E-Bike Mount

[workinonit]

I find very few manufactured items anymore that are adequate right out of the box. Most things I buy need to be beefed up or redesigned in some way. Simply put, it's a bike rack. If it's like my RV the hitch on the RV and the receiver are more than enough to handle the weight of 2 bikes. What doesn't work well is that single point connection carrying a vertical load with the whole thing flopping around because of the slop in the 2" tubing slid into the 2-1/2" tubing. That's why the harmonics are cautioned against. That's why I built mine like I did and believe me it is rock solid.

 

[JRTJH]

CURT Hitch company has a statement in their trailer hitch installation instructions that any non trailer use of the receiver (cargo rack or bike rack) is not approved for use unless the 18050 STABILIZING STRAPS are also used. Any "non trailer load" on the receiver without the stabilizing straps will void the receiver warranty.

So, not only is there a concern with the bike rack movement from the bike rack manufacturer, there's also a concern with the receiver manufacturer (at least with CURT). CURT limits any non trailer use that is not stabilized with straps that prevent lateral movement.

https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/13703/installsheet/13703_INS.pdf

 

[Canonman]

OK
I'm gonna be "that guy".
"A ship in a harbour is safe but that is not what ships are built for"
All manufacturer's have language in their published materials to protect them from the potential that something might happen if someone uses their product.
I personally don't want to live in "Failure Avoidance Mode". In other words, don't do anything because it might go wrong mode.
I wanted the most secure way to bring our bikes with us camping. I researched the best options and installed the best equipment to accomplish that goal.
I take reasonable care and caution checking that everything is tight and the load secure before and during travel.
We enjoy camping and having our bikes available to use and enjoy as well.
I tried the totally worthless Lippert cargo rack/bike carrier that was installed by Keystone, knew it was not the way to go and scrapped it for the set up we have now. I'm confident after a couple thousand miles of traveling that what we have now is safe. I still check all the securing points on the rack and the hitch at every stop. I also check the 5th wheel hitch and tires for any visible problems as well. When I pull out onto the road, I'm 100% confident I've done everything I can to insure a safe trip. Yet, something can still go wrong. Flat tire, broken shackle, bearing problem who knows. But I'm still going camping!
In the end good judgement and common sense are the best tools we have to minimize the chance for problems.
Hope this doesn't offend, just my .02

 

[JRTJH]

OK
I'm gonna be "that guy".
"A ship in a harbour is safe but that is not what ships are built for"
All manufacturer's have language in their published materials to protect them from the potential that something might happen if someone uses their product.
I personally don't want to live in "Failure Avoidance Mode". In other words, don't do anything because it might go wrong mode.
I wanted the most secure way to bring our bikes with us camping. I researched the best options and installed the best equipment to accomplish that goal.
I take reasonable care and caution checking that everything is tight and the load secure before and during travel.
We enjoy camping and having our bikes available to use and enjoy as well.
I tried the totally worthless Lippert cargo rack/bike carrier that was installed by Keystone, knew it was not the way to go and scrapped it for the set up we have now. I'm confident after a couple thousand miles of traveling that what we have now is safe. I still check all the securing points on the rack and the hitch at every stop. I also check the 5th wheel hitch and tires for any visible problems as well. When I pull out onto the road, I'm 100% confident I've done everything I can to insure a safe trip. Yet, something can still go wrong. Flat tire, broken shackle, bearing problem who knows. But I'm still going camping!
In the end good judgement and common sense are the best tools we have to minimize the chance for problems.
Hope this doesn't offend, just my .02

Oak,

I think we all (or at least most of us) feel much the same as you do. We all use our equipment with the understanding that it might fail and we might suffer damage or loss of some kind from that failure.

