50AMP plug

bludawg

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Joined
May 22, 2024
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4
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blue springs
I recently bought an Anker 9000W Solar Generator to use at home with 400W panels. Since it has a 50amp plug I can use it on our camper. My question it has anyone added a 50amp plug inside by tapping into the shoreline plug. I really do not want to leave the generator outside when camping since it can be left inside for use. The plug comes in under the bathroom sink so I can get to it.
 
So you want to be able to plug your RV into the solar generator while inside the unit?

If you simply splice into the existing circuit your plug will be LIVE when plugged into shore power and could pose a health/safety risk. I would add a transfer switch and that way your not in danger of being fried by accident.
 
Or install a new cable that enters under the cabinet and runs to the back where your current 50 amp plug is with a 50 amp receptacle that you can just plug up when you want to use the battery bank.
 
I recently bought an Anker 9000W Solar Generator to use at home with 400W panels. Since it has a 50amp plug I can use it on our camper. My question it has anyone added a 50amp plug inside by tapping into the shoreline plug. I really do not want to leave the generator outside when camping since it can be left inside for use. The plug comes in under the bathroom sink so I can get to it.

You would really need a transfer switch to select between shore power and your “generator” (sorry, I have a difficult time calling a battery/inverter combo a generator). The issue is that if you simply tap into the incoming shore power cord, you make that a live circuit.
 
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How big is that battery? I wouldn't want that thing in the middle of my living room. But that's just me. Any battery bank like that should be rated for external use. You could always get a custom cover for it like I bought for my REAL generator that sits on my rear bumper. A battery bank could be kept covered all the time.
 
As mentioned above in a few posts, if you just "connect a second plug" to the back of your existing shore power plug when you plug into it, you will make the pin in the exterior plug "live and shockingly dangerous"... Any curious child (or even adult who wonders how your A/C is running and you're not hooked up to shore power) that might happen to walk behind your trailer could get shocked if they open that door to see what it is. Then, if the door might be damaged and fall off or get knocked off, you've got exposed live connector pins unguarded "right there in the open"...

As suggested, if you're intent on adding a second plug, use a transfer switch so the exterior connector isn't "live when on the battery pack"....
 
Surely no one would install a male plug that is hot when in use. A transfer switch works but a simpler and cheaper way is to just install a pigtail plug that can be connected if you are using the battery bank and not shore power. It could be tucked under a cabinet or some other place when not being used and wouldn't be hot if not being used.
 
Surely no one would install a male plug that is hot when in use. A transfer switch works but a simpler and cheaper way is to just install a pigtail plug that can be connected if you are using the battery bank and not shore power. It could be tucked under a cabinet or some other place when not being used and wouldn't be hot if not being used.

It's possible to power the RV by wiring a plug (pigtail or not) to the back of the shore power inlet plug/wiring. The issue is that if he does that, when the electriity flows through his plug/pigtail plug, it goes both ways at the splice. It flows into the trailer, but unfortunately, it also flows to the male pins in the OEM shore power plug.

Without either a manual "toggle switch" or a transfer switch, he can't choose which way the battery/generator power is going to flow. It will flow both into the trailer and out of the trailer from his "behind the shore power splice.

I think you're talking about adding a complete plug to the input wiring behind the shore power plug on the trailer skin??? That way, he can "unplug the newly installed plug making the outside shore power outlet "dead" and then plug the other end of his newly installed plug into the generator/battery bank.
 
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I guess a better description is a battery power station instead of a generator. The Anker SOLIX F3800 is designed for indoor use. It is a little bit bigger than a 2 drawer filing cabinet. The idea of using a transfer switch for the plugs would be a good idea. I do have a gas generator but some places do not allow using them when boondocking. Thanks for the input.
 
Why not just plug the battery bank into the shore power cable????
That would cure all problems!!
50 amp trailer, 50 amp battery bank, whats the problem!!

Don
 
Why not just plug the battery bank into the shore power cable????
That would cure all problems!!
50 amp trailer, 50 amp battery bank, whats the problem!!

Don

OP wants to keep the battery bank inside the trailer. Routing the heavy cord and making an access point may be an issue.
 
Apparently I may not be a good sleuth, but not having a clue what camper you have from my quick search, I am going to make a big assumption. If you have a fifth wheel, just put the battery pack in the basement and route the 50amp camper cord into the basement through one of the plumbing holes (if the cord end will fit), or through a basement door (don’t latch it obviously), or possibly in the front area where there may be a spot for a generator with a ready made hole in the floor. Or, make your own entry hole for the 50 amp cord in the floor of the basement. Then, battery pack is out of the weather and no fancy wiring needed to hook up to it.
 
A tangential question....these are EXPENSIVE.

