Looking for Weight Distribution Hitch

[JRTJH]

This comment is helpful.....especially the first sentence "regardless of the TT or TV some sort of anti-sway system is recommended". This continues to be my question. I have a F350 4X4 with an auto airlift system (automatically adjust bed height to maintain level). When I connect my TT (7,600 GVWR, 605 tongue weight) it does not sag under the weight. So do I need a Weight distribution hitch? Sounds like you say yes. What I'm really interested in is sway control.

You might want to do a bit more "weight verification"... The specs you quoted are for an EMPTY trailer as shipped from the factory. That 605 pound tongue weight has NO propane in the tanks, NO battery in the battery tray, NO optional equipment ordered/installed in the trailer and NO owner installed equipment, camping supplies, food, tools, water/sewer hoses, chocks, blocks, firewood, grill, chairs, galley pots, pans, dishes, no towels, bedding, pillows or the "hundreds of pounds of other stuff you'll load in the trailer. Expect your trailer to grow weight substantially.

Then there's the receiver limitations on your truck.
Depending on whether you are using the 2.5" receiver with or without a 2" adapter sleeve, the weight limits are different. Then there's the "tongue weight max with/without a W/D hitch.

As an example, here's my receiver max weight limits. As you can see, using a 2" sleeve, the MAX trailer weight WITHOUT a W/D hitch is 6000 pounds and the MAX tongue weight is 600 pounds. So, regardless of whether that receiver is on a F150, F250 or F350, with or without an "optional automatic leveling system" you would be over the receiver's maximum weight rating using an adapter sleeve to tow that trailer unless you use a weight distribution hitch. And, even if you are not using a 2" adapter sleeve, the maximum "weight carrying limit" is 850 pounds, and your Coleman 1905RB "loaded to travel tongue weight" will likely be much closer to 1000 pounds than it will be to 605 pounds.

So, depending on "what equipment you're using to connect the receiver to the hitch to the trailer, you may or may not be over the maximum weight limits. Then there's the matter of sway control. You can't "add a "mechanical sway control to a "cheap 2" hitch stinger"... You need a special adapter type hitch with the hole/mount needed for the sway control PLUS you'll need to drill holes in your trailer tongue A-frame along with limiting the ability to back the trailer without removing that sway device...

So, can it be done to tow with out a W/D hitch? Yep, but it's not just a matter of "I've got an F350 so I'm good"... Depending on HOW you're using the truck receiver, you may very well be violating the weight limitations of the receiver and still not able to connect a "cheap sway control bar" to the hitch ball stinger....

Here's a photo of my receiver limitations:

 

[myrvtravels]

Hi, does anyone happen to have advice on which weight distribution hitch to get? Seems like this is quite a complicated topic. I found a couple of products online (here for example: https://mycamperfriend.com/weight-distribution-hitch/ ) but still not clear on what's the best. I know, there may be no default answer but would still appreciate any thoughts.

Regards,
Clark

I've used the Equalizer hitch and gave been very happy with, used it with my Ember 26RB. I have my 12,000lb set up thats for sale comes complete with hitch and bars ready to tow if you around the Seattle, WA area?

 

[NH_Bulldog]

I've used the Equalizer hitch and gave been very happy with, used it with my Ember 26RB. I have my 12,000lb set up thats for sale comes complete with hitch and bars ready to tow if you around the Seattle, WA area?

The OP posted that inquiry over 6 years ago. Hopefully he figured out what hitch to buy long before now.

 

[JRTJH]

Yep, this thread was "jump started" by Jeff65 at 8:23 this morning, so some of the comments are "current" others are "ancient history"...

 

[LHaven]

The nice thing about the propride is the bars are in place and go up and down with a drill. Nothing to lift or fight with.

Except the jacks and the drill.
Couldn't get the jacks up to proper tension with any of my drills without stalling them out first.
Found a HF drill/driver (hammer type) did the job. Then one trip my jack "disconnected."
Drive gear under top cap was pinned to shaft with roll pin. Roll pin was shattered from the hammering. Easily replaced with a trip to the local Ace.
Now I keep a stock of roll pins, plus finish nails that just wedge inside (for strength), in my toolbag, and replace them twice a year on both jacks "whether they need it or not."
If you use the "hand crank" socket they provide, none of this is necessary... but then DW can't do "her side," and I'm just spoiled.
All said, I love my ProPride to pieces. But it sure is a price outlier.

