Huge Battery Drain on 2019 Raptor 423

[Haydenraptor]

Hey guys,

All of our camping is dry at the dunes. I was out this weekend and I find myself constantly running the generator, as I will drop to 11.9v in just a couple hours. I have two Super Starts that I replaced over labor day weekend last year while I was in Idaho figuring out a converter issue I had, which has since been replaced due to the constant fuse blowing so it's not the converter.

But I have to run the genny every 2-3 hours, and run it for over an hour. I even brought a battery charger and charged each 6V to help juice it up, and had them on a tender for two days before we left.

This is not every light on or anything like that, I don't even like to leave the water pump on as I am afraid of low battery warning. Are these trailers REALLY drawing that much? I also have a 2016 Heartland torque (nowhere near as nice/fancy) but I could go the entire night without running the generator, no issue ever.

From 8pm-11pm there was the fridge, LED docking lights, exterior light, and the countertop strip light. Maybe the water pump once. By then I am around 11.9v-12.1v.

Any ideas? I don't forsee the smokies drawing that much, and I haven't noticed anything unusual. I will also note, when genny is on and batteries are charging, I can only get them to 13.5v or so, same if the trailer is plugged in. I haven't ever seen them at 13.9v-14.2v

Would love others insight, as I don't want to keep tearing it apart lol

 

[chuckster57]

You need to monitor the draw on your batteries.

 

[JRTJH]

Batteries that are consistently maintained at a LOW charge level, especially through the winter can deteriorate to a point that they won't hold a charge. It sounds like that may be PART of your problem. Also, what type of refrigerator do you have? If it's a "residential refrigerator" powered by an inverter that gets its power from the batteries, that may be your problem. If it's an electric/propane refrigerator, if it has an ice maker, the heating element in the ice maker can put a big drain on the batteries. Turn the ice maker off when dry camping to extend the battery charge. If you are using an "additional battery charger" while camping, keep in mind that the converter/charger in the trailer is "voltage sensitive". If you hook up another battery charger, no matter if it is a 1 amp or a 20 amp charger, as soon as it puts 12.6 volts on the battery circuit, it shuts off your "main charger" which significantly reduces the charge amperage to the battery bank... So, no additional chargers if you want maximum charging capacity from your onboard system.

At this point, I'd recommend pulling your batteries out of the trailer, fully charge them and then have them load tested. It sure sounds like they are "toast"...

As to why you can't measure 14.4VDC on your voltmeter when charging, the WFCO website has a great customer support section. In their FAQ section, they answer that question. Their answer: The converter is a constant current device. This design will hold current (amperage) constant while reducing voltage as loads increase. The converter may be in Bulk Charge Mode but, due to the high amperage draw, you may only see voltages in the high 12 VDC range. As amperage is reduced, the voltage will climb.

You can find a great deal of answers and get a better understanding of how your WFCO operates at this link: Frequently Asked Questions – WFCO Technologies The answer to that 14.4VDC question is in the "Electric" section.

 

[Route 66 Rambler]

Batteries that are consistently maintained at a LOW charge level, especially through the winter can deteriorate to a point that they won't hold a charge. It sounds like that may be PART of your problem. Also, what type of refrigerator do you have? If it's a "residential refrigerator" powered by an inverter that gets its power from the batteries, that may be your problem. If it's an electric/propane refrigerator, if it has an ice maker, the heating element in the ice maker can put a big drain on the batteries. Turn the ice maker off when dry camping to extend the battery charge. If you are using an "additional battery charger" while camping, keep in mind that the converter/charger in the trailer is "voltage sensitive". If you hook up another battery charger, no matter if it is a 1 amp or a 20 amp charger, as soon as it puts 12.6 volts on the battery circuit, it shuts off your "main charger" which significantly reduces the charge amperage to the battery bank... So, no additional chargers if you want maximum charging capacity from your onboard system.

At this point, I'd recommend pulling your batteries out of the trailer, fully charge them and then have them load tested. It sure sounds like they are "toast"...

