Inverter Install?

[Winterchase]

I bought a Renogy 2000W pure sine inverter off of Amazon last year. I'm tired of my outlets and TV not working when I'm not hooked up to shore power and I don't really know jack about electrical systems. My 2022 Passport 189RB is pre-wired for an inverter. It's just one yellow cord. I've asked before and apparently I just cut it in half but I'm unsure about other components of the install and it's not getting done. If I take it to a RV service place how much do you all think I should budget for it to be installed?

 

[HeadHam]

Yes, that yellow wire is the "loop" coming from your circuit breaker panel and feeding the outlets marked "inverter". When you cut it, that's where a transfer switch would go in line to either complete the loop when on shore power, (as it was before you cut it) or connecting to the inverter when boon docking. Locating and mounting the inverter should be done to minimize the distance from the inverter DC input to the batteries. I also installed a fuse inline on the DC side available from Renology.

I used a manual DPDT switch for the transfer, but most people go with an automatic one.

Keep in mind that not all the outlets will be powered by the inverter, and heavy draw items like a coffee pot will drain the batteries in a hurry.

 

[Winterchase]

I might be able to DIY it. I'm a bit dumb on this stuff. Give me business and contracts and I'm sharp as a knife but all this wiring confuses the heck out of me. Got an image and photoshopped it...so it's like this...right?

Basically this on Amazon: Amazon.com

Am I supposed to connect the solar charger? This is where I'm getting very confused.

 

[HeadHam]

Sorry, my eyes are bad!! I can't be sure of the connections on the diagram. So here is what I suggest:

With the 120 volt power off, cut the yellow wire. Now being sure the cut ends are not touching anything, turn the power back on. The end that now has 120 volts is coming from the breaker panel, mark this one has the "feed", now you can turn off the power again. The other end is the one going out to the outlets in the trailer, mark this one "load". So now you have 2 pairs (one black and one white) identified. The "load" pair would be your common connection, as you want that powered either from the shore or the inverter. The "feed" would be normally closed as you'll be running shore power normally. The two remaining terminals, normally open, would be for the output from the inverter. Clear as mud right? Hope it made some sense.

 

[NH_Bulldog]

Just be aware that with the Renogy inverter, it has to be on 100% of the time, even while on shore power or the downstream outlets will not work. The design of the Renogy is more like a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) than it is a real inverter. It will work, but it comes with a lot of compromises, including mounting location and orientation. Also Renogy makes two versions of the 2000w inverter, one with standard outlets and one with hardwired AC in and AC out with a “passthrough” feature (sort of).

The preferred inverter type for these Keystone units includes an automatic transfer switch AND power passthrough (whether the unit is on or off). The only way the Renogy passes power through is if it is on. Maybe not a big deal to some, but too much of a headache for me, so after talking with Renogy and learning the limitations, I went with a different brand/model that works as Keystone intended (and only cost a little bit more).

 

[workinonit]

Hey Rob, what smart shunt did you use? I want to add one just for observation.

 

[NH_Bulldog]

Hey Rob, what smart shunt did you use? I want to add one just for observation.

I used the same one that Keystone uses on factory builds; Victron 500A IP65 version. I didn’t really “need” the IP65 water protection, but figured it couldn’t hurt. I like having the info it provides on usage, and remaining battery power in days/hours/minutes.

https://a.co/d/4pXYHsz the price now is about $20 less than when I bought mine last May. In the picture, the shunt is to the left of the Giggy box. This is from before I installed my inverter, fuse block and additional disconnect.

 

[aimcorep1]

Just be aware that with the Renogy inverter, it has to be on 100% of the time, even while on shore power or the downstream outlets will not work. The design of the Renogy is more like a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) than it is a real inverter. It will work, but it comes with a lot of compromises, including mounting location and orientation. Also Renogy makes two versions of the 2000w inverter, one with standard outlets and one with hardwired AC in and AC out with a “passthrough” feature (sort of).

The preferred inverter type for these Keystone units includes an automatic transfer switch AND power passthrough (whether the unit is on or off). The only way the Renogy passes power through is if it is on. Maybe not a big deal to some, but too much of a headache for me, so after talking with Renogy and learning the limitations, I went with a different brand/model that works as Keystone intended (and only cost a little bit more).

What inverter did you use and are you happy with it?

 

[NH_Bulldog]

I installed a Progressive Dynamics PD1620A. On sale and with a discount code, it was under $400. Currently, the best price is at $425 which is about half the cost of the Xantrex Feedom X 2000 inverter that Keystone uses.

Progressive Dynamics PD1620A Inteli-Power 2000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter

Get clean electric power and advanced features with the Progressive Dynamics PD1620 Series Pure Sine Wave Inverter available from Boat & RV Accessories.

www.boatandrvaccessories.com

Is is high efficiency, Pure Sine Wave (safe for sensitive electronics), it has an included wired remote panel, it has a built-in auto transfer switch, and will passthrough AC power even while it is off. I also confirmed with PD directly that it can be mounted upside down on the ceiling of my front compartment (although they advise against it in case you don't mount it securely enough and it falls). I have a steel plate welded there from Keystone specifically for the inverter and so that is where I mounted it (using bolts with Nyloc nuts). It is Made in the USA and has been great for the limited use I have given it since it was installed at the end of our camping season.

