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Old 11-04-2017, 02:46 PM   #1
Terrytnomad
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2nd AC on 316RL

We are buying a 2015 316RL and it says its pre wired for the second AC unit in the front bedroom. What does that mean? We haven't picked up the unit but I'm pretty sure it has 30 Amp shore power. How can it be pre wired if I have to run a 6g wire and change to a 50 amp breaker and power cord? When I looked on the site I saw a lot of how to advice but did not see one that was starting with a pre wired situation. Tell me I can just cut the hole and wire it up
Thanks
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Old 11-04-2017, 02:50 PM   #2
chuckster57
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Welcome to the forum

Every RV I have seen with 2nd AC prep is 50A service. There will be 110VAC wiring for the roof unit and 12VDC wiring for the thermostat. You will have the option of ducted or non ducted, just need to remove the “beauty ring” that’s on the inside of the vent and look to the sides for taped up ducting.

You simply remove the vent and place the AC unit over the hole...a little more involved but that’s the basics.
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Old 11-04-2017, 03:47 PM   #3
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The very first thing you need to do is to KNOW what kind of AC service you have. If you have 30A I wouldn't add a 2nd AC - JMO. You would have to rewire the trailer to run 2 and use other things.....or just a 2nd cord with 20A service pulled in someplace to run the 2nd AC. As Chuckster noted, I've not seen a 30A trailer "prepped and ready" for a 2nd AC.
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Old 11-04-2017, 04:08 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. I did find more information on the site. Will know for sure this Friday when I pick up unit. Thanks for the information
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Old 11-04-2017, 04:34 PM   #5
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Terry, I looked at three online and all three were 50 amp service with 2nd air prep. In Ocala? You'll need it. Bought our Raptor at CW in Ocala.
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Old 11-05-2017, 06:55 AM   #6
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If it is pre wired for second AC it has 50 Amp service. Adding the second AC is much easier and less expensive when pre-wired. Should run you somewhere around $800-900. If it wasn’t pre-wired, you can double that number.
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Old 11-19-2017, 01:15 PM   #7
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It is pre wired for AC with 50 Amp. Will be adding 2nd AC next spring. Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-19-2017, 01:22 PM   #8
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Now you just have to determine if the thermostat wiring is there for using a multi zone or separate thermostat, and if it’s ducted.

Advatage of ducted: you can run bedroom AC while in family room watching TV and the main AC when your in bed if the noise bothers you.
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Old 11-19-2017, 07:07 PM   #9
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Terry I to installed a 2nd unit to my unit and down here in the south we were very comfortable. I also agree with all the people here you can duct or non duct it. I did the non duct and spent around $800.00 and installed it myself with a little help of course.
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Old 11-20-2017, 04:09 AM   #10
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Since you haven't purchased yet, you might even consider a heat pump model for those chilly nites. I've not had one in an RV but love them for home use and thought I'd like at least one on my RV. I'm sure others will chime in on the good/bad of a heat pump model.
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Old 11-20-2017, 04:42 AM   #11
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Heat pump models are nice. They are basically running in “reverse”, but I wouldn’t count on it to heat a cold trailer..more of a maintain the warmth kind of thing.
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Old 11-20-2017, 04:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Heat pump models are nice. They are basically running in “reverse”, but I wouldn’t count on it to heat a cold trailer..more of a maintain the warmth kind of thing.
Yes, I realize that, but was thinking of just using one to take the chill off on a chilly evening, not using one to try and totally heat an RV.
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Old 11-20-2017, 05:00 AM   #13
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Just making sure the OP has the information.
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Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 11-20-2017, 05:50 AM   #14
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A few things to consider based on my DIY research and experiences last year:
- Low profile unit. There are a couple that are in the ~10 inch height vs what you have on the rear which may be as tall as 14". You do not want to exceed 13'5" overall trailer height.

- Btu output - 15K or 13.5K. Your new RV may not be ducted for two a/c units and may (probablyn ot) not have combined thermostat control capability on the wall. If the second a/c is only direct output in the bedroom, a 13.5 unit will do a good job there and since cold air 'falls' will also supplement the existing unit very nicely. The inside a/c control panel is different for a fully ducted unit vs a direct air a/c which has a built in 'stat.

- An add on heat coil is inexpensive and will keep the bedroom cozy on a cool morning but wont help the rest of the RV.

- Cost wise - our second a/d was purchased via AMAZON Prime with free shipping and no tax. I caught a super price just by luck as the price went waaaaay up ($299+) a few days later

- Most difficult part of the job for a DIYer is getting a cumbersome 100 pound palleted a/c on that pretty high roof. The high school football coach next door helped me. The entire job took about 4 hours with at least 1.5 hours used to remove the existing vent and sealant.

Good luck as this is one of the best mods you can do to your new RV to keep SWMBO happiest (right after a disc brake mod)
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