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Old 04-29-2020, 02:45 PM   #21
Keystoned
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Yes, amazing what a picture will do, lol
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Old 04-29-2020, 02:51 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Logan X View Post
The friction created by the equalizer hitch is not metal on metal contact but rather from the force of the spring bars pressing on the l brackets. Equalizer says to grease the hitch.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/manua...ar-maintenance

We’re agreed you shouldn't grease your brakes
This is referring to the pivot point for the bars where they attach to the head, NOT putting lube on the sliding surface of the brackets. Look closely at the picture you posted.
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Old 04-29-2020, 03:09 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by JBWardFamily View Post
Hi all. I'm hoping to pick up a "new to us" 2017 Cougar X-Lite 33MLS next week. An old timer (stepdad) told me that with my 2019 F250, I probably didn't need a weight distribution hitch. Is that even close to true? I'm still planning to get one, but the question I have is that when you get to your site, do you have to remove the bars to make the tight turns? Also, what is the most economical way to get the 8 inches of drop I need for the hitch to be level? The suspension is stock on the F250, but I do have 35/12.50/18s on them which took me two inches higher. Thanks.
I looked at reviews on google for WDH's, the best reviews were for two makes.
Equalizer and Blue Ox. The Blue Ox was alot cheaper at $695 from amazon, my dealership for the bullet sold them for $850.
I got the 1500 Sway pro, and I did not regret it. It took a couple of trips to figure out how to really dial it in perfectly. It allowed my Sierra 1500 to tow it capably. When I purchased the Sierra 2500 I didn't have to adjust the height on the hitch and the link count for tension remained the same. Towed beautifully. I put it on Kijiji and didn't take long to sell it. If I went back to a TT I would not think twice of buying another. I wouldn't tow your trailer without a WDH hitch.
Good Luck on your decision.
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Old 04-29-2020, 04:31 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
This is referring to the pivot point for the bars where they attach to the head, NOT putting lube on the sliding surface of the brackets. Look closely at the picture you posted.
I don’t think I was insinuating to do anything other than grease the pivot points on the head, however, since you brought it up...

Equalizer says (see the picture of an email from an equalizer engineer below) putting grease on the L brackets does not noticeably reduce sway control. They don’t recommend doing it because it is messy. They suggest buying sway bracket jackets to reduce noise at the L bracket.

I put a light coat of grease on the L brackets as well as the hitch head. I spent the $20 I saved from not buying the sway bracket jackets on gas station snacks.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store...et-jacket-pair
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Old 04-29-2020, 05:26 PM   #25
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Thanks for all the input. Based on info from ETrailer.com, I'm going to go with the CURT TruTrack WDH with Sway Control and the 15k weight and 1500 TW allowance. I'll buy the drop hitch to convert it to the 2 1/2 inch hitch receiver and give me some options for my height. The reviews are all good and seems like a good system. I'd rather be over prepared than just buy a hitch to hit the 10k mark. Crazy excited to get the camper in the driveway. Hoping to get it Monday or Tuesday of next week.
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Old 04-29-2020, 05:55 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by JBWardFamily View Post
Thanks for all the input. Based on info from ETrailer.com, I'm going to go with the CURT TruTrack WDH with Sway Control and the 15k weight and 1500 TW allowance. I'll buy the drop hitch to convert it to the 2 1/2 inch hitch receiver and give me some options for my height. The reviews are all good and seems like a good system. I'd rather be over prepared than just buy a hitch to hit the 10k mark. Crazy excited to get the camper in the driveway. Hoping to get it Monday or Tuesday of next week.
That looks like a good hitch choice. I hope you get your camper soon!
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Old 04-29-2020, 06:42 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by JBWardFamily View Post
Thanks for all the input. Based on info from ETrailer.com, I'm going to go with the CURT TruTrack WDH with Sway Control and the 15k weight and 1500 TW allowance. I'll buy the drop hitch to convert it to the 2 1/2 inch hitch receiver and give me some options for my height. The reviews are all good and seems like a good system. I'd rather be over prepared than just buy a hitch to hit the 10k mark. Crazy excited to get the camper in the driveway. Hoping to get it Monday or Tuesday of next week.


Good luck with hitch. Realize it is a 2 point hitch from the description I saw. With a 10k trailer and up to 1200 lbs. tongue weight (and 36' of sail) it hopefully provides more. The "ball bearing" detent, trying to return "home" is used on other hitches.

