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Old 05-24-2020, 11:11 AM   #21
brim24
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I think the best point here is that the limit probably has to do with how well the supporting sub floor is than the plastic shower itself. I push 500lbs. (Trust me itís all power.). I stepped into a lot of showers when searching for our travel trailer and it was amazing how the same shower tub could feel different in from trailer to trailer. Mine was good but I slipped a couple more 2x4 blocks under to support just to be sure.
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:50 AM   #22
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Back when we purchased our old 2008 Outback 21RS, there were reports on the Outbackers.com forum of rather small people punching holes in their shower bottoms. Back then it was pretty common to look through the access panel on the front of the tub to find there would be very little support.

There would only be a couple short pieces of 2x4 under the shower. Yet another example of Keystone being extremely cheap. How much can some scrap 2x4 cost on a per trailer basis? They would be on edge wedged between the shower bottom and flooring. The preemptive fix was to just add a few more pieces of 2x4 so that the entire shower bottom was supported.

I'm well over 300 lbs and have never had a problem with the shower in our 2013 Outback 250RS. When we owned the 21RS I weighed less and never had any problems with that one as well.
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Old 05-24-2020, 02:30 PM   #23
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Wow! You're almost Rob Gronkowski's height!
Just out of curiosity, how tall is your wife?
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Old 05-24-2020, 02:45 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlh1957 View Post
If you can fit in an RV Shower it will hold the weight.
Most are a plastic fiberglass shell built over a plywood and either aluminum or wood joist frame.
Watch RV assembly videos or go to the factory tours.
Yes you feel some flex but not because itís weak.
Shower away!
These comments don't instill a lot of confidence for me!
I have toured the factories & watched as they cut about an 18" hole in the flooring for a 4" shower drain, cut a 4" hole for 1 piece of Romex or 1 piece of 1/2" pex piping, used about 700 wire brads to hold up a 2' piece of trim, so not a lot confidence in how well the shower is supported by the highly skilled factory workers. Personally would do your own inspection as to how well it may be supported.
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Old 05-24-2020, 03:38 PM   #25
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As a 6'6" 300+ guy, this is the sort of thing I check for in a rig. My last rig served me for 18 years before the tub section finally cracked and I had to have the entire surround replaced. The failure was clearly due to loss of plasticity (sun frying -- no way to block the skylight over the tub while in storage). In my current rig, I've blocked the two traditionally shaped skylights with Camco pillow pads, but the one over the shower stall is again too low-slope. Someday I plan to address this with velcro strips and coroplast, though I'm not sure how well adhesive velcro will hold up in a shower stall.
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Old 05-24-2020, 04:21 PM   #26
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As a 6'6" 300+ guy, this is the sort of thing I check for in a rig. My last rig served me for 18 years before the tub section finally cracked and I had to have the entire surround replaced. The failure was clearly due to loss of plasticity (sun frying -- no way to block the skylight over the tub while in storage). In my current rig, I've blocked the two traditionally shaped skylights with Camco pillow pads, but the one over the shower stall is again too low-slope. Someday I plan to address this with velcro strips and coroplast, though I'm not sure how well adhesive velcro will hold up in a shower stall.
You might consider removing the interior "dome bubble". It simply falls away when you remove the screws that hold it in place. Take a piece of the "frilly, non-slip shelf liner, tape it to the inside part of that "bubble" and set it back in place. The shelf liner will cut about 50% of the heat, UV rays and light, but will leave you with enough light to use the bathroom during the day without turning on the light. It'll save your shower "plastic parts" from the UV rays and keep the bathroom about 20* cooler during the hottest part of the day.
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Old 05-24-2020, 05:19 PM   #27
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We used limo window tint on our inside shower dome & had friends that got some peel & stick stained glass window covering to put on theirs, both work very well.
There's also a dark smoke colored dome replacement for the roof that's available if you want to go that trouble.
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Old 05-24-2020, 05:43 PM   #28
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You might consider removing the interior "dome bubble". It simply falls away when you remove the screws that hold it in place. Take a piece of the "frilly, non-slip shelf liner, tape it to the inside part of that "bubble" and set it back in place. The shelf liner will cut about 50% of the heat, UV rays and light, but will leave you with enough light to use the bathroom during the day without turning on the light. It'll save your shower "plastic parts" from the UV rays and keep the bathroom about 20* cooler during the hottest part of the day.
That's a better idea than I had. In fact, now I suspect it might be even easier just to buy some of that shelf liner with the Post-It adhesive on it and press-fit it to the inside of the dome where it sits. I think it's thin enough to be translucent. And if it falls off from the damp, it's cheap and easy enough to just use a new piece.

To me, the benefit of the skylight isn't the light, it's the headroom. I can do without the light (there's always the LED and the fan skylight), but at 6'6", I can't take a comfortable shower without that bubble in the ceiling.

I've already had the ceiling trim ring on that dome off. I tried reinforcing the back side of the rim because it was cracking at the screw holes, and then redrilling the screw holes to a "natural point of aim" so the screws wouldn't pull sideways. I had only minimal success, plus I discovered the rim was cracked in other places that weren't originally visible. The rig was less than a year old at the time. I'm not impressed with that material, and don't want to screw with it more than I have to.
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Old 05-25-2020, 02:17 AM   #29
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We have a 2012 Fuzion and have had 326 lbs in itour shower
often.
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Old 05-26-2020, 05:14 AM   #30
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If you can get access to under the tub, you can firm it up with a can or 2 of the expanding spray foam you can buy from any hardware store. You may need to find hose to extend the reach of that plastic straw that comes with the can (same hardware store). Find something heavy to put in the tub to weigh it down (I like sand bags). shoot the foam in underneath it, and leave it alone for the full cure time it says on the cans directions. It will feel rock solid next time you go in it.
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Old 05-26-2020, 05:20 AM   #31
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If you can get access to under the tub, you can firm it up with a can or 2 of the expanding spray foam you can buy from any hardware store. You may need to find hose to extend the reach of that plastic straw that comes with the can (same hardware store). Find something heavy to put in the tub to weigh it down (I like sand bags). shoot the foam in underneath it, and leave it alone for the full cure time it says on the cans directions. It will feel rock solid next time you go in it.
Works great, but DON'T OVERFILL WITH SPRAY FOAM !!!! If you do, you may find the sidewall of the tub or even the sidewall of the trailer "slightly bulging beyond its limits".... BTDT... There is a "non-expanding foam" and a "limited expansion foam" available in cans. The "grows to fill every space" type of foam can be dangerous in the hands of someone who thinks "a little bit more is better"...
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Old 05-26-2020, 05:32 AM   #32
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Wise words JRTJH, and strength of the sub-floor as mentioned in the earlier posts should also be investigated.
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