Front A/C Cycling Issues?

Spurlock

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Joined
May 21, 2025
Posts
17
Okay, grab a drink and just bear with me while I try to explain my issue.
2020 Keystone Cougar 368 MBI with 2 Dometic A/C units, fully ducted and operated off InCommand system.

We purchased this 5th wheel over the winter and during a trip in March on a warmer day we realized the front bedroom A/C was cycling off/on a lot. It would run for 15 minutes or so then cut off, cut back on for 30 seconds then back off ect ect. Took it to dealer after the trip and the running capacitor was bad so they replaced it and said it was good to go.
We're now on our first summer trip (We live in Georgia) And its been mid 80's to low 90's during the day (60-65 at night) and the rig has done a wonderful job at staying cool during the day (we keep them set at 74 during the day). First night we set the rear AC to 72 on AUTO fan. It stayed between 70-72 all night and never came on but a few times. HERE IS MY ISSUE- The bedroom A/C i set to 70 (when we went to bed it was 72 so didn't think there would an issue with 70) and it ran for about 20 minutes, got to 71 and cut off. Then 1 minute later it would turn back on, compressor kicks on for 5 seconds then compressor kicks off and unit turns off. 1 minute later, unit comes on, compressor kicks on, runs perfectly for 5-6 minutes, then cuts off. I check temp on my InCommand App and its 71 but set to 72. It does this for over and hour and i can't sleep so i change the setting to 71 since its 71 in the room. 20 minutes goes by, turns on and proceeds to do the same routine. Comes on, compressor kicks on and runs fine for 5 minutes and cuts off, room shows 72 but set on 71 so 1 minute later it comes back on, compressor kicks on then 5 seconds later compressor kicks off and unit goes off. The air is cold, it works fine...But i think there is something wonky with the temp sensor or something?

Basically, it the heat of the day or if the unit has some work to do to get to the set temp it runs great. But when it gets close to the temp its set at, it is losing its mind. I have no idea why it would come on and the compressor kick on and off in 5 seconds, then come right back on and run fine.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm to the point where i may just set the rear A/C lower and cut the bedroom one off at night. You would think it would come up and cool the room off good and just cut off. But the short cycles are what makes it impossible to sleep ..
 
Do you have the unit set for the fan to run continuously or cycle on and off? It sounds like the differential is set to close. A 4° spread is as close as I like.I don't know if that setting is available on the in-command or not. I've read that some some units the thermocouple that senses the air temp is installed in the return air plenum and has caused some issues.
 
Do you have the unit set for the fan to run continuously or cycle on and off? It sounds like the differential is set to close. A 4° spread is as close as I like.I don't know if that setting is available on the in-command or not. I've read that some some units the thermocouple that senses the air temp is installed in the return air plenum and has caused some issues.

On the In Command the fan choices are only Auto, High and Low. Auto it will run on high until it gets to within a few degrees of set point then go to low. But if the A/C is not on, the fan doesn't run. On low or high the fan always runs at that speed, but the compressor will only kick on when needed.
I dont have any clue about changing the differential set point. I can check and see if the in command has the option.

I do have 3 air temp sensors mounted inside the rig- One is in main living area, one is in stairway to bedroom and one is in the bedroom.
 
Our unit has a cheap mechanical thermostate that functions like your in-command. I've found that running the a/c fan on high keeps the air circulating and is the most efficient mode for us. The low setting IMO is usesless. Set on low I don't find much of a reduction in the noise and I think the a/c unit needs all the help it can get to maintain the temperature set point. Another factor to me is I prefer to have the tv volume set to compensate for a constant background noise as constantly adjusting the volume. That's just my personal preference.

I would try running the fan on high and see if it continues to short cycle.
 
You cannot change the differential setting with the In Command control ..

Each AC unit has a Gateway.. the gateway is located stuck down inside the EVAP coil area inside the ducting ..

Gateway is basically a thermostat that controls whether the AC unit runs or not based on setting from the In Com,and display

What you are experiencing appears to be “Short cycling “.. I would be checking the placement of the freeze sensor on that BR AC unit and make sure it’s in the proper position. ( I dont know which AC unit ) you habe for the BR but if you let the group know we can show you a picture of where freeze sensor should be

Also.. the gateway for each AC unit has a remote temp sensor located in the same area as each AC unit… this is a small black plastic cover mounted on a wall..

If the remote temp sensor is not properly mounted then it will not correctly sense the actual room ambient air temp and instead will sense the temp from inside the wall

Pics of remote temp sensor and proper placement . If the holes in the wall is really large then block off the hole to prevent air inside t(e wall interfering with the remote temp sensors
 

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Using the KISS process, it almost sounds like you might have an outlet duct blowing cold air onto the bedroom sensor mounted behind that little "plastic faceplate"... If so, you can turn the duct outlet faceplate to adjust the airflow away from that sensor.... When you look at where it's currently pointing, remember that it may be "initially blowing away from the sensor" but if whatever it's pointed at is acting as a deflector, it may simply be "rerouting the cold air back to the sensor" as it deflects off the vanity or even the wall or window valence ... Stand back and study where the air is really going, not just where the outlet is pointed... Hopefully it's an easy fix by either adjusting the depth of the sensor behind the plastic faceplate or reaiming the register cover.... Maybe this isn't the problem, but sure beats the trailer sitting at the dealership for a month while they schedule an appointment....
 
You cannot change the differential setting with the In Command control ..

