AC/DC Slide Out Question

Folks have responded with various suggestions, I always like to start simple and at the beginning ..... is your battery disconnect switch in the disconnect position?

If the battery disconnect switch (sometimes a big red key located in your convenience center or maybe near the battery depending on your model) can be removed, the battery is disconnected. If the key cannot be removed, the battery is connected.

It's kind of backwards, but it's a disconnect.... when when "disconnect" switch is "on" the battery is disconnected from the rest of the camper. When it's "off" the battery is connected.

When the battery is disconnected, the converter (run by AC electricity) will not charge the battery. Nor will any "power" from the battery provide any power to the camper either. It's cut off.

The reason you still have DC electricity when the battery is dead or disconnected is because the converter is also putting out DC electricity and AC electricity. But as stated above, some items (like jacks and slides) put a strong stress on the converter when it functions without the battery.

Now, why did the battery go dead if the cut off switch is in the disconnect position? That's because your battery is really not 100% disconnected from everything. Yes, it is disconnected from charging and running the normal electronics, but there is at least one item that is always running off the battery only and does not use your converter, and that is your CO detector that has it's own in-line fuse directly to the battery. This is a constant drain on the battery. So if the converter is not charging because you are in disconnect, the battery will not charge, but will continue to drain dead.

Before doing anything, make sure your battery disconnect is NOT in the disconnect position. That is where you should start. Please don't tear anything apart in your camper until you know for sure you are not in disconnect and/or your battery truly is bad.
 
Wow I just finished looking up the same specs and was about to post it. You beat me to it. Anyway I have to admit I was wrong in my assumption.
When I did my work for the solar and took the charger out of the circuit I assumed it was just like the chargers in my garage I use on my vehicles and mower batteries which all output at 10 amps.
So this charger outputs more like the alternater on a vehicle. It’s more than I thought about it.
Anyway I’m not using mine and the op still needs to start by verifying whether he is getting charging voltage and go from there.
It’s very rare but I do at times get things wrong ��
 
The reason you still have DC electricity when the battery is dead or disconnected is because the converter is also putting out DC electricity and AC electricity. But as stated above, some items (like jacks and slides) put a strong stress on the converter when it functions without the battery.

The converter CONSUMES AC voltage it doesn’t produce it.
 
Just a quick note.
Thank you all for the many posts. I see I have some catching up to do.
I have not been getting notified when people respond. Where is the check box for that?
Now that I am back to reality I am working 9 hour days again and dealing with the usual day-to-day stuff.
Hope to dig into the RV this weekend to find the converter and figure out what I need to buy.
Thanks again.
TTYL.
 
If anyone is still watching this thread, can you recommend a good brand converter for me to purchase as a replacement?
 
If anyone is still watching this thread, can you recommend a good brand converter for me to purchase as a replacement?

What power distribution center do you have? The brand/model should be on the inside cover.
 
I have never had an issue with WFCO converters, but some prefer Progressive. Either way, might as well get an auto-detect version while you are at it. My converter is a WF-9855-AD.

Make sure you only buy from a reputable source. There have been people on here that found a “great” price on Amazon only to find out it was a counterfeit/knock-off.
 
I had a converter that never worked. Took a year to realize it because I had 200watts solar. Anyway, it happens and replaced and worked great. In all my testing post replacement I actually turned the converter circuit breaker off to see how the battery performed. Ran the LiFiPo4 battery to 0 and everything shut down. Whole trailer went dark even though I was connected to 50 amp power. Turned breaker back on and everything worked again. Just my experiences.
 
I have never had an issue with WFCO converters, but some prefer Progressive. Either way, might as well get an auto-detect version while you are at it. My converter is a WF-9855-AD.

Make sure you only buy from a reputable source. There have been people on here that found a “great” price on Amazon only to find out it was a counterfeit/knock-off.

That's what I was thinking NHBD. I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B48C7RRF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

It's a WFCO Arterra WF-9855-AD-CB Converter/Charger Deckmount 55Amp DC Output (15Amp AC Power Cord), Gray
 
Thats a nice converter, as long as the seller is reputable I wouldn't hesitate.
 
Pretty much everything except the AC, microwave and depending on your model TV run on 12 volt DC. This allows you to dry camp without a electrical connection. If the batteries went dead while connected to AC power I would check the breaker to the converter. If the breaker has been turned off or tripped the batteries will not charge. If the breaker is on and you do not see 12-13.5 volts output I would think the converter is not working. If you end up replacing the converter look at what you plan to do in the future. If you are looking at lithium batteries not all converters will charge lithium batteries.
 
I don't know why, but our 2021 3650RL has a label that says "DO NOT OPERATE SLIDES WITHOUT BATTERY CONNECTED"
 
I don't know why, but our 2021 3650RL has a label that says "DO NOT OPERATE SLIDES WITHOUT BATTERY CONNECTED"

Because the initial amperage to start the motor turning is greater than what the converter can supply. The rusult will be that the initial voltage will drop and can can/will cause damage to the motor and or the converter. The battery can deliver a very high amperage to operate the slides while maintaining the voltage. The function of the converter is to recharge the battery.
 
Okay. The mystery deepens.
I bought myself a decent power tester and tested my current converter.
I get a 13.78 DC output reading from the converter. Yet, it doesn't charge my battery. It didn't charge my old battery and it doesn't charge my brand new battery.

Both fuses on the converter are good - as would be expected if it is outputting 13.78 volts DC,
The fuse for the converter inside the power center is good.
I don't see a breaker for the power converter. But none of them are tripped.

OH! I just thought of something as I typed this: I just tested the converter plugged into an outside source.
Perhaps the outlet the converter is using inside the RV is not working.
That was dumb.
I will have to go out and check all the other fuses and check for power to the AC outlet the converter uses.

Anybody have any other thoughts on this?
 
Okay.
The outlet being used by the converter IS indeed working. I plugged the converter into it and it still puts out 13.78 volts DC.

Next I went to the cables that connect to the battery and I am getting zero voltage at the connection points.
So, the problem is in between the convert and the battery.
I will next check for loose wires.

Any other thoughts on this issue?
 

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