The issue, isn't that it might fail, rather the issue, at least for me, is ignoring (or not realizing) that the manufacturer has issued a warning/caution against using their product for some specific purpose for which it was not intended. In this case, it's using a bike rack, designed to mount on the back of a car or truck and installing it on the back of a trailer, expecting that the physical stresses on the bike rack will be the same. The stressors are different and the potential for failure is greater. Not knowing that can cause someone to believe one thing, expect something that's different to be the same or worse, wind up with a failure without even knowing that there's a difference in the way they are using the product than for what it was built....

Sort of like buying a "Cougar Half Ton 38' fifth wheel and expecting a old Ford F 100 "six banger" to be enough truck to tow it because it's a "half ton trailer"... Trying to tow that if you understand the limitations is one thing. Putting your family in "harm's way" because you're "blissfully ignorant of the reality of what you're doing" is yet something entirely different...

Sure, a bike rack mounted on a trailer isn't likely to be as critical as a severely overloaded F 100 "six banger", but both do share some similarities if the owner is "blissfully ignorant of the facts"....

That, I believe, is the crux of this thread's discussion.... It's not a thread about "Don't do it, you'll die" rather it's a thread about "Know the risks, mitigate those you can and keep an eye on those you can't" .... YMMV

 

[workinonit]

Oak,

I think we all (or at least most of us) feel much the same as you do. We all use our equipment with the understanding that it might fail and we might suffer damage or loss of some kind from that failure.

The issue, isn't that it might fail, rather the issue, at least for me, is ignoring (or not realizing) that the manufacturer has issued a warning/caution against using their product for some specific purpose for which it was not intended. In this case, it's using a bike rack, designed to mount on the back of a car or truck and installing it on the back of a trailer, expecting that the physical stresses on the bike rack will be the same. The stressors are different and the potential for failure is greater. Not knowing that can cause someone to believe one thing, expect something that's different to be the same or worse, wind up with a failure without even knowing that there's a difference in the way they are using the product than for what it was built....

Sort of like buying a "Cougar Half Ton 38' fifth wheel and expecting a old Ford F 100 "six banger" to be enough truck to tow it because it's a "half ton trailer"... Trying to tow that if you understand the limitations is one thing. Putting your family in "harm's way" because you're "blissfully ignorant of the reality of what you're doing" is yet something entirely different...

Sure, a bike rack mounted on a trailer isn't likely to be as critical as a severely overloaded F 100 "six banger", but both do share some similarities if the owner is "blissfully ignorant of the facts"....

That, I believe, is the crux of this thread's discussion.... It's not a thread about "Don't do it, you'll die" rather it's a thread about "Know the risks, mitigate those you can and keep an eye on those you can't" .... YMMV

You can find a reason or documentation warning you to not do just about anything you want to add or do to your RV. It's nothing but CYA 90% of the time. Throw in the safety police on these forums and you would never make a mod to anything and likely just leave it parked and look at it. I've been hanging stuff off of my receivers for 50 years. I may drop something on the highway tomorrow but I haven't so far. I think you are perfectly safe hauling your bikes. Strap them down and ride.

 

[sourdough]

I think you are perfectly safe hauling your bikes. Strap them down and ride.

.
Sort of like buying a "Cougar Half Ton 38' fifth wheel and expecting a old Ford F 100 "six banger" to be enough truck to tow it because it's a "half ton trailer"... YMMV

workinonit - you ever watched one of those cargo racks with any kind of weight on them? I have many times and it's a scary scene most of the time. I've seen them loaded then strapped off to ladders, the bumper, up under the trailer to the frame etc. They teeter totter back and forth, droop and generally look like they really want to be on the pavement vs carrying anything heavy.
The issue isn't "worrying about everything so you just don't move the trailer", it's about understanding the limitations of the components you are dealing with and staying within the confines of those parameters instead of just saying to heck with it, let's see what happens. Safety is paramount when towing and waiting to see if an ebike that fell off that wobbling carrier, skidding down the highway at 65mph is going to flip up and go through the windshield of the guy following you....or the next lane....is not the way to do it.

