Jacking up your trailer.

[HIDE-EE]

1st I agree with the bottle or scissor jack at u bolts if charging a flat. The question I have is how would you get all axles up and hanging if you need all wheels off to do suspension work. When I had my Hideout fifth wheel I bought the Dexter EZ flex kit. I thought about how to get the trailer in the air to install the kit. The best idea I had was to pull the trailer up on blocks as high as I felt safe. Placing 4 jack stands on frame in front and behind axles. Then using the landing gear to teeter-totter onto the jack stands. Then jack the axles at u bolts pull the blocks one at a time and let wheels hang. My fear was causing to much body flex in the teetering. I sold the trailer and got a Montana with road armor suspension so problem solved I guess.

 

[SerenityNow-KEY]

Creative idea and quite functional solution. I have a 12 ton bottle jack carry with our 35 foot 23 Avalanche fifth wheel. Have thought it best just to call road rescue service since have coverage in event of flat if have phone service. I figured road rescue would know best location to jack but now I will keep my eye on where they place the jack. Feeling under U bolts best location vs frame rail. Thanks all for advice. Good discussion.

 

[JRTJH]

Just my observation and memory of some posts on this and other forums:

There are places in this great country of ours where "road service" simply is either not available or so distant from the breakdown location, that waiting 4 or 5 hours or "hopefully by noon tomorrow" for a road service to arrive is not acceptable. Then there's "road service contracts" where AAA or State Farm or some other "road service provider" simply can't find someone to contract with to service their customers... Then, they (the service) doesn't have anyone to call to dispatch to you, so they have to "start calling local wreckers to see if any of them will go to your breakdown site"...

Essentially all the car manufacturers offer "free roadside service" for a period of time with new car sales. They rely on the dealership contracts with local wreckers to service those locations. A dealership might have contracts with 10 or 15 wreckers, all of which agree to "tow to the dealer" but each has its own mileage circle around their location. So even relying on the truck manufacturer's "road service" will probably have some "dark areas where roadside service is not available" or "where it takes days to get someone to respond"....

So, even if you have a "good roadside plan you expect to use if you have a flat in the middle of nowhere" Remember that getting someone to your location in a timely manner may mean your trailer sits for more hours than you want or even sits for days before they can get to you..... It's always, ALWAYS in your interest to have a backup plan (and the equipment) to change your own tire if you have to.....

 

[SerenityNow-KEY]

I agree with the sobering reality of how soon a flat repair service provider could respond and be on site if needed. I do always carry jack and tools to do myself. So far have not had a blowout on road, thank goodness. But I know it will happen at some point. Always check air pressure before hitting road as best preventive measure. Carry the VIAIR 450P-RV portable 12v air compressor on board. Appreciate comment JRTJH.

 

[hazmat456]

There is a rocker between the tires, place hydraulic jack there no wat to bend a axel or to damage anything. You take a risk of bending the axel by lifting anywhere on it including the u bolts. Caster/Camber..
I asked several dealership and this it where they said to do it..

This is probably one of the only places that you should never use for a lifting point. And i do not believe several dealerships recommended it. This would create two pivot points above the jack, so it could actually kill you.

 

[NH_Bulldog]

There is a rocker between the tires, place hydraulic jack there no wat to bend a axel or to damage anything. You take a risk of bending the axel by lifting anywhere on it including the u bolts. Caster/Camber..
I asked several dealership and this it where they said to do it..

Insanity

Jacking on the equalizer would be like jacking up a teeter-totter in the middle. The slightest imbalance will kick out the jack causing the trailer to fall and cause damage to the trailer and likely to the person jacking it. If a dealer really told you that, it is a sick, sick joke.

 

[JRTJH]

I would NEVER jack a trailer "on the equalizer" !!!!

If you look at these photos, you can see just how dangerous it could be, if the equalizer shifts position and your jack slips off the "moving part". Additionally, many of the "upgraded equalizers" are several parts that include rubber cushions, moving/articulating arms, zerk fittings and other easily damaged parts. Also, the ENTIRE equalizer assembly is mounted to two "thin sheet metal hangers" that are welded to the bottom of the frame rail. Those spring/equalizer hangers" are easily bent, welds can be broken if stressed inappropriately.

So, bottom line is not only is jacking on the equalizer a dangerous way to damage your trailer or worse, kill yourself, it's also extremely difficult to get a jack "up under the equalizer, jack it high enough to lift a tire and keep it stable enough to actually start pushing and pulling on the tires and hubs....

Here's the photos/drawings of what can happen and what you can damage. Take note of the first drawing. The equalizer is "level" ONLY with both tires on the ground, sharing equal weight. Lift them with the equalizer, then pull one tire off and they no longer share the same weight, so you'll probalby see the equalizer move toward the heavier axle. That will "toss your jack off center on the equalizer... And, on many (maybe most) of today's equalizers, there "ain't no flat spot to put a jack"....