Each AC unit has a Gateway.. the gateway is located stuck down inside the EVAP coil area inside the ducting ..

Gateway is basically a thermostat that controls whether the AC unit runs or not based on setting from the In Com,and display

What you are experiencing appears to be “Short cycling “.. I would be checking the placement of the freeze sensor on that BR AC unit and make sure it’s in the proper position. ( I dont know which AC unit ) you habe for the BR but if you let the group know we can show you a picture of where freeze sensor should be

Also.. the gateway for each AC unit has a remote temp sensor located in the same area as each AC unit… this is a small black plastic cover mounted on a wall..

If the remote temp sensor is not properly mounted then it will not correctly sense the actual room ambient air temp and instead will sense the temp from inside the wall

Pics of remote temp sensor and proper placement . If the holes in the wall is really large then block off the hole to prevent air inside t(e wall interfering with the remote temp sensors
thank you for all the great info here.

The BR unit is a Dometic Brisk II unit.

I will check the temp sensor location this evening when i get to the RV.
 
You cannot change the differential setting with the In Command control ..

Each AC unit has a Gateway.. the gateway is located stuck down inside the EVAP coil area inside the ducting ..

Gateway is basically a thermostat that controls whether the AC unit runs or not based on setting from the In Com,and display

What you are experiencing appears to be “Short cycling “.. I would be checking the placement of the freeze sensor on that BR AC unit and make sure it’s in the proper position. ( I dont know which AC unit ) you habe for the BR but if you let the group know we can show you a picture of where freeze sensor should be

Also.. the gateway for each AC unit has a remote temp sensor located in the same area as each AC unit… this is a small black plastic cover mounted on a wall..

If the remote temp sensor is not properly mounted then it will not correctly sense the actual room ambient air temp and instead will sense the temp from inside the wall

Pics of remote temp sensor and proper placement . If the holes in the wall is really large then block off the hole to prevent air inside t(e wall interfering with the remote temp sensors

Inspected the temp sensors, they all look perfectly installed just like your picture shows.
It’s got the be the freeze sensor maybe? So we’re camping local to my home right now on a lake. Have the camper here for 3 weeks and we commute as we want to. We had to be home the past two days so we came back late this afternoon and turned both the ac units from 75 to 72. It’s only about 84 here today and we’re in a nice shaded spot so I knew it wouldn’t take long to cool down. 30 minutes later the main living room unit was already down to 72 and cut off. Then I heard the compressor on the BR unit kick off, checked temp and it showed 73 (but set at 72). And it cuts off. 1 minute later, cuts on again and compressor kicks on again. Doing it all over again 🤦‍♂️
 
You cannot change the differential setting with the In Command control ..

Each AC unit has a Gateway.. the gateway is located stuck down inside the EVAP coil area inside the ducting ..

Gateway is basically a thermostat that controls whether the AC unit runs or not based on setting from the In Com,and display

What you are experiencing appears to be “Short cycling “.. I would be checking the placement of the freeze sensor on that BR AC unit and make sure it’s in the proper position. ( I dont know which AC unit ) you habe for the BR but if you let the group know we can show you a picture of where freeze sensor should be

Also.. the gateway for each AC unit has a remote temp sensor located in the same area as each AC unit… this is a small black plastic cover mounted on a wall..

If the remote temp sensor is not properly mounted then it will not correctly sense the actual room ambient air temp and instead will sense the temp from inside the wall

Pics of remote temp sensor and proper placement . If the holes in the wall is really large then block off the hole to prevent air inside t(e wall interfering with the remote temp sensors
IMG_1787.jpeg
 
UPDATE
Now my BR unit will not come on at all. Nothing. No fan, no ac. Nothing. Nothing tripped. I reset everything and still nothing.
 
Did you do a Hard reset? This means removing battery power and shore power or turn of the circuit breaker to the comverter ..

Then connect battery power and shore power

If BR AC won’t respond in any mode ( Lo or Hi fan, etc ) then use a multi,enter and verify you actually have 12 VDC to the gateway power plug itself
 
No continuity
 

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That is the EOL "end of line" resistor that tells the CANBUS circuit that is the last item in the loop... Its about a 130 ohm resistor that is simply covered with shrink tubing....
 
That is the EOL "end of line" resistor that tells the CANBUS circuit that is the last item in the loop... It’s about a 130 ohm resistor that is simply covered with shrink tubing....

So I’m assuming that is the reason that nothing will power on now, correct? Would it indicate the happenings of anything else?
 
Is the resistor open? If it is then yes it could be your issue. I've seen comms work intermittently with no EOL resistor but it typically would be an issue.
 
UPDATE-
Shop got my RV in this morning and got Keystone on the phone. Keystone then called Dometic and everyone seams to think the temp sensor in the wall is the problem. They confirmed there isn't a gateway on front unit and everything thats going tells them the temp sensor is bad...
Not sure why the fan wouldn't even come on...But I guess its worth trying that next?
 
I've read so many of these threads so I don't remember but if you have InCommand and an AC that is interactive on InCommand there has to be a gateway. If this is not the case please disregard.
 
If that AC won’t do anything either ther is no 12 VDC and 120 VAC to contr9l board and gateway

If you have In Command there is a gateway

The Dometic Penguin and brisk air 2 units typically have built in CANBUS on the air conditioner control board and NO gateways when used with CCC2 thermostat

You showed and EOL resistor in your hand .. that was on a gateway
 

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