 

[Jeff_65]

Although you posted to a 6 year old thread, it is a valid question.

When we upgraded our truck towing the travel trailer we had at the time, even though we didn’t “need” the weight distribution, but we wanted to retain the sway control so we kept our hitch setup (Eaz-Lift Trekker 4 point).

Airbags just level the truck, they don’t redistribute weight the tongue weight from the rear to front of the truck. How did you determine your tongue weight? Our Super-Light Passport 240BH had a tongue weight of 925 lbs. measured at a CAT scale, so 605 lbs. sounds light for your much heavier trailer. Do you have another reason for air bags besides this trailer? If not, I would suggest disabling the air bags, and letting the weight distribution hitch with integrated sway control do its job.

First, thank you so much for your post. This is very helpful with a couple of interesting points. I performed the tongue weight with a doctors office style scale spanning a 2x4 between the scale and a 4x4. Based on your comment I'll check on this again and reach out later this week. That said, I'm a single traveler and believe it or not I don't have a lot of stuff in my trailer. Very few cloths etc. Most of my other gear is kept in my truck, either in the cab or in the bed of the truck. I've never disabled the airbags on my truck.....not sure why I would do that. I purchased the truck used and the airbags were already installed and I actually like how they perform when I'm hauling my work trailer. I do pull a 24' trailer when I haul a tractor, other equipment and hay performing farm work. Thanks again for your post. I'll reach back out later this week with additional information.

 

[Stu Norman]

This comment is helpful.....especially the first sentence "regardless of the TT or TV some sort of anti-sway system is recommended". This continues to be my question. I have a F350 4X4 with an auto airlift system (automatically adjust bed height to maintain level). When I connect my TT (7,600 GVWR, 605 tongue weight) it does not sag under the weight. So do I need a Weight distribution hitch? Sounds like you say yes. What I'm really interested in is sway control.

Your F-350, if one of the aluminum body years, already has electronic trailer sway control. You don't need anything else.

 

[sourdough]

Your F-350, if one of the aluminum body years, already has electronic trailer sway control. You don't need anything else.

I would disagree. The built in "sway control" of the truck only begins to work AFTER the trailer is swinging enough to feel it in the truck which, for me, is a little late IMO.
A sway control attached to the vehicle has constant resistance to sway so it eliminates/controls it in the first place. The truck sway control is an added feature, maybe, but won't take the place of a proactive, vs reactive, sway control system.
I have a 3500 4x4 and can attest that there is a difference, even with a 1 ton, pulling with/without a sway control. I prefer to err on the side of safety vs winging it.

 

[Stu Norman]

I would disagree. The built in "sway control" of the truck only begins to work AFTER the trailer is swinging enough to feel it in the truck which, for me, is a little late IMO.
A sway control attached to the vehicle has constant resistance to sway so it eliminates/controls it in the first place. The truck sway control is an added feature, maybe, but won't take the place of a proactive, vs reactive, sway control system.
I have a 3500 4x4 and can attest that there is a difference, even with a 1 ton, pulling with/without a sway control. I prefer to err on the side of safety vs winging it.

The Ford electronic sway control is more than sufficient for his situation.

On my 2019 F-250, I have to disable the Ford system when towing my Hideout 28RKS. The hitch plus the electronic system overcorrects the sway.

 

[JRTJH]

Your F-350, if one of the aluminum body years, already has electronic trailer sway control. You don't need anything else.

You might want to do a "quick GOOGLE search" asking this question: "is the sway control system in a new ford truck all that's needed to safely tow a large travel trailer?"
The answers I got were overwhelmingly "the system, by itself is not sufficient for safe towing"
Here's the "AI answer": While the Trailer Sway Control system in a new Ford truck is a valuable safety feature, it's not sufficient on its own to ensure safe towing of a large travel trailer. A weight-distributing hitch with sway control (usually in the form of friction-based sway bars) is also crucial for maintaining stability and preventing dangerous trailer sway, especially with larger and heavier trailers.
It further states: TSC is a reactive system, meaning it activates after sway has already started. It is a last line of defense, not a replacement for proper weight distribution and a stable towing setup. '

Essentially, the Ford "electronic sway control system" works "IN CONJUNCTION" with a quality sway control hitch to effectively reduce sway to a safe level in MOST situations..... It is NOT a replacement for, but an enhancement to a good weight distribution hitch with sway control.....

