Battery hook up

[9baller]

Hi, I have a 2004 Outback.
There is a small black box on the front of the camper where the black positive cable is.
Does the black cable and the positive from the battery attach to this little black box? The box is broken, what is this box?

 

[JRTJH]

Are you describing the emergency breakaway cable box ??? Or ??? This is one where a photo would be worth a thousand words....

 

[9baller]

I’ll take a picture tomorrow, thank you

 

[9baller]

Here is the little black box I was referring to. It looks like the black wires should bolt to this? The plastic housing is broken, is this just a terminal for the connection or does it do more? I’m thinking it does more.

 

[JRTJH]

That "little black box" is a 12VDC circuit breaker. There should be 2 or 3 located around that area, so look for the rest. They may be on the other side of that bulkhead or maybe even further away, like in the front passthrough or tucked away in the belly of the trailer... All the RV manufacturers "hide them in different locations"... Yours is "shot" and need replacement. First remove the canister and you'll likely find the amperage rating engraved, stamped or printed on the bottom of the container. The rating is located there as an attempt to preserve the markings from being scratched or washed away... Also, when you get the new one, you'll notice there are different color terminals. One is the load and one is the input. Compare what you currently have to make sure you install it properly...

You can buy a replacement breaker at almost any auto parts store, at every RV parts store and on Amazon. Just make sure you get the correct amperage so you don't end up with too frequent power interruptions and/or a circuit breaker that's rated more than the wires can handle, creating a fire hazard....

 

[9baller]

Thank you, that’s great help.
I just bought this camper and have never had one before so I’ve got a lot to learn. Like I didn’t know the DC was wired black and white like a house. I’d like to get a copy of the owners manual from somewhere.

 

[Roger66]

Make sure to disconnect shore and battery power before working on it.

 

[JRTJH]

I've never seen a 2004 Keystone Owner's Manual. I have most of the years from 2005 through current. ALL of the Keystone Owner's Manuals are "generic" meaning they are a single booklet, intended for every brand and every model manufactured by Keystone during that year... So, a lot of things are included in the manual that do not apply to all trailers and some things "specific to a particular model" are omitted as "not important enough to devote the space"....

I've attached the 2006 Outback brochure. That's the oldest brochure I have for the Outback. I have the 2005 Owner's Manual, but the file is too large to attach to a post. If you want, I can email it to you, but please do not post your email to this public thread. I have access to your email, and will confirm it is correct with a private message if you want the Owner's Manual.

 

[9baller]

Thank you for the pdf file, all that was in it was a hand full of pics of them and a few specs.
I’ll have to YouTube some things

 

[9baller]

Safe to assume the copper bolt is the hot one?

 

[chuckster57]

There should be markings on circuit breaker. Should say BAT and AUX. Bat is the “live” side.

 

[JRTJH]

There are as many china manufacturers of 12VDC circuit breakers as there are "hairs on my head", so it's difficult to assure that all of them follow the same standards for metal composition in terminal bolts... So, it's anybody's best guess if the copper terminal will ALWAYS be the battery connection.... All it takes is china to decide to send some devices intended for North Korea to the US and we may well end up with a shipment that doesn't comply with the current expected color code. All of them that I'm aware of are marked "BATT" and "LOAD" or similar. Usually, but not necessarily always, the BATT is the copper color connection. Here's one from Amazon that shows the marking on the black phenolic cap

 

[9baller]

There should be markings on circuit breaker. Should say BAT and AUX. Bat is the “live” side.

Ok, that all worked

 

[9baller]

I’m missing this water tank cover. What’s the proper name and who sells them?

 

[locomech]

I’m missing this water tank cover. What’s the proper name and who sells them?

The name of the cover would be something like "gravity flow water filler cap". You can find them at Walmart, Camping World, or order one from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/ARYEIELLSOW-222PW-Fresh-Replacement-Gravity/dp/B0DJ586SVX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

 

[JRTJH]

From the looks of the rest of the water station, I wouldn't waste my money on buying a $9 cap, knowing the UV damage to the rest of the plastic. All it will take is a slight wiggle of the city water hose and you risk the entire city water connection falling out in your hand. Plus, there's a "one way valve" in the city water hose connection. Seeing the age deterioration of the plastic plate, I'd suspect the city water valve is also risking the same condition.

So, instead of buying a replacement cap, I'd buy the entire assembly. Cost of the entire panel is $20 with a plastic inlet valve body https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-Whi...407839&sprefix=rv+city+water+,aps,187&sr=8-30 or $35 with a brass valve body Amazon.com

You may even find the entire assembly cheaper on EBay or at a trailer supply website...

But, I wouldn't spend the money on a cap after seeing the condition of the entire component.

 

[chuckster57]

I agree with John.

 

[9baller]

From the looks of the rest of the water station, I wouldn't waste my money on buying a $9 cap, knowing the UV damage to the rest of the plastic. All it will take is a slight wiggle of the city water hose and you risk the entire city water connection falling out in your hand. Plus, there's a "one way valve" in the city water hose connection. Seeing the age deterioration of the plastic plate, I'd suspect the city water valve is also risking the same condition.

So, instead of buying a replacement cap, I'd buy the entire assembly. Cost of the entire panel is $20 with a plastic inlet valve body https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-White-Gravity-Trailer-Marine/dp/B0735QD3Y5/ref=sr_1_30?crid=26IAZKTEML5RI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.z4j6k0SvFB8ZKkqFidA1IKNcB1WJ3llaUgR28riYWjaPRow-qaYdU4SP7b7Zl1UdI-SbN6wZyqZwf17_BF4HvCy3glZ_n8_WHMtdlm2dbK1wcQeSDolUtqPv76trPBWlZEGR460ufb9UP7LR2xwg7nHcXqfZpYVDGJDibmA8tw5HwEMyT0bOeAIxXy8OJunogahp_7aUQQ9-BB-H6vEUq6IOUhvmlNa_GquAVE6HaXQ2gqVjBGcDkZqtGA9TJ66aoHnmdw7OpKfEuuLQy9Lc1E4hmiKyVFGXBSxsCk0SEhU84-i4DQ5EMIZhE8cC9voDc9ibEckmCOxZ0OvCnC8kmZ2dfNXcEK-x0WG8y3-x1XKDtfO_ZmdD8mKlr4SsLzDzkjpIQ0A1d8MEOz4NZ2ETCQv1yasIozeZgox6Hne8LV_3_zY0pzI6sphbRc4U4ES3.4ldXTgwNjWfSsKJueHnxPmay10-O3S6pLwLrnfyYT_A&dib_tag=se&keywords=rv+city+water+connection+replacement&qid=1742407839&sprefix=rv+city+water+,aps,187&sr=8-30 or $35 with a brass valve body Amazon.com

You may even find the entire assembly cheaper on EBay or at a trailer supply website...

But, I wouldn't spend the money on a cap after seeing the condition of the entire component.

Yes, I’ve been replacing everything on the roof for the same reason, badly dry rotted.
Thank you, I’ll check that link