New Solar

[curtiscapk-]

Guys I have a new 100 AH Lifepo4 battery to replace the stock FLA. I'll be adding another one before our Sept trip to Yellowstone. I just ordered a 200w solar panel to get started. The camper has an external port for a panel in the convenience center. We don't want to deal with setting that up all the time, so we went roof mounted, My question is Without the normal pathway using the fridge vent (ours is 12 volt). Where is the common place to run the wire from roof to controller? Here is my idea; I hate having exposed wire inside, but will use a white loom to try and hide it. My plan is to come in to the bedroom ceiling then over to the closet into the closet then down into the pass through. I hope my pics make sense. My controller will be in passthrough and inverter on the side of the bed, (used for TV, Micro)

Let me know you're thoughts.

 

[chuckster57]

I used to open a wall, drill from the inside. Run the wires and reattach the wall.

 

[NH_Bulldog]

We had a Passport 240BH with the exact layout. If it were me, I would come down from the roof into the top of the entertainment center and then down to the floor inside the dividing wall/entertainment center framing and jump across the short span on the floor between the dividing wall and the bed base, and then through the bed base and into the passthrough.

 

[curtiscapk-]

I used to open a wall, drill from the inside. Run the wires and reattach the wall.

We had a Passport 240BH with the exact layout. If it were me, I would come down from the roof into the top of the entertainment center and then down to the floor inside the dividing wall/entertainment center framing and jump across the short span on the floor between the dividing wall and the bed base, and then through the bed base and into the passthrough.

Great idea! we put in a king size mattress so you cant even see floor. Hell I may just run it in the bedroom on the outside of that wall! The doors are almost always open so it won't really matter as far as seeing the wires. I'll post pics in a couple weeks. I ran my garage beer fridge 6 CF on the inverter for 2 days before having to charge up the battery. Hoping to get 2 days and 2 nights on 2 batteries. we'll see how the test goes on 1 battery.

Thanks!

 

[JRTJH]

Before you get too far along with location of the solar panel and wiring to the "typical battery storage area on the A-frame behind the propane tanks, do you plan on doing any cold weather trailer use??? If so, are you aware of the temperature limitations for charging lithium batteries??? Plus, if there is any "security concern" with expensive batteries "out in the open", have you considered relocating the batteries to the passthrough or even inside the trailer where they are out of sight and in a warm place ???

While the trailer tongue is a "logical place for FLA batteries" it's not always the best location for lithium replacements, depending on how you plan to use the trailer and where it might be stored...

 

[curtiscapk-]

I'm debating on passthru or a big metal lock box bolted to frame. Our season is normally March to Oct.

Thanks for the thought!

 

[curtiscapk-]

My kit came in! My wife said a was pacing like a kid on Xmas!

I hooked it all up thinking the lamp lights would charge. I was wrong so I got my 25 year old halogen work light that's as bright a mini sun out. Bing the minute I turned it on the solar panel on controller came on. It's a wpm that came with kit but I have a mppt coming.

 

[rlh1957]

Guys I have a new 100 AH Lifepo4 battery to replace the stock FLA. I'll be adding another one before our Sept trip to Yellowstone. I just ordered a 200w solar panel to get started. The camper has an external port for a panel in the convenience center. We don't want to deal with setting that up all the time, so we went roof mounted, My question is Without the normal pathway using the fridge vent (ours is 12 volt). Where is the common place to run the wire from roof to controller? Here is my idea; I hate having exposed wire inside, but will use a white loom to try and hide it. My plan is to come in to the bedroom ceiling then over to the closet into the closet then down into the pass through. I hope my pics make sense. My controller will be in passthrough and inverter on the side of the bed, (used for TV, Micro)

Let me know you're thoughts.

Like had been posted already… open up a wall, the panels easy to open up. Then drill up through the roof. Then drill into basement.
(A stock system comes from roof down through a wall space routing to the basement or charge controller location near the batteries. Pull wire gauge larger than what you need to enable upgrading adding more panels in the future.

 

[440scout]

Yes, a single 200 watt solar panel can provide around 10 amps so a 30 amp charge controller has room for more panels. If you're using 2 batteries, that 10 amps will provide 5 amps to each battery so adding a couple more panels will make a big difference in keeping your batteries charged. I would use size 10awg solar wire but 8awg is available, too. I got mine from Amazon.

 

[curtiscapk-]

Thanks! Starting install next weekend.

 

[curtiscapk-]

It's installed! Was a weird feeling drilling a hole in the roof! We have all aluminum rafters and studs so I just stayed outside the walls. Fridge ran for 24 hours off the 100 AH lifepo without solar hooked up and still had 25% left. It was pulling around 5 amps according to BMS. I didn't get to the inverter but have it to use in an emergency if needed. Once the solar was hooked up and in full sun I was adding about 2-3 amps over the fridge pull adding 2% charge per hour. When I got under the camper my underbelly patch at wire location had just fallen off! Everything was nice and clean so I got lucky. One place I don't pre-inspect is the belly, now I will.

I think I'm right in line with what it should be but still learning. Another battery and 200 W panel coming before Yellowstone trip. We're doing single night boondocks just to sleep. Then 2 nights at the Badlands Wall. Then 2 at FHU site at W. Yellowstone. Let me know your thoughts.

 

[curtiscapk-]

more pics

 

[NH_Bulldog]

Looks nice, glad it worked out!

The last of the snow melted off my camper roof yesterday, so I am going to head up this week and finish installing my 2nd 220w panel. Fortunately, the existing roof port and wiring is sized to add a second panel, so I just need to attach the new panel and be good to go.

What I did for the belly on my last camper that had to be opened to make a floor repair, was to use an awl (or Phillips head screwdriver) to punch a series of holes around the perimeter of the hole with similar holes punches around the flap itself. Then I used zip-ties and "stitched" the opening closed. Try as I might, I could never get gorilla tape, or FlexMend tape, or scrimm tape to hold for any length of time.

 

[curtiscapk-]

do you know what your Amps were coming in off your 220 panel? Just wondering if mine were in line?

Yeah you can see where they had 4 screws on the patch over the flap surprised it lasted 2 years. Zip ties sound great!

 

[JRTJH]

On my trailer, Keystone installed a 18" x18" COROPLAST patch over the location of the slide motor. They DID NOT cut a hole under that patch, but "marked the correct location" by installing the patch. When I needed access to the slide motor, I removed the patch, cut the access flap slightly smaller than the patch, then when I closed things up, I used zip ties in the corners of the flap, taped the cuts with Gorilla tape, then reinstalled the patch with Keystone's 4 screws, as a "mechanical protective cover" over my flap and tape... It's still in place with no leaks and that's about 7 or 8 years ago that I cut the flap. It looks like Keystone installed a similar "patch" on your trailer. I'd reinstall it after you get things sealed up just to protect your work.