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Old 10-19-2021, 01:36 PM   #1
Bullet Bum
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bypassing leaking water heater

I have a cracked water heater tank and live in my travel trailer. I only see 1 bypass valve. I drained the tank and disconnected the bottom inlet tube to tank. I'm still getting water coming through my water heater. What am I missing? I have a Atwood GC6AA-10E.
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Old 10-19-2021, 03:23 PM   #2
flybouy
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The single valve bypass blocks the cold water from entering the water heater and diverts it to the hot water line. The hot water pipe exits the tank and a one way check valve shouls prevent the water from entering what is an outlet. That check valve can stick from debris like mineral deposits holding it open.
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Old 10-19-2021, 04:42 PM   #3
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Like Marshall posted, the bottom water heater port is the cold water inlet. The bypass valve/winterization valve diverts water from that inlet to the "up pipe" which connects with the hot water line "at or near the water heater outlet" which is the top port on the water heater tank.

There is a "one way valve" mounted in the top port. Its purpose is to prevent water from flowing back "into the water heater"...

I'd suspect that the one way valve in your water heater outlet port is corroded and stuck open. It is allowing the "bypassed water" to flow into the top port through that stuck open valve....

In normal operation, you probably wouldn't notice any problem since the lower bypass valve effectively closes off the "up pipe" so hot water only flows into the trailer plumbing. But, when in bypass, that up pipe delivers cold water to the one way valve and with it stuck open and no pressure to prevent the tank from filling, water flows both through the bypass system and also into the "stuck open one way valve"...

It's the brass "gadget" mounted in the top water heater tank fitting.
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:47 PM   #4
Bullet Bum
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Thanks guys. I appreciate the advice. I don't seem to have the gadget valve on the top part of my water tank. It seems that I need termination caps for the 2 hoses to fully bypass and have fresh cold-only water; I think. I live in a isolated area and am relying on a very unreliable mobile RV repair company.
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Old 10-23-2021, 01:11 PM   #5
sourdough
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Attached is a link to a pic of the check valve. It's on the top in line with the red pex. It allows water out but not in. Sounds like it has failed.

You said you don't think it's there; what exactly is screwed into that hole? The check valve doesn't cost much. If you are trying to use your water without the water heater since it is cracked just cap that top line going into the water heater. I did see where that model water heater is discontinued so good luck in finding a replacement.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nq7dP9VmH...pics%20010.jpg
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Old 10-23-2021, 08:25 PM   #6
travelin texans
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet Bum View Post
Thanks guys. I appreciate the advice. I don't seem to have the gadget valve on the top part of my water tank. It seems that I need termination caps for the 2 hoses to fully bypass and have fresh cold-only water; I think. I live in a isolated area and am relying on a very unreliable mobile RV repair company.
Without that check valve in the top outlet of your water heater you'd never get more than lukewarm water as it would always be mixing with the cold. Yours may have the black plastic check valve, if so replace it with the brass, that appears to be part of the tank, but there will be one there.
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