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Old 03-08-2016, 07:43 AM   #21
JRTJH
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Originally Posted by Mike484 View Post
I really dont understand your "up and down" movement being much of a problem. Isn't that what the stablizer jacks are for? How do you get enough up and down movement that is annoying when the stabilizer jacks are firmly installed? I do understand that putting jackstands in the middle will help, but is it enough to be worth worrying about?.

I'm assuming that when people claim the X-Chocks take out movement, that when the fore and aft movement is removed, they think movement has stopped. Which in most cases I would think is the most movement there is, followed by side X side, then up and down the least problematic.

I could be very wrong in my thinking, but, I see it as (%'s for example):
Fore and Aft movement -50%
Side By Side movement - 30%
Up and Down Movement - 20%

So, if you can remove fore and aft, you have vitually removed 50% of the movement, thus, making people believe that the X-Chocks eliminated movement.
A lot of the "satisfaction" or "frustration" with RV movement has to do with "where you're located" in the RV and "what you're doing". If you're sitting in a rocker in the rear "directly above the stabilizer jacks" you won't sense much movement with the stabilizers properly positioned. The same holds true for the kitchen being "over the stabilizers". But, if you're trying to boil a pot of water that's nearly full" over the axles and someone is walking "heavily" past the stove, you'll get a different sensation of "bounce" than the person sitting in the rocker 5 feet away from the stove.

Some floorplans place people (or equipment) at locations where the suspension movement is more noticeable than other floorplans. It depends on where you're sitting or what you're doing. In some floorplans X-Chocks will be "enough to be happy" and in other floorplans, they simply won't work well enough to justify their expense.

Really, if you consider how X-Chocks work (to stop tire rolling), you can do the same thing with conventional chocks by placing them in position behind the wheels, using the tow vehicle to "push back against the chock" and then placing a chock in front of the wheel. The trailer weight will essentially "lock" the tires preventing as much roll as the X-Chocks prevent.

X-Chocks do prevent some "tire roll", and that's a "good thing" if you're getting 'sea-sick" while the DW is walking around, but using "factory supplied stabilizer jacks and X-Chocks" won't stop as much movement as using "factory supplied stabilizer jacks and a steadyfast system"... then, adding jack stands to the frame at the axles will improve even that (for those who really want stability to the extreme) but even then, you'll get some movement when the kids jump off the bed.

ADDED: I think you're right, X-Chocks will remove some of the movement (possibly as much as 50%) and for many people, that's enough to satisfy them, for others, not so much...
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:31 AM   #22
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The other warning on X-Chocks was not to operate the jacks while they are installed. I can't find that warning now but if you follow the steps of installing them you see that you remove them prior to using any jacks to hook up your RV and you don't install them till you have the RV level. Here is the steps to install X-Chocks.

Also the X-Chocks says check them daily and here is the quote from the step instructions: Step 6: Each day re-check jack screws for tightness as jacks may settle into soft surfaces and become less stable. Tighten jack screws as needed.

http://norcoind.com/bal/howto.shtml
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:03 AM   #23
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ADDED: I think you're right, X-Chocks will remove some of the movement (possibly as much as 50%) and for many people, that's enough to satisfy them, for others, not so much...
Yea, I think that is the key as to what will work best, its all about what you are willing to live with. Anything from just the standard chocks and crank down stabilizers to jacking it up and placing it on cinder blocks.

My main reason for asking was that this past weekend was our first trip out, all we used was standard chocks and the crank down stabilizers, I am not willing to live with that much movement.

I appreciate all the input from this thread and from reading everyones reply, I am going to go with the OneStep chocks and one set of the BAL Lock-Arm stabilizing bars on the rear of the trailer. If that doesnt work for us, I'll add a second set of Lock-Arm bars to the front. I think this will get us to where we can be comfortable.
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:41 AM   #24
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Yea, I think that is the key as to what will work best, its all about what you are willing to live with. Anything from just the standard chocks and crank down stabilizers to jacking it up and placing it on cinder blocks.

My main reason for asking was that this past weekend was our first trip out, all we used was standard chocks and the crank down stabilizers, I am not willing to live with that much movement.

I appreciate all the input from this thread and from reading everyones reply, I am going to go with the OneStep chocks and one set of the BAL Lock-Arm stabilizing bars on the rear of the trailer. If that doesnt work for us, I'll add a second set of Lock-Arm bars to the front. I think this will get us to where we can be comfortable.
I think you are on the right track and please come back and tell us what you think of the OneStep. We are also leaving this weekend for 3 weeks and I will also review the OneStep but I do have 6 point leveling on this 5er so that makes a huge difference over rear stabilizing jacks.
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Old 03-08-2016, 12:16 PM   #25
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I don't get that the X chocks stop trailer frame movement. There is still a spring interface between the tires and the trailer frame, so how will the X chocks prevent any movement? Chocks are for preventing rolling movement, and now I hear X chocks can't be used for chocks. Frankly, this is a WTH moment for me.

