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Old 05-06-2018, 12:51 PM   #21
Frank G
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Nope, not for the control board. Here is a wiring diagram...Look at the relay

https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...x=0&ajaxhist=0

Located in the 110 junction box. I'm leaning towards that.
When the remote operating switches are installed by the factory for a Suburban WH, are both switches Gas and Electric 12Vdc? and then is an additional relay installed at the WH? and is this the box hanging off the side in post #14?

The schematic for the SW models does not show a relay.

Just curious before I tear mine apart, I need to know!
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:44 PM   #22
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The box “hanging” off to the side is the control board in its container. Normally it’s doublesided taped to the styrofoam or tie strapped. The metal box is the junction box for the 110VAC.

I dont deal with these things everyday, so I would have to look at yours to give you a correct answer. You should be able to google your specific model for the schematic.
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:01 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
The box “hanging” off to the side is the control board in its container. Normally it’s doublesided taped to the styrofoam or tie strapped. The metal box is the junction box for the 110VAC.

I dont deal with these things everyday, so I would have to look at yours to give you a correct answer. You should be able to google your specific model for the schematic.
Thank You

Confused after poring over the manufactures literature provided by Keystone for my unit and doing a internet search for the SW6D (the OP's unit). I did a search for my unit (SW12DEL) and there it was the schematic with the remote controls and the onboard relay for the 110V heating coil. I believe he has a SW6DEL. I also took the internal controls off the wall in my unit and verified they were 12VDC. In the feed line there was a 5amp fuse buried in the wall behind the controls.

To the OP, It would appear you have a issue in the control box where the heater control relay is located or in the wire from the on/off switch to the control box. Again, hope this helps and... thanks Chuck for all your knowledgeable advice.
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:07 PM   #24
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Nope, not for the control board. Here is a wiring diagram...Look at the relay

https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...x=0&ajaxhist=0

Located in the 110 junction box. I'm leaning towards that.
Just so I got this correct.. even though I shut the main power breaker off to it.. the board will or does still have juice running to it ? That it would still cause the buss fuse to blow when I flip the switch for the electric side.. ?
Also does that board control both the gas side and the electric side??

Just trying to understand it’s purpose .. lol .. thanks again for your help.. really do appreciate it
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:27 PM   #25
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Thank You

Confused after poring over the manufactures literature provided by Keystone for my unit and doing a internet search for the SW6D (the OP's unit). I did a search for my unit (SW12DEL) and there it was the schematic with the remote controls and the onboard relay for the 110V heating coil. I believe he has a SW6DEL. I also took the internal controls off the wall in my unit and verified they were 12VDC. In the feed line there was a 5amp fuse buried in the wall behind the controls.

To the OP, It would appear you have a issue in the control box where the heater control relay is located or in the wire from the on/off switch to the control box. Again, hope this helps and... thanks Chuck for all your knowledgeable advice.
You had a 5 amp fuse in the wall ?? How far down the line?? I couldn’t find any thing on mine...
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:29 PM   #26
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Also to chuck... if I were to unplug that control box u think i might not blow the fuse then... just taking wild guesses lol
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:33 PM   #27
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Also to chuck... if I were to unplug that control box u think i might not blow the fuse then... just taking wild guesses lol
Ok never mind on that .. I just blew the fuse again with the board disconnected ...
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:47 PM   #28
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Have you opened up the junction box yet?
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:50 PM   #29
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No need to.. may have found the issue... a couple melted wires behind the unit .. I just pulled it ou some from the opening
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:52 PM   #30
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Bet that’s the problem. Good deal!!
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:06 PM   #31
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You had a 5 amp fuse in the wall ?? How far down the line?? I couldn’t find any thing on mine...
It was one of those inline fuse holders and one end was connected to the gas switch with a pigtail going to the electric switch.
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:09 PM   #32
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Hopefully I found the issue ...couple wires melted together when I pulled the unit out partially
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:10 PM   #33
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Ouch! I bet that’s the issue. Question is WHY?
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:11 PM   #34
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Long story short it was my fault .. had to replace the pressure relief valve cause it was leaking.. I put heat on it in hopes it would loosen up.. couldn’t get the old one to come out.. had to use a breaker bar and brute force to get it free
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:13 PM   #35
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Long story short it was my fault .. had to replace the pressure relief valve cause it was leaking.. I put heat on it in hopes it would loosen up.. couldn’t get the old one to come out.. had to use a breaker bar and brute force to get it free
Well at least you know what NOT to do anymore.
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:26 PM   #36
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To make a long story short the PR valve will drip when the water heater looses it's air space. They all do. Last week or so there was a thread dedicated to this issue...and how to prevent it. They also do go bad.
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:35 PM   #37
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Praise the lord hallelujah.. that was the issue!!! No longer blows fuses!!!!!
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:37 PM   #38
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For those following this thread, the number in the part number represents the gallon size of the WH, the DE represents the Gas/Electric heating ability and the L indicates it has the onboard relay for remote operation by 12 VDC controls and a new unit should be shipped with the remote control panel.

ie SW6DEL

No idea what the SW means.
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Old 05-06-2018, 04:39 PM   #39
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I suspect the “S” is for Suburban and the “W” is for water heater.
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Old 05-06-2018, 05:31 PM   #40
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To make a long story short the PR valve will drip when the water heater looses it's air space. They all do. Last week or so there was a thread dedicated to this issue...and how to prevent it. They also do go bad.
The couple I bought it from I don’t think they never replaced the rod in the bottom of the tank ... had a lot of sediment and I had flush it out a lot before it would stop coming out.. when I filled it I had the PR valve open to let the air escape.. when full I closed it like normal.. it had a fast leak to it at first so I kept wiggling it around but never could get it to fully stop.. I even waited a couple days before I decided to replace it ... hense .. gave me the issue I had this past weekend ��..

Tanks for everyone’s help on here very much appreciated!!! God bless all you...
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