Originally Posted by lakechopaka
Thank you guys for your help. I was able to take the plate off and with some serious force of twisting to get the deadbolt back. Replaced with another lock. I don't think after one year of use my lock should not have worked. So I will be calling the manufacture to see what they say.
I got nowhere with the dealer nor Keystone with that argument, but for $25-$30 whatever it was, it was a race against time -- as in whether or not using up any more of my time was worth it, arguing. :-)
Originally Posted by hankaye
Did you try getting in through the Storage area and up through the Laundry
hatch??? Or send a 10 year old in if you don't fit or bend enough to do the unlocking for you ...
No laundry hatch in mine... (Never even seen one of those, actually.)
The pass through on the fiver is rearward of the forward closet where the "laundry" connections are, and no other openings in the bedroom floor or anywhere else to the pass through.
If you were to somehow take the rear wall of the pass through all the way out and crawl past the water heater and all the plumbing, you could see the kitchen and living area through the slotted stairs (heated underbelly I guess they call this, which is nothing more than using the stairs as an air return to the furnace), and you'd still have to destroy the stairs to get into the living area. :-)
Good idea for when one does have one, though.
There's "ways to get in" if you're willing to destroy stuff to get there, always, of course. But I think I'll stick to destroying the lock if I have to do that. Heh heh. Cheapest repair for least amount of destruction.
I just realized, probably no "laundry chute" in our model because it's pre-plumbed to have a washer/dryer in the master bedroom closet. Keystone figured you'd just be doing the laundry not storing it in the pass-through.
We don't use it and I have to remember to winterize those water connections in there every year, but it's nice to know they're there if we ever want to mess around with a washer/dryer in the unit.
Also after measuring real world pin weight, I'm not sure I would want that much weight that far forward anyway, without putting a whole lot of real heavy stuff all the way aft somehow to balance it out. A nice welded-on platform outside behind the act wall at the bumper for a generator and fuel for it would be perfect as a counter-balance for that heavy of a machine in the forward closet.
That reminds me... I need to talk to the welding guy... I meant to have him make that platform this year and integrate it into the rear bumper... and it won't be long before the property dries out enough to pull the trailer out of the yard where the spring mud sometimes keeps it there since I don't want to tear up the place just towing the trailer out to the driveway... ;-)