One thing I would caution is that throwing 1500 lb. bars on a 1000 lb. tongue weight could provide some rough handling. You need to balance the wd with the actual tongue weight vs total overkill. It will go from a possible benefit to a harsh ride....and stuff laying around in the trailer possibly.
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Old 04-30-2020, 06:34 AM   #28
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<clip>

Also, remember that the Ford ratings for your receiver are based on the 2.5" size. If you insert a "conventional hitch" into the receiver using the 2" adapter sleeve, you significantly reduce the receiver weight ratings.

<clip>
John

Why does the sleeve reduce the receiver weight ratings?

I'm embarrassed to say I don't know the ID of the hitch receiver. And the owner's manual is not much help in this area. I'd go out and check but I'm temporarily laid up with foot issues, so hobbling out there is not a task I would willingly take! I always assumed I had a 2.5 inch hitch receiver, but ...

I can see if it's a different class that would impact loading, but I don't understand how adding a sleeve impacts the rating of the original hitch.

Please educate me on this. Thanks.

Ken
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Old 04-30-2020, 06:39 AM   #29
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The problem the OP might have is unknown tongue weight. Until he loads it up for a trip and weights it, we are all just guessing what it might be using percents, etc..
That really bit me in 2015 when we bought our TT. It was not even close and I had to redo everything by the time it was done. After that it was much better with no white knuckle drives after dialing it in.
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Old 04-30-2020, 06:44 AM   #30
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Hi all. OP here. The tongue weight is "supposed" to be between 800 and 1000 pounds. I went ahead and ordered a hitch capable of 1500lb because we will inevitably end up with a larger camper after 3 or 4 years. The drop shank I ordered will make it a 2 1/2 inch receiver hitch so there will be no sleeve necessary. I'm sure it will take a few trips to dial everything in. Thanks for all the input on making a selection.
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:02 AM   #31
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If it's any consolation our first setup was undersized by the staff at CW.
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:23 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by SummitPond View Post
John

Why does the sleeve reduce the receiver weight ratings?

I'm embarrassed to say I don't know the ID of the hitch receiver. And the owner's manual is not much help in this area. I'd go out and check but I'm temporarily laid up with foot issues, so hobbling out there is not a task I would willingly take! I always assumed I had a 2.5 inch hitch receiver, but ...

I can see if it's a different class that would impact loading, but I don't understand how adding a sleeve impacts the rating of the original hitch.

Please educate me on this. Thanks.

Ken
I don't think the actual sleeve reduces it but rather the limiting factor would be the smaller receiver that fits into the sleeve.
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:38 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by SummitPond View Post
John

Why does the sleeve reduce the receiver weight ratings?

Ken
.

Essentially, as with any assembly of components, the "entire assembly" assumes the limitations of the weakest link. What that means is that if your truck has a 2.5" receiver rated at 1800/18,000 (TW/MAX TLR) and you install a 2.5" shank rated at 1800/18,000 then the receiver is capable of towing that much weight.

On the other hand, if you insert a 2.5:2" sleeve and a 2" shank rated at 1400/14,000, then your receiver (even though it's rating is higher) can only tow the 1400/14,000 pound capacity (because it's limited by the shank rating).

That goes for any component used in the assembly. For instance, if the receiver is rated 1800/18,000, a 2" shank rated at 1400/14,000 and a WD hitch rated at 1250/12,500, then the "assembly" is limited to the lowest rated component, in this case the WD hitch.

Now, take that same assembly and install a trailer ball that's rated at 6,000 pounds max and that ENTIRE assembly is limited to towing a 6,000 pound trailer....

Sort of like installing 12,000 pound safety chains on the trailer tongue with 3/8" grade 5 bolts and "S" hooks rated at 1,000 pounds. Even though you've got a "hefty chain" it'll break (the entire assembly, not the chain) as soon as you reach the "lightweight "S" hook capacity.

So, the receiver rating is limited (from its maximum capacity) when you install a 2" sleeve and install a "lighter rated shank"....
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:58 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
.

Essentially, as with any assembly of components, the "entire assembly" assumes the limitations of the weakest link. What that means is that if your truck has a 2.5" receiver rated at 1800/18,000 (TW/MAX TLR) and you install a 2.5" shank rated at 1800/18,000 then the receiver is capable of towing that much weight.

