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Old 09-20-2019, 10:05 PM   #1
Jblan09
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Delaminated on a 2018 hideout 177lhs

The front cap on my 2018 is starting to delaminate can someone tell me how hard it is to fix myself. I'm a retired carpenter and very good with my hands. At this point I think that the glue has let go can not find any sign of water inside of the camper
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Old 09-21-2019, 03:26 AM   #2
CrazyCain
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Do you have a picture? Is it not Aluminum sided. Just wondering because i have a 2016 Hideout and wondering about delamination on Aluminum?
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Old 09-21-2019, 05:19 AM   #3
Jblan09
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It is aluminum it's lifting off the roof looks like it was never under the trim piece that covers that joint. The spot is about a foot wide. I have it taped down till I find out if keystone will warenty it or till I figure out how to get parts and fix it myself
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Old 09-21-2019, 07:23 AM   #4
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Pictures would help I think. I have seen "how to" videos for fiberglass (or whatever the outside stuff is that appears to be fiberglass) delamination fixing. Not for aluminum.
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Old 09-21-2019, 08:03 AM   #5
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Typicallly, "delamination" applies to FILON, in which the fiberglass substrate has separated from the "laminated base layer". The fiberglass is extremely thin, unable to support itself and is usually "glued to luan) (Far Eastern hardwood plywood) or cardboard/hardboard. Some newer construction uses ADZEL, a waterproof base layer. Delamination usually is caused by water damage to the base layer which disintegrates or rots away, leaving the fiberglass unsupported and subjected to water damage. Usually, the water creeps into small openings in the fiberglass and heat causes steam expansion or cold causes ice damage, both conditions cause the water to expand, pushing the fiberglass voids open. That makes the voids (bubbles) larger and destroys the fiberglass.

What you have is an aluminum skin trailer. There is no "glued on base layer" so the skin is not "laminated", therefore it can't "de-laminate".

I think, based on your description, the front panel of your aluminum skin has shifted down and pulled away from the roof. It could be caused by the sheet being cut too small, the staples pulling away from the underlaying framework or from some other cause. That's the reason for the request for photos. With a clearer understanding of what is damaged on your trailer, a better repair plan can be suggested.

ADDED: If your trailer is covered by Keystone's 3 year structural warranty, the damage MAY be covered under warranty and could be repaired by your dealership. That would require their inspection, coordination with Keystone and an approval by the factory. If you start taking things apart, you'll probably void your warranty, so I'd suggest you explore all your options before "ripping into a repair".....
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:01 AM   #6
Jblan09
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Typicallly, "delamination" applies to FILON, in which the fiberglass substrate has separated from the "laminated base layer". The fiberglass is extremely thin, unable to support itself and is usually "glued to luan) (Far Eastern hardwood plywood) or cardboard/hardboard. Some newer construction uses ADZEL, a waterproof base layer. Delamination usually is caused by water damage to the base layer which disintegrates or rots away, leaving the fiberglass unsupported and subjected to water damage. Usually, the water creeps into small openings in the fiberglass and heat causes steam expansion or cold causes ice damage, both conditions cause the water to expand, pushing the fiberglass voids open. That makes the voids (bubbles) larger and destroys the fiberglass.

What you have is an aluminum skin trailer. There is no "glued on base layer" so the skin is not "laminated", therefore it can't "de-laminate".

I think, based on your description, the front panel of your aluminum skin has shifted down and pulled away from the roof. It could be caused by the sheet being cut too small, the staples pulling away from the underlaying framework or from some other cause. That's the reason for the request for photos. With a clearer understanding of what is damaged on your trailer, a better repair plan can be suggested.

ADDED: If your trailer is covered by Keystone's 3 year structural warranty, the damage MAY be covered under warranty and could be repaired by your dealership. That would require their inspection, coordination with Keystone and an approval by the factory. If you start taking things apart, you'll probably void your warranty, so I'd suggest you explore all your options before "ripping into a repair".....
It is sitting at camping world as we speak. Been there 3 weeks.still waiting to hear from them. I don't have pictures till they do there thing. I'm just trying to get an idea of how the front skin is put on how and where to get the corner trim and trim that goes across the top joint along with the panels and need to know if they have specific screw's
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:20 AM   #7
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You can get the aluminum side and top molding at any RV parts counter or at Trekwood.com or most other internet RV parts sites.

The screws are self tapping #2 Roberts, probably 1.25" long. The front panel is stapled to the wood/aluminum trailer frame, then the molding is installed around the perimeter of the skin. There's usually clay putty tape (not butyl) under the moldings. Once the skin is secured on the sides and bottom, the roof structure is installed, the TPO is laid in place, rolled to contact all the adhesive and trimmed to fit. Then the front, top molding is installed. Once the entire roof molding is in place, the DICOR (or Alpha Systems) sealant is applied to the roof, front, side and rear surfaces of the trailer. There's probably 15 or 20 tubes of sealant on the trailer.

