Battery monitor

[Logan X]

I’m planning on installing a battery monitor in my Hideout 24BHSWE. I recently upgraded the batteries to two 6v and I want a better way to monitor them than the three led light indicator that came with the trailer. I’m leaning towards Victron Energy for the monitor. Does anyone have any input or suggestions?

Thanks

 

[JRTJH]

There are a number of different types of voltage monitors, which kind you choose is more a personal choice than a necessity. I installed a panel similar to the one at this link. It has the volt meter, a cigarette lighter plug (not heat resistant) and a USB dual plug charger in addition to a power switch. Whichever you choose, make sure you have a way to turn it off (parasitic draw) when not in use. Even though it only uses a small amount of power, when added to all the other draws, every little bit counts.

Here's essentially what I installed, although mine is all in a row rather than stacked two on top of two.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4QWJUO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1

 

[Logan X]

There are a number of different types of voltage monitors, which kind you choose is more a personal choice than a necessity. I installed a panel similar to the one at this link. It has the volt meter, a cigarette lighter plug (not heat resistant) and a USB dual plug charger in addition to a power switch. Whichever you choose, make sure you have a way to turn it off (parasitic draw) when not in use. Even though it only uses a small amount of power, when added to all the other draws, every little bit counts.

Here's essentially what I installed, although mine is all in a row rather than stacked two on top of two.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4QWJUO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1

Thanks John, that looks like a good option. That is a good point about the parasitic draw.

 

[kampfitt]

You need to go with a monitor that uses a shunt much more accurate. The Victron uses bluetooth so you can check it from your phone or from the display. This is the one I'm looking at.https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07F3C7...olid=1UFUYAU2A97SC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[flybouy]

Logan as you can see from the 2 examples the options are varied. A little more information on what your needs are may help in narrowing the responses. Think about how much information you want and start searching with those keywords. Don't overlook marine gear. Electrical/electronic components and devices do cost more but they are built to a higher standard and often with more features.

 

[PARAPTOR]

You need to go with a monitor that uses a shunt much more accurate. The Victron uses bluetooth so you can check it from your phone or from the display. This is the one I'm looking at.https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07F3C7...olid=1UFUYAU2A97SC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

There are a number of different types of voltage monitors, which kind you choose is more a personal choice than a necessity. I installed a panel similar to the one at this link. It has the volt meter, a cigarette lighter plug (not heat resistant) and a USB dual plug charger in addition to a power switch. Whichever you choose, make sure you have a way to turn it off (parasitic draw) when not in use. Even though it only uses a small amount of power, when added to all the other draws, every little bit counts.

Here's essentially what I installed, although mine is all in a row rather than stacked two on top of two.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4QWJUO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1

Johns solution is by far the cheapest, easily installed, not flexible, and moderate accuracy. I agree with kamp the shunt solution is more accurate. The package recommended in his post is one application of the shunt method (canned application).

In a general shunt system, this shunt is wired in series with the circuit to be monitored. A monitor is wired to the shunt in various configurations to enable measurement of volts, amps, power, etc. An example would be monitoring the rig battery configuration such as terminal voltage, charging amps, discharge amps, which one can derive power, amp hours , etc.

If you want flexibility I suggest the shunt method, like any shunt application it will require a shunt, monitoring device, and remote wiring between the shunt location (what you are monitoring) and your monitoring device such as a simple voltmeter, multi function device, etc.

I purchased a general shunt and meter around $20 and wired it up. Currently shunt is in series with the rig battery configuration and currently monitors battery voltage and the current in and out, meter has the capability to display power which I do not pay attention to.

 

[JRTJH]

Having maintained some of the most sophisticated electronics systems in the world (aircraft and missile guidance systems), I'm not sure that installing a system with accuracy to the 0.001 volt level is realistic for monitoring a 12 volt dual battery system in a Hideout travel trailer.

Sure you can "do it" but is it necessary? is it better? is it cheaper? will it give the average camper a better insight to your battery condition?

Every battery chart I've seen (for general consumer use) illustrates voltage/charge condition to the 0.1 level. So, who really cares where the "other two digits" are?

To me, if installing a voltage monitor system (not a "electronics gee whiz panel" so the neighbors are impressed) in an entry level, wood frame travel trailer, then I wouldn't spend a lot of money on features that will likely NEVER be used. And if someone is asking the question, I'd suppose their electronics expertise is not at the "master installer level", so the KISS protocol is likely to be important.