On the other hand, if you insert a 2.5:2" sleeve and a 2" shank rated at 1400/14,000, then your receiver (even though it's rating is higher) can only tow the 1400/14,000 pound capacity (because it's limited by the shank rating).

That goes for any component used in the assembly. For instance, if the receiver is rated 1800/18,000, a 2" shank rated at 1400/14,000 and a WD hitch rated at 1250/12,500, then the "assembly" is limited to the lowest rated component, in this case the WD hitch.

Now, take that same assembly and install a trailer ball that's rated at 6,000 pounds max and that ENTIRE assembly is limited to towing a 6,000 pound trailer....

Sort of like installing 12,000 pound safety chains on the trailer tongue with 3/8" grade 5 bolts and "S" hooks rated at 1,000 pounds. Even though you've got a "hefty chain" it'll break (the entire assembly, not the chain) as soon as you reach the "lightweight "S" hook capacity.

So, the receiver rating is limited (from its maximum capacity) when you install a 2" sleeve and install a "lighter rated shank"....
But if the 2" shank rated for 1500lbs TW / 15000lbs Max tow weight, then whether it is in a sleeve or not doesn't diminish it's capability. The 2.5" receiver is rated higher than the 2" but does not affect the tongue and tow capacity of the WDH. Unless I am wrong
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:02 AM   #35
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<clip>
So, the receiver rating is limited (from its maximum capacity) when you install a 2" sleeve and install a "lighter rated shank"....
That makes PERFECT sense! I was over thinking the problem - focused on the receiver and not the hitch that would go into the receiver.

Thanks.
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:32 AM   #36
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But if the 2" shank rated for 1500lbs TW / 15000lbs Max tow weight, then whether it is in a sleeve or not doesn't diminish it's capability. The 2.5" receiver is rated higher than the 2" but does not affect the tongue and tow capacity of the WDH. Unless I am wrong
If you're looking for a "reason to argue about a post" then yeah, check your post, you forgot the "," in 15000lbs (and there's no space between the 15000 and the lbs)…

I think the ENTIRE post will provide the answer to "your "but" and your "argument" is specifically addressed further in the body of my post. I wouldn't suggest you're "wrong", just that you apparently didn't read my entire post.... If that's not the reason, I don't think I could provide the answers you're seeking... After all, "oh never mind"...
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Old 05-07-2020, 07:32 AM   #37
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The friction created by the equalizer hitch is not metal on metal contact but rather from the force of the spring bars pressing on the l brackets. Equalizer says to grease the hitch.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/manua...ar-maintenance

We’re agreed you shouldn't grease your brakes
This hitch works great. You grease the "hitch" meaning the ball. The bars are not meant to be greased. This IS your sway control. Greasing them defeats the purpose. The bars should be directly flat on the L brackets for best anti-sway. They do tend to squack as you make tight turns. you can remove the bars upon arrival or just deal with it coming in. Let them look.

That being said they do make nylon anti-squeak pads that go between the bar and bracket. They are not as slippery as grease but not at tight as nothing- metal on metal.

I have never had an issue using them but then my trailer tows very well without the WD bars. (whooops...taboo for some of you). And yes I do run without on shorter trips. Good tires and at least a 3/4 ton makes a difference. DO NOT run without on a half ton. Bigger difference there.

You do you
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Old 05-07-2020, 08:09 AM   #38
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You grease the "hitch" meaning the ball. The bars are not meant to be greased. This IS your sway control. Greasing them defeats the purpose. The bars should be directly flat on the L brackets for best anti-sway. They do tend to squack as you make tight turns. you can remove the bars upon arrival or just deal with it coming in. Let them look

You do you
Sorry, but you are mistaken. See Posts 18 and 24.
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Old 05-07-2020, 08:21 AM   #39
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My setup was a lot shorter that yours, 25ft Premier towed by an F-150, but I used an Anderson Anti Sway/Weight Distribution hitch and it controlled sway very well and allowed to park in reverse without removal. I have a 5'er and one ton today, but that was a very functional and reliable setup.
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Old 05-07-2020, 08:36 AM   #40
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In my opinion yes you need a WDH with sway control.
I totally agree
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