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Old 05-02-2018, 06:12 AM   #81
Hodgy
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Before Christmas I bought a 40 watt portable solar panel that was on sale. Now that the snow has mostly melted around here I am playing with things on the TT.

Over the last few days I have had the solar panel hooked up to the battery to see how much I can get out of it. If it is just sitting in the ambient light when the sun is up, the voltmeter is reading at 13.1 volts. If I have it sitting in direct sunlight the voltmeter is reading 14.2 volts.

I thought that was pretty good for a small panel. Now there is no real draw coming from the TT so it is keeping the battery up.

I am going to light up the furnace and run it overnight and see if the battery will last. I know the furnace is a hog for power. I have a propane Buddy Heater that I plan to use rather than the furnace, when we require a bit of heat. What I noticed last winter when I was running the furnace is that the trailer holds the heat real well and the furnace was not cycling very much even in -15 F weather.

We are planning to go out to one of our local campgrounds next week to do a shakedown run on the trailer. I have switched all of the lights to LED so hopefully we can survive on the 40 watt panel. If not, will go to plan B, whatever that turns out to be.

.
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2016 Bullet 1800RB, UVW 3260, led by a 2005 Chev Silverado Z-71 1500, Crew Cab, 5.3L, 4WD, Tow & Off Road Package with 4.10 Rear Axle, GVR 7000 lbs, Front GWAR 3925 lbs & Rear GWAR 4000 lbs., Payload 1600 lbs., Hellwig 6012 Air Bags. 97' Honda Goldwing GL1500.
Home Base is the Alberta Foothills at 4300 ' ASL.
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Old 06-02-2018, 12:46 PM   #82
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Well stuff gets in the way of going camping, have not been out yet.

Yesterday I got the 20 pounders topped off and today I set out to put them back on the TT. Got all hooked up and put the cover over the tanks and noticed that the two tabs on the bottom were ripped out. So got two eye bolts and mounted them as a place to attach a couple of bungee cords to keep the cover in place. Photo below of that fix.




So when I crawl under the tongue to hook up the bungees this is what I see. The rubber hose from the regulator to the black pipe is hanging there only held up by one zap-strap. Lovely !




I grabbed two rubber cushioned mounting clips and mounted the hose in a proper manner.






Serious lack of thought and quality in construction of these things.


.
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2016 Bullet 1800RB, UVW 3260, led by a 2005 Chev Silverado Z-71 1500, Crew Cab, 5.3L, 4WD, Tow & Off Road Package with 4.10 Rear Axle, GVR 7000 lbs, Front GWAR 3925 lbs & Rear GWAR 4000 lbs., Payload 1600 lbs., Hellwig 6012 Air Bags. 97' Honda Goldwing GL1500.
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Old 06-02-2018, 02:24 PM   #83
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Good fixes Hodgy! There is an employer in Indiana that could use you.
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Old 06-05-2018, 06:15 AM   #84
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I bought Hellwig 6012 air bags back in the winter and yesterday I installed them on my 2005 Chev Silverado Z-71 1500.


I am towing a 2016 Bullet 1800RB with a murphy bed, UVW 3260. I went with a ultra lite account of the truck having a 5.3L and knowing how quickly you can add 1000 lbs or more to the TV and TT.

Most of our camping will be in the foothills and mountains to the West of us.

The free standing truck has a 20" squat at the rear bumper before installing the air bags.

Hellwig 6012 Air Bags are the only “no Drill” bags I could find for the 1500. There
are lots of them out there for the 2500 and 3500 trucks.

The reason I am installing the bags is the trailer has single axle and I do not want
to transfer a bunch of weight to it using the equalizer hitch.

The install took 5 hours, quite a bit of that time was cutting off the rusted bolts on the OEM
bump stops.

After install at 40 PSI the free standing squat was 23 1/2” and at 10 PSI the squat was 21 1/4”. I took it for a drive at 40 PSI and the ride was a little harder but not much. I left 10 PSI in the bags but have not taken it for a ride yet.




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2016 Bullet 1800RB, UVW 3260, led by a 2005 Chev Silverado Z-71 1500, Crew Cab, 5.3L, 4WD, Tow & Off Road Package with 4.10 Rear Axle, GVR 7000 lbs, Front GWAR 3925 lbs & Rear GWAR 4000 lbs., Payload 1600 lbs., Hellwig 6012 Air Bags. 97' Honda Goldwing GL1500.
Home Base is the Alberta Foothills at 4300 ' ASL.
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Old 06-11-2018, 02:04 PM   #85
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Adjusted the brakes on the TT today. Cheap bu***** could not even put rubber backing plate hole covers on. Pitiful !

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Home Base is the Alberta Foothills at 4300 ' ASL.
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:36 AM   #86
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So putting away supplies in the TT looking for space to store. Went under the bathroom sink and found this mess.








It is obvious the the supply pipe routing has nothing to do with giving the owner a quality space suitable for storage and has more to with how many man minutes it took to throw this "plumbing" together. These pipes are out in the middle of the cabinet in the way of using the space in a meaningful manner.

