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Old 07-27-2019, 12:11 PM   #41
retiredusps69
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You might want to cut in a power cord hatch access door. Then you can store your cable in the trailer with every thing hooked up.They run about $16.00 on Ebay Would save you from trying to reduce the opening you now have.You could even get one that is just a door so you won't get critters.Make a bracket to hang your twist lock and be done.
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Old 07-27-2019, 07:50 PM   #42
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If I were trying to close off a 5" hole and mounting a 3" plug in its place, I think I'd fabricate a 1/8" thick 6x6 or 8x8 aluminum plate with the 3" hole cut in it. Paint it to match the remaining plastic/metal components on the trailer, then use butyl putty tape and put it in place, securing with 4, 6 or even 8 screws if needed. Then install the 30 amp receptacle to the hole in the plate.
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Old 07-28-2019, 12:43 AM   #43
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Have any of you done the inlet conversion? My problem is to convert the 5 " hole to the 3" inlet box. I saw some kits online, but based on searches here, they don't fix the keystones old hole, so you have to rig them up anyway. Since I already have the new inlet box, figured just easier to find a way to rig it up without buying a $90 kit that doesn't fit.
My kit came with a reducing ring.

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Mar...S7Y0HKWHFY973G
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Old 07-28-2019, 06:19 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
If I were trying to close off a 5" hole and mounting a 3" plug in its place, I think I'd fabricate a 1/8" thick 6x6 or 8x8 aluminum plate with the 3" hole cut in it. Paint it to match the remaining plastic/metal components on the trailer, then use butyl putty tape and put it in place, securing with 4, 6 or even 8 screws if needed. Then install the 30 amp receptacle to the hole in the plate.
That's pretty much what I did. Used a piece of 1/4" starboard and a backer board inside. The starboard is easy to work with.
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Old 07-28-2019, 07:07 AM   #45
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:35 AM   #46
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I'd highly recommend getting the 90 degree plug pictured, it'll save the cord from seperating from the plug eventually.
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Old 07-29-2019, 07:24 AM   #47
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I'd highly recommend getting the 90 degree plug pictured, it'll save the cord from separating from the plug eventually.
Nice! Does that have a locking tab to keep it from working loose? Actually do any of them? I've been wanting to get rid of the mouse hole and wadded up cord and install one of these.
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Old 07-29-2019, 07:29 AM   #48
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It's a 1/4 twist to connect with a locking ring, as are most of the detachable cords.
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Old 07-29-2019, 07:01 PM   #49
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Yeah, I'm glad we almost never camp with electric, but we have a week-long vacation coming up in august on an electric site, so would like to fix it before that. I'm pretty comfortable with electrical work in the house, but don't know too much about RVs. I'm going to see if my friend that is an electrician can look it over and help me out.

Thanks, everyone for their help.
IF THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE A 30A CIRCUIT, MAKE SURE YOUR ELECTRICIAN FRIEND UNDERSTANDS THAT A 30A CIRCUIT IN AN RV IS A 120 VAC CIRCUIT, NOT A 240 VAC CIRCUIT. Electricians who do house wiring assume a 30A circuit is 240 VAC, since electric dryers, stovetops, etc. are 240 VAC. A master electrician friend of mine made this mistake. Fortunately, it was caught before any major damage was done.
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Old 07-31-2019, 03:02 AM   #50
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nope, the only way it would plugin and not trip the campgrounds box (the second you turned their breaker back on) was if ALL of my breakers inside are turned off inside, so basically it ran nothing. If I turned the main break on, it tripped the box, if I turned any break on it tripped their box. Had to use my solar panels to keep the battery charged so the fridge could keep lighting to run on gas. 100 degrees it ran a lot. Also never turned on a single light to whole time so just the fridge was using the battery and the cord could power nothing.
There is more here than just a bad replacement cord that is likely too small. If you are tripping breaker every time is was also wired wrong. You need to rip out that yellow stuff and run a new 30A power cord all the way back to the junction box. Also you may want to do a full inspection of any other changes that may have been made. I would be very warry of any wiring the PO may have done since he obviously didn't have a clue.
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Old 07-31-2019, 03:38 AM   #51
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I wonder what the orginial posting guy did about his electrical problem?
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Old 08-12-2019, 11:56 AM   #52
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I wonder what the original posting guy did about his electrical problem?
FYI - I'm a girl But anyway...
Hi sorry everyone didn't get a chance to update before we went camping in the forest (with an electric site) for a week. Anyway, I wired a 30amp inlet in the day before we left. Since the Original wire to the breaker box was still there and long enough to reach the inlet, I wired that directly into the inlet. I found a round seal large enough to cover the opening for now, but will probably buy the board suggested above to put a sturdier cover over the old hole, but ran out of time before vacation. It did rain a lot with no leaks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And we attached this cord https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGr...bZKCxUWLOz1ik0
and bought the $5 adaptor if we need to ever hook it up to a regular outlet. Our electrician friend was out of town, so we just had to go with it. My hubby doesn't know anything electric, I've done a bunch of electrical work to my first home before I met my husband. Hubby brought extension cords to run to the inside of the camper, just in case it didn't work, but everything worked like a charm, no issues all week, and not breaker or fuse issues.

But thank you, everyone, for all your help and for making it possible for my family to have a successful camping trip.
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Old 08-12-2019, 01:09 PM   #53
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Thanks for posting back. We do love to hear the happy endings
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