How to winterize using the antifreeze method?

[chuckster57]

Those mesh screens pull right out. They are part of the washer, I use a small pick.

 

[cookinwitdiesel]

Excellent, thanks again guys!

 

[Bigmo1]

Someone asked about using the antifreeze by adding to the fresh water tank. This is the way i have done it for years. Drain all systems, add 3 gal pink to fresh water tank, Drain water heater and put in bypass. Turn on pump and run all faucets/shower and the toilet. I let each fixture run a few seconds to allow enough to get P traps filled.....at start of season, drain fresh water tank, fill with water hose to add 10-15 gal and then run through pump to clear the systems, reverse water heater bypass and install drain plug/anode. Ready for business

 

[Csmccharlie]

So Im starting to look into this as well and wanted to double check with the pros in here.

Would I pull the fitting circled in red at the water pump that pulls from the water storage tank and hook the hose up to siphon from the gallon jug.

Or the fitting circled in blue

 

[JRTJH]

So Im starting to look into this as well and wanted to double check with the pros in here.

Would I pull the fitting circled in red at the water pump that pulls from the water storage tank and hook the hose up to siphon from the gallon jug.

Or the fitting circled in blue

You would "pull the fitting circled in red" and connect the suction fitting/hose that is in the gallon jug of antifreeze.... Don't worry about "hooking it up wrong, if you hook your "suction fitting to the supply side of the water pump, if the fresh water tank is empty, you'll only blow bubbles into the antifreeze jug. If the fresh water tank is full (or has enough water remaining to deliver water to the pump, you'll know as soon as you turn on the pump because the antifreeze will "grow in the jug".... Anyway, attach your suction fitting to the red port. On top of the pump head, you should see a "molded arrow" pointing "INTO" the pump. The outlet side as a "molded arrow" pointing "AWAY" from the pump... The arrows aren't easy to see, especially when you're standing on your head, using a flashlight to see the pump.....

ADDED: When you get ready to pull that fitting circled in red, BE SURE YOUR FRESH WATER TANK IS EMPTY... If there is water in the tank, gravity will "flow water" all over your trailer through the tank supply hose that's connected to the fitting.

 

[Csmccharlie]

You would "pull the fitting circled in red" and connect the suction fitting/hose that is in the gallon jug of antifreeze.... Don't worry about "hooking it up wrong, if you hook your "suction fitting to the supply side of the water pump, if the fresh water tank is empty, you'll only blow bubbles into the antifreeze jug. If the fresh water tank is full (or has enough water remaining to deliver water to the pump, you'll know as soon as you turn on the pump because the antifreeze will "grow in the jug".... Anyway, attach your suction fitting to the red port. On top of the pump head, you should see a "molded arrow" pointing "INTO" the pump. The outlet side as a "molded arrow" pointing "AWAY" from the pump... The arrows aren't easy to see, especially when you're standing on your head, using a flashlight to see the pump.....

ADDED: When you get ready to pull that fitting circled in red, BE SURE YOUR FRESH WATER TANK IS EMPTY... If there is water in the tank, gravity will "flow water" all over your trailer through the tank supply hose that's connected to the fitting.

That's what I thought. Thanks!!

 

[DianandAmy]

Hot water heater

Hello!! Thank you for this thread. To do the bypass on the hot water heater, do I turn both the values. I have one connected to the blue hose and one connected to the red.

 

[JRTJH]

You turn both valves to OFF. Otherwise, if you turn the bottom valve off, leave the top valve on, you'll bypass filling the water heater at the bottom, but will flow water into the top, filling it anyway. Same would happen if you switch and turn the top valve off and leave the bottom valve on.

They work in "unison" so both on (summer use) or both off (winterization)...

 

[Marineman-KEY]

Interesting thread. It's also interesting that no one has mentioned what I'm about to say.

