Break Away Cable.....

John,

I had just found your explanation on this topic from November 2012 and it was explained very well.

Thank You
You're very welcome. I often forget about those old threads. Many times we "reinvent the wheel" with a new thread that rehashes old info. Whether it's a new discussion or a "reminder of older threads" if the info gets out to those who weren't around "back when dinosaurs roamed the earth" then we're all a little bit better informed and where safety is concerned, if it prevents even one accident, it's worth the time and effort..... Here's the link to that thread for anyone who couldn't find it: Breakaway cable
 
Not to beat a dead horse but rereading the post John linked to shook off some cobwebs in my dusty brain. The memory was an event that occured about 8 yrs ago. One of my BILs called me about an issue with his old Furd Excursion that he used to tow his 30' Jayco. He hitched up in the driveway and when he pulled forward heard a load bang. The Excursion lunched forward and he hit the brakes. In his rear view mirror there was his trailer still hitched to the hitch that was no longer connected to his trailer.

The hitch had pulled straight away from the rusted frame. When he told me this it reminded me of an event about 3 hrs prior. We were camping and ready to leave a cg when he came over to our site and said his brakes ha failed. I went over and looked under his TV and spotted a wet spot. The brake line to the rear brakes has rusted thru. I drove him into town and luckily found an auto pats store with one in stock.

After finishing restoring his brakes I told him to get the Excursion on a lift and thurolly inspect it underneath. We'll of course he didn't because he's cheap and doesn't like receiving bad news. So the point is, teher the break-cable to a KNOWN good location. And while you are identifying that location inspect the hitch/frame attachment.
 
OK !!!
This was eye opening!
I just ckd my break cable and found it to be the lingth as the chains, so I backed the truck up and snapped the cains on and pulled foreward until they where tight and the cable was not tight enough to pull out in my opinion.
How muchshorter should I go 1 to 2 inches?
I think the best way to do this is to remount the switch further back on the frame!
Come on talk to me, I have thick skin!

Don:bowdown:
 
I would not remount the switch. Why? You'll be putting more holes in the trailer A-frame. Holes let in water (and salt if you tow in the winter). Water causes rust and when it's on the inside of the frame rails, it's hidden from view until it's too late... So, minimum number of holes is (IMO) the best way to go.

You can cut the cable and reswedge a loop on the end that connects to the truck, or if there is some type of special hook on that end, just reswedge the plastic pin end.

If you're unsure how to reswedge the cable, you can always just tie knots in the cable until it's the right length. If you do that, pull the knots tight so they won't tighten when the cable needs to be pulling the pin.

Remember, the amount of pulling force needed to pull the pin is only a few pounds There's no need to "build a bulldozer strength cable"...
 
Thank you John!
I did not think about putting more holes in the frame. Good point!
I will try and come up with a way to make the cable shorter!
Thank you again!

Don
 
I just checked my cable yesterday and it was too long. I was getting ready to shorten it and noticed there was an area that must have been dragging, found broken strands and rust. I now have a new cable. I disconnected trailer and moved the truck forward slowly to verify the brakes operate properly. Thanks for sharing.
 
I have a bumper pull and I connect the cable to the truck, not the hitch.

So, I'm curious on opinions around when longer is better? My brain goes to a situation where the trailer hops the ball and the chains go to full stretch without the brakes being engaged, what good is the system then?
Well in my thought process even if the hitch pops the ball, I sure don't want the trailer brakes in full lockup mode. Umbilical cable should be long enough to stay connected with trailer on the chains.
This would allow you to gently apply trailer brakes and make it safely to the shoulder of the road.
I can't imagine all of a sudden having the trailer brakes on full lockup traveling town the highway.
 
Well in my thought process even if the hitch pops the ball, I sure don't want the trailer brakes in full lockup mode. Umbilical cable should be long enough to stay connected with trailer on the chains.
This would allow you to gently apply trailer brakes and make it safely to the shoulder of the road.
I can't imagine all of a sudden having the trailer brakes on full lockup traveling town the highway.
I can't imagine a fifth wheel of any size "held in the truck bed by the tailgate" but if it should stay in the bed, what then??? Not having brakes set by the breakaway switch means the trailer is "freewheeling until the breakaway cable is pulled" or the umbilical cable applies brakes from the truck... In the slight chance that your tailgate might happen to be that "one in a million that does hold" and in the panic of a loose fifth wheel in the bed of your truck, you don't retain the "presence of mind to remember NOT to apply the truck brakes" you might be OK...

On the other hand, if you hear and feel your bed/tailgate/trailer make a crushing sound and react as most, your first instinct will probably be to look in the rear view mirror as you apply the truck brakes in an effort to reduce speed. Doing that may or may not send the fifth wheel crashing into the back of the truck cab... Whether it does or does not crash into the cab is not a financial consideration, you'll have already "met your deductible just with damage to the bed and tail gate" so it's strictly a "save yourself and don't worry about the truck" situation.

If you've "reasoned it out in your own mind" and are happy with your "plan", then that's about all you can do until you have the experience of a separation to "compare the choices and modify the plan if necessary"...
 
