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Old 08-30-2019, 05:43 PM   #1
Customer1
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Tailgate clearance/tongue jack

On my old trailer the tailgate cleared the power tongue jack head when opened. This Cougar the jack head prevents opening the tailgate.

I know on some jacks you can unbolt the head and turn it to the side. I have the Lippert Ground Control 3.0 leveling system, can I turn the hitch head? I'm a little leery about messing with it since the tongue jack is part of the leveling system.

Thanks
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Old 08-30-2019, 06:46 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customer1 View Post
On my old trailer the tailgate cleared the power tongue jack head when opened. This Cougar the jack head prevents opening the tailgate.

I know on some jacks you can unbolt the head and turn it to the side. I have the Lippert Ground Control 3.0 leveling system, can I turn the hitch head? I'm a little leery about messing with it since the tongue jack is part of the leveling system.

Thanks
On our Laredo I wanted to turn the electric tongue jack a third (120 degree's), to get more clearance for tailgate, only to find out the bolt pattern will not allow that. I looked at trying to just turn the power head 180 degree's however that looked difficult, maybe not possible(that was a year ago).

Chris
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Old 09-01-2019, 05:49 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customer1 View Post
On my old trailer the tailgate cleared the power tongue jack head when opened. This Cougar the jack head prevents opening the tailgate.

I know on some jacks you can unbolt the head and turn it to the side. I have the Lippert Ground Control 3.0 leveling system, can I turn the hitch head? I'm a little leery about messing with it since the tongue jack is part of the leveling system.

Thanks
Did the quarter turn on mine (same as yours). No problems and the holes line up.
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Old 09-01-2019, 10:30 AM   #4
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On mine, I had to do the quarter also, 1 of 3 bolt holes lined up. After looking the over, I drilled the other 2 holes that were needed. On my there is enough flat steel to do so and not enlarge any existing holes.
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Old 09-01-2019, 02:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66joej View Post
Did the quarter turn on mine (same as yours). No problems and the holes line up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia View Post
On mine, I had to do the quarter also, 1 of 3 bolt holes lined up. After looking the over, I drilled the other 2 holes that were needed. On my there is enough flat steel to do so and not enlarge any existing holes.
66joej, did you turn the jack or the head?

Ken/Claudia, It appears you repositioned the entire jack, correct? I can probably drill new mount holes from the looks of it.
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Old 09-01-2019, 03:50 PM   #6
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I turned mine 180 degrees, Took out the two bolts under the rubber plugs turned and installed the bolts. Now I have about 1 inch clearance.
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Old 09-01-2019, 04:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by MSB1766 View Post
I turned mine 180 degrees, Took out the two bolts under the rubber plugs turned and installed the bolts. Now I have about 1 inch clearance.
I have to go look at mine again then. Was it a Lippert tongue jack? I can only open tail gate when parked pretty much straight on! Chris
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Old 09-01-2019, 04:59 PM   #8
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Picture of your tongue jack?

I turned my Lippert jack head 90 degrees for my tailgate to clear.

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Old 09-01-2019, 05:55 PM   #9
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Picture of your tongue jack?

I turned my Lippert jack head 90 degrees for my tailgate to clear.

So what was involved in turning the head 90 degrees? I want to do it. Thanks Chris
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Old 09-01-2019, 06:02 PM   #10
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On mine the mount plate is solid, I rotated the whole jack quarter turn, 1 factory hole was still lining up. No others. I got under the frame and found I could drill 2 new holes and mount it. The whole process took an extra hour to have a powered jack. I am still glad I did it.
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Old 09-02-2019, 12:54 AM   #11
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So what was involved in turning the head 90 degrees? I want to do it. Thanks Chris
I connected the truck, so there was no weight on the jack.
I disconnected power by removing the inline fuse to the jack.
I removed the two bolts from each side holding the motor head on.
Motor head lifted up and off the post.
There were two additional holes 90 degrees from the original ones used. They will need to be threaded (Tapped) to be able to accept the mounting screws.
Then screw the head back on in the new position.

So only the motor head is rotated, nothing else.

I hope that makes sense...
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Old 09-02-2019, 05:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WNY Bullet View Post
I connected the truck, so there was no weight on the jack.
I disconnected power by removing the inline fuse to the jack.
I removed the two bolts from each side holding the motor head on.
Motor head lifted up and off the post.
There were two additional holes 90 degrees from the original ones used. They will need to be threaded (Tapped) to be able to accept the mounting screws.
Then screw the head back on in the new position.

