Passport “solar”

[bdkk]

So I have a 2025 passport 170 bh.
Says it solar prepped/ready
On the roof it has the connector house.
I’m asking if anyone knows where those said wires run to?

I know in one of the storage it has two boxes that says

I found somewhere online that said it could be located behind the “outlet” beside the queen bed.

So I removed said outlet and there is 2 sets of 2 black and white uncut wires and 2 wires that looks to be covered to a brown paper bag type

I’m trying to figure out if this is it and which is negative and positive

I plan to test with a meter but also wanted others input who could possibly have/is dealing with the same thing

Thanks

 

[JRTJH]

Welcome to the forum. Solar systems in Keystone RV's can be any one of five different types of systems... They are "solar Ready", SolarFlex 200-220, SolarFlex 400-440i, SolarFlex 600-660i-L and SolarFlex 1320i-L. It sounds like your trailer is "Solar ready" which means it has nothing on the roof except a port and nothing in the passthrough except two panels with wires behind them. Keystone's website has a lot of great information about the different packages and goes into great detail to explain what's included, where it's located and how to upgrade "when the owner is ready"...

You can locate those "Keystone guides" here: SolarFlex Ready: Keystone’s Scalable Solar Prep for 2024 RV Models and SolarFlex Ready

I'd urge you to take a look atthe information which Keystone has provided, compare it to what you see "ON YOUR TRAILER" and then ask about the things you don't understand or things you still have questions about.... There are, as I said, five different versions of the SolarFlex system and each of them is "different enough" that someone with one of the other systems is going to not be looking at what you see on your trailer.... That's an easy way to "get wrong information" that won't work in your system....

 

[bdkk]

Welcome to the forum. Solar systems in Keystone RV's can be any one of five different types of systems... They are "solar Ready", SolarFlex 200-220, SolarFlex 400-440i, SolarFlex 600-660i-L and SolarFlex 1320i-L. It sounds like your trailer is "Solar ready" which means it has nothing on the roof except a port and nothing in the passthrough except two panels with wires behind them. Keystone's website has a lot of great information about the different packages and goes into great detail to explain what's included, where it's located and how to upgrade "when the owner is ready"...

You can locate those "Keystone guides" here: SolarFlex Ready: Keystone’s Scalable Solar Prep for 2024 RV Models and SolarFlex Ready

I'd urge you to take a look atthe information which Keystone has provided, compare it to what you see "ON YOUR TRAILER" and then ask about the things you don't understand or things you still have questions about.... There are, as I said, five different versions of the SolarFlex system and each of them is "different enough" that someone with one of the other systems is going to not be looking at what you see on your trailer.... That's an easy way to "get wrong information" that won't work in your system....

Thanks for the response
And I have look at everything I was given at time of purchase
And it’s basically a general book with everything you just said above

I’m going to call where I got it from and see if they can give me anything specific

Before I just install and wire it as if it’s a blank canvas

 

[bdkk]

Thanks for the response
And I have look at everything I was given at time of purchase
And it’s basically a general book with everything you just said above

I’m going to call where I got it from and see if they can give me anything specific

Before I just install and wire it as if it’s a blank canvas

 

[NH_Bulldog]

The wires from the roof port run to the space behind the cover that says future charge controller location. Those wires should be two single conductor green sheathed wires.

 

[bdkk]

The wires from the roof port run to the space behind the cover that says future charge controller location. Those wires should be two single conductor green sheathed wires.

Thank you for responding,

When I take that panel off
It’s nothing there no hole drilled on anything
Unless it’s behind it and I have to do that myself

Behind the future inverter panel its this type of wire but

 

[bdkk]

Thank you for responding,

When I take that panel off
It’s nothing there no hole drilled on anything
Unless it’s behind it and I have to do that myself

Behind the future inverter panel its this type of wire but it isn’t cut or anything

This is from the outlet beside the queen bed

View attachment 978846

 

[NH_Bulldog]

That outlet has nothing to do with the solar power system. You might want to stop now before you go too much further down the wrong road.

