Axle Swap - For those that have done it, how difficult?

If you have 15" wheels, then 12" brakes/hubs will fit inside the wheel back. All that's left is to get the correct lug pattern. That's pretty much standardized on 15" 6 lug wheels, so you are good to go there.

I much prefer brake wiring inside the axle beam, but either routing is equally functional. One way to "gain that protection without wiring inside the beam is to weld a steel tube to the outside of the axle beam. I've got a utility trailer with that feature. It's a simple matter to pull any size wire you want through that tube.

Either wire routing is "functionally adequate" so it boils down more to preference than to "which is best"...
 
Hi. Just last year I replaced the OEM AL-KO axles on my 2013 Cougar for the exact same reason as you. No parts availability.

I replaced the OEM 4400lb axles with 4400lb units from Lippert. I choose Lippert and 4400lb axles due to the fact they have a direct replacement (measurement wise) axle that comes with the spring perches already mounted in the correct location. No need to $hire$ a welder to weld them which I would have had to do if upgrading to 5200lp units.

I did not replace the springs. I un-bolted the OEM axles at the U-bolt shackles. I already had the CRE3000 and wet blot kit installed years ago.

I also opted to NOT use the supplied in axle brake wiring as the gauge was tiny. I used duplex 10ga wire zip tided to the rear of each axle.

Trailer was supported on jack stands on the frame rails.

I performed all of this work solo with common hand tools. A transmission jack made the job much easier as I could use it to lower the OEM unit and raise the replacement axles with ease. I did use my pneumatic ratchet though ;-)


Lee, I would think the jack stand would be placed where the top perch sits across the frame rail as opposed to parallel as in your pic for the most stability and safety. In other words, turned 90 degrees from what's in pic. It would crush the colorplast, but I believe it would be safer.
 
Update:

Ordered 2 axles on 1-29-25.
Picked up the new axles today, 1-31-25.

Axle configuration:

6000#
12x2 brakes
EZ Lube #42 spindles
Wiring inside
3000# leaf springs
Double Lipped Grease Seals (#22333T:cool:

Axles were custom built by Friedl axles in SoCal. When I picked up axles today, I met my axle builder. He gave me a tour of his shop. He is a custom trailer builder and fabricator and does high quality work! Great to know that they were built by a local USA workman...even though materials (steel tubes, brakes, spindles, etc.) are China made.


Now my install options are:

1. Self install
2. Mobile RV tech would come to my home and install...$400
3. Local RV repair shop (taking it in)....$350

The axles are heavy....I would estimate 150# each
The manufacturer lifted with forklift and then he and I loaded in the back of my truck.

I'm leaning towards having tech come to my home. I can watch the work being performed and can assist as needed. I can "verify" work.

I am critical on mechanical work and like it done correctly the first time. Especially details....ex. removing and install wet bolts with knurled bolts shafts and aligning grease ports correctly when installing new ones. I've seen some vids of guys just using impact to remove shackle bolts and allowing knurled portion of bolts to spin inside hangers....thus making new bolts less likely to press fit in correctly.

Many times, I learn more about how NOT to do a job when watching some of these how to vids!!
 

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