LINK

What is the advantage of this vs wiring a larger battery bank and inverter?
 
A tangential question....these are EXPENSIVE.

LINK

What is the advantage of this vs wiring a larger battery bank and inverter?

Likely "I already have" or "I need to use it at home and in the RV".... Or maybe convenience ??? Sort of like carrying 12 quarts of motor oil to the register vs carrying 3 one gallon jugs to the register ?????

At any rate, based on the price, it's pretty easy to understand why the OP doesn't want to put it out in the open, chained to the trailer or not.... I'd want to keep it inside too. Just not sure where an "out of the way place" would be the way we use our trailer.
 
It's possible to power the RV by wiring a plug (pigtail or not) to the back of the shore power inlet plug/wiring. The issue is that if he does that, when the electriity flows through his plug/pigtail plug, it goes both ways at the splice. It flows into the trailer, but unfortunately, it also flows to the male pins in the OEM shore power plug.

Without either a manual "toggle switch" or a transfer switch, he can't choose which way the battery/generator power is going to flow. It will flow both into the trailer and out of the trailer from his "behind the shore power splice.

I think you're talking about adding a complete plug to the input wiring behind the shore power plug on the trailer skin??? That way, he can "unplug the newly installed plug making the outside shore power outlet "dead" and then plug the other end of his newly installed plug into the generator/battery bank.

Completely missing my point. I'm not suggesting splicing anything. I'm suggesting making an extension cable that runs to the battery bank on one end and close to the shore plug on the other so when he wants to run on the battery bank he simply plugs it in on both ends.
 
Understanding what your trying to do...and depending on the trailer I would do what is suggested above. Use it just like any generator by plugging into shore power and using the breakers to regulate what is energized.


In my trailer I would probably install a waterproof power access panel in the outer wall behind one of the lower cabinets. The cabinet is probably 4-5 ft from the shore power outlet and would house the coiled the extension power cord when not being used.
 
Okay. I use this Solar generator at home when the power goes out and it sits inside the house with only the cable for the solar panels going outside. If you've seen one of these Anker SOLIX F3800 it's not that big. My setup is 9000W with 400W panels. The intent was to also use it when we go camping off the grid. Some places do not allow the use of a gas generator which I have two of them. Our shore power plug is located exactly where our bathroom sink cabinet is at. Sure, I could plug the power cord to shore power plug on the outside at run it through the slide somewhere but I didn't want to do that. Basically I would be installing a 4 prong dryer plug inside. Since the camper already has 400W solar power with an inverter it does run the AC or microwave. I could have installed more panels and another inverter since it is has that option but I already had the Anker. That's the plan/idea. I have a Cougar 26RBS.
 
Since the camper already has 400W solar power with an inverter it does run the AC or microwave.

Are you sure about that? Unless you installed the solar setup on your camper, it does not power the microwave unless you rewired the circuit to the microwave and it doesn't power the rooftop AC unless you added a second inverter that is dedicated to the AC unit.

However, by plugging in your Anker battery box to your shore power cable, you could power those items. Don't forget to turn off your converter if you do this, otherwise you are using battery power to charge your camper batteries, which is grossly inefficient.
 
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OOPS. I missed saying it does NOT run.. If the camper would have had the 600W setup instead of the 400W it all would be a moot point.
 
Okay. I use this Solar generator at home when the power goes out and it sits inside the house with only the cable for the solar panels going outside. If you've seen one of these Anker SOLIX F3800 it's not that big. My setup is 9000W with 400W panels. The intent was to also use it when we go camping off the grid. Some places do not allow the use of a gas generator which I have two of them. Our shore power plug is located exactly where our bathroom sink cabinet is at. Sure, I could plug the power cord to shore power plug on the outside at run it through the slide somewhere but I didn't want to do that. Basically I would be installing a 4 prong dryer plug inside. Since the camper already has 400W solar power with an inverter it does run the AC or microwave. I could have installed more panels and another inverter since it is has that option but I already had the Anker. That's the plan/idea. I have a Cougar 26RBS.

If that is the case, I would look at 50A+ transfer switches (personally I would go with something manual), wire a generator inlet box, shore line "in" and the breaker box to it.

Where is the "electrical center"? Looking at the trailer you could wire this box under the sink as the shore line power somehow runs from that wall to the breaker box, but could be rerouted to under the sink.

Then I would "notch the cabinets in such a way that the cord could be run with the cabinet door closed an plug into the "inverter backup". Id put it in that dead space that usually exists next to the toilet if possble.

The cord is stored under the sink and plugged into the "inverter backup" and the generator inlet outlet when used.

As Rob said you need the panel hook up and that stuff could probably be wired in the same location from the outside to under the cabinet...plug and play to the unit.
 

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