 

[bdkk]

That outlet has nothing to do with the solar power system. You might want to stop now before you go too much further down the wrong road.

Ok so after going through every nook and cranny
I’ve found that it is indeed already pre wired for solar panels
The green and black is what goes to the charge controller

I just need to figure out what this yellow wire is for
It says location for future inverter
But that wire doesn’t pull out the solar one did

 

[NH_Bulldog]

That is your 110v inverted AC outlet loop (yellow Romex). If you were to install an inverter, that wire is cut and one end goes to the inverter AC in and the other goes to the inverter AC out. If you were to cut it now, all the outlets on that circuit would be dead.

On mine, that loop feeds the outlets on each side of the bed, the bedroom TV, the livingroom TV, one kitchen outlet, the outdoor refrigerator outlet and an outlet in the passthrough compartment

 

[bdkk]

Ok so I would cut that in the middle
Thus exposing the three wires and connect them

What inverter would you recommend?
I have a passport 170bh 12v

 

[NH_Bulldog]

If you chose to install an inverter, it should be sized for what you intend to operate. I installed a Progressive Dynamics PD1620A (2000w) with a built-in automatic transfer switch and ability to pass power through when on shore power, and includes a remote panel that can be installed inside the camper. For my purposes, 2,000w was the right size (coffee maker, and outdoor refrigerator).

 

[bdkk]

Ok appreciate the feedback back may get a 2-3 depending on which one has the monitor I can put inside.

 

[JRTJH]

Ok appreciate the feedback back may get a 2-3 depending on which one has the monitor I can put inside.

That yellow ROMEX is 12 gauge. It is rated for 20 amps@120VAC. A 2000 watt inverter is rated at 16.66 amps. A 3000 watt inverter is rated at 25 amps. If you do install a 3000 watt inverter, to maintain electrical safety and not potentially overload that 12 gauge ROMEX, typically a 2000 watt inverter is maximum. If you do decide to install a 3000 watt inverter, you ought to consider rewiring that circuit with 10 gauge ROMEX designed to carry that kind of load safely.... Remember, the purpose of installing an inverter is to be able to have "shore power" in the boonies where there is no power available.... In the boonies there also is no fire department to respond to a "smoking wall in a trailer and usually no cell phone service to dial 911.... Safety is travel trailers is pretty important the way they're intended to be used. Not installing "equipment that overloads a circuit" is a vital part of staying safe...

 

[bdkk]

Yes I ended up going with the Renogy 2k
Has the monitor/on and off switch for inside and built in automatic transfer

 

[NH_Bulldog]

Just be aware that the Renogy inverter is more like a UPS (uninterruptible power supply). While it does have automatic transfer, the inverter has to be powered on all the time, even when connected to shore power. If the inverter is off, shore power will not pass through to the outlets, and the inverter will not automatically transfer to pull from the batteries if shore power goes out. So the inverter has to be powered on and running 100% of the time. If you are okay with that, no problem, but many people are not aware of the limitations (I call them design flaws) of the Renogy inverter.

I had bought the Renogy inverter and bench tested various scenarios in my shop before I installed it in my camper. Once I found out the limitations of the unit and confirmed with Renogy tech support that they designed it this way, I returned the unit and bought the one I have now. The PD inverter is less than $100 more than the Renogy. When I received the Progressive Dynamics unit, I did the same bench testing and it works exactly as I had hoped and wanted it to, which is also the same function as the even more expensive Xantrex Freedom X 2000 inverter that Keystone installs at the factory. One other thing to consider is that the Renogy has limitations on where and how the inverter is oriented when mounted.

Again, it's up to you. I just thought you should be aware that the inverter may not function like you want.

 

[bdkk]

Where would be the best place to install mini breakers and a cut off switch for the panels?