brake inspection, electrical side.

Stircrazy

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2016
Posts
612
Location
Kamloops, BC
Ok, so I have a 2016 330rbk, and last year I started to suspect the brakes are not working, electrically, on the 5th.

is there an easy way to hook a meter up to the plug and test the brake circuit? I realize it would be a good/no good test, but it would let me know if I have to dig further into the wires.
 
Find the break away switch. Use a DC amp clamp on the cold side. Pull the pin and you should see about12-16 amps.

You can also hook up to the trailer, pull the pin and see if the brakes lock up.
 
Have you ever inspected/serviced the brakes, bearings, etc.? This should be done at least yearly. During those inspections issues can easily be identified and addressed before there is a failure.

If that hasn't been done, it needs to be done. Otherwise a simple test is to pull the breakaway pin and listen for a humming at the wheels. If there is no sound or vibration, then you need to dig deeper.
 
Usually if someone steps on the brake pedal in the truck you can hear the magnets buzzing in each wheel. When was the last time bearings were packed and brakes were inspected?
 
Have you ever inspected/serviced the brakes, bearings, etc.? This should be done at least yearly. During those inspections issues can easily be identified and addressed before there is a failure.

If that hasn't been done, it needs to be done. Otherwise a simple test is to pull the breakaway pin and listen for a humming at the wheels. If there is no sound or vibration, then you need to dig deeper.
yes I do the Berrings every second year and check the brakes. brakes are all in good shape. every year for bearings is sever overkill in my opinion, heck even every second year, but I do it. how often do you service your trucks bearings? what happened is two seasons ago I had a blow out and I only did one trip last year after my insurance fixed the damage, but it felt like the brakes weren't working to me, at least not properly. so before I just start going and pulling wires apart I figured I would see if there was a continuity test I could do or something to easily tell me if all the wires are hooked up and good.

I like the idea of pulling the pin and listening at each wheel. thanks
 
Find the break away switch. Use a DC amp clamp on the cold side. Pull the pin and you should see about12-16 amps.

You can also hook up to the trailer, pull the pin and see if the brakes lock up.
ya I know they are not locking up, and I am getting trailer not hooked up on my dash and that is fed off the brake circuit from what I understand which is why I am suspecting something in the wiring
 
I have not changed my original Dexter bearings and races in 12 years on my current 2014 Alpine

Video I put together that will explain how to perform a few simple resistance checks at the seven way plug of the RV along with amperage draw tests of all four magnets and individual magnets, etc

 
Thanks Chuck. I will be changing all four brakes and hubs either later today or perhaps Monday. My old trailer has the originals and I would feel better with new brakes. Have to get one of those clamp meters for checking amperage but also need some longer cotter pins and bearing grease. I have grease but it is old and want to purchase some grease with a distinct color so I can push it through the EZ Lube and out the spindle and know I am getting all the old stuff out. I had problems with my brakes last time out in that the Ford brake controller got wonky; worked/not worked and went dead. Opened up the brake controller and found a cold solder joint on on of the two solder joints that connect to the slide bar controller. Fixed that and the controller now seems to be happy again.
 
I was hit by a loose trailer tire from the opposite side Iof the interstate last year and the debris jerked on the brake wiring resulting in failure. Wires were cut where they entered the axle. Field repaired with conduit on outside of axle and all good.
 
Ok, so I have a 2016 330rbk, and last year I started to suspect the brakes are not working, electrically, on the 5th.

is there an easy way to hook a meter up to the plug and test the brake circuit? I realize it would be a good/no good test, but it would let me know if I have to dig further into the wires.
Stircrazy,
A habit I have gotten into is after I hookup, I roll and use only the trailer brakes. If I stop they are working. I also take this time to adjust the gain depending on my load.
 
That’s also good “tug test” for us with a fiver. I hitch up, put it in gear with the landing gear down and the trailer brakes applied. If the kingpin didn’t lock in the truck will move but not drop the trailer onto the bed rails.

I’ve seen firsthand a brand new GD Solitude drop onto a brand new 1ton dually at the shop because the customer didn’t check before taking off.
 
Stircrazy,
A habit I have gotten into is after I hookup, I roll and use only the trailer brakes. If I stop they are working. I also take this time to adjust the gain depending on my load.
I always do a tug test, that's why I know they are not working, just was looking for an easy way to test the trailer brakes so i know if it is the trailer side or the truck side.
 
just an update, I did the trouble shooting from the video (thanks for posting that) works great. in my case all I had to do was crawl under to see what was going on but the trouble shooting with the multimeter told me I had one magnet not working, then I did the amp draw and all the other three magnets are perfect, but the 4th is a little suspect..

can you see the issue

1000009156.jpg


I am not sure how that even happens, but I have ordered two new brake assemblys with backing plates and I am just going to change it out.

hopefully this is the cause of my "trailer disconected" in my truck
 
I would take those wires hanging from the bottom of the backing plate as a sign. That there could be an issue. :eek:
 
There are clips that hold the wires, seen them fall off or break.
ok cool, sounds like the magnet has come off also though as I can move the wires around and I hear what I assume in the magnet moving, but I won't know for sure until I take it apart. guess I might as well get new grease seals while I'm at it eh.
 

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