When the OneStep chocks are adjusted and applied properly, there is no rolling movement, period. They work great (as chocks), in my experience.

You want to stop trailer frame movement on the springs? Use SteadyFast Stabilizers.
+1

I have the onestep chocks and the steadyfast stabilizers and each works very well for the intended purpose.

The amount of movement removed by the steadyfast stabilizers is amazing, the DW was duly impressed.

The only issue I have had with the onestep chocks is sometimes one of them will be harder to engage (depending on how the axles end up after backing in) and I just use a 2x4 to improve my leverage.

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Old 03-08-2016, 12:20 PM   #26
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Since you use the SteadyFast, does this look like a viable option? I ordered a set of these to try out since they are so much cheaper than the SteadyFast, just hope I can get similar results. I can put a set on all four corners compared to the cost of two corners with the SteadyFast.

http://norcoind.com/bal/products/con.../lockarm.shtml
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Old 03-08-2016, 12:39 PM   #27
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Since you use the SteadyFast, does this look like a viable option? I ordered a set of these to try out since they are so much cheaper than the SteadyFast, just hope I can get similar results. I can put a set on all four corners compared to the cost of two corners with the SteadyFast.

http://norcoind.com/bal/products/con.../lockarm.shtml
I have a fifth wheel, so there is some slight difference in stabilizing the front of it vs a travel trailer. On my fifth wheel, I have 3 sets of BAL locking arm stabilizers. Two sets on the front landing gear and one set on the rear stabilizers. The 3 sets "mirror" the steadyfast system. So, to be "comparable to" the steadyfast system, you'd need to order 3 sets of BAL locking arm stabilizers. The steadyfast costs about $279 and the BAL LA's are $80 for each set ($240 for three sets), so the price of the BAL system really isn't "significantly different" than the steadyfast system.

I'm very well satisfied with the BAL locking arm system installed as the company suggests: 2 sets on front and 1 set on the rear.

If I had to "do it all over again", I'd probably order the steadyfast system. It seems to be more "user friendly" with the handles to tighten the arms. The BAL locking arm system uses 3/4" nuts, so you need a wrench to tighten them and loosen them. It just seems easier to just have the handles. I'll probably weld a steel rod on the top of each nut on my BAL system so I don't have to pack a wrench with me during setup.
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Old 03-08-2016, 12:47 PM   #28
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The manual that came with my X-Chocks warned about using them as chocks and that they were not to be used to replace for chocks by in addition to. Have they change this? I have put X-Chalks in and couple hours later when the tires cooled down they were lose...

To clarify; I use chocks with the Xchocks. I just don't spend as much time trying to make sure the chocks are tight tight under the tires. I do check the X chocks regularly to tighten them if required.

This combination does not remove all of the movement, or even the majority of the movement since there are many factors at play as has been mentioned. It does give a good enough reduction for us since we there are just two of us and we aren't in it most of the day. I think a person has to go with one of the more elaborate systems to greatly reduce movement in the trailer. That's one of the things I'm hoping a 6 point leveling system will fix if/when DW gives the green to purchase a 5th wheel light
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Old 03-08-2016, 01:00 PM   #29
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Yea, I saw the 3/4" bolt for tightening, but just thought I would do as you suggest, add something so I can hand tighten.
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Old 03-08-2016, 01:19 PM   #30
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Yea, I saw the 3/4" bolt for tightening, but just thought I would do as you suggest, add something so I can hand tighten.
Try one set of BAL LA's, if it helps, but not quite enough, add a second set (or more if you think you need them). Who knows, one set may satisfy you enough that you're happy with the results. That's the "nice thing" about BAL, you can order it in "pieces" rather than paying for the "whole enchilada" whether you need all of it or not......

Good luck and keep us informed on how it goes.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:18 AM   #31
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We have x-chocks and I can testify that they don't remove movement 100%. A friend has them as well, and his is much more steady. The difference is our "box" seems to sit up higher than his by design, and we have spread axles where he doesn't. I think it all plays a part.

I will also say that I typically give everything a little more tightening a few hours after we get all set up because stuff changes. My only negative experience with the x-chocks was one where the ground was pretty wet and we must have sunk in after awhile. We were there for about 4 days or so, and when I went to leave, I had a real problem getting one of the x-chocks off. Typically I can loosen them to the point where I slide them out, then collapse them the rest of the way. This time I had to collapse one all the way just to get it out.