 

[NH_Bulldog]

I have always kept the factory system active even with the hitch sway control. The hitch sway control prevents sway from happening in the first place, the factory sway control helps you regain control after sway has started and you are fishtailing all over the highway. Been there, done that, changed my underwear after and swore I would never rely on the electronic sway control again.

 

[sourdough]

The Ford electronic sway control is more than sufficient for his situation.

On my 2019 F-250, I have to disable the Ford system when towing my Hideout 28RKS. The hitch plus the electronic system overcorrects the sway.

If it works for you and you feel you, yours and others on the road are protected...as they should be...I suppose it's sufficient for "you". I like optimum safety and protection of others, others may do as they wish.

 

[Eman85]

I drive old trucks but have driven big and small. In my mind an electronic sway control can only attempt to correct sway by applying trailer brakes or is there some other magic built into it? I've had a trailer sway so much it had the rear wheels of the truck break loose and slide side to side.

 

[JRTJH]

I drive old trucks but have driven big and small. In my mind an electronic sway control can only attempt to correct sway by applying trailer brakes or is there some other magic built into it? I've had a trailer sway so much it had the rear wheels of the truck break loose and slide side to side.

The way the Ford "anti-sway system" is explained is that when it senses trailer sway, it applies a series of corrective breaking to the truck wheels combined with engine power management (speed reduction) to counter the detected sway. It works, sometimes. But if you're trying to climb a hill, have an 18 wheeler on your trailer's butt and the trailer sways, you can imagine the "seat condition" of the driver of that 18 wheeler when your engine decelerates and your truck starts braking while he's "rolling coal" trying to get to the top of the mountain...

Years ago, some RV company that worked with Airstream created a "trailer anti-sway system"... It was a "black box" with a gyroscope in it. The gyro had two "feedback potentiometers" in the yaw plane. Any lateral movement of the trailer rear end was sensed by movement of the gyro and an electrical signal was sent to the appropriate trailer brakes (left or right side) and that was supposed to control sway. Reports at the time indicated it worked, but on our 1968 Airstream Land Yacht, it was a $2300 option. The total price of the trailer was just under $7000. Spending almost 1/3 the price of the entire trailer on a "gadget that hadn't been proven" was beyond our ability to justify. It was a couple years later we started getting reports on how it worked since there were probably only 10 or 20 trailer buyers who had it installed...

It went along with the "waste tank evaporation system" for motorhomes. Sort of an "opposite what DEF does for diesels" that system injected liquified black and gray tank contents into the muffler after the motorhome was at operating temperature and moving. It essentially "burned the liquid poo" and spewed the steam out at the cars behind it... I've never been behind one, but can imagine that it wasn't a nice place to be in the days when most cars didn't have air conditioning and most drove with windows open.... That system failed not only because of expense, it also literally destroyed the mufflers and very likely violated every "clean air regulation" in existance at the time.

 

[NH_Bulldog]

John, Lippert has recently tried to reinvent that trailer sway control system (called True Course). It is an electronic sway control that applies trailer brakes to mitigate sway (AFTER it has already started). I can only imagine what would happen when that system, plus the truck electronic sway control kicked in at the same time.

Curt True Course

 

[chuckster57]

I installed a Tuson electronic sway control on a new trailer a few months ago. I guess it’s working good, customer hasn’t called to say otherwise.

 

[Eman85]

The way the Ford "anti-sway system" is explained is that when it senses trailer sway, it applies a series of corrective breaking to the truck wheels combined with engine power management (speed reduction) to counter the detected sway. It works, sometimes. But if you're trying to climb a hill, have an 18 wheeler on your trailer's butt and the trailer sways, you can imagine the "seat condition" of the driver of that 18 wheeler when your engine decelerates and your truck starts braking while he's "rolling coal" trying to get to the top of the mountain...