Another 5 minutes, 12" of Pex and a 90 degree fitting would make installing a shelf or two so much easier. Now, I have built two houses and done renos' on two others so fixing the plumbing is no big deal. It is just unnecessary to have to do it.

Again the quality on these TT's is abysmal. Ya I know, I would not pay the price they would require if the quality was added but this is ridiculous.

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2016 Bullet 1800RB, UVW 3260, led by a 2005 Chev Silverado Z-71 1500, Crew Cab, 5.3L, 4WD, Tow & Off Road Package with 4.10 Rear Axle, GVR 7000 lbs, Front GWAR 3925 lbs & Rear GWAR 4000 lbs., Payload 1600 lbs., Hellwig 6012 Air Bags. 97' Honda Goldwing GL1500.
Home Base is the Alberta Foothills at 4300 ' ASL.
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Old 06-18-2018, 08:55 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodgy View Post
..... Ya I know, I would not pay the price they would require if the quality was added but this is ridiculous. .
To an extent, I think everyone agrees with your assessment, me included. Just out of curiosity, how much more would you be willing to pay and what areas should the "improvements in quality" be directed??? Should the improvements be in safety (stronger tires/brakes/shocks) or in better installations (improved plumbing routing/more outlets/better components) or in "fit/finish" issues (neater miters/less staples/improved ducting installs), or in "attention to detail" (correctly identified tank valve handles/thicker owners manual with more detailed information about specific trailer brand-model/extensive QC before leaving the factory)....

What is an appropriate price increase and what should be included for that price? I'm curious about what members would think is important, how varied those areas are and how much value is put in each of the areas.

So, let the games begin: What areas should Keystone focus on improving and how much would you pay for the improvements over the current cost of your RV?
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:19 AM   #88
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I'll jump in here. It is "camping" so I will go with safely getting to and from campgrounds. Would go an extra thousand bucks for better suspension, tires and brakes. The other borderline crap I can live with.
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:26 PM   #89
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Yesterday I was flushing the plumbing including the fresh water tank on my 2016 Bullet 1800RB. They have a useless stub out that is 5" below the tank. You have to crawl under the TT to unscrew the plastic cap to drain the freshwater tank.





So today I scrounged up some plumbing supplies I had kicking around and got rid of that mess on the bottom of the tank and installed a 3/4' ball valve that I can reach without crawling under the trailer. I am happy with the result.


I attached a 5" x 10" x 1 " board to the trailer rail using two carriage bolts.




The ball valve assembly is attached to the board with Tridon Clamps.




Shows the 3/4" PEX attached to the water tank.




Shows 90 degree " MIP by 3/4" PEX fitting screwed into the tank. This fitting only hangs down 1 ".




Shows male garden hose connection with brass safety cap screwed to it.



.
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2016 Bullet 1800RB, UVW 3260, led by a 2005 Chev Silverado Z-71 1500, Crew Cab, 5.3L, 4WD, Tow & Off Road Package with 4.10 Rear Axle, GVR 7000 lbs, Front GWAR 3925 lbs & Rear GWAR 4000 lbs., Payload 1600 lbs., Hellwig 6012 Air Bags. 97' Honda Goldwing GL1500.
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Old 06-27-2018, 05:14 AM   #90
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I noticed this before but this week while packing the TT it aggravated me again. The under seat storage has a piece of plywood with cross support. The lifting holes are drilled such that the cross support blocks one of them. Now this configuration does not stop you from sticking a finger in one of the holes and lifting the plywood off.

A little forethought and planning could have shifted the holes apart to bridge the cross support and allowed for the use of my opposable thumb.

Another case of Keystone not focusing on the end user. It is the drilling of two holes and they had to chose a position to put them. Takes no more time to do it right.








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2016 Bullet 1800RB, UVW 3260, led by a 2005 Chev Silverado Z-71 1500, Crew Cab, 5.3L, 4WD, Tow & Off Road Package with 4.10 Rear Axle, GVR 7000 lbs, Front GWAR 3925 lbs & Rear GWAR 4000 lbs., Payload 1600 lbs., Hellwig 6012 Air Bags. 97' Honda Goldwing GL1500.
Home Base is the Alberta Foothills at 4300 ' ASL.
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Old 06-27-2018, 05:54 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodgy View Post
.

I noticed this before but this week while packing the TT it aggravated me again. The under seat storage has a piece of plywood with cross support. The lifting holes are drilled such that the cross support blocks one of them. Now this configuration does not stop you from sticking a finger in one of the holes and lifting the plywood off.

A little forethought and planning could have shifted the holes apart to bridge the cross support and allowed for the use of my opposable thumb.

Another case of Keystone not focusing on the end user. It is the drilling of two holes and they had to chose a position to put them. Takes no more time to do it right.