As to why you can't measure 14.4VDC on your voltmeter when charging, the WFCO website has a great customer support section. In their FAQ section, they answer that question. Their answer: The converter is a constant current device. This design will hold current (amperage) constant while reducing voltage as loads increase. The converter may be in Bulk Charge Mode but, due to the high amperage draw, you may only see voltages in the high 12 VDC range. As amperage is reduced, the voltage will climb.

You can find a great deal of answers and get a better understanding of how your WFCO operates at this link: Frequently Asked Questions – WFCO Technologies The answer to that 14.4VDC question is in the "Electric" section.

This info is spot on. If the batteries were drained an some point below 50% then they are done and need to be replaced.

 

[Gypsyrose-KEY]

Hey guys,

All of our camping is dry at the dunes. I was out this weekend and I find myself constantly running the generator, as I will drop to 11.9v in just a couple hours. I have two Super Starts that I replaced over labor day weekend last year while I was in Idaho figuring out a converter issue I had, which has since been replaced due to the constant fuse blowing so it's not the converter.

But I have to run the genny every 2-3 hours, and run it for over an hour. I even brought a battery charger and charged each 6V to help juice it up, and had them on a tender for two days before we left.

This is not every light on or anything like that, I don't even like to leave the water pump on as I am afraid of low battery warning. Are these trailers REALLY drawing that much? I also have a 2016 Heartland torque (nowhere near as nice/fancy) but I could go the entire night without running the generator, no issue ever.

From 8pm-11pm there was the fridge, LED docking lights, exterior light, and the countertop strip light. Maybe the water pump once. By then I am around 11.9v-12.1v.

Any ideas? I don't forsee the smokies drawing that much, and I haven't noticed anything unusual. I will also note, when genny is on and batteries are charging, I can only get them to 13.5v or so, same if the trailer is plugged in. I haven't ever seen them at 13.9v-14.2v

Would love others insight, as I don't want to keep tearing it apart lol

Are your batteries marine or standard automotive batteries? If you use deep cycle marine batteries you're better off. You automotive batteries will short out from constantly recharging they're not able to handle large drains and then a fast charge will burn the lead plates inside causing shorts and blown fuses

 

[firestation12]

Hey guys,

All of our camping is dry at the dunes. I was out this weekend and I find myself constantly running the generator, as I will drop to 11.9v in just a couple hours. I have two Super Starts that I replaced over labor day weekend last year while I was in Idaho figuring out a converter issue I had, which has since been replaced due to the constant fuse blowing so it's not the converter.

But I have to run the genny every 2-3 hours, and run it for over an hour. I even brought a battery charger and charged each 6V to help juice it up, and had them on a tender for two days before we left.

This is not every light on or anything like that, I don't even like to leave the water pump on as I am afraid of low battery warning. Are these trailers REALLY drawing that much? I also have a 2016 Heartland torque (nowhere near as nice/fancy) but I could go the entire night without running the generator, no issue ever.

From 8pm-11pm there was the fridge, LED docking lights, exterior light, and the countertop strip light. Maybe the water pump once. By then I am around 11.9v-12.1v.

Any ideas? I don't forsee the smokies drawing that much, and I haven't noticed anything unusual. I will also note, when genny is on and batteries are charging, I can only get them to 13.5v or so, same if the trailer is plugged in. I haven't ever seen them at 13.9v-14.2v

Would love others insight, as I don't want to keep tearing it apart lol

The name Super Start battery suggests to me you have automotive starter batteries. If that is the case, you do not have deep cycle batteries. Lead acid starter batteries have a lot of internal resistance and do not allow a fast charge to take place, unlike a lithium battery which does accept a fast charge. You may want to consider replacing your batteries with lithium.

 

[AndyRonLI]

The price on lithium batteries is pretty low, though tariffs will likely change that. Just be aware you may need to reconfigure/replace your onboard charger. And depending on the size of the battery you install, you may want to add a DC/DC device between on the 12V supply from the tow vehicle. If this is a motorhome it can get a tiny bit more complicated.