fWIW there is 12VDC air conditioners for roof top mount on RVs.
fWIW there is 12VDC air conditioners for roof top mount on RVs.
I've always used Xantrex inverters in the past and I still have a Prosine 1,800 watt model in my garage. I like the availability of a built-in transfer switch. The trailer I'm considering has two "inverter prep" setups and the unit I looked at had a Xantrex Freedom X 2,000 watt model already installed. I couldn't really get a good look at the wiring, but my biggest question is if the "prep" is just a Romex loop, where does it start and where does it end? Is there a subpanel somewhere? The trailer has a 50 amp main panel, with (I'm assuming) two 120 volt hot leads, L1 and L2, neutral and ground leads. There's only one breaker in the panel marked "inverter". Inverted circuits need an "in" and an "out" with a transfer switch that sends power to selected circuits when shore (or generator) power isn't available. Any ideas?
This is a brand new 2023 Outback 328RL. They are all now coming with solar and inverter prep. Some already have one inverter installed.The Xantrex inverter that's installed in this unit has a 30 amp built-in transfer switch. I guess the "AC out" side of the inverter just goes to the first of seven outlets of the inverted branch circuit and ends there, so it really isn't a loop, but more that the inverter interrupts the circuit. That won't be good enough for me as I will want some air-conditioning that's inverter powered. I see a bigger inverter, subpanel and some big lithium batteries in my future, lol...
First, you need to find out exactly which SolarFlex system is installed in the specific trailer you are buying. There are two SolarFlex systems available.
1. SolarFlex 200 (no "i") which is the basic system with no inverter installed. All that is supplied is a single 200 watt roof panel, charge controller and a loop to install a future inverter. NOTE: Many dealerships install an aftermarket inverter at the loop and sell it as a "solar ready trailer" often with a single gp24 FLA battery.....
2. SolarFlex 400i (note the "i") which is a $2K option which includes two 200watt roof panels, two roof ports (for additional installation of roof panels) an upgraded charge controller and TWO inverter loops. One of those loops (for the outlets) has an inverter installed. The other loop is intended for use with the air conditioner, but requires an air conditioner changeout (or modification for easy start system).
3. Then there isi an optional Li battery package ($2.7K) which is two "factory supplied" 100 a/h Dragonfly batteries. To add the "SolarFlex 400i and two Dragonfly 100a/h batteries is very close to $5K in optional solar equipment. NO DEALER IS GOING TO SELL THAT "as a perk"... But many do "throw in a cheap inverter and call it a complete solar ready system" (IT IS NOT !!!!)
You need to do some "serious reading" on the Keystone website to "educate yourself" on EXACTLY what is included in the trailer you're buying. If it has a SolarFlex 200 system with a "dealer installed inverter in the loop" you will need to do some EXTENSIVE and EXPENSIVE upgrades to power an air conditioner with the battery system. If it has the "basic 400i SolarFlex system, then there's a loop for a second inverter (for the air conditioner) but you'll need to change out/modify the air conditioner to use it on batteries.
Here's the link for the Keystone data on the SolarFlex systems, how they differ, what's included and more important, what you can NOT accomplish with the basic system. There's an extensive section on the limitations of the 200 system and a good explanation on WHY YOU CAN'T MAKE IT INTO A 400i system....
Spend some time learning about it "from the factory information"... WAY TOO MANY RV salesmen don't know squat about the SolarFlex differences. WAY TOO MANY RV dealerships "throw in a cheap inverter and sell the trailers are "ready to go complete with air conditioning" when in fact they simply are NOT the same as a factory equipped SolarFlex 400i system.
Here's the links:
SolarFlex 200: https://www.keystonerv.com/solarflex-200-overview
QuickStart guide: https://keystone-rv-dealer-app.cdn....-b054-1dfb3dbdc5ce_KRV_SolaFlexDF_QSG_WEB.pdf
SolarFlex 400i: https://www.keystonerv.com/solarflex-400i-overview
QuickStart guide: Same as above, but don't skip down to page 4.
In the quickstart guide, you'll find answers for two VERY IMPORTANT QUESTIONS...i
WHY CAN'T I BUILD MY SF200 TO BE LIKE A SF400i ?
and
WHY CAN'T I BUILD MY SF400I TO BE LIKE A SF600i ?
The answers to most (maybe all) of the information you need to know is included in these three links.....
I'd urge you to NOT trust every word promised by an RV salesman. They simply can't, in a 4 or 5 word answer, give you what you need to know about making a WISE CHOICE between the available "factory solar options" and the "common owner aftermarket modifications".....
Do some serious reading and don't get took by a "hungry dealer".....
Just 2 comments:
1. I'd enhance that diagram to have a actual shutoff instead of using the fuse.
2. Check the fuse sizing as the 2000 inverters I've seen/installed recommend 250A
.....
The inverter I got:
https://www.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pure-sine-wave-inverter-with-power-saving-mode-new-edition/
That been said I'm open minded and not rulling out changing the rating to 250A
There is no circular charging loop because the inverter loop cord is not charging the batteries or feeding the charger but is going to 120 VAC outlets.
The MPPT solar battery charger controller is another separate circuit.
That's why Keystone left the yellow inverter prep cord, for easy and correct inverter installation.
I see, thanks.
Did some more reading, I just changed the diagram to 250A.
For me the circuit breaker within the RV basement is enough. It is pretty close to the battery and also to the inverter, and is protected from the elements.
I don't want to over complicate things.
Updated diagram:
View attachment 46202
I have a 2022 Passport GT 2951BH and about to install the Renogy Pure Sine Wave 2000W inverter.
It doesn't have an AC internal automatic transfer switch.
I talked to a friend (he did a similar inverter setup on his catamaran) and we came up with this diagram, hopefully it can help others
View attachment 46199
The automatic transfer switch should have the shore power (yellow hot line) as a priority over the inverter lines.
I'm going to use the Furrion 30 AMP Auto Transfer Switch but the internal layout is identical.
Yellow cord hot goes the bottom right (SHORE POWER CORD)
Yellow cord cold goes the top left (LINE OUT)
Inverter cord goes to the top right (GENERATOR)
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