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Old 10-20-2015, 10:48 AM   #1
JNKS2010
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First time winterizing l

So, trying to save a few bucks by doing the winterizing of our brand new Bullett
243BHS. I did the antifreeze thing through all the water lines. Tires and rims look great. Anything else we are missing? We had zero leaks from water, we had an a/c issue that has been fixed "hopefully", doing a thorough black tank flush "see our other post".

Do we need to buy a giant trailer cover? Will ther be any damage if don't cover it? How about the rims and tires, do use wheel covers? Does it matter? Propane tanks have been stored inside. Battery has been stored in the house. Anything that has to turn like locks has been lubed with WD40. Anything else?
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:20 PM   #2
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JNKS, I probably don't have anything to add other than asking about your propane tanks and battery. Generally propane tanks are not stored inside an enclosure like a small barn or a garage. They will be safely stored in your unit's tank enclosure, turned to the "off" position. Your batteries should be stored in a relatively warm area, not in the house. A trickle charger attached and you checking the water level every two or three weeks will insure good batteries in the spring. Let's pick a corner of the garage or the tool shed, not the house.
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:35 PM   #3
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[QUOTE=JNKS2010;187344]
243BHS. I did the antifreeze thing through all the water lines.

Do we need to buy a giant trailer cover? Will ther be any damage if don't cover it? How about the rims and tires, do use wheel covers? Does it matter? Propane tanks have been stored inside. Battery has been stored in the house.
QUOTE]

I assume you have drained the HW tank and have also winterized your black tank flush lines, outside shower and city water connection when you "did the antifreeze thing".

Most folks would not recommend a cover for your trailer but putting tire covers on is not a bad idea.

As already suggested, store your propane tanks and batteries elsewhere - not in the house. If you keep your batteries charged and water level up, they won't freeze.
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
JNKS, I probably don't have anything to add other than asking about your propane tanks and battery. Generally propane tanks are not stored inside an enclosure like a small barn or a garage. They will be safely stored in your unit's tank enclosure, turned to the "off" position. Your batteries should be stored in a relatively warm area, not in the house. A trickle charger attached and you checking the water level every two or three weeks will insure good batteries in the spring. Let's pick a corner of the garage or the tool shed, not the house.
Propa e tanks are in a garage that is not insulated. Once the snow hits it gets pretty dang cold. Battery on a trickle charge in the basement of the house is not a good idea? What are the risks with that?
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Old 10-20-2015, 01:33 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=Festus2;187350]
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNKS2010 View Post
243BHS. I did the antifreeze thing through all the water lines.

Do we need to buy a giant trailer cover? Will ther be any damage if don't cover it? How about the rims and tires, do use wheel covers? Does it matter? Propane tanks have been stored inside. Battery has been stored in the house.
QUOTE]

I assume you have drained the HW tank and have also winterized your black tank flush lines, outside shower and city water connection when you "did the antifreeze thing".

Most folks would not recommend a cover for your trailer but putting tire covers on is not a bad idea.

As already suggested, store your propane tanks and batteries elsewhere - not in the house. If you keep your batteries charged and water level up, they won't freeze.

I have done all of the above. I have discovered the pyramid of poo as its so called in my black tank. Doing a quick overnight at a local camp ground so I can use their dump station to remedy that issue this weekend.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:26 PM   #6
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Antifreeze in all the traps too. I put a little in the both tanks (grey/black) to keep the tank valve seals from drying out.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Antifreeze in all the traps too. I put a little in the both tanks (grey/black) to keep the tank valve seals from drying out.
good idea, thanks!
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by SLIMSHADIE View Post
Antifreeze in all the traps too. I put a little in the both tanks (grey/black) to keep the tank valve seals from drying out.
Yes thank you for this tidbit. I never thought of that.
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:18 PM   #9
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Yes thank you for this tidbit. I never thought of that.
There is a "sticky" located here that details all the specific steps to properly winterize and protect your investment: http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=20540
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:59 PM   #10
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I kept my previous TT covered for 5 years over the winter, the only thing I ever noticed was that it was as clean when I removed the cover as it was when I put it on, I ordered one for my Cougar from Amazon so if I find it too difficult to get on with my non-walk on roof I can send it back.

