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Old 01-14-2019, 06:07 PM   #21
jd800
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Bought tires from Discount Tire Direct online store, had them in about 2 days. Bought wheels and lugs from RCSPEC online got them very quickly. Took the wheels an tires to a local store that could mount the tires and balance them. I took the old ones off the trailer and put the new ones on. Make sure you torque the lug nuts to spec and recheck often, for safety.
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:09 PM   #22
sourdough
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Is this the kind of thing that most dealerships will do? Or do you typically have to go to an actual tire store/service center for this? Do most of those kind of places even do an install on a travel trailer?

Determine what you have; tire size, load range (take the max carrying weight x4), wheel capacity etc. Then find what your trailer specs are; gvw in particular. For me, I want at least max tire load x4 = max load carrying capability plus 10% over the gvw of the trailer. I do NOT believe in buying tires that will only support the weight of the trailer less the tongue weight - fool's play in my opinion.

I have had tire work/replacement done at my personal CW along with my local tire shop. You need to make sure they have plenty of room for you to bring the trailer in (and get it out) and that trailer tires are something they are familiar with and do all the time, IMO.
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:35 AM   #23
travelin texans
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Make sure you torque the lug nuts to spec and recheck often, for safety.
Joe
2018 Ram 1500 Hemi
2014 Passport 238ML
To do this properly you torque to specs when reinstalling then after towing a couple hundred miles let them cool down, retorque & done.
To retorque you should loosen the nuts slightly then torque. DO NOT just retorque every time you stop, especially if your rv has aluminum rims, you will end up crushing the rim with the nut or eventually break off the lug bolt.
Think about it, how often do you retorque all the lug nuts on your truck? Yea! Just like everyone else, the tire dealer does it when rotating or buying new tires & they're not touched til next rotation/replacement. So why do it everyday on your rv?
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:28 AM   #24
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To do this properly you torque to specs when reinstalling then after towing a couple hundred miles let them cool down, retorque & done.
To retorque you should loosen the nuts slightly then torque. DO NOT just retorque every time you stop, especially if your rv has aluminum rims, you will end up crushing the rim with the nut or eventually break off the lug bolt.
Think about it, how often do you retorque all the lug nuts on your truck? Yea! Just like everyone else, the tire dealer does it when rotating or buying new tires & they're not touched til next rotation/replacement. So why do it everyday on your rv?


If your lugs are properly torqued on the aluminum rims you are just checking them. You shouldnít loosen and then retorque. On steel rims the rim is often painted in the lug holes and as such it will take several times torquing it to remove the paint. Once that happens they often will only require a check and not need retorque. Just a check.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:50 AM   #25
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Wow you guys know way more about this stuff than I do. You've given me lots of questions to ask the dealer. Appreciate it.
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Old 01-15-2019, 12:25 PM   #26
travelin texans
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If your lugs are properly torqued on the aluminum rims you are just checking them. You shouldn’t loosen and then retorque. On steel rims the rim is often painted in the lug holes and as such it will take several times torquing it to remove the paint. Once that happens they often will only require a check and not need retorque. Just a check.
Ok! We'll have to agree to disagree.
When you put your torque wrench on a nut & turn it til it clicks you can/will turn that nut, may be ever so slight, but do that every time you stop, especially if they are hot, you will be doing more harm than good. Plus if you haven't torqued the paint off yet you may need your wrench calibrated, 100-140+ ft lbs should scratch the paint.
So I'll do it my way, you do it yours, we'll both be happy!
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Old 01-15-2019, 05:57 PM   #27
Tbos
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Ok! We'll have to agree to disagree.
When you put your torque wrench on a nut & turn it til it clicks you can/will turn that nut, may be ever so slight, but do that every time you stop, especially if they are hot, you will be doing more harm than good. Plus if you haven't torqued the paint off yet you may need your wrench calibrated, 100-140+ ft lbs should scratch the paint.
So I'll do it my way, you do it yours, we'll both be happy!


Iím good with agreeing to disagree. FYI on my aluminum wheels I only check them cold and once a trip.
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Old 01-16-2019, 09:22 AM   #28
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Seems as if I need to learn a whole lot more about tires.
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Old 02-04-2020, 07:01 AM   #29
levic900rr
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Did you buy it?