 

[markltorrey]

Haven't had the "pleasure", yet, of changing a flat on the road, but at the recommendation of my brother-in-law, purchased a ramp for that purpose. Better to be prepared and do it the safest way possible. Also gave a 20 ton bottle jack, and leveling blocks if that method is needed, and it just seems the u-bolts are the best, safest jackpoint, though.

 

[workinonit]

I paid good money for the six jacks that are already on the RV. That is what I use when I change tires. No jacking required and you can do it from an app..

 

[jxnbbl]

I remembered this recent thread and had to change a tire on the road. Although I bought this many years ago for my boat trailer I've carried this with me in trailer and used it for the first time. It really worked well.

 

[Eman85]

I made a ramp like the Camco one out of wood and tried it in my driveway to be sure it worked. I have had the opportunity to use it for changing a flat a few times. I carry a 1/2" cordless impact and impact sockets also so a flat takes just a few minutes, takes longer to get the spare out. If I have to jack my trailers with leaf springs I go under the axle plate for the U bolts. On my torsion axle trailer I can jack on the frame between axles and get both off of the ground. Place 2 jack stands on each side and I can remove all 4 tires.

 

[Rhagfo]

I've had tires replaced a few times and every time I did the people at the tire shop wanted to jack the trailer up at the axle. NO! I stop them immediately and have them figure out a way to jack at the frame.

Then I came up with this idea and it's worked great ever since:

I carry it under here:

I've had LOTS of questions on this and other forums for using this methods about the weight the single axle carries when lifting this way. But, I've never had any issues and it's the safest way I've found to do it. Of course, if you have to replace all 4 tires at the same time, it will require doing only 1 tire at a time, moving the camper and then doing the next tire (4 times). Still, it's the safest route I've found.

Well they likely looked at you like you were crazy! A good tire shop knows how and where to jack up your trailer. Jacking on the axle at the spring does NO HARM!
In fact at one point they had four jacks under the trailer, and all four tires off being remounted.

 

[DutchmenSport]

Update: I have since added a hydraulic bottle jack to my repertoire of RV tools to the camper! I used it for a slide repair, but not for tire replacement. I decided to keep it in the camper permanently... one never knows when something like that might come in handy ... personally, I hope that time is "never!"

 

[Eman85]

Another thing if your using a bottle jack is with the flat you might not be able to fit the bottle jack under the spring. Always good to have some wood with you to pull the trailer on and gain some height.

 

[David Greenwell]

Great information on this thread. I wish I was as lucky with tires and wheel issues. I’ve had 2 blowouts, 2 valve stems break, and 2 blown bearings all at various times over the past 4 years. So I’ve become VERY accustomed to jacking up my Cougar 5th wheel.

I have used my truck scissor jack in the beginning and moved to an 8ton bottle jack. I have always jacked up under the Spring U-bolt. But I’ve found it is hard to remove and install the wheel due to the plastic skirting fenders.

Last time I used my rear stabilizer jack to raise the RV frame up along with the bottle jack to get the wheel off the ground and give me better clearance.

I just ordered the Camco ramp and am interested in giving that a try.

I now carry a full arsenal of repair equipment including a replacement hub and bearings and replacement valve stems.

 

[Frankp877]

This is an option I've been looking at

https://www.etrailer.com/Automotive-Tools/Power-Mountain/PM34FR.html?etam=a0001

Safer than using multiple blocks to raise a bottle jack

 

[flybouy]

Last time I used my rear stabilizer jack to raise the RV frame up along with the bottle jack to get the wheel off the ground and give me better clearance.

Never use a stabilizer to raise the frame. The stabilizer is named for its function. If it was a jack it would be called a leveler. Using it as a jack can damage the stabilizer as well as potentially bending the frame as the placement along the frame would vary depending on the device.

The other issue with doing this, especially on the side of the road, is having the stabilizer fail. Stabilizers are engineered to be used on a flat level surface. Scissor Jack's & stabilizers are not strong enough to withstand much later force. They are designed to transfer the weight straight to the ground. Using either type device, especially on the shoulder of a roadway, will by default orient the "scissors " 90° to the travel lane. This will expose its weakest points to side winds from passing vehicles as well as side forces due to the drainage pitch of the shoulder.

 

[David Greenwell]

Indeed! I was in a level parking lot and only used the stabilizer to slightly raise the frame to give me a little clearance between the tire and the plastic fenders. Still relied on the jack under the ubolt to lift the tire off the ground.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[flybouy]

Even "slightly" raising the frame with the stabilizer risks twisting the frame, especially on the "lightweight " models.