John say it ain't so!! An old Ford F 100 six banger can't pull anything it wants to??? I'm devastated! I had a '59 F 100 that had a 250 or 300 (can't remember) straight six - I loved that thing. Overstuffed the seat with nice thick foam, covered with a new, SO SOFT, black vinyl cover....it was like sitting in an old overstuffed chair. 3 on the tree and I hooked it to most anything I came across (have to admit I never dreamed of a 5th wheel....or an RV of any kind in those days - I barely had enough money for a can of chicken noodle soup). I will admit though that it had its limits.....and I ended up toasting the engine and having to rebuild it - to your point.

 

[wiredgeorge]

I had a few older Ford half tons with the 300 CID 6 with a one barrel carburetor and tiny gas tank. They were definitely gas hogs. Engine was OK but very very thirsty.

 

[Canonman]

"you ever watched one of those cargo racks with any kind of weight on them? I have many times and it's a scary scene most of the time."

Of course, we've all seen this going down the road and worse.
The problem is that folks don't use good common sense or reasonable care when deciding how they are going to carry their loads either on the back of the RV or sometimes in the back of the truck.
I loaded a manufacturer provided rack with our bikes (Lippert has since discontinued this rack). Thought it looked OK, but when I checked that load 100 miles later I found out it wasn't. Resecured (layed the bikes flat on top of each other) and rechecked at another 100 miles and considered everything good for the rest of the trip. That's when I scrapped the Keystone "crap rack" and installed what we have now. Set up is solid as a rock with no wiggle or jiggle.
Bottom line, use common sense when deciding how to carry any load and recheck the load at every stop to make sure it is still secure. Research the best equipment and methods for the load you are carrying. I recommend a live conversation with a specialty shop that can offer real life advice and options.
Finally, don't be this guy :
https://www.tiktok.com/@charlieberens/video/7234930224134229291?lang=en

 

[flyingjack]

workinonit: I use similar: two ebikes/rack on factory frame 2" receiver plus a 1 1/4" bolt on receiver on one end of the rack. Over three years/20K miles with camera looking at bikes=no issue.

 

[sourdough]

workinonit: I use similar: two ebikes/rack on factory frame 2" receiver plus a 1 1/4" bolt on receiver on one end of the rack. Over three years/20K miles with camera looking at bikes=no issue.

The highlighted above is critical IMO if a person carries anything on the back of their trailer.

 

[Bliss53]

We have two e-bikes and tried to carry them with a kuat and then a 1up rack on the back of a passport 2870L. The rear view camera showed them bouncing around like crazy. The weight of the bikes and rack moves like they are on a kind of spring board that starts at the trailer axles and extends out to the end of bike rack. We ended up getting a tailgate pad and carry them in the bed of our GMC 2500. No more nervous camera watching. They are heavy to hoist up into the bed but with some trial and error the loading and unloading is manageable.

 

[daywood]

workinonit: I use similar: two ebikes/rack on factory frame 2" receiver plus a 1 1/4" bolt on receiver on one end of the rack. Over three years/20K miles with camera looking at bikes=no issue.

I’m intrigued by this. Do you have a photo of how you use the second receiver to steady the rack? Thanks!

 

[workinonit]

I’m intrigued by this. Do you have a photo of how you use the second receiver to steady the rack? Thanks!

I do. Go see my post 15 in this thread and pics of what I built are there. I used 3 receivers but 2 would have worked just as good just not symmetrical.

 

[masterc]

I just carry my bikes in the truck bed, but I have seen TT's with these and talked to the owners who tell me they are much more stable than the rear mounted ones. They are pricey though. Just passing it along as a suggestion.

https://www.amazon.com/Futura-GP-Electric-Trailer-Reicever/dp/B09GH9GZ5K?ref_=ast_sto_dp

 

[Wantoride]

We also have 2 lectric bikes. We fold them and put them in the back of the truck useing trash can lids to slide them in and out easier. Or we fold them and put them in the trailer if we have stuff in the bed of the truck. I wouldn’t trust any rack on the Rv. You hit a bump and that 120 lbs turns into a lot more.