As an example, would you put Pirelli Stelvio Corsa tires ($600 each) on a Yugo or Chevy Metro? Sure, you can get tires sized to fit the wheel, but will you be able to use any of the enhanced performance built into the tires? For those two cars, a set of Goodyear or Dunlop "cheapies" will do just as well. Now if you had a Ferrari 250 GTO, I'd say the enhanced features would be beneficial, but probably only if you lived in Germany where the speed limits don't apply to many roads. In the USA, with a maximum of 55MPH on most roads and 80 as the highest "typical limit" even on that kind of car, the tires wouldn't be justified.....

JMHO, but when we complain about having to use 3 gallons of antifreeze instead of being able to winterize with only 2 gallons, if that $2.97 is important, then installing a "gee whiz panel" in a Hideout ???

Now, if the objective is to install a panel to impress the neighbors or to give the trailer "ambience" with multicolor, flashing lights and multiple switches to change the flashing pattern and watch the voltage drop when the inverter kicks in to run the toaster (for the maximum 2 minutes until the batteries die).... Then there are some very impressive "master control panels" available.... But, for monitoring a battery in a travel trailer when dry camping ??????

OK off my soap box......

 

[Ken / Claudia]

I went to amazon and paid about 6 bucks for a led readout that plugs into the 12v socket. Better than the lights on the panel.

 

[66joej]

I went to amazon and paid about 6 bucks for a led readout that plugs into the 12v socket. Better than the lights on the panel.

Sounds like the quick and easy way to go. Probably as accurate as needed.

 

[Logan X]

Thanks for all of the input. I guess my main objective with this post was to hear what other people were doing and to get some ideas.

John brings up some very good points about a wazoo battery monitor being overkill for my purpose. I hadn’t even considered a simple voltage monitor connected to the DC power would essentially give me the charge level of the batteries, which at this point is all I need. This seems almost elegant in its simplicity and high level of functionality.

I have toyed with the idea of adding more batteries and solar panels. There are so many more factors that go into that type of set up, the weight of the batteries, space, charge controller, etc. I’m not sure it would be worth the money and effort for the type of camping we do.

I think I will install the voltage monitor as John suggested and take some time to evaluate if my current battery set up is meeting my needs. If I decide to upgrade in the future, I won’t feel like I have wasted any money or effort installing a basic voltage monitor. Actually, I think after some time using the new batteries with a voltage monitor, I will be able to make a much more informed decision.

Thanks for all of the insights!

 

[PARAPTOR]

Okay, these posts seem to be once again centered on energy management. although the more recent posts were related to the 110 AC portion of the RV power system, surge protection, EMS remote monitoring, these posts relate to the 12 VDC portion. Just as on the AC side just knowing the voltage level, although important does not provide enough information for overall analysis and planning. Knowing the voltage, as well as, the current (power) on the AC side enable one to determine for example what current is drawn from each device. One can then determine/plan what can be turned on and stay within the rating of your rig (basically 30 or 50 amp).

Same applies for the 12V DC side, just knowing the voltage does not provide enough information. Just like on the AC side nice to know what current is drawn from each 12V DC device. For example determining what type/size batteries do I need to install, capacity (Amp Hour). Nice to know where you are now before you plan what/where you want to do/go. Also for troubleshooting what is the current output of your converter at the various stages, etc

Knowing more than just voltage levels on either the 110V AC or 12V DC side is equally important for troubleshooting and planning involving these two RV power sources.

Yes there is a point where it is overkill (flashing lights , etc) on any thing, I think if you want to monitor power you need to know more than than voltage level. Okay stepping Down :hide:

 

[flybouy]

I bought one of these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FH9NJ7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and installed it into the battery lid along with a disconnect switch. That way when I turn the battery on I know what the voltage is and whether or not I need to plug in to the truck to raise the jack. This works for me as we don't dry camp.

 

[JRTJH]

To monitor power consumption, to manage electrical use, to "delve" into battery management, then power consumption is required.

HOWEVER, to simply know the charge status of a battery or a battery bank, all that's needed is a voltmeter. Here's all that's required to know when to plug in a charger or whether you are "good to go" until later:

12.6 100% charged
12.5 90% charged'
12.4 80% charged
12.3 70% charged and where the battery "ought to be recharged".
12.2 60% charged and where you really need to stop using power and recharge.
12.0 50% charged and at this point (on a voltage monitor) it's time to pull out the generator and start recharging the battery "fer sure"....