Depending on the actual separation of your front skin, it could be as easy as installing a strip of Eterna-bond tape, installing an additional "joiner strip" and resealing it, or possibly removing the entire front skin replacing it and possibly even rebuilding a part of the framework. It's impossible to "best guess" what's necessary without knowing "what's there now"....
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:45 AM   #8
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You can get the aluminum side and top molding at any RV parts counter or at Trekwood.com or most other internet RV parts sites.

The screws are self tapping #2 Roberts, probably 1.25" long. The front panel is stapled to the wood/aluminum trailer frame, then the molding is installed around the perimeter of the skin. There's usually clay putty tape (not butyl) under the moldings. Once the skin is secured on the sides and bottom, the roof structure is installed, the TPO is laid in place, rolled to contact all the adhesive and trimmed to fit. Then the front, top molding is installed. Once the entire roof molding is in place, the DICOR (or Alpha Systems) sealant is applied to the roof, front, side and rear surfaces of the trailer. There's probably 15 or 20 tubes of sealant on the trailer.

Depending on the actual separation of your front skin, it could be as easy as installing a strip of Eterna-bond tape, installing an additional "joiner strip" and resealing it, or possibly removing the entire front skin replacing it and possibly even rebuilding a part of the framework. It's impossible to "best guess" what's necessary without knowing "what's there now"....
Thank you that is the info I was looking for . I'm hoping that keystone will honor they're warenty. From what I hear the odds aren't real good. I have been told they will try to claim I have a leak that caused this. I have not found any trace of water inside anywhere. The problem was not there when I cleaned the roof and put the cover on it after camping memioral day weekend. Mid aug. I took the cover off to measure for resealing the roof that is when I found this problem. We have had a very hot summer here many days over 101. Also we use a dehumidifier 12hrs. A day on it when parked in our driveway
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:59 AM   #9
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If you do wind up repairing it yourself, most times you can salvage the molding by removing it carefully, cleaning the old putty tape off and cleaning it up. If you "rip it off the sides" you'll bend the molding and it will never fit well again, so be careful on disassembly and you should be able to reuse most of the parts.
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Old 09-21-2019, 06:36 PM   #10
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Camping World? That was a mistake.

Spend $25 and join https://thervadvisor.com/. It appears you are in Florida, so are they and will give you excellent advice and will get your RV fixed.
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Old 09-28-2019, 04:54 AM   #11
Jblan09
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Camping World? That was a mistake.

Spend $25 and join https://thervadvisor.com/. It appears you are in Florida, so are they and will give you excellent advice and will get your RV fixed.
A quick update my insurance appriser has just let me know that in his opinion that this problem is a manufacturer defect. Camping world has had my camper since 09/09/19 still no word from them. I hope keystone will honor they're warenty but from what I hear that is less than a 50/50 chance any advice on how to deal with them would be very helpful. Thanks
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:58 AM   #12
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A quick update my insurance appriser has just let me know that in his opinion that this problem is a manufacturer defect. Camping world has had my camper since 09/09/19 still no word from them. I hope keystone will honor they're warenty but from what I hear that is less than a 50/50 chance any advice on how to deal with them would be very helpful. Thanks
It's been my experience that Keystone is "as likely as any other RV manufacturer" to approve/disapprove a warranty claim. The key to approval, IMHO, is a complete OBJECTIVE report by the dealership to include the "who, what, when, where, why" of the problem. The OBJECTIVE report should be clear, concise, document all prior maintenance, user repairs, current condition of the problem, any damage that has occurred, all parts that are involved, photos of the area in question and the dealer's documentation of what happened and why it happened. An "opinion" (the only subjective information) should accompany the report. That "opinion" is the "dealer's expert assessment" as to whether the problem is a manufacturer's issue or a owner's issue.

It's been my experience (limited as it is) that Keystone is extremely fair in dealing with warranty issues that are properly documented and that can substantiate that the problem is "clearly a manufacturer's issue"....

Depending on what your dealership sends to Keystone will "create that first (and lasting) impression" and the rest will fall into place behind that document. So, as with almost anything, "You get only one chance to make a good first impression".... Let's hope the Camping World outlet where your trailer is parked did their job. If so, you should be "golden" if they failed, expect that Keystone is also going to be "the bad guy" once you get their answer.

Oh, did I mention: COMPLETE and OBJECTIVE reporting is the key ???
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:49 PM   #13
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So, how did cAmping world and keyston e respond to your issues? Did they help at all? Gathering anecdotal information before someplace out ten year old trailer. Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:57 PM   #14
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Still trying to get keystone to cover it. They might do it under a Goodwill clause. But camping world is extremely slow to get all the info to them.
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Old 02-23-2020, 09:26 PM   #15
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I know this thread is 4 months old but I was wondering how it all worked out? I was wondering because I have the same issue and wanted to know what it cost if it wasn't covered under warranty.
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:53 AM   #16
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Jblan09, the OP, according to his profile, was last on the forum on 10-28-2019 at 06:52 AM. Unfortunately, we may not get any followup on his problems.
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