Black and gray tank question

walleyewizard

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RV LIFE Pro
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Posts
57
Location
North West PA
Hello everyone, We had to take our new Arcadia in for more repairs, one of which was black and gray tank liquids behind the caps when we remove them. It is enough that we need a bucket under the caps when removing them. Dealer service said this is normal has anyone else ever heard this.
 
No, not normal. A few drops yes, a small amount of dribble, yes. But not a bucket!

When dumping your tanks, give plenty of time for the flow to stop completely. Pick up a clear section of sewer hose connection so you can see what's actually coming out of the discharge outlet.
 
Thank you, I didn't think it was normal but girl at service said newer units do this because of residue left in the pipes. This is our 2nd 5th wheel and 7th camper in all and I only had this problem when valve was going bad. We have only got to use this camper twice since we bought in July 24, it's been in service more than at our house.
 
You can install a gate valve so you can hook the hose while any residue is trapped behind the valve.....
 
Hello everyone, We had to take our new Arcadia in for more repairs, one of which was black and gray tank liquids behind the caps when we remove them. It is enough that we need a bucket under the caps when removing them. Dealer service said this is normal has anyone else ever heard this.
Hi WalleyeWizard. Have same issue with new 2023 Avalanche. Surprised and angered me too. Shouldn’t need to stand back and carry extra drain bucket to catch accumulated poopsie water behind cap when open quickly and then jump back because know what is coming. Like you was also told normal. Never had problem on our previous trailer which didn’t have pull handles on a panel but a Valterra valve right at the drain location. My solution (full disclosure: saw it on YouTube video) that works like a charm was to install a Valterra T58 twist on waste pull valve ($29) that connects right to the existing drain opening with no tools or other parts needed. Now I can take off cap after travel to connect or before dumping with no problem and spillage. After I connect waste hose I pull open the valve on T58 and then pull open the RV gray and black dump valves as needed. The only negative is adding this valve extends the termination location of the dump outlet by about 4 inches. Not a problem for us since the location tucked in a bit under side of rig.
 
I had a similar problem a few years ago, we traveled to Carrabelle Fl using a lot of rural roads, when I went to connect our sewer hose a day or two later I found a pipe full of black water. I found that the black water valve had vibrated open slightly, both of our valves are angled down slightly with the tanks above the insulation board. Our handles have a hole at the center, I use a short bungee cord to keep this from happening again. I also painted the gray water valve gray so no one gets the valves confused.
 
We use a Valterra termination valve as well. After watching my brother get a brown shower one day, I thought it might be a good backup. As an added plus, with the termination valve closed, I can open both of my grey tanks to let them equalize.
 
Thank you all, I am going to add the valve to both front and rear galley tank. But one problem this leaking valve caused, that the additional valve won't cure is. Coming north in the middle of January when we stopped in WV for our finale tank dump and flush we didn't need the bucket we had frozen black tank stuff behind the cap. Thanks again
 
Install the gate valve and use a flush valve to connect your hose. You can backflush to melt ice.
 
So specific question on the valve and another generic question for the group...

1. Are these valves the type with the "bicycle brake cable" mechanism that you pull with at the water supply console....or the handle at the outlet/valve? - if so, for people that have the cable is this mechanism adjustable meaning that it could close tighter if adjusted?

2. Is this something to put on a delivery check list meaning have them put some gallons in the tanks and wait X hours to check the cap?
 
The cable length should come from the factory with enough cable to match the stroke of the blade valve. Typically valve leaks are caused by debris in the slot of the blade runs in, or a bad or obstructed seal.

When doing a PDI, I would have them connect to city water AND fill the FWtank to a 1/tank or more. You will need the water to check the function of the WH, all faucets and shower head, toilet flush valves and the FW pump. Then, after running faucets and flushing the toilet for several pins. the tanks should have enough water to test the drain valves.
 
So specific question on the valve and another generic question for the group...

1. Are these valves the type with the "bicycle brake cable" mechanism that you pull with at the water supply console....or the handle at the outlet/valve? - if so, for people that have the cable is this mechanism adjustable meaning that it could close tighter if adjusted?

2. Is this something to put on a delivery check list meaning have them put some gallons in the tanks and wait X hours to check the cap?
First I would guess they are a cable operated, second I would think its worth trying.
 
Here is an interesting video on probably what the internal problem is and how to correct it:


When I get the delivery on my "next trailer" I think it will have these types of valves and I really don't want to drive out of the lot with this problem!
 
Hello everyone, We had to take our new Arcadia in for more repairs, one of which was black and gray tank liquids behind the caps when we remove them. It is enough that we need a bucket under the caps when removing them. Dealer service said this is normal has anyone else ever heard this.
Unless debris from construction is a factor, it seems strange that you would have 2 problem valves at the same time on a new camper. Are both gray and black tanks tied together at one common 3” port? If so, how were you able to determine that both were leaking in the homogeneous mix? We’re this my issue, I’d perform an individual leak test by adding water to only one tank and putting a bucket under the discharge and see how much leaks over several hours or perhaps a day. Fully drain the first tank and repeat for the second. You seem to have been on a long trip and perhaps some fluid was retained in parts that made its way to the termination cap. Was freezing temperatures encountered on other parts of your trip that might have affected the valves? Lastly, at what time frame after purchasing did the leaks occur? Is there a “Rest of the Story” here? -Paul Harvey
 
Buy one of these and attach it to your waste outlet. That way you can attach the drain hose and then open the valve. No bucket needed.


I used black electric tape to make sure it doesn't detach when going down the road.
I put one on our rig , but didn’t think about the black tape. That’s a good idea!
 
So specific question on the valve and another generic question for the group...

1. Are these valves the type with the "bicycle brake cable" mechanism that you pull with at the water supply console....or the handle at the outlet/valve? - if so, for people that have the cable is this mechanism adjustable meaning that it could close tighter if adjusted?

2. Is this something to put on a delivery check list meaning have them put some gallons in the tanks and wait X hours to check the cap?
They must be cable style they are in the water bay, as far as checking during walk thru I don't know if it leaks fast enough.
 
Unless debris from construction is a factor, it seems strange that you would have 2 problem valves at the same time on a new camper. Are both gray and black tanks tied together at one common 3” port? If so, how were you able to determine that both were leaking in the homogeneous mix? We’re this my issue, I’d perform an individual leak test by adding water to only one tank and putting a bucket under the discharge and see how much leaks over several hours or perhaps a day. Fully drain the first tank and repeat for the second. You seem to have been on a long trip and perhaps some fluid was retained in parts that made its way to the termination cap. Was freezing temperatures encountered on other parts of your trip that might have affected the valves? Lastly, at what time frame after purchasing did the leaks occur? Is there a “Rest of the Story” here? -Paul Harvey
Black and one gray tank is tied together into one discharge. I plan on do the tests when I get my camper back. Yes there is a lot more to the story, this happened the first and only trip every time we opened the cap . My post was a question did anyone ever hear of this.
 

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