Buying used...input requested :)

HappilyE

New Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2024
Posts
7
Location
Perkiomenville
Very glad to have found this forum and thank you for your help in advance. I am interested in purchasing, later today, a 2010 Express light. It's been sitting most of its existence. Excellent price, i believe, at 2850. Couldn't find any soft or wet spots and I'm going today to check all the systems. It does have as you can see from the pictures trim that has failed front passenger side, and I'm expecting to get that replaced and all the seams recaulked.. Any input as to this trim failure and what to expect potentially in the future or underneath that failure would be greatly appreciated. The trailer does come with a fresh Pennsylvania state inspection, new battery and new tires. Would also appreciate input on price. Oh, and the TV is toast. Recommendations appreciated.

Happy trails.
 

Attachments

  • 20240715_180026.jpg
    20240715_180026.jpg
    409.4 KB · Views: 55
  • 20240715_175949.jpg
    20240715_175949.jpg
    286.1 KB · Views: 68
  • 20240715_180006.jpg
    20240715_180006.jpg
    352.6 KB · Views: 59
  • 20240715_180037.jpg
    20240715_180037.jpg
    253 KB · Views: 56
Congratulations on your new to you RV.

Looking at your photos, that front curbside molding could be almost anything from a "missing/sun damaged vinyl screw cover strip" to a completely failed and water damaged front panel caused by a water leak at the roof/front panel joiner strip (which is a known problem area with that type construction)....

The question: "Why is there white tape on the aluminum molding?" should be thoroughly investigated. It could be absolutely no concern about the trailer or it could mean a total rebuild of the front wall.....

Crawl on the roof and inspect that front joiner strip, usually a galvanized molding strip that's heavily sealed with self leveling roof sealant. The trailer was built prior to the introduction of TPO roof membrane, and probably has EPDM (rubber) roof membrane. You can verify that by removing the inside "garnish ring" from one of the roof vents. They are plastic with 4 screws, one in each corner that hold it in place. Once the garnish ring is removed, you'll see the roof membrane, cut in triangles and stapled to the vent framing. Look at the membrane to determine if it's EPDM. If it is, it will be a black membrane with a thin white top surface. The best sealant to use with an EPDM membrane is DICOR Self Leveling Sealant. It is available at any RV store. DO NOT USE LOWE'S OR HOME DEPOT SEALANT because most are not compatible with your EPDM or TPO roof membrane.

Again congratulations on your trailer and hopefully there's just a vinyl screw cover strip that's "flapping in the wind" with no water damage behind it.....

ADDED: And, just a reminder that many/most of the "super-lite" or "ultra-lite" trailers of that era that did not have a ladder to access the roof were built with very thin OSB or luan roof decking which will not support someone walking on the roof. So before you lay a ladder against the side and crawl up onto the roof, make sure that the roof is "walkable" and that will also factor in your weight (or the weight of who will be doing the rooftop maintenance/inspections. There's a significant difference in a "walkable roof" for someone 125 pounds and someone who is 350 pounds.....
 
Last edited:
Very helpful information. Fortunately I'm on the lighter side and I will be extremely careful with the roof. I did look up the construction and it is a rubber roof. Epdm. I'm going to pull that tape off and inspect the vinyl screw cover strip as you suggest it and see if that's all I have. I could find no soft spot on the front when probing inside or out but I'm going to do everything I can to make sure I don't have a big job. Again, many thanks and appreciate it more than you know
 
If that tape is "Eternabond" you will have a hard time pulling some back. On the inside, look carefully at the seam where the tape is on the outside. The suggestion to look at the top front transition seam between front cap and roof is also critical. That is a normal spot where there are problems. If you get the trailer, re-seal the roof ASAP. Check all systems... make sure the refrigerator/freezer is COLD as the parts can be expensive to repair. It would be good to connect to a water source and check the plumbing under cabinets for a leak. It takes time to check all the systems so you might want to hire a professional RV inspection person if this is your first foray into RVing.
 
That front cap looks like deamination to me. From the 2 different tapes on the sidewall joint my guess is the previous owner was chasing down a leak for some time. When sealing the top seam, Don't forget to seal the clearance lights front and back. I would suspect there's water damage and you likely will smell a "musty or moldy" odor.

I would also carefully inspect the integrity of every roof and wall penetration. The door, outside storage doors, windows, stove top exhaust fan (if so equiped), and slide seals should be inspected. Make certain you scrutinize it well before handing oner money. As for price, I'd suggest doing a search with the year, make and model and "near me" or "for sale" to see a range of fair market values. Bear in mind that if that front cap is damaged the value of a 14 to 15 year old would not likely make the replacement financially viable
 

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top