.
I seriously doubt that they intended to drill two holes in that board. I would wager that the hole directly over the support piece was drilled first and then they realized that wouldn't work very well (give them credit for that) and drilled the second hole to correct the mistake. Why would they drill two holes (twice as much work) when one will do just fine?
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:00 AM   #92
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Well if they did not intend to drill two holes, they did it twice. The other seat board is just the same.

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Old 06-27-2018, 06:04 AM   #93
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OK. It was just a thought.
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:16 AM   #94
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OK. It was just a thought.

Thank you for the thought.


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Old 06-27-2018, 06:45 AM   #95
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I think they intended 2 holes & no one cares or even noticed when the next guy on the line, not looking/not caring, covered one of them. Most likely the same on every seat in that model rv.
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Old 06-30-2018, 07:51 PM   #96
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Quite often we have fire bans in July and August and camping without a fire is not really camping at all.

My propane camp fire will not fit in the front storage as the door is to small. It is 21" in diameter and will fit under one of the under seat storage bins. However there is a cross brace in the middle of the 28' x 21" space.

I removed the brace, installed another permanent one closer to the outside wall which gave me a 23" x 21" opening that will allow the camp fire to fit. I installed a removable brace in the centre of that opening and now the camp fire can be stored there.

Here is the video of what I did.


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Old 07-01-2018, 03:53 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodgy View Post
.

I noticed this before but this week while packing the TT it aggravated me again. The under seat storage has a piece of plywood with cross support. The lifting holes are drilled such that the cross support blocks one of them. Now this configuration does not stop you from sticking a finger in one of the holes and lifting the plywood off.

A little forethought and planning could have shifted the holes apart to bridge the cross support and allowed for the use of my opposable thumb.

Another case of Keystone not focusing on the end user. It is the drilling of two holes and they had to chose a position to put them. Takes no more time to do it right.








.
Well, let me tell you this. 4 years ago, I had never ever owned a camper in my life. But, since then, I've owned 5. My first was a 1996 Terry 24ft TT. I sold it and bought a Jayco Fifth Wheel which I loved until one day pulling it down the highway, the siding blew off! My insurance company totaled it. My 3rd, PrimeTime 32ft TT. First night out, storm came up, water ran from one end to the other. So, we took that back to the dealer who really surprised us by offering to give us back our money. Then, we bought a Forrest River 34ft TT. Loved it. It only had 2 large sides. Had it over a year until one day while being at our dealer, they offered me a very attractive deal on the 2017 OutBack 32ft TT with 3 slides and one is a nice bedroom side. OYeah Baby!

But, here's my point.
The last 3 TT's we owned, have all been new. Water leak,,,,MAJOR,,,,,,,on the Primetime. Although we loved our Forest River, I noticed cheap, substandard workmanship in several places on that thing. This Outback? Samething.

I truly believe that the days of quality workmanship in this country is gone. People dont care anymore. It's all about themselves now.
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Old 07-01-2018, 11:04 AM   #98
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So, we are stuffing the TT with stuff getting ready to go out this Thursday. This includes running the Dometic DM2652LBX fridge on
110 volts to test how it cools and freezes. It certainly cools but there is no way to tell how cool. I bought a fridge thermometer that
hangs on one of the racks. After two hours in there I discovered the the fridge was below freezing.






I look around the inside of the fridge for a dial to turn up the temperature. No dial. On the right hand side hooked to the fridge cooling
plates is a probe that fits inside a collar the slides up for cold and down for less cold. Another post on this forum identified this probe as
a “Thermister”.




As you can see from the photos I am ready to camp, Bud, Clamato and ice. The DW is still matching cutlery to dishes to get it perfect.




I thought no problem I will just slide it down and make the fridge less cold. Two hours later I went back and the temp shown on the
thermometer had not changed. I removed the slide off the cooling fin to see what was happening. The tolerance between the probe
and the sliding mount was not tight enough. When you slid the slide up or down it was only the slide moving. The probe stayed relatively
in the same position and so did the temperature.





I took some white teflon thread tape and did a few wraps around the probe and shoved it back into the slide. That fixed it, now when you
move the slide the probe moves also. Can now set the temperature where we want it.



.
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Old 07-07-2018, 07:28 PM   #99
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Had the TT out for a shake down run this week. Spent 3 nights at Little Elbow Campground in Kananaskis Country West of us. Everything went well but now I have a two page list of things to do or acquire.










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Old 08-04-2018, 03:35 PM   #100
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I am in the process of installing a 100 watt solar panel on the roof. I have the panel all set up with the mounting brackets and I replaced the 16 ga wire with 14 ga wire.

So I am checking out the routing for the wire from the panel to the charge controller. It will be coming down the fridge vent and then through the cupboards to the controller in the upper cabinet to the right of the sink.

I take off the simulated wood grill under the fridge to see where the wires will be going. In there was all types of rubbish. Sawdust, plywood cutouts, scraps of splintered wood, wire cut-offs, pex cut-offs, bits of paper, etc. etc. etc.

I cannot understand a company that does not take any pride in what they let out the door of their factory.

.
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Home Base is the Alberta Foothills at 4300 ' ASL.
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