Years ago, some RV company that worked with Airstream created a "trailer anti-sway system"... It was a "black box" with a gyroscope in it. The gyro had two "feedback potentiometers" in the yaw plane. Any lateral movement of the trailer rear end was sensed by movement of the gyro and an electrical signal was sent to the appropriate trailer brakes (left or right side) and that was supposed to control sway. Reports at the time indicated it worked, but on our 1968 Airstream Land Yacht, it was a $2300 option. The total price of the trailer was just under $7000. Spending almost 1/3 the price of the entire trailer on a "gadget that hadn't been proven" was beyond our ability to justify. It was a couple years later we started getting reports on how it worked since there were probably only 10 or 20 trailer buyers who had it installed...

It went along with the "waste tank evaporation system" for motorhomes. Sort of an "opposite what DEF does for diesels" that system injected liquified black and gray tank contents into the muffler after the motorhome was at operating temperature and moving. It essentially "burned the liquid poo" and spewed the steam out at the cars behind it... I've never been behind one, but can imagine that it wasn't a nice place to be in the days when most cars didn't have air conditioning and most drove with windows open.... That system failed not only because of expense, it also literally destroyed the mufflers and very likely violated every "clean air regulation" in existance at the time.

Freightliner they had a system, to say it didn't work well would be an understatement. I'll stick to older bigger than I need trucks, a good brake box and a correctly loaded and hitched trailer.

 

[Jeff_65]

You might want to do a bit more "weight verification"... The specs you quoted are for an EMPTY trailer as shipped from the factory. That 605 pound tongue weight has NO propane in the tanks, NO battery in the battery tray, NO optional equipment ordered/installed in the trailer and NO owner installed equipment, camping supplies, food, tools, water/sewer hoses, chocks, blocks, firewood, grill, chairs, galley pots, pans, dishes, no towels, bedding, pillows or the "hundreds of pounds of other stuff you'll load in the trailer. Expect your trailer to grow weight substantially.

Then there's the receiver limitations on your truck.
Depending on whether you are using the 2.5" receiver with or without a 2" adapter sleeve, the weight limits are different. Then there's the "tongue weight max with/without a W/D hitch.

As an example, here's my receiver max weight limits. As you can see, using a 2" sleeve, the MAX trailer weight WITHOUT a W/D hitch is 6000 pounds and the MAX tongue weight is 600 pounds. So, regardless of whether that receiver is on a F150, F250 or F350, with or without an "optional automatic leveling system" you would be over the receiver's maximum weight rating using an adapter sleeve to tow that trailer unless you use a weight distribution hitch. And, even if you are not using a 2" adapter sleeve, the maximum "weight carrying limit" is 850 pounds, and your Coleman 1905RB "loaded to travel tongue weight" will likely be much closer to 1000 pounds than it will be to 605 pounds.

So, depending on "what equipment you're using to connect the receiver to the hitch to the trailer, you may or may not be over the maximum weight limits. Then there's the matter of sway control. You can't "add a "mechanical sway control to a "cheap 2" hitch stinger"... You need a special adapter type hitch with the hole/mount needed for the sway control PLUS you'll need to drill holes in your trailer tongue A-frame along with limiting the ability to back the trailer without removing that sway device...

So, can it be done to tow with out a W/D hitch? Yep, but it's not just a matter of "I've got an F350 so I'm good"... Depending on HOW you're using the truck receiver, you may very well be violating the weight limitations of the receiver and still not able to connect a "cheap sway control bar" to the hitch ball stinger....

Here's a photo of my receiver limitations:

Ok. Once again I want to thank you for your thoughts and guidance. It is helpful if nothing else to double check my thoughts etc. I went back out to the storage facility. I insured my trailer was level both left/right and front back. I performed the weight test with an "old school" Dr. office style sale (with weight and balances). As subscribed, I used a 4x4 block and pipe on one side 1' from the trailer post and then 3' on the other side of the trailer post (4' total span between pipes) I had my scale with pipe. I used a 4x4 for the span piece. The weight of the span piece, pipes, etc was 11 lbs. When I lowered the trailer post and raised the trailer from the trailer hitch the scale read 170 lbs. So I subtracted the 11 lbs from the 170 lbs to account for the weight of the testing apparatus and got 159 lbs. I multiplied that by 4 (the distance between the two pipes) to get 636 lbs. as the tongue weight. As also recommended I double checked the Max Gross TRLR WT of the receiver which stated (18,200 lbs) and the Max Tongue WT 1,820 lbs.