We just bought a 239ML... haven't picked it up yet but we were down to the Rockwood Mini Lite 2508 and the Grand Design you are looking at. We went back and fourth on all 3 units a lot and ended up with the Passport for a few reasons.

1) The kitchen counter space and storage is way better in the Passport
2) I like the outdoor kitchen set up on the Passport better. Its the only one that mounts the outdoor shower on the camp side, we use that for an outdoor sink for hand washing etc...
3) Seemed like the best bang for the buck. None of them "felt" nicer. The Rockwood MAYBE had a tiny bit more feel to it, but in the end functionality won out as the Rockwood kitchen storage and counter was horrible.

Anyway I think you'll probably be happy with either one, just wanted to give you our experience.
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Old 02-04-2020, 09:41 AM   #30
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We just bought a 239ML... haven't picked it up yet but we were down to the Rockwood Mini Lite 2508 and the Grand Design you are looking at. We went back and fourth on all 3 units a lot and ended up with the Passport for a few reasons.



1) The kitchen counter space and storage is way better in the Passport

2) I like the outdoor kitchen set up on the Passport better. Its the only one that mounts the outdoor shower on the camp side, we use that for an outdoor sink for hand washing etc...

3) Seemed like the best bang for the buck. None of them "felt" nicer. The Rockwood MAYBE had a tiny bit more feel to it, but in the end functionality won out as the Rockwood kitchen storage and counter was horrible.



Anyway I think you'll probably be happy with either one, just wanted to give you our experience.


Enjoy it. We had a 238 that was the predecessor of the 239 and loved it. Absolutely no issues with that unit.
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Old 03-22-2020, 07:10 AM   #31
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What did you decide on? I have the 238ml. I had a look at the GD, from what I see, the GD uses more premium looking materials the build is nice but itís lacking in space and storage. For example when the GD bed is down there is no room to walk around the bed. I can appreciate the fact the GD uses a better Ďfull mattress though.

Also the GD has less pantry storage than my 238ml. In my rig we are able to use one side of the double pantry for kitchen items and the other side for kidís clothes. GD only has a single pantry door.

All this may not really matter to you, depends on how you use your rig. The GD lack of storage wouldnít work for me since we do a lot of cross country trips. We need a place to pack clothes and food for weeks. I could go on with more differences but this post is long enough, just thought Iíd focus on those two comparisons for now.
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Old 03-22-2020, 11:44 AM   #32
Roose17
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We have a 2018 239ML. This is our third rig and the first from Keystone. First impressions from owning one: Great floor plan for a family of 4 or less. Bunks big enough for when kids grow into larger teens. Camp side dinette is great. Top bunk can be hard to get into without a ladder. On rainy days it can be tight quarters especially if your kids want to watch TV. Very hard to watch TV from dinette and impossible from the bunks. We find the whole family on the murphy bed but the AC will drown out your TV speakers. Wish there was a bit more storage since the pantry also is our linen closet. Not sure if they made any changes to the latest floor plan.

We have had two seasons under our belt and a trip to Florida and it tows great with our half-ton. Last season we changed out tires for Goodyear Endurace before taking a 2,000 mile trip. So far we are happy with the tires.

Now the bad: All units and manufacturers have little issues and bugs. Unfortunately Keystone in 2018 was more interested in pumping out light weight trailers for SUV buyers than concentrating on structural quality. To cut weight they use a sandwich floor with is mostly cardboard, thin wood, Styrofoam and DARCOR. This past fall we started noticing large bubbles in the linoleum floor. Our dealer cut back the floor near our entry door, in the outdoor kitchen, under the bunks, and inside our front storage compartments. As with several 2018 Keystone ultra light owners we have extensive water damage. No leaks from the roof, nor windows, and exterior seals were inspected and touched up every six months. Many will agree there was a manufacturing issue that is causing water to penetrate from below. Our unit is rotting from all four corners. Could be the DARCOR or the lack of sealant where the floor meets the frame.

Do not let our experience sway you in either direction. Keystone may have made improvements since 2018. However do extensive research on structural build quality and read the warranty details for any manufacturer. That is what we will be doing if we ever get a forth rig. Our dealer is currently engaged with Keystone concerning our unit because the cost to fix maybe extensive. We love our 239ML so we are quite disappointed we are in this situation. Hoping Keystone learned their lesson because this model is perfect for small families with half tons and larger SUVs.


Happy hunting.
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