Perhaps in high wind areas it's an issue but I've never found it detrimental to my TT.
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:09 AM   #11
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JNKS, in regard to your keeping the battery in the basement, over-charging a lead acid battery can produce hydrogen-sulfide. The gas is colorless, very poisonous, flammable and has the odor of rotten eggs. A trickle charger should not be a problem. My only advice would be to make sure I could smell nothing with it in the basement and that the area is well ventilated. However, I'm still not quite sure why you removed the propane tanks from your RV.
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Old 10-21-2015, 04:44 AM   #12
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I leave my tanks on in the winter (on the trailer, not turned on lol), and I leave the battery in the garage on the battery tender. We hit some pretty low temps last year, and both were fine.

As for adding some antifreeze to the traps, I always do as a last step, however I kinda had a revelation yesterday about this. When doing the antifreeze portion, wouldn't the traps get filled with it anyways? As well as the gray tank, and the black...assuming you flush the toilet a bit to let some run in there?

Admittedly I probably go overboard in running the pink through all the lines, so if you err on the light side of this, adding to the traps might be more necessary.
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Old 10-21-2015, 04:58 AM   #13
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JNKS, in regard to your keeping the battery in the basement, over-charging a lead acid battery can produce hydrogen-sulfide. The gas is colorless, very poisonous, flammable and has the odor of rotten eggs. A trickle charger should not be a problem. My only advice would be to make sure I could smell nothing with it in the basement and that the area is well ventilated. However, I'm still not quite sure why you removed the propane tanks from your RV.
Extremely valuable information that I didn't think of. Thank you so much.
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Old 10-21-2015, 08:39 PM   #14
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Use a battery tender, not a charger, and don't worry about it. Just attach the battery first, plug in the tender and walk away. I've used one for up to two years continuously on a sealed Optima battery in another state and never had a problem. Believe it or not, the battery has been in the pickup since winter 1998.

http://www.batterytender.com/Chargers/

Shop around and try www.smile.amazon.com.
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Old 10-23-2015, 12:28 PM   #15
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I need to get mine ready to winterize here soon. Three more trips planned and then she goes up for the winter


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Old 10-23-2015, 12:41 PM   #16
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As for adding some antifreeze to the traps, I always do as a last step, however I kinda had a revelation yesterday about this. When doing the antifreeze portion, wouldn't the traps get filled with it anyways? As well as the gray tank, and the black...assuming you flush the toilet a bit to let some run in there?
I think the comment is more for those who blow out their lines. I've never bothered to put more in the traps after running it through the lines.
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Old 10-23-2015, 08:12 PM   #17
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I think the comment is more for those who blow out their lines. I've never bothered to put more in the traps after running it through the lines.
When I first started winterizing, I got advice from a house boat guy. He would start pumping antifreeze thru and turning on the closiest faucet, then off and to the next faucet, all going into a bucket. Then he would go back to the first faucet and repeat till the last. No antifreeze made it into the traps. You never know what people are doing?
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Old 10-25-2015, 09:47 AM   #18
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Camper winterizing is complete except for removing the batteries and covering the plug. Might also add some rope in the unused eyelets. Had to close the kitchen slide while holding the fridge door open because there wasn't enough room to open it once the slide was retracted. Also installed the new check valve that B&B sent me before closing it up.

This is the only place I have to store the camper over the winter and it can get pretty well covered and dirty with tree debris if not covered. I snow blow around it so that I can get access if necessary. haven't yet decided if I'm going to put the wheel covers on.

My Cougar 26RBI needed a cover which was 28.5' long and that just barely got over the front cap.


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Old 10-26-2015, 06:06 AM   #19
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I bought a 30x50 tarp (9mil) from Harbor Freight, for $120, and completely covered my '15 Keystone Sprinter 302RLS. However, I used tie downs UNDER the trailer, to keep an airflow through the winter.... all buttoned up. Yes, I do have a walk on roof, which is why I could do this. First winter trying this approach, so we will see how things turn out next Spring. The tarp was large enough that I was also able to cover the outside of all wheels/tires too.
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:55 PM   #20
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We are in Minnesota and have an unattached garage that is not insulated. Will the batteries be OK in that environment? I'm presuming for safety's sake the battery should be on a charger that is not in the house, including basement. Is this accurate?

I've left the propane tanks covered and on the trailer.
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