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I know this has been "beaten to death but I can't help but comment. First, I've never experienced a trailer separation at speed. I have though experienced varied "emergency situations" in my life while driving, boating, and flying. I will say that you can train for SOME emergency procedures to the point of burning the reaction into your muscle memory. Remaining calm under pressure can be a matter of training but I think it's mostly an inherent trait.

When NASA choose the original 7 astronauts they wanted college edjucated test pilots. They knew that the field consisted of mostly engineers that had proven skills in analytical thinking during high mental and physical stress. You don't take a recreational pilot out of the seat of a Cessna 152 and expect them to fly a F16 without EXTENSIVE trailing. Similarly, it's unreasonable to think think that you could take a recreational boater and plunk them down in a modern container ship and expect a safe voyage. Again this requires the "operator" to train extensively in how the systems operate, why the vehicle reacts to inputs and what to do incase of a "catastrophic event.

I know this is lengthy but bear with me. The point is that I'm not aware of ANY training or simulator available to train for this event, or for that matter even the most common of events, a tire failure. So telling someone who likely has little experience in towing that they should react in an emergency with a safety device disabled is not helping them.

It's been my experience that Murphy rarely strikes in ideal conditions. Now speaking from the position of considering myself pretty calm under fire I wouldn't want this to happen while I'm driving. Let's imagine Murphy's Law strikes, not while you're going down a straight and level divided highway on a clear summer day but rather on a two lane highway in the rain. Something triggers a sudden and radical maneuver to avoid an accident

While your in the middle of an emergency maneuver the trailer breaks loose. The truck lurches violently and your wife and passengers scream with fright. Your brain is filled with thoughts of survival and then what just happened. You've never experienced the uncontrolled violent movements, the sounds, and never thought about how to react much less trained for it. If anyone thinks they have the reflexes and muscle memory to control this situation IMO you're either overly optimistic about your response or you are a very, very rare individual. I don't think anyone can say with certainty how they would react as every event would be different.

If you possess the skill to analyze, process, and react to an event like that then good for you, but I don't think the "average" person does. Safety devices like this are implemented for a reason, they effect the the outcome in a positive way. Things like anti-lock brakes, roll over fuel shutoff, collapsible steering columns, seat belts, etc. are engineered as a response to real life studies of crash data and testing. While we may not like or agree with all of the safety devices and precautions I understand their implementation. I don't see the brake disconnect switch like cya lawyers lable and personally would never advise someone to disable it.

JMO, YMMV
 
So I was reviewing this thread. FWIW, I do not know the length of my cable are if its too long or not. I've been routing it as it was routed when the dealer first hooked it up (probably my first mistake lol) and it routes left to right and over the top of the ball through lock pin to the other side of the receiver on the truck.

Obviously, this is not the most "direct route" as it crosses over, but maybe due to the length that's been discussed here (at length lol) that is how they decided to rectify it. I am normally a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" type of guy, but.........

My question is simple however. Are all the plungers the same, roughly speaking? Could I purchase a coiled cable with a plunger attached and just replace the whole thing? Or is it better to just clip the cable that's attached and add the new cable to the existing plunger? I am a slight bit concerned that on a sharp right hand turn the coiled cable might pull out the plunger (because the pictures make then seem short as well as taught while stretched), but that's pretty much my first turn out of the storage space its in, so I should know fairly quickly.
 
So I was reviewing this thread. FWIW, I do not know the length of my cable are if its too long or not. I've been routing it as it was routed when the dealer first hooked it up (probably my first mistake lol) and it routes left to right and over the top of the ball through lock pin to the other side of the receiver on the truck.

Obviously, this is not the most "direct route" as it crosses over, but maybe due to the length that's been discussed here (at length lol) that is how they decided to rectify it. I am normally a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" type of guy, but.........

My question is simple however. Are all the plungers the same, roughly speaking? Could I purchase a coiled cable with a plunger attached and just replace the whole thing? Or is it better to just clip the cable that's attached and add the new cable to the existing plunger? I am a slight bit concerned that on a sharp right hand turn the coiled cable might pull out the plunger (because the pictures make then seem short as well as taught while stretched), but that's pretty much my first turn out of the storage space its in, so I should know fairly quickly.
I'm wondering about the coiled cable as well. Our bumper pull camper had a super long cable on it when we got it; way longer than the chains. I cut it down and added a cable clamp to it. I'm not super confident that the little cable clamp will hold, so I purchased a coiled cable to replace it with. When I received the coiled cable, it is super short coiled up. It is very stiff stretched out, which I'm afraid will pull the plunger on the breakaway switch when turning. I have yet to switch cables because of this.
 
Remember that "coiled cables" can easily be deceptive !!!!! The cable may well be "short enough not to drag the gruond" when installed. BUT, on the other hand, when (if) a trailer breakaway occurs, that cable will likely stretch "until it's straight with no coils" before it pulls the pin. So, it's possible, even likely in some situations, for the "shorter coiled cable" to actually wind up being longer than the original before it actually engages the breakaway switch... So, pull that new coiled cable out straight and compare it to your current cable. You just may find it's the same length or possibly even longer.... BTDT
 
That’s what I’m saying, with it stretched out it’s almost as long as the old cable, but it’s very stiff. I’m afraid it’s going to pull the plunger out.
 

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