means anything you or the dealer or a previous owner might have added like mudflaps, a license plate frame, a bedliner, offroad lights, a tonneau cover, window vent shades, etc.). Then deduct the weight of the passenger (I believe that Ford allows 150 lbs. for the driver), plus deduct anything you carry in the truck like a generator, gas can, pets, firewood, bicycles, a sewer tote, extra water cans, etc.
 
That "published" curb weight is never exact once you put the license plate on it and the registration card in the glove box. I know that's extreme but it is in fact true. The only way to know the truth is to go to a scale and weigh it.
 
From your vehicle's rated cargo capacity, you would deduct the tongue weight, the weight of the hitch itself, the weight of any item/accessory installed on your truck that wasn't on it when it rolled off the assembly line (this also means anything you or the dealer or a previous owner might have added like mudflaps, a license plate frame, a bedliner, offroad lights, a tonneau cover, window vent shades, etc.). Then deduct the weight of the passenger (I believe that Ford allows 150 lbs. for the driver), plus deduct anything you carry in the truck like a generator, gas can, pets, firewood, bicycles, a sewer tote, extra water cans, etc.
Thanks, I'm gonna hit the CAT scale this weekend to get some numbers.

Dave
 
Thanks for the great info! I seen this one at Etrailer with sway control, that I think will fit the bill for me and its $300 cheaper than the Equalizer one. This trailer is only 17' and I think it will be fairly easy to tow. At least I know my math was right on.View attachment 1321851
Some additional thoughts;
I know you want to get by on the hitch as cheaply as possible but realize the hitch above is only a 2 point sway control vs the Equalizer 4 point (which I HIGHLY recommend).

Although it seems like it's a small trailer at 21' 5" (spec sheet) that's a lot of sail behind a 1/2 ton truck. Considering the truck is 23 years old all of the suspension is suspect when considering throwing the stresses of the trailer plus all the pushes and twists from wind gusts, semis etc. Trying to go minimal on the wdh/sway is not a good idea. Not only are they a means to connect the trailer to the truck but they play a VERY significant role in your safety. I can say from experience, even with a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, there was a noticeable difference when I took a jaunt with my bumper pull without the wdh (60 miles) - I would never do it with a 1/2 ton.

Another thought would be tires - what brand, size and load range do you have? If you are going to pull an RV of any size you need to have LT tires on the truck. Just some additional thoughts that cross my mind.
 
Should a WDH be disconnected when driving in the city, such as approaching driveways to gas stations that have an incline or just having to make a sharp u turn in a gas station to pull up to a pump. I've read stories about peoples trailer tongues getting folded up due to inclines.

Dave
 
I've also been using the Andersen no sway hitch for about 6 years now. I did the upgrade to the newest version about 4 years ago. It is easy to install, rated up 14,000 lbs and really made a huge difference from the iron bar type of WDH. Until weighs in around 58 lbs. Towed a Cougar 21 RBRWE and towing a Cougar 24RKRWE. The only real maintence is installing a new nylon bushing which is the sway control. Bushings usually free as a lifetime warranty.

The trailer doesn't spin on the ball, the ball turns with the trailer. Worth checking it out. Biggest complaint I've heard is they are expensive.
 

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