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Old 10-23-2019, 04:26 PM   #1
Steve's 70-5
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Wait Till Spring Or.......

Winterizing the TT for the first time, 2020 Laredo 225MK, first time I have every did this. I have winterized a pool several times. I am using compressed air and blowing out the lines, have done this 3 times and will probably do it a couple more times. As of tonight, all I am getting is air out of the lines/faucets. Took the lines off both sides of the water pump and ran it. Took the filter bowl off and emptied it out. Dumped anti-freeze in the traps.


My questions is. Can I switch the by-pass back, on the back of the water heater now, so I don't have to do this in the spring. If I "switch back" now, I can put the panels back around the water heater and put the garage/storage area in the TT back together.
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Old 10-24-2019, 01:38 AM   #2
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Yes, if all the water is out of the lines and the water heater drained, no problem.
The bypass is there so that you dont have to fill the WH with antifreeze and or aid in blowing out the system as to not to refill the WH.
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Old 10-24-2019, 05:36 AM   #3
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Did you step on foot pedal of the toilet and blow the water out of the valve. I did not do this step and water ever where in bath room when it froze.

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Old 10-24-2019, 06:52 AM   #4
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If you add antifreeze to the plumbing lines, leave the water heater in bypass position. Antifreeze is corrosive to the water heater tank lining.

If you only use compressed air to remove water from the lines, there's no antifreeze, so it becomes a "personal choice".... Remember, however, that part of a "safe and effective de-winterization process" contains a step that says: "CHECK ALL PLUMBING FOR LEAKS BEFORE CLOSING UP ACCESS PANELS".... YMMV
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:42 AM   #5
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"I am using compressed air and blowing out the lines, have done this 3 times and will probably do it a couple more times."

Curious why you would do this. No need to do this more than once if the air is coming out dry.
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Old 10-24-2019, 04:39 PM   #6
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Did you step on foot pedal of the toilet and blow the water out of the valve. I did not do this step and water ever where in bath room when it froze.

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Richard
Yes, every time I had air on the system
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Old 10-24-2019, 04:43 PM   #7
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"I am using compressed air and blowing out the lines, have done this 3 times and will probably do it a couple more times."

Curious why you would do this. No need to do this more than once if the air is coming out dry.



I figure there would just moisture in the water lines, as they sit the moisture would gather at the lowest point. I also have a nice air compressor that just sits, good way to let it run.
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Old 10-24-2019, 05:53 PM   #8
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I figure there would just moisture in the water lines, as they sit the moisture would gather at the lowest point. I also have a nice air compressor that just sits, good way to let it run.
Ok, if your "nice compressor" has an air line dryer than once is enough, if it doesn't you may be adding moisture but if you like to hear the compressor run more power to you.
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Old 10-24-2019, 07:35 PM   #9
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I figure there would just moisture in the water lines, as they sit the moisture would gather at the lowest point. I also have a nice air compressor that just sits, good way to let it run.
Remember that "low point drains" and "the lowest point" is not necessarily where the low point drains are located. What that means is that RV plumbing lines are not installed "on a true slope" and even if they were, having the trailer slightly "nose high" or "nose low" or "DS high" or "Road side high" would negate any "slight slope in the plumbing lines"...

So, moisture may collect "in the low point" but that isn't going to necessarily be, "the place where it will drain out via gravity".... In other words, water can (and probably will) be trapped in low points within the plumbing runs and it may not make it to the low point drains on its own. Possibly opening the low point drains and pressurizing the system with air will "push" or "atomize and push" most of it to the low points where it can exit the trailer. Hopefully, what's left in the system will be such a small amount that should it freeze, there won't be enough volume to solidify and expand enough to cause damage.

That's one reason why, in extremely cold climates, compressed air (to remove as much water as possible, followed by antifreeze is the most effective/safest way to protect the entire RV water system.
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Old 10-27-2019, 09:28 PM   #10
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yep, and this is what I do I blow out the lines as best as I can, even my outside spray and pour as much of the pink stuff down the drain, and open all the faults never had a problem.
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Old 10-28-2019, 09:25 AM   #11
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I too didn't think about the little valves in the stool (2 in my case) and they froze, even though I blew out the lines. I was a costly lesson. I now have the little bypass near the pump so I can pump antifreeze right from the bottle into the lines. With 38 feet of trailer and two baths it just made sense.
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Old 11-03-2019, 11:34 AM   #12
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For the $2.50-$3.00 a gallon that the antifreeze costs, I wouldn't winterize any other way. My 45' toy hauler with a washer/dryer unit in it only uses 3 gallons to do the job. I leave my water heater bypass in winterize over the winter and drain it. In the spring, I flush all the lines, then put the water heater back into operation.

$12-$15 dollars worth of antifreeze and the hour of time that it takes to winterize is far cheaper than whatever than repairing the broken lines in the spring plus any other damages that may occur.

This advice is worth what you pay for it.
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Old 11-03-2019, 07:07 PM   #13
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I am a proponent of using antifreeze.

A couple years ago, a friend who does the compressed air method was camping with us. We were sitting at a picnic table play cards when I asked him why there was water running out the side of his trailer. Yet another victim of not making sure the toilet valve was clear of water. It had frozen and cracked the prior winter and it was his first trip of the year. It took about half a day for him to find a place where he could get a cap for the line and ended up with water but no toilet for the remainder of the trip.

Around here, Ace hardware puts rv antifreeze on sale for either 2 for $5 or 2 for $6 every September. I can do my Outback 250RS with two gallons which I think is pretty cheap insurance.
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