 

[Mikelff]

Hello All- We have a 2018 outback that came with the rear mounted cargo rack. The rack is frame welded and is listed as having a 200lb capacity. To date we have used it to bring all sorts of items, but now I'm looking to use it for our 2 e-bikes. We have the Lectric XP2.0's with 3" fat tires so my thought was to find some sort of wheel chock for both the front and rear tire of each bike, bolt it to the cargo rack, and then ratchet strap the bikes down. Any thoughts? Anyone have or see better solutions for hauling heavy (60 ish LB's) bikes? I have a cap on the truck bed so we have been folding them and hauling them that way but it's really a pain to pack around and we would much prefer them loaded to the camper. Thanks in advance!

I have a three wheeler fat tire e-bike and I put it on my rack in the back of my 5er. This rack that is mounted to the frame and sits on the bumper is rated for 250 lbs, but it can definitely hold more than that. I don’t over load it regardless. My rack will bounce as there is play between the bumper and rack. I added rubber bumpers to the bottom of the rack besides the bumpers that were OEM. This does help with vibration and bounce. I use ratchet straps on the rack and tighten the rack to the bumper of the 5er. This really helps with the rack bounce. Then I load the bike on the rack and use ratchet straps to secure it to the rack. I remove the battery from the bike and keep that in the truck. I also let some air out of the tires to soften them up a bit. For me it was all about reducing hard bouncing and vibration. It still have some bounce from the 5er frame itself as the whole rig has bounce just traveling, but can’t do much about that. Never had any damage and actually rides quite well, but I do a lot to stop bounce between the 5er frame and the rack. My rack rests about 50% on the bumper of the 5er, so I have that support to strap to and greatly reduce bounce due to play on the rack and 5er. If you have bumper support this might work for you. Be sure to remove your batteries if you think this might work for you. Best of luck.

 

[P&DZ]

Our Cougar 21RBSWE also has a slide out rear rack rated at 200lbs, but I did not trust the rack or the bumper to carry two Trek Verve 4 e-bikes at 55 lbs each. So I modified the rack. First I removed the rack from the camper and tossed the cheap plastic tray. Next cut out the two 1.5 inch steel L brackets running front to rear on either side of center. Replaced the L brackets with a single 2" steel tube centered and welded front and back. Strengthened the two side members by welding triangle members. To mount the bike rack we added two steel plates on either side of the center bracket welded far enough forward from the rear of the camper to avoid the handlebars from contacting the rear of the camper. This modified receiver has three holes for adjustment and a top plate which bolts down over the bike rack hitch arm. Lastly added one additional bracket to each side of the camper frame and replaced the 1/2' pins with 1/2" bolts/washers/lock nuts to secure the pull out rack to the camper frame. We mount a two bike Swagman bike rack rated for e-bikes and RV Campers purchased from e-trailer to the welded receiver on the modified pull out rack. The bike rack can be easily mounted and removed. We towed 4,000 miles last summer through Colorado, Wyoming, Montana and Canada with this setup and no problems. It was a bit of work, took some engineering but it is very solid and we can still transport our kayaks in the bed of the truck.

 

[DutchmenSport]

We had an Outback for over 5 years and it also had the welded receiver hitch. It was factory welded to the bumper and then ran under the back of the trailer, 2 more cross members across the main trailer frame and then the rest of the receiver hitch was welded to that.

I had a cargo carrier we hauled and built a wooden frame for it to transport our 3 wheeled adult tricycle. I never had an issue with the hitch.

Consider how it's welded or installed. If the hitch is simply attached to the bumper, then absolutely do not do it. If the hitch run under the trailer and has additional supporting cross members, then you are probably OK.