Hot water

Denise H

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Joined
Jun 17, 2024
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6
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DULUTH
Good morning. I have a 2012 Keystone Sprinter fifth wheel. We replaced the element without a problem however the water temperature is warm at best. Anyone here have an idea how to get the temperature hotter? Much appreciated.
 
Good morning. I have a 2012 Keystone Sprinter fifth wheel. We replaced the element without a problem however the water temperature is warm at best. Anyone here have an idea how to get the temperature hotter? Much appreciated.

Open the outside door of your water heater and get the manufacturer and model and someone may be able to help.
 
Good morning. I have a 2012 Keystone Sprinter fifth wheel. We replaced the element without a problem however the water temperature is warm at best. Anyone here have an idea how to get the temperature hotter? Much appreciated.

A few questions to help clarify. How long did you wait to check the temp on electric? Is it taking longer than it used to take? Have you flushed out the Water Heater lately?
 
We cleaned and flushed the water heater of sediment. Once turning it on it got warm and was still that way the next day. I could take a shower without any cold water added to the hot.
 
Was this different that before changing the heating element or is the camper new to you?
 
We bought the camper new in 2012. The water temperature is different after changing the element. It was much hotter previously.
 
Looks like you have the SW10 series water heater by Suburban

If the water temp was previously hot and now not as hot after changing the heating element I would :

Verify you bought a 120 VAC element and not one for 240 VAC..

Verify the outside wash/Shower station faucets are fully closed

1440 wattage is the spec on the heating element @ 120 VAC

If those items above check good then verify the voltage coming off the 120 side thermostat to the heating element
 
You do know, if you have an outside shower or an outside faucet and you leave the knobs turned on, but the spray shut, the water will mix hot and cold giving you only warm water and never hot. Same for the shower, and anywhere else you can turn the water off but leave the knobs on.

Check outside shower / kitchen / or faucet to make sure both handles are off. Check inside shower or bathtub also for the same.

Start there. Good luck!
 
There is not an outside kitchen or shower. Water only mixes in the kitchen and bathroom sinks. Is there any sort of thermostat for the water temperature?
 
There is not an outside kitchen or shower. Water only mixes in the kitchen and bathroom sinks. Is there any sort of thermostat for the water temperature?


Yes.. Both the 120 Elec mode and LP mode have a thermostat mounted directly on the outside of the unit..

** The value is preset and Not Adjustable... There is also a higher temp thermostat available but you should not need it

Standard is 130 degrees and a 140 degree thermostat is optional and available



I would suggest using the service manual and a multimeter and check the voltage to that thermostat and then to the heating element as I previously stated...

I would also ohm out that new heating element and verify you installed the proper element and not one for 240 VAC..


I would also look at the outlet check valve on the backside of the water heater.. If it doesnt fully open then you will not get a full flow of hot water out of the tank when their is a demand

** If you crack the pressure relief valve and check water temp right there it will tell you if the water temp is 130 or not... if it is then you know you have a sticking outlet check valve on the WH

https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Suburban-Water-Heater-Service-Manual.pdf
 
Last edited:
Did this issue start after de-winterizing? Check the orientation of the water heater by-pass valves.
 
Water temperature has been good for the past couple of months. Last week I noticed the water temperature was warm at best so we replaced the element. Everything went well with the replacement however the temperature is not hot.
 
Considering the age of the unit, when is the last time the hot water heater tank was flushed out? You could simply have the debris from the anode and scale that collects at the bottom of the tank constricting flow.

Shut the hot water heater off, bleed off the pressure, remove the anode plug, and wash the tank out with a garden hose. Reassemble.

Disregard, just reread the entire thread, you already did this!
 
If you have an Atwood water heater, there are two "switches" that regulate temperature. They are located directly under the pressure relief valve and are marked TSTAT and ECO. One or both of those may be your problem. The TSTAT is the thermostat that controls the electric heating element. If it is corroded, defective, worn out after 12-14 years, that's likely your issue. Most RV parts places will have the "TSTAT/ECO block" that is a simple pull and replace as a unit.

If you have a Suburban water heater, in the upper left corner is a black rubber covering. It is marked "RESET". If you pull that cover you'll find 4 "thingies". They are the electric thermostat and limit switch on one side and the propane thermostat and limit switch on the other. From there, it's the same as above. If the thermostat is worn/defective/corroded, etc, that's your problem...

If nothing else has changed and if you've checked the shower, outside shower, outside kitchen (the last two you said you don't have), and if you've replaced the heating element and it was the correct 1440 watts@120VAC, then about the only other problem would point to either the electric thermostat or the electric upper limit switch.
 
JRTJH

We have picked up the Suburban water heater t-stat 120 volt part and put that in. That was the problem we have hot water now. Thank you
 
JRTJH

We have picked up the Suburban water heater t-stat 120 volt part and put that in. That was the problem we have hot water now. Thank you

GOOD DEAL !!!!! Enjoy "standing in that hot shower" (at least for the 3 minutes until the hot water runs out) LOL

Glad you got it working again....
 
Might have an 220V element instead if a 120V element. Will act just as you say.
 

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