I've lived in cold country, including Alaska, for the last 27 years. I've also had an RV for the last 14 years. I came to the conclusion about how to winterize my RV by how I winterize my irrigation system. Just blow out the water and wait for Spring.

My system of making sure all water is purged from my RV has worked every time. Maybe I'm missing something, but I save by not having to purchase antifreeze, and, I save time and the hassle of filling and then purging all of my lines in the Spring. I just put water in and go.

My son, who worked at a Cruise America RV outlet for 7 years said that winterizing RV's is big bucks for the RV industry and that people are wasting money on this unnecessary chore. Even the mechanics in the shop told him this.

Curious what others think about this.

 

[JRTJH]

The faucet cartridge (hot and cold) in an RV faucet holds about a tablespoon of water. The toilet valve in an RV holds about the same amount. There are 4 faucets in my RV (kitchen, shower, vanity and outside shower) plus the toilet flush valve. Any one of those faucets costs 5 times the price of 2 gallons of RV antifreeze ($25 for a cheap faucet/$5 for 2 gallons of antifreeze).

RV antifreeze does not expand when it freezes, so any antifreeze trapped in a faucet cartridge or in the toilet flush valve or even in each of the P traps, won't expand and damage/destroy the faucet. Almost all of the "Phoenix, Flomax or Lasalle Bristol faucets that I've seen do not have repair cartridges available, so if one is damaged, you will need to replace the entire faucet.

If an RV plumbing system were "perfectly level and always drained to the low point drain caps" and if every tablespoon of water were blown out of the plumbing system using "air only" then I'd agree with you....

That said, living in a place where it regularly drops below 0F and often below -20F for weeks on end, the price of antifreeze is a "no brainer" compared to the risk of having to replace even one faucet or a P trap under any sink.

To me, the "added insurance" makes for less apprehension in the spring when I pull the trailer out of the pole barn and hook up the city water to the trailer....

For me, is it "mandatory"? No, but is it "reasonable" ? Certainly....

I don't like paying the thousand plus bucks every year for liability insurance on our vehicles and on the house, but that's "cheap" compared to having one problem in an accident or ???? For me, it's the same with the $5 in RV antifreeze. Just displacing the water remaining after using the compressed air is enough "added insurance" that I can "rest all winter without worrying about the trailer while it's in storage".... YMMV

 

[Marineman-KEY]

The faucet cartridge (hot and cold) in an RV faucet holds about a tablespoon of water. The toilet valve in an RV holds about the same amount. There are 4 faucets in my RV (kitchen, shower, vanity and outside shower) plus the toilet flush valve. Any one of those faucets costs 5 times the price of 2 gallons of RV antifreeze ($25 for a cheap faucet/$5 for 2 gallons of antifreeze).

RV antifreeze does not expand when it freezes, so any antifreeze trapped in a faucet cartridge or in the toilet flush valve or even in each of the P traps, won't expand and damage/destroy the faucet. Almost all of the "Phoenix, Flomax or Lasalle Bristol faucets that I've seen do not have repair cartridges available, so if one is damaged, you will need to replace the entire faucet.

If an RV plumbing system were "perfectly level and always drained to the low point drain caps" and if every tablespoon of water were blown out of the plumbing system using "air only" then I'd agree with you....

That said, living in a place where it regularly drops below 0F and often below -20F for weeks on end, the price of antifreeze is a "no brainer" compared to the risk of having to replace even one faucet or a P trap under any sink.

To me, the "added insurance" makes for less apprehension in the spring when I pull the trailer out of the pole barn and hook up the city water to the trailer....

For me, is it "mandatory"? No, but is it "reasonable" ? Certainly....

I don't like paying the thousand plus bucks every year for liability insurance on our vehicles and on the house, but that's "cheap" compared to having one problem in an accident or ???? For me, it's the same with the $5 in RV antifreeze. Just displacing the water remaining after using the compressed air is enough "added insurance" that I can "rest all winter without worrying about the trailer while it's in storage".... YMMV

lol...Like I said, I've lived in cold country for 27 years where snow, ice, and below zero temps become our winterly friend.

