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Old 09-02-2017, 07:59 AM   #1
PhillyPhan
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Black Water Valve Replacement

I recently purchased a 2010 Keystone Cougar TT and it looks like the black water valve needs to be replaced. We flushed the grey and black water and after draining everything we drove home. I noticed later there was water still coming out of the flush cap (that's another issue, the cap is missing the gasket). I troubleshot the issue down to it coming from the black tank and the water valve not doing it's job. I ordered the replacement Valterra valve and started to remove the bad one, but can't get it out. Is there something I'm missing on the valve that's installed. Is the Valterra valve not a direct replacement?
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:38 AM   #2
SteveC7010
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Originally Posted by PhillyPhan View Post
I recently purchased a 2010 Keystone Cougar TT and it looks like the black water valve needs to be replaced. We flushed the grey and black water and after draining everything we drove home. I noticed later there was water still coming out of the flush cap (that's another issue, the cap is missing the gasket). I troubleshot the issue down to it coming from the black tank and the water valve not doing it's job. I ordered the replacement Valterra valve and started to remove the bad one, but can't get it out. Is there something I'm missing on the valve that's installed.
If I recall correctly, the actual valve assembly is thin, perhaps 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. It's removed by completely removing 4 four bolts and then it should just slide out. If things are really tight, you may have to try to spread the fittings on each side of the valve just a tiny bit (and I do mean TINY) to get the valve to slide out. Some water-soluble lube may help. There's a rubber seal on each side of the valve assembly. They come out easily after the valve is out. Your replacement valve should have come with new seals and new hardware. Are there instructions for all this with the new valve?

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Is the Valterra valve not a direct replacement?
Premature question until you've got the old valve out and can compare the two.

When I did this same job on my old trailer, the cleaning and preparation took a lot, lot longer than the actual disassembly and re-assembly.
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:48 PM   #3
chuckster57
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There are three different valves:
Valterra
Valterra BladeX
Bristol

BladeX will fit valterra, BladeX requires BladeX seals, Bristol requires Bristol.
Replacement seals don't come with instructions.

You want the valve closed when installing new seals. A dab of axle grease helps hold them in place. I have had to lay on my back and use both legs to push the pipe enough to get the valve out. It's easier to put the seals on the pipe first, and then after the valve is in, rotate it to make sure the seal isn't pinched. Then install 2 bolts, kitty corner snug and operate the valve once more to verify the seal isn't pinched. Then install the other bolts and tighten. Black valve uses 7/16 hex head bolt and nut.
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Old 09-02-2017, 04:02 PM   #4
PhillyPhan
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Thanks for the suggestions. The problem with what Keystone did was the sandwiched the gray and black valves between the tanks and there's no play to remove either valve. I found a video on youtube where someone ran into this exact problem and ended up having to cut some of the PVC on the grey side to give him room to get the valves out. I think I actually found his post in this forum as well. I think I'm just going to put everything back together and install the Valterra Twist on Waste Valve a neighbor mentioned. It will save me time in the long run.
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Old 09-02-2017, 04:13 PM   #5
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I had a similar issue and found some cooking oil in the black tank to "lube" the valve helped. I put it in and let it sit a while, then drained the oil from the tank by opening and closing the valve to work the oil into it. Made the valve operate much easier.
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Old 09-03-2017, 08:52 AM   #6
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I had a similar issue and found some cooking oil in the black tank to "lube" the valve helped. I put it in and let it sit a while, then drained the oil from the tank by opening and closing the valve to work the oil into it. Made the valve operate much easier.
The valve is opening and closing fine when pushing/pulling the handle. It just looks like the valve is leak by internally. Was this what you were seeing? If so, you just put cooking oil down the toilet and open/closed the valve a few times and it started sealing correctly again? Just want to make sure you had the same issue before I try it.
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Old 09-03-2017, 09:03 AM   #7
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Many times the leak is nothing more than solids caught in the blade channel, often cycling the valve while flushing the tank vigorously will fix the problem.

Javi
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Old 09-03-2017, 09:05 AM   #8
PhillyPhan
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Many times the leak is nothing more than solids caught in the blade channel, often cycling the valve while flushing the tank vigorously will fix the problem.

Javi
Yeah, I tried doing that this morning. Flush the system a bunch of times and cycled the valve over and over again thinking something might be stuck in there but it didn't get any better. Thanks for the help though.
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Old 09-03-2017, 09:43 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by PhillyPhan View Post
The valve is opening and closing fine when pushing/pulling the handle. It just looks like the valve is leak by internally. Was this what you were seeing? If so, you just put cooking oil down the toilet and open/closed the valve a few times and it started sealing correctly again? Just want to make sure you had the same issue before I try it.
My valve was difficult to pull out and push in. It wasn't closing completely. The cooking oil lubed it so that it was much easier to operate and close completely.

So, doesn't sound like the same issue, but you might try just in case yours isn't closing entirely. Much easier than replacing the valve.
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Old 09-03-2017, 09:49 AM   #10
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Yeah, I tried doing that this morning. Flush the system a bunch of times and cycled the valve over and over again thinking something might be stuck in there but it didn't get any better. Thanks for the help though.
One last thing that I would try before giving up... Put a valve on the outlet and then leaving the offending valve open... fill the tank with enough water to guarantee that the valve is covered with water and let it soak for a day or so... Then flush several times, working the valve repeatedly...
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:51 AM   #11
cpt_majestic
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Many times the leak is nothing more than solids caught in the blade channel, often cycling the valve while flushing the tank vigorously will fix the problem.

Javi
I had this same issues over summer, I was getting the tube of black pouring out on my feet and I read this comment and bingo, after about three times a wad of toilet paper the size of a golf ball came out, problem solved.
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Old 09-06-2017, 12:43 PM   #12
PhillyPhan
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I had this same issues over summer, I was getting the tube of black pouring out on my feet and I read this comment and bingo, after about three times a wad of toilet paper the size of a golf ball came out, problem solved.
I'll have to try that again then and see if it works. Thanks!
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