Furnace not working

Jeannie3293

New Member
Joined
May 13, 2020
Messages
9
Location
Rochester
Hi, My name is Jeannie and I have a 2017 Keystone Cougar bunkhouse and my furnace has stopped working...I got it to run for about 30 seconds but then it stopped again. Any tips or tricks? I'm really hoping because I cant get it to the dealership
 
Two questions to start. Do you have propane, i.e. does the water heater work on GA, the stove top works, all burners at the same time with good steady blue flame?

Are you connected to shore power or just battery?
 
Yes, I have propane, I even hooked it up too a brand new tank. It's like it lights for a few seconds and then it goes out and the furnace stops. I can hear it. Also I'm connected to the power here.
 
I wonder if the overtemp sensor is kicking in? Your fan is running, right?

My own furnace failed this winter, no ignition; I brought it in to the dealer for repair assuming it was a sail switch problem, and when he called me to pick it up, he told me the indoor portion needed to be cleaned, and I was supposed to do that every year. Probably doesn't help that we travel with a minimum of two retrievers. He was supposed to show me how to clean it myself, but I ended up having to pick it up during the stay-at-home period, so he didn't do it. But I know it involves unscrewing the wooden grid under the fridge; after that, I suppose I'll have to guess where to run a vacuum, or something. Anyway maybe that's something else you could try.
 
Yes, I have propane, I even hooked it up too a brand new tank. It's like it lights for a few seconds and then it goes out and the furnace stops. I can hear it. Also I'm connected to the power here.

First, Is this a NEW problem with the furnace? In other words, has it worked in the past and is this something that just happened, like "after you changed to the new propane bottle" ??? If so, I'd disconnect the new propane bottle, then reconnect it, SLOWLY open the valve on the propane bottle and try again. Sometimes, the "safety valve" in the propane bottle will activate, slowing propane flow to only a trickle. It's enough to operate the stovetop but not enough to operate the furnace or water heater.

If this is an "ongoing problem" with a history that goes back to before the propane bottle change, then there would be a different approach.

So.... Try reconnecting the propane bottle and let us know what happens...
 
I have been worried about routine maintenance, nobody mentioned anything at the dealership when we bought the trailer. But home furnaces need filter replacement and things, does the trailer? And where should I vacuum?
 
There is no filter in an RV furnace. In fact, the owner's manual warns not to restrict the air input with a filter. The "furnace interior" is sealed and there's no need (in normal conditions) to open it for cleaning or maintenance. If anything, remove the wooden grill over the furnace area, vacuum the visible spaces, reinstall the grill and keep on RVing.
 
Since you've already checked and confirmed your propane, I would hazard a guess that the sail switch is not operating normally. What is likely happening is that the furnace attempts to start for thirty seconds and then stops.

The sail switch is inside of the furnace unit and is a safety device that is checked during furnace operation. When the furnace initially starts, the fan is run to clear any propane that may have leaked by the furnace propane valve for the first thirty seconds. At the end of that timed period, the sail switch is checked to see if it has changed state due to the air flow going past it. During normal operation, the switch changes states within a very short period due to the air flow and at the end of the timer, the ignition is started (generally a loud ticking sound) and the propane is admitted into the combustion chamber. If the sail switch doesn't change states during the timed period, a fault signal is generated which results in the ignition not being turn on, the propane valve is not opened, the fan is turned off and on some units, an error LED being ordered to flash in a predetermined sequence to indicate the fault of the sail switch. Take it to a shop for diagnosis/repair.

If you are hearing the ticking sound (should last for a couple of seconds) after the thirty second clearing of the combustion chamber, the furnace propane valve is not opening or you inadvertently set the propane regulator safety valve that was mentioned in the 5th post. If the slow reopening of the propane cylinder doesn't correct the problem, take it to a shop for diagnosis/repair.

Cheers!
 
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Not to discourage you from trying to TS and fix your furnace issues .. but if you don’t have some good mechanical and electrical skill sets you will be money ahead to have your issue looked at by service center or mobile RV tech....

The sail switch and hi limit switch as well as control board are all buried inside the furnace casing and will require removal of furnace to TS and repair..
 
Most common problem when the fan blows but nothing fires, and then the fan quits, is the sail switch. Here's a short video explaining it:

On my Montana High Country, here's where the sail switch is, also the board is right in front. No need to remove to access it, except the cover held on by 8 screws.

uuGUVBO.jpg
 
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also on mine there is a on/off/reset breaker. Located below the sail switch. If reset switch is soft it has tripped. Reset or turn off and back on.
 
If it's firing and then turning off it's not the sail switch. In fact, all of the pre-ignition stuff is fine. The issue is post-ignition. That's fuel flow, air flow, flame sensor, etc. A visual inspection may reveal something blocking air flow but you still may need to remove the igniter to really see it. You might benefit from blowing some compressed air in and around the igniter. Short of that it will take some special equipment to test fuel flow which might point to a faulty regulator. Likely time to take it to a pro.

Edit: Mine briefly did the same thing. I took it apart to inspect the igniter and its distance to the propane manifold, put it all back together and it's been working fine. Sometimes just jiggling some of the wire connections can correct a weak contact point.
 
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furnace on/off/reset switch

Our furnace keeps tripping this breaker. If i reset it it works for a day, maybe two then stops. Any suggestions as to why this is happening?
 
Most furnaces are not a DIY project. Most furnaces require complete removal from the RV and benched tested and worked on. If you do not have a removable outside access door then you need a mobile RV Tech. And If you don't have and know how to use a voltmeter you need a Mobile RV tech. Do not take it to a dealer.
 
Why is that?

I agree. Dealers take forever to deal with. Get to know a good mobile tech. Either by word of mouth or on your own. I'm sure you're problem will be fixed quicker and quite possibly cheaper. Also most dealers want you to bring your rv to them, what a hassle. Much easier to find someone to come and fix it where you're parked .
 
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