I've winterized my RV's for 14 years and have never had a problem. I do pour antifreeze in the pee traps, but that's it.

And I did mention my son, who worked at the Cruise American outlet in Spokane, Washington, for 7 years. He was number 1 in the Nation and understands this business.

But hey, whatever floats your boat. I just know a bunch of RV'ers here who just blow out their entire system with air. Works like a charm!

 

[JDDilly]

I have had RV's for 20 years and have not used antifreeze for the past 18 years, except for putting in the P traps. I have never had an issue with any valves or faucets.

 

[JRTJH]

I've lived in "sub zero climates" for the past 12 years (still an infant in cold weather this time around) after living in Louisiana for 30 years and before that, lived in the northern tier states while in the military. I've always used RV antifreeze after blowing out the lines with air. Some guys don't wear a belt, some wear a belt others wear suspenders and some wear both.... Is one "more right than the others" or is one "more wrong" ???? It's your trailer, use it any way you want. On mine, I'll spend the $5 a year on two gallons of antifreeze to help me feel better about what I did last fall.... YMMV and that's perfectly OK....

 

[flybouy]

I'm a belt and suspender kind a guy myself. On my 35 1/2' trailer there's an outdoor kitchen. The sink back there is at floor level so not much vertical pressure to gravity feed and it's a long way from the low point drains. I drain it, then blow the lines out with air (easy for me as I have compressor & tank in truck bed), Then I run antifreeze thru the fresh water pump until it runs undiluted from every valve.

Why? Well cost and time is minimal. Afterward I KNOW the fresh water pump is protected and I KNOW all of the system is protected. I KNOW that I've done everything possible to protect the system. A lot of people do things because they "never had an issue" or because they "have always done it that way". I personally don't beleive in that methodology. I've seen folks who make those statments because in "x years I've never had a problem" and that may work or that ma not be a problem until that one time that it doesn't.

Everyone has a choice and I choose to do it this was because it gives maximum protection. Yes I may waste ejough money to buy a 12 pack of beer but if I need the money that bad I'll sell the camper. Do your thing, it's akk good.

 

[Marineman-KEY]

I have had RV's for 20 years and have not used antifreeze for the past 18 years, except for putting in the P traps. I have never had an issue with any valves or faucets.

Same here. Never a problem. And my son, who worked in the RV business for 7 years told me that even the mechanics in his shop who winterize campers for a living said people are wasting money and time on this unnecessary chore.

Keep in mind, many people just pay the shop to take care of this because they don't want to deal with it. If they knew about just purging the system with air they might not take their unit to a shop.

No matter what type of RV you have, you can purge every line with air making sure you're good to go for the winter. I do the same thing with my irrigation system, and this is vital so that no pipes, valves, or sprinkler heads break.

And need to mention that even my RV manual gives me the option for both methods, showing how to do either one.

 

[JRTJH]

I have had RV's for 20 years and have not used antifreeze for the past 18 years, except for putting in the P traps. I have never had an issue with any valves or faucets.

Same here. Never a problem. And my son, who worked in the RV business for 7 years told me that even the mechanics in his shop who winterize campers for a living said people are wasting money and time on this unnecessary chore.

Keep in mind, many people just pay the shop to take care of this because they don't want to deal with it. If they knew about just purging the system with air they might not take their unit to a shop.

No matter what type of RV you have, you can purge every line with air making sure you're good to go for the winter. I do the same thing with my irrigation system, and this is vital so that no pipes, valves, or sprinkler heads break.

And need to mention that even my RV manual gives me the option for both methods, showing how to do either one.

Have either of you actually read the TITLE of this thread ????? "Using compressed air and not using antifreeze" is all well and good but so far out in LEFT FIELD when all you'd needed to do is look at the thread title (How to winterize using the antifreeze method)....

