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Old 06-07-2017, 04:23 PM   #1
Steve079
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Roof mount Solar

When installing a roof mount system on a RV, do you try and secure the mount brackets into studs, or just thru the roof sheeting? The Renogy panels my son in law bought, came with some 2 1/2" wood screws, I'm thinking those are way too long if you arent hitting studs. Somewhere here, I think IO read they use particle board, but its more likely to be OSB or plywood, right?

Thanks for any help!
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Old 06-07-2017, 05:36 PM   #2
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Short wood screws work best. 1 1/2" is good enough. Get a tube of Dicor self leveling.

Set the panel where it's going to be. Put one screw in one bracket about 1/2 way in. Repeat for all brackets. Now starting at any bracket take out the screw and squeeze a good dose of Dicor over the hole and where the other screw will go. Now install both screws secure.

Repeat this process for each bracket. Once done go back with the Dicor and completely cover the brackets. This is how we do it and haven't had a single comeback for a leak.
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Old 06-07-2017, 06:38 PM   #3
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So. 1 1/2" screws, and any where on the roof?
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Old 06-07-2017, 06:47 PM   #4
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Yup! If the refer isn't on a slide, we love to run the leads from the panel down through that opening. We drill through the side of the vent base so we don't disturb the screen and then just seal it with silicone.
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:46 PM   #5
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Yup! If the refer isn't on a slide, we love to run the leads from the panel down through that opening. We drill through the side of the vent base so we don't disturb the screen and then just seal it with silicone.
Oh...that's money right there.

Thank You Sir!
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Old 06-13-2017, 06:49 PM   #6
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How about if the fridge is on a slide? Where is your next "go to" spot? This is my next project as well.
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:31 PM   #7
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Yup! If the refer isn't on a slide, we love to run the leads from the panel down through that opening. We drill through the side of the vent base so we don't disturb the screen and then just seal it with silicone.
After you run the leads down the refer vent, do you then drill a hole to get into the under belly to route the leads up to the battery compartment? That is where I plan to mount my controller.
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:46 PM   #8
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How about if the fridge is on a slide? Where is your next "go to" spot? This is my next project as well.
I recently had a solar panel installed on my Fuzion 342 which has the fridge in the slide. We ran the wires down one of the tank vents.
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Old 06-14-2017, 04:57 AM   #9
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I recently had a solar panel installed on my Fuzion 342 which has the fridge in the slide. We ran the wires down one of the tank vents.


That's one option if there is room. We try that first and if there isn't we use a plate designed for the roof and drill a hole from the inside after pulling a wall panel.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:29 AM   #10
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My fridge is in the slide. Can you elaborate a little more on the plate designed for the roof? Got a link to purchase it?

What about using a tank vent; how do you get the wires out of the vent pipe at the bottom? Not sure I understand this.

Thanks
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:54 AM   #11
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The vents just allow air to escape and enter the tanks when the water level changes so there is no liquid in the vents just air. We gained access to the tube in the basement well above the tank. Drilled a hole in it and fished the cables out with some wire. Then siliconed around the cables and then wrapped it all in duct tape to secure the cables in place.
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Old 06-19-2017, 05:19 PM   #12
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My fridge is in the slide. Can you elaborate a little more on the plate designed for the roof? Got a link to purchase it?

What about using a tank vent; how do you get the wires out of the vent pipe at the bottom? Not sure I understand this.

Thanks
Tried to get a pic of the plate posted, will do in the AM.
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Old 06-20-2017, 05:24 PM   #13
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This HOT weather is killing me.. my partner has a plate in his toolbox. Told him I needed a pic, and that's as far as it went. Give me one more day please
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:30 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Ruko View Post
The vents just allow air to escape and enter the tanks when the water level changes so there is no liquid in the vents just air. We gained access to the tube in the basement well above the tank. Drilled a hole in it and fished the cables out with some wire. Then siliconed around the cables and then wrapped it all in duct tape to secure the cables in place.
That is what I figured; thanks.
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:32 PM   #15
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This HOT weather is killing me.. my partner has a plate in his toolbox. Told him I needed a pic, and that's as far as it went. Give me one more day please
No rush! Thank you very much for helping out. If I was closer, I'd bring it to your shop for the install.
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Old 06-20-2017, 06:47 PM   #16
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You would be waiting 10 weeks if you made the appointment today.

I have been lucky a couple of times running the wires alongside the vents. I personally wouldn't recommend running any "electrical" wiring in any wet location, even if it's just a plumbing vent, it's still subject to condensation.
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Old 06-20-2017, 07:04 PM   #17
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If you have access to the roof (attic) where the TV antenna is mounted and where you want to run the solar charge wiring down to the controller, you can use the TV antenna mounting plate as an entry point. Then fish the wiring along the same path as the coax cable for the TV. Once inside a cabinet, it's just a matter of how to route it to the floor and a small hole into the underbelly.
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Old 06-21-2017, 10:06 AM   #18
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Here is the plate we use. Comes in 2-5 cable capacity. We order through NTP/STAG, about $5.00.
NTP doesn't sell to general public.

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Old 06-21-2017, 10:32 AM   #19
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Thanks. I guess you just cover the hole with this plate and then Dicor the whole thing.

If anyone else is looking, here they are on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Winegard-CE40...D2RDJ654PBY38D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H2NFR8...=20WCH34BQL5LH
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Old 06-21-2017, 10:40 AM   #20
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Here is another option that has to be glued down; no screw holes. I think I like the Winegard better.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KV1PFS0...=20WCH34BQL5LH
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