So only the motor head is rotated, nothing else.

I hope that makes sense...
OK this is today's project if I have the right size tap. Will have to find the bag of taps I have first. When we downsize out of a home to two RV resorts, sometimes things are in the wrong state when you want to use them.

Thanks Chris
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Old 09-02-2019, 06:05 AM   #13
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OK this is today's project if I have the right size tap. Will have to find the bag of taps I have first. When we downsize out of a home to two RV resorts, sometimes things are in the wrong state when you want to use them.

Thanks Chris
Yeah, I couldn't find the right tap in my tool box, so a trip to Home Depot and I bought a new one.

Mike
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Old 09-02-2019, 06:36 AM   #14
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Yeah, I couldn't find the right tap in my tool box, so a trip to Home Depot and I bought a new one.

Mike
So you took out the four lower screws on the cover and the two at the top under the plug to see 'things' and accomplish the turning 90 degrees. Or are the two screws behind the to side plugs, and one can do it with the covers on? Thanks again for you input. Chris
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Old 09-02-2019, 06:38 AM   #15
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So you took out the four lower screws on the cover and the two at the top under the plug to see 'things' and accomplish the turning 90 degrees. Or are the two screws behind the to side plugs, and one can do it with the covers on? Thanks again for you input. Chris
Just the two bolts under the side plugs and the whole head will lift off
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Old 09-02-2019, 06:47 AM   #16
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Just the two bolts under the side plugs and the whole head will lift off
OK, thanks. Trailer is setting real level and I have a lot of blockage setting next the the trailer and the wheel chocks are in place(home made with two pieces of 4x4 with ends beveled to match the curve of the tires) and an all thread rod that locks them between the tires, so I can do it without hitching up. Chris
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Old 09-02-2019, 06:50 AM   #17
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OK, thanks. Trailer is setting real level and I have a lot of blockage setting next the the trailer and the wheel chocks are in place(home made with two pieces of 4x4 with ends beveled to match the curve of the tires) and an all thread rod that locks them between the tires, so I can do it without hitching up. Chris
You will need to support the tongue so you can raise the jack to take pressure off so you can remove the head. So it was easiest just to hook up.
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:14 AM   #18
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Turning Lippert Power Tongue jack 90 degrees

I Credit WNT Bullet for this project:

First off I would like to say it was more work freeing up the wire bundle that actually turning the head 90 degrees to the drivers side.

1. You will need a 5/16-18 tread tap. The one pictured is the first one I found and it was a bottom tap and I had to go back to the bag and find one with the starting taper.

2. After freeing up the wire bundle to allow enough slack to lift the head off, removing the two 5/16 bolts the drive head lifted right off. I removed one propane tank and the drivers side equalizer saddle to get at the wiring bundle.

3. I then turned lead screw in the post 90 degree so I would be ready to line up at the new position.

4. I pushed some paper towel pieces down below where the two existing fore and aft holes needed to be tapped with 5/16-18 threads.

5. I vacuumed out the tapping debris and remove the paper towel pieces.

6. Reinstalled the head and two 5/16 bolts

As shown in the attached pictures I gained 3 1/2" which is going to be great. Chris
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Old 09-02-2019, 11:02 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoking View Post
I Credit WNT Bullet for this project:

First off I would like to say it was more work freeing up the wire bundle that actually turning the head 90 degrees to the drivers side.

1. You will need a 5/16-18 tread tap. The one pictured is the first one I found and it was a bottom tap and I had to go back to the bag and find one with the starting taper.

2. After freeing up the wire bundle to allow enough slack to lift the head off, removing the two 5/16 bolts the drive head lifted right off. I removed one propane tank and the drivers side equalizer saddle to get at the wiring bundle.

3. I then turned lead screw in the post 90 degree so I would be ready to line up at the new position.

4. I pushed some paper towel pieces down below where the two existing fore and aft holes needed to be tapped with 5/16-18 threads.

5. I vacuumed out the tapping debris and remove the paper towel pieces.

6. Reinstalled the head and two 5/16 bolts

As shown in the attached pictures I gain 3 1/2" which is going to be great. Chris
Glad it worked out for you.
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Old 09-02-2019, 05:05 PM   #20
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Thanks for all your input, looks like I will be turning the head.
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