To me, bringing in "But I never use antifreeze, I always use compressed air only" into the instructions on "how to winterize using antifreeze" is similar to a situation where someone is discussing "how to navigate the intercoastal waterway and someone says, "But I only fly, nobody should use a boat"....

THE THREAD TOPIC "how to winterize using antifreeze" should preclude a reasonable person from arguing about oranges in an apples thread" but then .....

That said, like Marshall, I use both air and antifreeze. But again, the topic of the thread isn't about air..... it's about antifreeze.....

Please ask yourselves, have your posts turned this into a "I don't like chocolate ice cream so you shouldn't either" discussion ???? If someone prefers vanilla, isn't it OK for them to not choose chocolate ???? Maybe you "missed the boat"... but then, if you "only fly"....

Sheesh

 

[Inky]

I appreciate your information and have a question with regard to bypass valve. Is there a preferred valve you like. Amazon has cam.. kits ands valer.. kits that include brass valve , adapter and suction hose. I am suspect of the quality of these valves leaking. My Cougar has a water pump fitting that is a male plastic. Can I put a brass fitting directly on this? Or should I use a plastic coupler fitting? Etrailer has a stand alone valve from JR products valve that looks like it may have a stainless ball valve instead of plastic ball valve. Any thoughts? Hope I didn’t violate any product name mentions . Sorry in advance. Newbie. Thanks

 

[JRTJH]

I appreciate your information and have a question with regard to bypass valve. Is there a preferred valve you like. Amazon has cam.. kits ands valer.. kits that include brass valve , adapter and suction hose. I am suspect of the quality of these valves leaking. My Cougar has a water pump fitting that is a male plastic. Can I put a brass fitting directly on this? Or should I use a plastic coupler fitting? Etrailer has a stand alone valve from JR products valve that looks like it may have a stainless ball valve instead of plastic ball valve. Any thoughts? Hope I didn’t violate any product name mentions . Sorry in advance. Newbie. Thanks

If you have a FloJet water pump with the blue "locking tab" connectors, then you don't need (and will have issues connecting) a "screw thread winterization kit"... All you need is a 3' (or longer if you prefer" section of clear 1/2" vinyl hose from Lowe's or Home Depot and one FloJet fitting https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-Port-...67&sprefix=flojet+fitting,aps,459&sr=8-1&th=1 Which costs about $7 at Amazon and about $3 at any RV parts store. I prefer the 90 degree fitting, others prefer the straight fitting. Which fits your pump location best (to clear the wall beside the pump) is what would work best for you. Forget spending $20 on a threaded winterization kit for a FloJet water pump (which is what's installed in about 90% of Keystone trailers....

 

[BeeMagicUSA]

Thanks a lot. Nevertheless, for my camper REM: HI27DBS14 I found no hose to insert/pump an antifreeze as shown on the YouTube instruction, such a hose merely does not exist on my version. It seems my water heater/supply accepts water from a tank I have to fill with a city water. I cannot afford to insert 40 GA of antifreeze in that tank to start running a pump to fill all faucet hoses with antifreeze. And there is no switch on my model to cut off such supply and provide with a short alternative way to deliver antifreeze to the system. I got confused. My camper is 2014 and I though it supposes to have a hose assigned to winterization procedure as well a switch that permits me to pump an antifreeze directly from outside to feel a system. Any suggestions for that matter?

 

[BeeMagicUSA]

Valve

Hello!! Thank you for this thread. To do the bypass on the hot water heater, do I turn both the values. I have one connected to the blue hose and one connected to the red.

Your image clearly shows two valves. My system has only one and that confuses me. As well there is no any sticker to navigate me about OFF or ON. It is only way to understand how it works if you have an experience or somebody show you that at least once. Vertical and horizontal position confuses me. Which one is responsible for what ? That what makes my winterization assignment difficult too.