I also use them in conjunction with my regular chocks. I have the regular ones there..I might as well use them. Takes all of an extra minute or so.
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:20 AM   #32
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:55 AM   #33
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X chocks helped stabilize my 238ML. It made it livable without buying an expensive stabilizing system. I've been in sites where one side is up on enough blocks that I don't think one step would work at all. My 2810's axles are too far apart to use my current x-chocks. However, the larger TT seems more stable to start.
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:42 AM   #34
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X chocks helped stabilize my 238ML. It made it livable without buying an expensive stabilizing system. I've been in sites where one side is up on enough blocks that I don't think one step would work at all. My 2810's axles are too far apart to use my current x-chocks. However, the larger TT seems more stable to start.
If blocks are needed for leveling on one side, use the OneStep on the other side.

The stabilization, in my experience, is needed on the sprung weight of the trailer (both laterally and vertically), not the unsprung weight. The "labor intensive" X-Chocks, which only control longitudinal movement of the tires, are ineffective for that task, as are the much easier to apply and remove OneStep chocks.
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Old 03-10-2016, 03:56 PM   #35
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Since you use the SteadyFast, does this look like a viable option? I ordered a set of these to try out since they are so much cheaper than the SteadyFast, just hope I can get similar results. I can put a set on all four corners compared to the cost of two corners with the SteadyFast.

http://norcoind.com/bal/products/con.../lockarm.shtml
Those do not look nearly as "substantial" as the the SteadyFast arms and Feet.



The kit also comes with the drill bit required to drill the holes in the frame for the self-tapping screws.

There is nothing to add or remove and no tools are required to deploy or stow it.

I am very happy with the system.

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Old 03-10-2016, 04:52 PM   #36
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I thought the same thing, but, we have a Passport, light weight, and for $54 I was able to buy one. I will try it, if we like it, I'll order more, if not, I'll spring the $250 and get the SteadyFast system.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:49 PM   #37
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The x-chock helped stop some of the front to back movement we had on our 25' Passport 238ML. I bought them on sale and was very satisfied. They didn't stop it all but it certainly slowed down the front to back rocking.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:55 PM   #38
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I am thinking about adding these once we see how stable our new camper is next week when it comes in. Thanks for all insights into the issue.

I use my electric drill with a socket on it to lower and raise my stabilizer jacks. No crank handle for this guy. I would use that for the lock nut on the BAL LA. This seems like a no brainier: easy to install, easy to deploy, increases stability, and has a good price point. I saw them on Amazon for $71/kit.

I could live with that!

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Old 03-10-2016, 07:59 PM   #39
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I am thinking about adding these once we see how stable our new camper is next week when it comes in. Thanks for all insights into the issue.

I use my electric drill with a socket on it to lower and raise my stabilizer jacks. No crank handle for this guy. I would use that for the lock nut on the BAL LA. This seems like a no brainier: easy to install, easy to deploy, increases stability, and has a good price point. I saw them on Amazon for $71/kit.

I could live with that!

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I use my cordless drill to put my jacks up and down too. I did not have enough clearance to use it the X-chocks. Once you get them close you don't have to totally close them each time. The wrenches that come with them are ratcheting. That helps too.
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:00 PM   #40
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Bought the one step chocks because they seem to be easier to use than the X-Chocks and from what I have been hearing, the Chocks will only help with fore and aft movement, IF installed properly. I will try them in two weeks when we begin our trip (taking a 10-11 day trip to Florida with many stops along the way).

Also bought one set of the BAL Lock-Arm stabilizers. I put both arms on the rear in the side to side position (as opposed to one side by side and one fore and aft). I lowered the stabilizing jacks and with the arms unlocked, I could easily rock the trailer with just one hand. Then I locked the bars and tried to rock the trailer, pushed with both arms and leaned against it, I couldn't see hardly any movement. I will take pictures later (left before I thought of it) and post.

I'll give a full report when we make our trip but so far, for $75 a set and about 30 minutes time to install, I don't know why everyone isn't putting a set of stabilizer bars on their rig.

I chose the BAL stabilizers just because of the cost, you can buy one set of two bars for about $75 then add more later if you want. The SteadyFast and the Lippert appear to be more expensive at about $250, but they are both a set of 3, 6 bars each, so the cost is actually about the same. It's all about what you prefer, but they all do the same thing. I would highly recommend useing stabilizer bars as they WILL stabilize your rig.
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