Most of us are "saavy enough to know" that if the battery is at 70% and we didn't make it through the night last night, we won't make it tonight either. And they know that "if the battery voltage is as 12.2, it's not going to be a "warm, well lit night".... That relationship of voltage to battery charge state is all that nearly every one of us needs relate to.

There's no "need" to have an ammeter, a shunt, a series of lights and switches, or anything but a simple "plug it in the cigarette lighter socket voltmeter" or a similar device... All the rest, for the LAYMAN who doesn't comprehend the inter-relationship of amps/volts/relationship of shunts to needle deflection/Ohms law, is more complex than they need to enjoy a dry camping trip and all they need to remember or they can post a small chart) with the above five voltage/charge state numbers and that's all that's necessary.

When you go to the "auto-level control panel", push the button and get an ERROR light or an ERROR lockout, walk inside, look at the voltmeter. If it's less than about 12.1 VDC, it doesn't much matter how many "amp-hours are remaining" or the "power consumption in amps" or the "voltage drop when the inverter comes on".... What matters, to the layman is voltage "right now" as it relates to "battery charge status "right now". all the rest is just "fluff" to the average camper owner whose understanding of electricity is "check the plug if it won't turn on" and after that, call a repairman or get on the forum and ask for help..... Those members don't need the fluff.....

For (my guess) 95% of campers, anything more than a simple digital voltmeter is "overkill"..... YMMV

 

[weaselguys]

LoganX I highly recommend the Trimetric 2030RV it works great monitoring the 4 6v batteries in mine. And now that you have upgraded to real batteries you need to start thinking of battery use in amps and % of battery left not volts the Trimetric tells you that and a lot more including currant amp draw and daily amp draw. You should also move to a dedicated charger intended for the 6v batteries not a automotive type or the built in charger. Also stay at or above 80% battery capacity as much as possible to prolong battery life. I have 464 amps of battery power and I can go 3 days and nights and stay at the 80% mark it then takes 3-5 hrs to recharge.

 

[PARAPTOR]

Just happen to find a picture of my simple home made Power panel for RV power Management (110V AC and 12V DC). Hopefully picture will transfer OKAY. As should be, we have differing opinions as to what and how we do things which I think is the strength of this forum.

I guess I continue to view the DC portion of the RV power system like that on the 110V AC portion. I guess If I had a choice I prefer having more data than less. I understand others may not share my opinion and may consider some solutions as "DATA OVERFLOW". Like anything else they is a cost associated with complexity. As shown in these posts alone complexity and cost vary as well as data available to the user.

My guess is the simple plug in or wire in volt meter is probably $10-15 and extremely easy to install. Other canned applications will be much more than that and require a stunt to be wired in. Weaselguys has supplied a good picture of the shunt wiring. My investment less shunt wiring time and wire to the Power Center was around $20. We all have our way to float our boat

 

[Logan X]

LoganX I highly recommend the Trimetric 2030RV it works great monitoring the 4 6v batteries in mine. And now that you have upgraded to real batteries you need to start thinking of battery use in amps and % of battery left not volts the Trimetric tells you that and a lot more including currant amp draw and daily amp draw. You should also move to a dedicated charger intended for the 6v batteries not a automotive type or the built in charger. Also stay at or above 80% battery capacity as much as possible to prolong battery life. I have 464 amps of battery power and I can go 3 days and nights and stay at the 80% mark it then takes 3-5 hrs to recharge.

Thanks for the info and the pictures. It’s very helpful.

 

[Viper02]

I just use my multi meter to check DC volts at the batteries and usually do this while outside enjoying my first cup of java and fresh morning air... I’ll check again in the evening to see state of batteries.. fire up the Honda’s to charge as needed... this is of course when boon docking

When at full hook up site who cares.

 

[Ddubya]

Here is a monitor that looks interesting. There are a couple of others on eBay as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Mo...h=item285864380d:g:drIAAOSwqVdaqdrE:rk:3:pf:0

 

[WJQ]

John, I assumed that you checked the voltage monitor panel against a reasonable quality voltmeter. Is it within at least 0.05 volts? If so, I agree good enough and very cost-effective. I just looked up a table that showed each 0.1 volt was about 10% of the charge.

 

[Bill & Jeri RV Travels]

X2 or is it X3 on the Trimetric TM2030 monitor. That’s what I installed to monitor my 6v batteries when i upped my solar to 400 watts. It does a fantastic job of showing amp flow in and out of the batteries, battery voltage and a whole lot more. After things are set up and working properly I mostly just set it to read % of charge ( or SOC = State Of Charge).