 

[aimcorep1]

Thank you for the info, will check it out and see what I find. Appreciate the responce.
BW

 

[268BH]

Just be aware that with the Renogy inverter, it has to be on 100% of the time, even while on shore power or the downstream outlets will not work. The design of the Renogy is more like a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) than it is a real inverter. It will work, but it comes with a lot of compromises, including mounting location and orientation. Also Renogy makes two versions of the 2000w inverter, one with standard outlets and one with hardwired AC in and AC out with a “passthrough” feature (sort of).

The preferred inverter type for these Keystone units includes an automatic transfer switch AND power passthrough (whether the unit is on or off). The only way the Renogy passes power through is if it is on. Maybe not a big deal to some, but too much of a headache for me, so after talking with Renogy and learning the limitations, I went with a different brand/model that works as Keystone intended (and only cost a little bit more).

Which inverter did you go with?

 

[NH_Bulldog]

Progressive Dynamics PD1620A. It is the silver unit on the right

 

[aimcorep1]

Which inverter did you go with?

I went with a GoPower I/C 3000 by Dometic. The install went perfectly, it is fully automatic, with the remote panel it seems flawless. It will also power share, something we may or may not use. If you are hooked up to a 15 amp shore power source and require more than the 15 amp will allow, the inverter can add power from the batteries to make up the difference. Will see how that works, typically if I have any question I would use the gen set. Any way, works great and just added the solar controller and wired it together. Last project in that regard is mounting panels...
Still lots to do, this last weekend, besides the Solar Controller, I packed wheel bearings, replaced the equalizers with Dexter EZ Flex units, added shocks and the list goes on...

 

[JRTJH]

I went with a GoPower I/C 3000 by Dometic. The install went perfectly, it is fully automatic, with the remote panel it seems flawless. It will also power share, something we may or may not use. If you are hooked up to a 15 amp shore power source and require more than the 15 amp will allow, the inverter can add power from the batteries to make up the difference. Will see how that works, typically if I have any question I would use the gen set. Any way, works great and just added the solar controller and wired it together. Last project in that regard is mounting panels...
Still lots to do, this last weekend, besides the Solar Controller, I packed wheel bearings, replaced the equalizers with Dexter EZ Flex units, added shocks and the list goes on...

I'm not sure how an automatic transfer switch could add 120VAC from an inverter to an existing 120VAC shore power system without it becoming 240VAC and damaging anything connected to the plugs. If you keep everything separate on the "inverter outlets" and disconnect them from the other power source, maybe it might "supplement" without voltage combining to a dangerous level.... But....

Pay close attention to what you're doing. Seems there's always someone posting about destroying parts of their trailer when plugging into a 240VAC source.... I'd suspect that you may be "creating a 240 source within your wiring when supplementing shore power with an inverter to "take up some slack"....

 

[NH_Bulldog]

Since that is an Inverter/Charger, please tell me you disconnected and/or removed your factory power converter......

 

[mikehoyt]

This is my fairly simple setup.

I moved the black plastic cover that had been marked "inverter prep" closer to middle of the pass through area. You can see this just behind the inverter. I brought the battery cables through this and installed the victron shunt in there. From here the cables connected to the back side of the inverter. Make sure they are disconnected from battery while doing installation. Some serious sparks could result if they touch!

The hot side of the Romex goes into the junction box from above. Your voltmeter will confirm that this is 120v. Make sure to turn off breaker at converter and unplug from shore power while installing. The hot romex connects to the top black wire (AC input 2) on the transfer switch inside the junction box. The output wire on the back of the transfer switch is routed to the junction box and is connected with the romex not hot wire (which goes to the outlets). Power from the inverter is a normal electric plug in the 120 v outlet of the inverter to the bottom wire on the transfer switch (AC input 1).

I use this side (drivers side) of pass through to store water hoses, power cable and WDH bars when not in use. They well below and away from the electrical components. Regular camping gear (chairs, etc..) are on the passenger side of the pass through well away from the electrical components

Once you know how you are going to connect everything installation is fairly simple.

... and one thing to remember Black wires in 12 volt systems are negative but in 120 volt side these are HOT wire!

Mike Hoyt
2022 Passport 221BH

 

[aimcorep1]

I'm not sure how an automatic transfer switch could add 120VAC from an inverter to an existing 120VAC shore power system without it becoming 240VAC and damaging anything connected to the plugs. If you keep everything separate on the "inverter outlets" and disconnect them from the other power source, maybe it might "supplement" without voltage combining to a dangerous level.... But....

Pay close attention to what you're doing. Seems there's always someone posting about destroying parts of their trailer when plugging into a 240VAC source.... I'd suspect that you may be "creating a 240 source within your wiring when supplementing shore power with an inverter to "take up some slack"....

If you are interested in how it works, take a look at the GoPower IC Series manual on-line, page 40 tells you. As far as my set-up, the transfer switch does not add120VAC to anything. The output from the transfer switch is whatever shore power is being supplied. That output is fed into the Inverter (AC in) and the power line continues from the Inverter (AC out) to the panel. This supplies the entire trailer, I have plenty of inverter and battery bank to run the everything and no need to segregate an inverter loop, all outlets are powered in this system.
What I stated was that IF I were hooked up to a 15amp shore power and the inverter sensed a load greater than 15amps, the INVERTER will add additional wattage as long as the demand requires (provided I have battery amperage)
Since I am not an electrician, I have had my neighbor (who IS an electrician) check it out completely (with his meter and experience), completely sound with sine wave output and correct voltage. There is no scenario where 240 is supplied to any outlet.
I appreciate well intentioned advice and the cautions some have voiced. That is the reason I ran this past GoPower (Dometic) and an electrician.
Thank you.

 

[aimcorep1]

PS - I did remove the converter from the trailer...